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Posted: 11/14/2011 6:23:32 PM EDT
With all of the nightmare stories about FC headstamps floating around. Would I be safe to load ones that were made from 2007your to present? I have over 50k80k of them.
Link Posted: 11/14/2011 6:35:29 PM EDT
No it wouldn't. Send them to me for disposal!

If the cases are once fired you could reload all of them. Just check for length & if you want to be really fussy sort them into batches.
Link Posted: 11/14/2011 6:39:45 PM EDT
I load it and have never had any issues.
Link Posted: 11/14/2011 6:42:32 PM EDT
The problem I have with FC is the primer pockets. Every time I reload them I throw maybe 10% away because the primer pockets are loose.
Link Posted: 11/14/2011 7:18:40 PM EDT
Small letter FC has been fine.
Large letter FC has been problematic.
Link Posted: 11/14/2011 8:16:30 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/15/2011 7:00:13 AM EDT
Originally Posted By WI57:
Small letter FC has been fine.
Large letter FC has been problematic.


Would you please clarify for me?

By small letter, do you mean lowercase?

Thanks in advance.
Link Posted: 11/15/2011 7:59:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/15/2011 8:01:18 AM EDT by ScEd1]
Originally Posted By UnderTheGun:
Originally Posted By WI57:
Small letter FC has been fine.
Large letter FC has been problematic.


Would you please clarify for me?

By small letter, do you mean lowercase?

Thanks in advance.


Federal Brass with LARGE headstamp on left, small headstamp on right.
the brass on the left (Large––headstamp) has a web thickness of less than .170 while the brass on the right (small headstamp) is .186 on average. .186 is typical for LC Brass, Win, and other brass considered to be top tier brass. The large headstamped brass will have a loose primer pocket after one or two firings and there are many reports of case head seperation. Personally I load the large headstamped brass once for use in my bolt gun then scrap it.
ETA: I also have FC Brass which has a date code rather than the "223 REM" that has the small text headstamp. Its the good stuff also. Dryflash has a method describing how and why to measure web thickness up in the tacked threads. Every reloader should learn to make a thickness measurement.

Link Posted: 11/15/2011 8:10:26 AM EDT
Thanks much! I appreciate the clarification and picture. Will look into the web advice as well.

Originally Posted By ScEd1:
Originally Posted By UnderTheGun:
Originally Posted By WI57:
Small letter FC has been fine.
Large letter FC has been problematic.


Would you please clarify for me?

By small letter, do you mean lowercase?

Thanks in advance.


Federal Brass with LARGE headstamp on left, small headstamp on right.
the brass on the left (Large––headstamp) has a web thickness of less than .170 while the brass on the right (small headstamp) is .186 on average. .186 is typical for LC Brass, Win, and other brass considered to be top tier brass. The large headstamped brass will have a loose primer pocket after one or two firings and there are many reports of case head seperation. Personally I load the large headstamped brass once for use in my bolt gun then scrap it.
ETA: I also have FC Brass which has a date code rather than the "223 REM" that has the small text headstamp. Its the good stuff also. Dryflash has a method describing how and why to measure web thickness up in the tacked threads. Every reloader should learn to make a thickness measurement.

http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af6/UpstateEd/IMG_4359.jpg


Link Posted: 11/15/2011 8:51:37 AM EDT
Originally Posted By ScEd1:
Originally Posted By UnderTheGun:
Originally Posted By WI57:
Small letter FC has been fine.
Large letter FC has been problematic.


Would you please clarify for me?

By small letter, do you mean lowercase?

Thanks in advance.


Federal Brass with LARGE headstamp on left, small headstamp on right.
the brass on the left (Large––headstamp) has a web thickness of less than .170 while the brass on the right (small headstamp) is .186 on average. .186 is typical for LC Brass, Win, and other brass considered to be top tier brass. The large headstamped brass will have a loose primer pocket after one or two firings and there are many reports of case head seperation. Personally I load the large headstamped brass once for use in my bolt gun then scrap it.
ETA: I also have FC Brass which has a date code rather than the "223 REM" that has the small text headstamp. Its the good stuff also. Dryflash has a method describing how and why to measure web thickness up in the tacked threads. Every reloader should learn to make a thickness measurement.

http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af6/UpstateEd/IMG_4359.jpg


Couldn't have said it better.
Link Posted: 11/15/2011 8:56:08 AM EDT
Originally Posted By alemonkey:
The problem I have with FC is the primer pockets. Every time I reload them I throw maybe 10% away because the primer pockets are loose.


Same here, I only reload it once.

Link Posted: 11/15/2011 12:44:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/15/2011 5:35:21 PM EDT by dryflash3]
Link Posted: 11/15/2011 4:22:27 PM EDT
Not to change the subject....BUT.....Can you post a pic of your stock pile, I would love to see what 50 to 80k of brass look like. I have a hard time storing what I have.
Link Posted: 11/15/2011 4:49:51 PM EDT
Good on Right, bad on left.



Large letter FC brass ready to give up, left first reload, right second reload.



Link Posted: 11/15/2011 4:57:48 PM EDT
If you're removing crimp with a Dillon or RCBS swager, you'll feel the thin web brass. The good FC will swage at the same support rod setting as LC.
Link Posted: 11/17/2011 12:00:08 PM EDT
Originally Posted By DanishM1Garand:
Originally Posted By alemonkey:
The problem I have with FC is the primer pockets. Every time I reload them I throw maybe 10% away because the primer pockets are loose.


Same here, I only reload it once.



Same here. In that regard, it's good for 'lost brass' matches.
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