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Posted: 12/14/2011 7:42:59 AM EDT
Hi guys,

I have been doing my reading online and considering getting started reloading 9mm and .223.  May start with .223 first just to load some up, then reload it after I shoot it.  Anyway, here are a few questions I have yet remaining.

1)  Does once-fired brass usually need trimmed after just the first firing?  Should I ask the vendor to measure it?  My thinking was that if it does not need trimmed, I could load it on a cheap press like the Lee 1000, and then later get a progressive Dillon and add the Dillon 1200 case trimmer.  Trimming cases one at a time manually looks like the most time-consuming part of the process.

2)  Is brass with "crimped primers" a problem?  Will I have to reload it any differently?  The same brass has ejector dings but i was told this isn't an issue.

3)  If I want the ammo to last for decades if unshot, do I need to seal the primer pockets or anything?  I see some ammo with some sort of sealant around the primer.

4)  As far as M855 bullets, I assume I should use "pulled" bullets to save money over buying new.  Why were they pulled?  And does being "machine pulled & resized" matter, or should I get the "collet pulled, no marks" bullets?  Costs are 6.8 vs 8.3 cents each.  And I don't think these have green tips.  Still go with it?  Or use some other?

5)  Are CCI primers ok?  I can get them for about 3.5 cents with Hazmat included.

6)  Should I look at cheap surplus military powder, or commercial powder?

Thanks a lot!
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 8:22:33 AM EDT
[#1]
Welcome to the wonderful world of reloading. You'll end up loving it or hating it because there are very few definite answers.

The first question is, are you loading for plinking or accuracy?

1 - I've never trimmed 9mm or other straight neck cases. The 223 plinkers length should be ok, just double check before you load it. For 223 accuracy, I always trim each time.

2 - The 223 brass with the NATO headstamp (circle with a cross in it) should have the crimp removed before you try and put in a new primer. There are several methods to remove it. Minor dings aren't an issue unless they have stressed the metal. Look closely to see if there is a fatigue line inside the ding.

3- You don't need to go through the extra step of sealing the primers. I store ammo in plastic ammo boxes (cool and dry place) with a desicant packet in it. It should last the rest of your lifetime.

4- When the military sells surplus ammo, they have to "demilitarize" it into it's components (stupid liberal law).

For basic plinking, either pulled method is ok. Since you're just getting started and already blowing a wad of money on gear, I'd go with whatever is cheaper for now. Just keep your batches small (200 rnds) since you'll be changing your methods a lot and take notes on each batch. As you get better at reloading you can use better components. If you get into accuracy shooting, you'll spend more time/money on components.

I don't think any 9mm ammo is crimped.

5- CCI primers are my favorite for accuracy shooting. For general plinking, I use whatever is handy or cheapest.

6- For starting out with accuracy, I would recommend experimenting with several types/brands of commercial powder (1lb jugs). Find the one you like and eventually buy an #8 jug. I prefer Varget. The surplus is cheaper, but only good for plinking.


Just be sure to start on the low side of the charges and work your way up to what "feels right". There's a lot of experimenting for beginners so, don't rush the learning curve.

Have fun!!!
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 8:33:15 AM EDT
[#2]
1. Once fired .223 brass should be ok as long as it is below 1.76 overall, really no need to trim pistol brass. I would buy a caliper that is accurate to the thousandths (0.000) and check a good sample of the brass once you get it. With that said a nice manual trimmer is almost a must, especially if you are just starting out, get the RCBS kit and you will be able to trim almost all common calibers (usually $75-100 shipped) I would also get the power adapter so you can spin it with a drill (maybe $6). Then get a carbide chamfer tool.

2. Brass with are sized and deprimed just like normal. The extra work comes from removing the crimp ring before re-priming. This can be be don with the chamfer tool listed above, a swager die set, or a specialty piece like the dllion super swage.

3. Can't help you here, I shoot my ammo  long before that.

4.I'm assuming if you are buying pulled ammo it is just for plinking, pulled is pulled get what ever is cheaper, the pull marks don't affect accuracy to a noticeable point at least out to 100 yards. Green tip is just identifying paint for the military, when the pull the bullets, they clean them and it comes off, it is nothing but cosmetic.

5. CCI primers work fine work up a load, I personally prefer Federal or Winchester, its all about preference

6. If you are just starting to reload, buy commercial powder, easier to get, easier to find loads. I personally like hogdon powder because their free online loading guide is pretty good.


********Finally make sure you BUY an actual reloading MANUAL, READ the section about learning to reload and go from there. Hornady 8th ed. would be a good one.*******
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 8:35:05 AM EDT
[#3]
+1 for Varget
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 8:37:35 AM EDT
[#4]
Willstill,

thanks for all the great info.

I am primarily reloading for plinking / to have on hand for a "shtf" scenario or disaster.  So "good" accuracy out to 200 yards is probably all I need.  Not going to be competitive shooting, at least with this cheap ammo.  As long as my reload is similar in accuracy to manufactured M855, it'll be good enough!

1) I read that you have to trim rifle cases every 1-3 shots to keep them from sticking into the barrel and jamming.  If I can get away with not trimming the cases for now that would be great.  By the time I shoot a bunch of the stuff I'll probably be able to purchase a fast trimmer.

2) The site says they are "mixed headstamps" so I assume it's not all NATO, but it says it does have crimped primers.  Looks like you can get a die to de-crimp on the press.  But I won't have enough stations, so I will need to set the press up to decrimp, then run all the cases a 2nd time to actually load, right?

3) good to know, thanks.

4 Oh, that makes sense. (well not the goofy law, but you know what I mean.)  I'll go with the pulled with marks as long as accuracy will be OK, since it's $15 cheaper per 1k.  Should I be alarmed that these don't have green tips?  I realize they will shoot the same, but couldn't they be confused for M193 later?

5) ok, so any "small rifle" primer should be fine?  After I made this post, I realized that even within CCI, there are a variety of different "small primer" models.

6) Ok, I guess I'll buy some powder locally to avoid the Hazmat fee then.  If I bought 8lbs of surplus powder, they would pay the Hazmat fee.  

Just to make sure I understand your answers, what are you referring to as "plinking"?  close-up shots with less accuracy than manufactured m193/855?  Or usable accuracy to 200 yds?

Thanks!!

Edit:  Thanks Lamale too.  I think we were typing at the same time.  Now I have more stuff to read up on.... the depriming operation and all that.

P.S. I saw some places online say that you don't necessarily need to chamfer the brass depending on the angle of the cutter blades you use to trim with.  Is that the case?
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 8:44:45 AM EDT
[#5]
P.P.S.   Does M855 for 20 cents/rd seem decent?  That was about as low as I can find, which looks like about a 10 cent/rd savings.  But if it's going to affect accuracy over commercial M855 and take tons of time by the time I do all the operations, I may need to think about the trade-offs.

I do think it's kind of cool that you can load whatever you want.... like tracers; not that those are actually of any use.... but kind of cool perhaps.  

Thanks!
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 9:11:23 AM EDT
[#6]
A note on 9mm, I have come across a few 9mm cases with crimped primers.
They were NATO marked, don't remember the manufacture, I just trashed them.
9mm case are easy to come by.
Have fun
RJ
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 9:16:58 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
A note on 9mm, I have come across a few 9mm cases with crimped primers.
They were NATO marked, don't remember the manufacture, I just trashed them.
9mm case are easy to come by.
Have fun
RJ


I see 9mm once-fired for about 6 cents, which means with a 9 cent bullet, 3.5 cents for primer, and a couple cents for powder, I can load JHP for about the same as my 21 cent target FMJ.  So I get a bullet for the same $ plus some labor, but it's a HP.  Then again, the paper gets punched either way, but technically it's a better bullet

My main draws to reloading were that I could get a better 9mm for the same cost, and could get M855 for 2/3 the cost.  We'll see as I do more research if this continues to pan out.  
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 9:21:12 AM EDT
[#8]
Tagged as I too want to load my own M855, an later down the road 9mm or .40s&w.

Link Posted: 12/14/2011 9:30:52 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Tagged as I too want to load my own M855, an later down the road 9mm or .40s&w.


It looks like we can load the M855 with pulled bullets and once-fired cases for around $200 - $220 per thousand, whereas it's about $330 + shipping to buy, unless there are deals out there I am not aware of.   However, you have to reload quite a few cases to recoup all of the initial investment...

Do guys paint the bullets afterwards so as not to confuse them with 193, or just not worry about it, maybe just mark the packages?
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 9:53:23 AM EDT
[#10]
Ive just started reloading as well, so my "opinion" may not carry much weight but anyways...

for .223, I love Varget now.  when i started using it, it was REALLY picky on throw weight.  I finally found out it was my fault, and now its +/-0.1gr.  since 99% of my .223 is paper punching, i dont care.  reason i chose Varget vs ball is im in AZ and while 50* isnt cold.. im sure it has some effect.  and summers will hit 110+ easy.  so i wanted a powder i didnt have to change out with the seasons.   right now, .223 is worth reloading if u have the brass.    9mm, imo, even WITH the brass, and unless ur going for 100% match ammo ammo, its not worth it to reload.  u can pick up decent 115gr 9mm, 1000 rounds for $200 shipped.  BUT, if u hunt hard enough, u can reload it cheaper.

as far as your ?'s

1).  I trim my once fired, just incase. this way I know its correct.  OCD i guess.

2).  crimped primers means u need to ream the primer pocket out so normal primers will fit.  its not hard or a deal breaker.  just takes a few secs longer.

3).  i havent seen a need for seeled primers, but again, im in AZ.  its dry all year long here.  I have a camaro im restoring and the body is down to metal.  its been sitting, uncovered, for an easy 5 years.  not 1 bit of rush.  

4).  idk much about pulled.  i just buy cheap 55gr stuff.

5).  i have been using CCI for my .223, 9mm, .45 and .308.  no issues.

6).  i say get whats best for your location, and experiment to see what you gun likes.  ball meters better but stick (vargant) imo is a better way to go.
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 11:29:18 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:

1).  I trim my once fired, just incase. this way I know its correct.  OCD i guess.


How do you trim?  I've been looking online and have seen everything from hand-cranked trimmers that look like they take about 20 seconds a case, up to a Dillion 1200 mounted on a progressive press for about 2 seconds a case.  I think this still means each case has to go through the press twice, but it looks a lot better than hand trimming.  But that's a pretty hefty initial investment...

I think when I get a chance this evening I'll see if I can find out if the Dillion 1200 case trimmer fits on the Lee 1000 press.... it's a lot cheaper progressive press and if it would work, I wouldn't mind trimming 1k cases, then swapping tools and loading 1k.
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 11:34:46 AM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 12:33:09 PM EDT
[#13]
As far as not needing to chamfer, depends on the trimmer. My Gracey Trims, Chambfers, and deburs in one pass. A standard lathe style trimmer only trims...BUT you can buy a caliber specific head for the RCBS too that is a 3 way cutter and will trim chamfer and debur. They work well especially with the power adapter linkage. I had one for a couple months and it worked well, I traded the head off when I got my Gracey, for the simple reason I just didn't need it any more.  

As far as painting the tips... personal preference is that its a waste of time. Take a sharpie and mark the load on the bag or write the load data on a note card and then toss it in the bag/ammo can.

As far as the 55 grain stuff goes... it's getting harder to come by, as I think the military is really only using the 62 grain stuff these days. If you choose to go with Ramshot TAC or another Ramshot powder, I believe their free online manual lists the the Military 62 grainer in its recipes. TAC is a pretty good powder if you are going to use a powder thrower, it meters fairly consistent throw to throw. Varget on the other hand, even though it is a great powder I hand weigh every charge so the shape doesn't bother me, meters like crap threw a powder thrower.
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 12:47:39 PM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
Quoted:

1).  I trim my once fired, just incase. this way I know its correct.  OCD i guess.


How do you trim?  I've been looking online and have seen everything from hand-cranked trimmers that look like they take about 20 seconds a case, up to a Dillion 1200 mounted on a progressive press for about 2 seconds a case.  I think this still means each case has to go through the press twice, but it looks a lot better than hand trimming.  But that's a pretty hefty initial investment...

I think when I get a chance this evening I'll see if I can find out if the Dillion 1200 case trimmer fits on the Lee 1000 press.... it's a lot cheaper progressive press and if it would work, I wouldn't mind trimming 1k cases, then swapping tools and loading 1k.


I use the Lymann one.  I was gonna go electric, but the cost just wasnt there for me.  that and i figure im still young (30), i can deal with turning the handle.  

http://www.cabelas.com/tools-accessories-lyman-universal-case-trimmer-2.shtml

This case prep center though I am in love with.  saves ALOT of time.  my 1st one was a dud.  took it back, 2nd one has lasted 8000'ish rounds so far.

case prep center
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 2:57:46 PM EDT
[#15]
I found this video automatically trimming and reloading .223 using a hornady press, but is there any reason I couldn't do just the same with a Lee 1000?  Looks awesome!

http://youtu.be/wBQ_vJHiGek

If that'll work, I think I'll get a Lee 1000 and work on some of the learning curve with 9mm, then add the Dillon case trimmer and try some .223.

Thanks
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 3:37:40 PM EDT
[#16]

.

Link Posted: 12/14/2011 5:21:58 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:

.



??
Link Posted: 12/14/2011 8:39:19 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
Quoted:

1).  I trim my once fired, just incase. this way I know its correct.  OCD i guess.


How do you trim?  I've been looking online and have seen everything from hand-cranked trimmers that look like they take about 20 seconds a case, up to a Dillion 1200 mounted on a progressive press for about 2 seconds a case.  I think this still means each case has to go through the press twice, but it looks a lot better than hand trimming.  But that's a pretty hefty initial investment...

I think when I get a chance this evening I'll see if I can find out if the Dillion 1200 case trimmer fits on the Lee 1000 press.... it's a lot cheaper progressive press and if it would work, I wouldn't mind trimming 1k cases, then swapping tools and loading 1k.


lee trimmer and a cordless drill.
Link Posted: 12/15/2011 7:01:31 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
1)  Does once-fired brass usually need trimmed after just the first firing?  Should I ask the vendor to measure it?  My thinking was that if it does not need trimmed, I could load it on a cheap press like the Lee 1000, and then later get a progressive Dillon and add the Dillon 1200 case trimmer.  Trimming cases one at a time manually looks like the most time-consuming part of the process.
Thought I would add the "Why" to the answers, at least as much as I can.  Brass cases are made within a certain tolerance for OAL, to meet SAAMI specs (or NATO).  As you fire the brass and it expands to fit the chamber, then resize it to reload, the brass flows (slighlty) towards the neck.  This is what eventually leads to case head separation and case failure.  Trimming fixes two problems at the same time.  One: It ensures that the OAL of the case is less than 1.760 (to be within specs) Two: It makes the length of the neck the same on your resized rounds, which helps them have almost the same neck tension, which increases accuracy.  Most people that I have talked to or read on the forums trim their brass to 1.750 the first time, then don't trim again for the life of that case.  (Usually the case will separate or fail before the length gets to 1.760 again).  As far as "need" to trim, if you're under 1.760 and don't care about making uniform ammo for accuracy there is no need.
2)  Is brass with "crimped primers" a problem?  Will I have to reload it any differently?  The same brass has ejector dings but i was told this isn't an issue.
The primers are crimped in to meet military(NATO) specs.  You will need to either ream or swage out the crimp to properly seat the new primer when you reload.  If you don't, the primer won't seat or may be deformed, which can lead to accidents.
3)  If I want the ammo to last for decades if unshot, do I need to seal the primer pockets or anything?  I see some ammo with some sort of sealant around the primer.
You will see some "military" ammo that has a sealant on the primer pocket and also around the bullet.  This helps keep moisture out of the powder during harsh field conditions.  If you keep your rounds in an air-tight container, especially with dessicant, it will stay dry and shoot fine for a long time.  The important point is that you seal the container and leave it sealed until you are going to shoot the ammo.  If you are constantly opening the container, you are constantly introducing humidity.
4)  As far as M855 bullets, I assume I should use "pulled" bullets to save money over buying new.  Why were they pulled?  And does being "machine pulled & resized" matter, or should I get the "collet pulled, no marks" bullets?  Costs are 6.8 vs 8.3 cents each.  And I don't think these have green tips.  Still go with it?  Or use some other?
Other guys have given better opinions on the pulled bullets, but I would add this thought.  If you are shooting under 200yds, 55gr and less will be fine for accuracy (and cheaper).  62gr helps when you start to get out to 300 yds.  77gr are better for fighting the wind at 600 yds.  That being said, the match ammo has a boat tail to reduce drag, which will help at 300+yds.  Otherwise, the flat base will do fine 200yds and closer.  The biggest advantage that I see to boat tail ammo for shooting closer than 200yds is the ease in seating the bullet during reloading.  Buy the bullet that you are going to be able to afford the most of and also shoot.  You will be more effective than reproducing "military" ammo.  Also, the military ammo may be steel core and many ranges have restrictions on that round.  You also can't shoot steel plate targets (like in 3 gun competition) because it will destroy the targets.  They punch through metal to kill people, but they are not my first choice for hunting.  You would want a controlled expansion round.  Sierra Gameking are better for hunting, and Matchkings are great for accuracy.
5)  Are CCI primers ok?  I can get them for about 3.5 cents with Hazmat included.
CCI are fine.  I use Winchester myself, but there isn't much difference that I can see.  Keep in mind that the "mil-spec" calls for a harder cup on the primer, which is why they make CCI #41 primers.  I have also heard that Wolf Primers are harder cup, but don't have the data to back that up.
6)  Should I look at cheap surplus military powder, or commercial powder?
You will have to experiment with different powders to find this out.  There are lots of threads on this forum with everyone's favorite powders.  Some more expensive than others, but all similar in quality and performance.  Varget, XBR, Re15, TAC, H335, etc, etc.


Link Posted: 12/15/2011 7:12:41 AM EDT
[#20]
Plinkin ammo is for just general shooting, shtf and pretty much anything within +/- 200m.
For plinking ammo, I use a Possum Hollow trimmer that fits onto my hand drill. I can do hundreds of cases in an hour. You  will still need to chamfer the inside/outside of the necks. Otherwise, the bullet will get messed up when it is pushed into the case.

Accuracy ammo (match ammo) is for targets that are generally over 300m. I spend much more time making everything as consistent as possible because I want to make my groups as small as possible. For accuracy ammo, I use a hand trimmer that has the attachment to true the neck thickness as well as length. I also retrim these every time I reload.

Keep in mind that your bullets have a steel core in them. If you go to a range and shoot a steel target, your bullets will put holes in it. The owner will start cussing you out and make you buy him a new target. That's why I only shoot the Hornady FMJ bullet (lead core) for plinkers.

For SHTF rounds, hitting anyone with any projectile going 3,000fps will cause massive trauma and make them stop. The bigger issue is shot placement, and not so much the bullet weight. Pretty much any bullet designed for rapid expansion on soft tissue (hunting bullets) will be ideal for defense. The bullet weight really becomes in issue when it comes to distance (IMHO).

Since the hunting bullets are a little more expensive than the plinker bullets, try and match the bullet weight to your gun. Not the other way around. If you find your gun really likes a certain plinker bullet weight and powder recipe. Get some hunting bullets (i.e. Barnes Triple-Shock) and match that as closely as possible. I've seen a lot of people who normally shoot 55gr FMJ at the range out to 200m, say they keep a magazine loaded with 77gr Match bullets just because they want to shoot zombies out to 500m.
Link Posted: 12/15/2011 9:03:30 AM EDT
[#21]
Thanks guys.

This may be a dumb assessment, but judging by the huge price increases in everything from butter to electrical cords on the shelf in WalMart, I figure brass and bullets are next.  My thinking is I will go ahead and stock up on both 9mm and .223, but start out loading the 9mm.  Once I get that down pat, I'll buy the trimmer and .223 dies, and give it a go.  I guess I'll wait to buy the powder and primers for the .223 too.

Should I get a reloading manual and just pick any one of the recipes?  I would rather not spend $30 on powder only to find out I need a different one.  Is there a good powder that will almost certainly work well for basic 9mm ammunition?  There's a store about 20 minutes from here that has a reloading section, but I'm not sure what all powders they have.

Oh and I appreciate the info on the steel core bullets (M855).  So even if I had 1/2" plate targets, the m855 will destroy those?  In that case, I guess I better try to find some m193.  Most of what I had found affordably was pulled m855.  Although since I can use the 855 on paper, it's not a huge deal I guess as long as I maintain some amount of 193 on hand as well.  for the 9mm I am going to go with Precision Delta's 124-gr JHP, because it's about the same price as any FMJ I've found, so might as well.

Thanks!
Link Posted: 12/15/2011 10:19:52 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Thanks guys.

This may be a dumb assessment, but judging by the huge price increases in everything from butter to electrical cords on the shelf in WalMart, I figure brass and bullets are next.  My thinking is I will go ahead and stock up on both 9mm and .223, but start out loading the 9mm.  Once I get that down pat, I'll buy the trimmer and .223 dies, and give it a go.  I guess I'll wait to buy the powder and primers for the .223 too.

Should I get a reloading manual and just pick any one of the recipes?  I would rather not spend $30 on powder only to find out I need a different one.  Is there a good powder that will almost certainly work well for basic 9mm ammunition?  There's a store about 20 minutes from here that has a reloading section, but I'm not sure what all powders they have.

Oh and I appreciate the info on the steel core bullets (M855).  So even if I had 1/2" plate targets, the m855 will destroy those?  In that case, I guess I better try to find some m193.  Most of what I had found affordably was pulled m855.  Although since I can use the 855 on paper, it's not a huge deal I guess as long as I maintain some amount of 193 on hand as well.  for the 9mm I am going to go with Precision Delta's 124-gr JHP, because it's about the same price as any FMJ I've found, so might as well.

Thanks!


P.S. does anyone know of any reason I cannot use the Dillon 1200b case trimmer on the Lee 1000 progressive press?  The Lee can be had with the case collator and bullet feeder pretty affordably.  

Link Posted: 12/15/2011 11:23:28 AM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks guys.

This may be a dumb assessment, but judging by the huge price increases in everything from butter to electrical cords on the shelf in WalMart, I figure brass and bullets are next.  My thinking is I will go ahead and stock up on both 9mm and .223, but start out loading the 9mm.  Once I get that down pat, I'll buy the trimmer and .223 dies, and give it a go.  I guess I'll wait to buy the powder and primers for the .223 too.

Should I get a reloading manual and just pick any one of the recipes?  I would rather not spend $30 on powder only to find out I need a different one.  Is there a good powder that will almost certainly work well for basic 9mm ammunition?  There's a store about 20 minutes from here that has a reloading section, but I'm not sure what all powders they have.

Oh and I appreciate the info on the steel core bullets (M855).  So even if I had 1/2" plate targets, the m855 will destroy those?  In that case, I guess I better try to find some m193.  Most of what I had found affordably was pulled m855.  Although since I can use the 855 on paper, it's not a huge deal I guess as long as I maintain some amount of 193 on hand as well.  for the 9mm I am going to go with Precision Delta's 124-gr JHP, because it's about the same price as any FMJ I've found, so might as well.

Thanks!


P.S. does anyone know of any reason I cannot use the Dillon 1200b case trimmer on the Lee 1000 progressive press?  The Lee can be had with the case collator and bullet feeder pretty affordably.  



it would probably work but just so you know the trimmer takes up the space of 3 stations on my lnl, if i put it in station 2  1 and 3 have to be blank
Link Posted: 12/15/2011 1:32:54 PM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks guys.

This may be a dumb assessment, but judging by the huge price increases in everything from butter to electrical cords on the shelf in WalMart, I figure brass and bullets are next.  My thinking is I will go ahead and stock up on both 9mm and .223, but start out loading the 9mm.  Once I get that down pat, I'll buy the trimmer and .223 dies, and give it a go.  I guess I'll wait to buy the powder and primers for the .223 too.

Should I get a reloading manual and just pick any one of the recipes?  I would rather not spend $30 on powder only to find out I need a different one.  Is there a good powder that will almost certainly work well for basic 9mm ammunition?  There's a store about 20 minutes from here that has a reloading section, but I'm not sure what all powders they have.

Oh and I appreciate the info on the steel core bullets (M855).  So even if I had 1/2" plate targets, the m855 will destroy those?  In that case, I guess I better try to find some m193.  Most of what I had found affordably was pulled m855.  Although since I can use the 855 on paper, it's not a huge deal I guess as long as I maintain some amount of 193 on hand as well.  for the 9mm I am going to go with Precision Delta's 124-gr JHP, because it's about the same price as any FMJ I've found, so might as well.

Thanks!


P.S. does anyone know of any reason I cannot use the Dillon 1200b case trimmer on the Lee 1000 progressive press?  The Lee can be had with the case collator and bullet feeder pretty affordably.  



it would probably work but just so you know the trimmer takes up the space of 3 stations on my lnl, if i put it in station 2  1 and 3 have to be blank


So then with a Lee 1000 that only has 3 stations, I'm assuming this wouldn't be possible :-(  http://youtu.be/k5tWJsj6CbU
Link Posted: 12/15/2011 5:33:29 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:

So then with a Lee 1000 that only has 3 stations, I'm assuming this wouldn't be possible :-(  http://youtu.be/k5tWJsj6CbU



here are a few pics of my set up don't know what kind of room is on the lee. i didn't put the vacuum collar on for the pics but you get the idea.






Link Posted: 12/15/2011 6:21:33 PM EDT
[#26]
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