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Posted: 9/2/2011 12:11:53 AM
[Last Edit: 4/22/2012 7:57:28 PM by AeroE]
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT Instead of hijacking the other thread I though I would show my own workbench design. I am by no means a carpenter, so this is a very simple design with a lot of "stout" and overbuilding built in. I have 4 of these in my computer store and I swear if you could get the car in the air, you could park one on these benches and they wouldn't budge.
The bench when finished is about 40" tall, 8' Long and 3' deep. I like big sturdy benches and this one will do the job. The bonus is that its heavy enough not to need to bolt to the wall.
What you will need:
4 - 96" 2X4's
14 - 33" 2X4's
2 - 8'X4' Sheets of 3/4" MDF or equivalent.
6 - 4X4's cut to 39" in length.
12 - 3/4" Carriage Bolts with Nuts, Fender Washers and Locking Washers.
93 - 2.5" or 3" Deck Screws
91 - 1 1/2" Deck Screws
First the Frame:
Take 2 96" 2X4's and lay them parallel approximately 3 feet apart. Take two 33" 2X4's and attach them to each end on the inside of the 96"ers as seen above. I use three 2.5" deck screws through the 96" piece into the 33" piece to secure them in place at each end. Then take a 33" piece and secure it in the middle of the two 96" pieces. Then put two more 33" pieces approximately15.5" apart between the center and outside 33" pieces.
Good, now you have one done, do it again and you have both frame pieces made.
Now cut and mount your 3/4" mdf or like material to one side of each frame so they look like this:
As you can see I screwed them down from the outside, to make the top a tad bit smoother I did countersink the holes before I ran in the screws.
Now for the hard part. On the inside corners of the bottom shelf you will need to cut a 4" X 4" hole with a jigsaw for the legs to go through. Only do this on one of the shelves, the top shelf needs no holes. So you will have a 4"X 4" hole at each outside corner inside of the 2X4 framing and then one on either side of the center rail frame. Look at the following picture closely to see the squares you will need to cut:
Now comes the easy part. Take the shelf you cut your holes out of and lay it on its side, then slide each 4X4 leg into on of the cutouts leaving 8" exposed at the bottom. 8" gives plenty of room for vacuum cleaners and off chairs to slide under the bench easily. Bolt each leg to the frame using a 3/4" Carriage Bolt but leave it a tad loose until we finish assembly. Once all 6 legs are in place put the bench up on its feet. Get a helper to help you lift the top shelf and put it on the top of the legs. You will need to jiggle a few of them to get them to drop where they need to be.
This is what it should look like from the bottom now: Your legs should go through the bottom shelf and rest on the bottom of the MDF of the top shelf. I use clamps to get the legs as tight to the corner as I can before I drill my holes for the carriage bolts.
Now your bench should be sitting upright. All you have left at this point is to install your carriage bolts for the bench top and attach it to the legs. Once you have all the bolts in place and the legs where you want em, tighten all the carriage bolts down real nice and tight.
This last step is optional. I added a backsplash for a place to mount tool holders, electrical plugins or surge protectors, phone and data jacks and the like. Using the scrap leftover from cutting your MDF, cut a full 8' length 8" wide piece. Then rip two 1" pieces at full length as well.
Assemble them as pictured here:
Take your two 96" X 1" pieces and glue them together, then attach them to the back of the bench screwing down from the top using some more 2.5" deck screws. Then attach your 96" X 8" piece to the to pieces you just attached to the bench using 1.5" deck screws.
Thats it, a afternoon and you have a good solid wont go anywhere bench. I did add some blocking under my benches where I mounted my presses to give it a tad more strength. I painted my benches white, and then put down a thin rubber runner on the top for a benchtop. You could use about anything, just use some filler to cover the screw holes and you could use Formica or the like. You could also put some trim on the front of the bench to dress it up abit if that is your wish as well, but trim work is beyond my abilities, I just live with them painted and utilitarian looking.
I hope you found this information helpful.
Minor title edit. AeroE |
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Posted: 9/2/2011 9:36:44 AM
[Last Edit: 9/2/2011 9:37:35 AM by ricky_arthur]
Nice looking design for someone with alot of room. Ought to be plenty sturdy for all your reloading/ etc needs. Only thing I would add if I built it would be another strip to the top, behind the backsplash so that it will set flush to a wall and not have that small space for stuff to fall into.
Thanks for posting. |
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Posted: 9/2/2011 10:30:56 AM
[Last Edit: 9/2/2011 10:36:49 AM by dryflash3]
Very nice post Angry-American, I'm sure this will help many.
You were wise to post this in your own thread. eta, I set the toggle for this thread so it won't slip into the archives. That's what that symbol is next to the thread title. If you ever want to post a link to your thread, click on My Topics and this thread will be there. For everyone else, this thread will always be on the last couple of pages in this forum. (pages 30 to 33) |
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Posted: 4/22/2012 10:11:23 AM
Bumping this to the top because it's a great post. Thank you, Angry-American. Yesterday I started building a bench based on your design. It'll be going out in my new shed/workshop.
A couple changes I made to the design of my bench:
1. I made the top 37" deep, so that there's a lip that overhangs the front. This way I'll be able to clamp things to it. I got that idea from another thread here in DIY.
2. I'm going to put the backsplash flush with the back edge of the bench and omit the two narrow backer strips.
Unfortunately I don't think I'll be able to finish it today because I don't have electricity in the shed yet and it's raining so I don't want to use an extension cord.
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Posted: 4/22/2012 12:02:52 PM
Great Job with your design and post!!!
Dane |
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Posted: 4/22/2012 12:11:05 PM
Looks good but I'd put gussets in as many of the corners as you can get. Or plywood sheeting on the back and sides and gussets in the upper corners on the front.
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Posted: 4/22/2012 1:07:10 PM
You may want to add 1.5 to 2.0 inches of overhang on the front. I like mounting my vise and reloading presses close to the edge and this gives enough overhang for a fender washer. Also, it gives you a little more room for your feet.
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Posted: 4/22/2012 1:29:13 PM
A tube of construction adhesive adds considerably to the overall stiffness of such structures...
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Posted: 4/22/2012 7:30:06 PM
I am just glad someone is finding my benches useful. I agree there needs to be a overhang, I found this out the hard way when I went to mount my reloading vice. As far as room for feet goes its high enough off of the ground that if you are sitting in a chair with wheels the wheels will fit right under the bench so you can put your feet on the first shelf if that's what you need. As far as Gussets go I really don't see the need. Once the bench is together and the bolts are tight it doesn't move at all, very solid. I have been toying with adding plywood to the back and sides with recessed doors for deep storage toward the back. The reason for the recessed drawers is I still need a place to put my feet as i am sitting in my chair in front of the bench.
Keep the ideas coming, and if you make a bench please include some pics so I can see your new ideas. That's the fun with things like these, there are always tweaks to make them better and the more brains in the project the better the results. |
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Posted: 4/22/2012 7:54:14 PM
I'm looking at options to allow quick install and removal of bench mounted tools (Vice, reloading press, belt sander, etc.)
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Posted: 4/22/2012 8:49:55 PM
Originally Posted By Bhart89:
I'm looking at options to allow quick install and removal of bench mounted tools (Vice, reloading press, belt sander, etc.) Im in the prosses of building a bench out of thin wall steel tubing and im putting a 2- 1/2'' x 2 -1/2'' receiver under the bench top with 3/4 winged set screws in the bottom and side of the receiver so when tightened it will take the slop out of the insert. I will have an insert with a vice and one with my press. I will post up a build thread when finished. |
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Posted: 4/23/2012 8:49:58 PM
The bench design is simple and practical. I like that!
What design software did you use for the renders? Thanks jonblack |
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Posted: 4/23/2012 9:30:27 PM
It needs diagonals or a plywood panel screwed to the back. Without diagonals, all that lumber goes to waste. It needs to have something to react the shear loads.
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Posted: 4/23/2012 9:43:14 PM
I just used Google Sketch.
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Posted: 4/23/2012 9:49:01 PM
Originally Posted By Bhart89:
I'm looking at options to allow quick install and removal of bench mounted tools (Vice, reloading press, belt sander, etc.) Checkout the t-slot made by 80/20. I am finishing up a bench using MDF as the OP recommended in his post. My bench is built into my wall. I have one layer of the MDF down and will be putting a second layer down with the 80/20 track in it. I will be holding down a vise (I am not sure how well it will work for barrel installs) and a Dillon Super 1050. I will probably also make a jig to support a rifle or compnents for maintenance or small parts change out. Mike |
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Posted: 4/23/2012 9:49:42 PM
Originally Posted By Still_learning: It needs diagonals or a plywood panel screwed to the back. Without diagonals, all that lumber goes to waste. It needs to have something to react the shear loads. Where the legs meet the bench top and bottom they are bolted hard to a front and side plane, this along with using 1/2" hardware and they do not move laterally. I supposed if you day in and day out did something with the bench for years on end that cause lateral movement they might start to loosen up. However from using these benches a piece of plywood along the back is a good idea to keep stuff from running off the rear and making a general cleaner appearance. However then I would need to cut holes for cables and electrical as I have the benches hard wired for electrical, telephone and network cable. I am still toying with making an enclosed version with drawers, lower cabinets and a hutch sitting on the upper portion for more storage. If I do this then I will just build in the wiring where I have a pigtail sticking out to be hardwired into a wall box or plug into a wall phone/network jack with a built in 4 port switch. |
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Posted: 4/24/2012 12:02:41 AM
Great minds think alike. Overkill? Yes, but I'll never have to build another one.
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Posted: 4/24/2012 9:21:54 AM
Originally Posted By Hogpauls: Great minds think alike. Overkill? Yes, but I'll never have to build another one. http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx308/Hogpauls/001.jpg http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx308/Hogpauls/006-1.jpg http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx308/Hogpauls/0131.jpg Nice bench! I like the power strip inlet into the front. |
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Posted: 4/24/2012 9:35:30 AM
Originally Posted By Bhart89:
I'm looking at options to allow quick install and removal of bench mounted tools (Vice, reloading press, belt sander, etc.) T-tracks work fine but then you have this metal groove in your benchtop for crap to fall into. Threaded inserts are the way to go.
threaded inserts In use
When not in use, I have threaded rods that use a 1/4" hex bit to install. Keeps anything from falling through the hole (and into my drawers below) ![]() |
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Posted: 4/24/2012 9:50:53 AM
Originally Posted By Angry-American:
I just used Google Sketch. Thank you for the info. I have heard of it before but never used it. Off to check it out now! jonblack |
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Posted: 4/24/2012 11:38:27 AM
Like Covertness I put a sheet of Masonite down over the MDF. Attach it with Liquid Nails and its good for years. I have 4 benches with Masonite on them, one bench is 8 years old and as long as you don't let a rip saw blade, oils, drills bits and other things bugger it up it'll look good for a very long time. Then again its a workbench that stuff will happen.
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Posted: 4/24/2012 11:43:21 AM
Nice Writeup. Will use for my next bench soon.
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Posted: 4/24/2012 11:46:15 AM
Originally Posted By Hogpauls:
Like Covertness I put a sheet of Masonite down over the MDF. Attach it with Liquid Nails and its good for years. I have 4 benches with Masonite on them, one bench is 8 years old and as long as you don't let a rip saw blade, oils, drills bits and other things bugger it up it'll look good for a very long time. Then again its a workbench that stuff will happen. Actually, I screw down a 1/4" sheet of hardboard on top of two layers of 3/4" plywood. That way if the top gets too dinged up or stained for my taste I can always replace it. OP's top uses a torsion box design for the top and thus two layers of 3/4" plywood are not needed. |
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Posted: 4/24/2012 2:58:55 PM
Nicely done AA.
For a brighter surface that will hold up pretty well use 3/4" melamine. I did a bench out of that a few years ago and it has my vise, a bench grinder, and looks good through the crap I've dumped on it, and I don't lose much except for the tiny screws and detents that inevitably disappear on the floor. An even more durable option, albeit more work, is maple. Its relatively cheap and very nice looking. Good info sir. Very good write up. |
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Posted: 4/24/2012 6:46:30 PM
[Last Edit: 4/24/2012 7:38:20 PM by big-Al]
Heres a sneak peak at my unfinished receiver mount. It could be made to lag bolt to a woodin bench.
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Posted: 4/24/2012 8:41:24 PM
[Last Edit: 4/24/2012 8:57:59 PM by Still_learning]
Originally Posted By Angry-American:
... a piece of plywood along the back is a good idea to keep stuff from running off the rear and making a general cleaner appearance. However then I would need to cut holes for cables and electrical as I have the benches hard wired for electrical, telephone and network cable. I am still toying with making an enclosed version with drawers, lower cabinets and a hutch sitting on the upper portion for more storage. If I do this then I will just build in the wiring where I have a pigtail sticking out to be hardwired into a wall box or plug into a wall phone/network jack with a built in 4 port switch. Bolts won't hold. They become pivot points for the racking. A piece of plywood across the back would do the job. It does no need to be the full height of the base, 12" high, glued and screwed across the back (just beneath the top) would do the job. An even easier way to do it is to lag screw it to the studs in the wall. The wall then acts as a shear panel. Having said all that, I forgot to say this, ... Nice bench! |
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