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Posted: 1/19/2011 9:18:13 PM EDT
I purchased some 7.62 NATO 90's german surplus from Sportsmansguide that is listed as Non-Reloadable.
It is brass cased FMJ ammo. I just finished this build and I am considering starting to reload my own rounds.
What is different about it that makes it non-reloadable?
Link Posted: 1/19/2011 9:22:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Bedan brass and primers are just more difficult to deal with.  They are usually refered to as being "non-reloadable."

Boxer primers are easy as pie in comparison.

Aloha, Mark

PS...........Pics to show the difference..............

http://www.texasboars.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14755


Link Posted: 1/19/2011 9:25:21 PM EDT
[#2]
Anything that is berdan primed is generally marked as non reloadable. It is possible to reload the cases, but berdan primer availability is sporadic, and it requires a lot of extra effort compared to boxer priming.



If you're set on reloading it, RCBS makes a berdan decapping tool. I think it's around $70.
Link Posted: 1/19/2011 9:26:43 PM EDT
[#3]
After looking a little closer at the casings I notice that the primers appear to be staked at 3 points. Does that damage the casing beyond repair?
Thanks for the info to a newbie soon to be reloader.
Link Posted: 1/19/2011 9:35:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
After looking a little closer at the casings I notice that the primers appear to be staked at 3 points. Does that damage the casing beyond repair?
Thanks for the info to a newbie soon to be reloader.


Pics could help, but IMO, a primer pocket reamer should take care of the staked portions.

ma96782 pointed out that it probably IS reloadable...but there comes a point of diminishing returns, at which you will throw up your hands and say, "F*** it."
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 2:50:23 AM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
After looking a little closer at the casings I notice that the primers appear to be staked at 3 points. Does that damage the casing beyond repair?
Thanks for the info to a newbie soon to be reloader.


Did you look inside the case? Is it boxer or berdan primed? That is what is most critical. Berdan primers are a PITA to deal with, and IMHO, they're a waste of time unless you're loading brass that is hard/impossible to find with boxer primers
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 5:40:53 AM EDT
[#6]
I knew the flash holes were different, but what is the difference between the Berdan and Boxer primers themselves?
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 6:34:29 AM EDT
[#7]
The Berdan primer was invented by an American, Hiram Berdan, it consisits of a cup with priming compound inside with the anvil fixed in the primer pocket of the case and twin flash holes. the Boxer primer was invented by a Brit. it consists of a primer cup with the anvil pressed into it and a single flash hole in the primer pocket. P.S. both men were coronels in their respective armies.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 6:35:38 AM EDT
[#8]
Boxer primers are a self contained priming system.  The priming compound and anvil all in one piece that only requires the correct size primer pocket and a flash hole through the cartridge to function.

Berdan primers do not have the anvil in them, they are just the priming compound.  The anvil is made into what would be the center of the flash hole of a normal brass or steel case with several smaller flash holes around the perimeter of the anvil. This is why it is difficult to remove and replace the primers.  Where a normal decapping pin would pass through there is actual casing material.

You can convert berdan brass to boxer but as explained before this is a project of diminishing returns unless the brass is something you really don't want to let go of.  There is a    Youtube video    of a guy converting steel cased Wolf into boxer primers.  While the idea is ridiculous to me and he is a little off on his info you can see the difference in the primers clearly in the video.  I think watching it will highlight for you just how pointless and labor intensive the project would be.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 6:41:47 AM EDT
[#9]
Berdan primers rely on a tit protruding to the rear of the case in the center of the primer pocket to crush & ignite the primer mixture when the firing pin strikes the primer.
Boxer primers have an anvil in the center of the primer cup with its high portion between the primer mixture & the inside of the primer cup base.
Firing pin strikes primer, crushes & ignites primer mixture.  Berdan primed case has 2 or 3 holes around center of case base as flash holes into case.
Boxer primed case has one hole in center of case base as flash hole.  Berdan is a PIA to deal with.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 6:43:27 AM EDT
[#10]
Thanks for all the input. I will have more questions to follow. But for now I'm going to start looking at new brass.
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 10:33:20 AM EDT
[#11]
Thanks for telling me the difference, guys.  That sounds familiar, like maybe I've heard it before, but who knows?  Certainly not me
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 10:39:22 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Anything that is berdan primed is generally marked as non reloadable. It is possible to reload the cases, but berdan primer availability is sporadic, and it requires a lot of extra effort compared to boxer priming.

If you're set on reloading it, RCBS makes a berdan decapping tool. I think it's around $70.


I've never reloaded berdan primed cases but that doesn't mean you can't. RCBS berdan decapping tool

Have fun...
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 12:50:14 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 2:27:43 PM EDT
[#14]





Quoted:



................rely on a tit protruding........................





No wiser words have ever been spoken! But, you should have stopped there.





 
Link Posted: 1/20/2011 4:39:12 PM EDT
[#15]
For the first time in decades (that I'm aware of) Berdan primers were available through Powder Valley. They sold out at a surprising rate. Powder Valley had no idea they would get that sort of response and are trying to get some more. This was only within the last few months. Keep your eye peeled on their website and act quickly if they reappear.

There is nothing wrong with reloading Berdan primed brass cases if you can get these primers. You can deprime them using the hydraulic method instead of the Lachmiller tool. Remove the decapping rod assembly from your resizing die, lube the case and resize it, while the case is in the resizing die insert a tight fitting steel rod through the top after filling the case with water. One or two wacks on the rod with a mallet will squirt the spent primer out the bottom. Messy but quick and cheap.
Link Posted: 1/21/2011 5:03:42 AM EDT
[#16]
BERDAN BRASS

De-Capping Berdan Primer Brass

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/berdanreloading/index.asp  

Converting Berdan to Boxer Primers

http://users.ameritech.net/mchandler/primer.html  

Try Finding Berdan Primers

http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/berdan_supplies_dimensions.html  
___________________________

Aloha, Mark
Link Posted: 1/21/2011 7:18:14 AM EDT
[#17]
Polymer coated steel cases and aluminum cases are also considered by some as "non-reloadable", even though these have boxer primers.  In fact, there is a note in bold on the box of CCI Blazers that says "Do not reload these cases."
Link Posted: 1/21/2011 6:46:39 PM EDT
[#18]
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