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Posted: 10/1/2010 12:15:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
Edit 9-1-2023, cleaned up excessive spacing. Note photoho deleted some pics and screwed up others. But thread still relevant.
This is how I loaded some Berdan primed 7.62 x 39 brass recently Why load Berdan brass? Why not? I was always curious and wanted to learn how. Besides SHTF and all of that. Besides I'm not in a hurry and all of my Boxer primed 7.62 x 39 brass is loaded. Started by depriming the cases, I ruined a few learning how to adjust and use the RCBS decapping tool. I get the Berdan primers at Powder Valley, Graf's, and Dag ammo. link to Dag Ammo, http://www.dagammo.com/shop/ At present, 8/01/2016 they are out of stock at all three places. edit, Now days I decap with a 5/16 cut off bolt mounted into a board that is bolted to holes in my bench for my 550. The adjustment is the pin that pries out the primer. It is held tight by a set screw. Pin is what I call the part that pries out the primer. Too little of the pin sticking out and primer does not come out. Too much pin sticking out will damage the anvil in the case. It's a trial and try it adjustment. Mine is adjusted for 7.62x39, 308, 30-06 and 6.5x55 size case heads. Lots of crap in the primer pockets, I made a tool for cleaning them out. Tried a modified RCBS PP cleaner. Worked a hole in the center of the brush. Had limited success with this. Bottom tool in pic. Took a small tipped straight slot screwdriver, cut most of the shaft off (above middle tool) and filed a slot in the center of the tip. This fits over the anvil of the case and works well when turned. To remove shaft from screwdriver, clamp shaft in vice. Use hammer to tap off handle. Cut shaft to desired length, insert shaft back into handle. The last part of primer pocket processing was to remove the primer crimp. Can't use a Dillon Super Swage here. The top tool is what I used. It's a 1/2 inch rotary ball file. 1/4 inch shank meant to be used in a die grinder or drill. Just inserted into a handle. It removed the crimp without touching the anvil in the case. Cases on left crimped, on right, crimps removed. Now on to case prep. Tumbled and cleaned out primer pockets again. Next time will tumble first, then remove primers and clean PP's once, now that I'm more confident removing the spent primers. Sizing was a problem for me. My existing single stage Boxer 7.62 x 39 dies are Lee and I didn't want to remove the decapping pins. So I bought a set of RCBS dies that had easy to remove decapping pin. My new 7.62 x 39 Berdan dies. Blue button is for .308 bullets, I will be loading .310 bullets so I used the large (red) button. My color code is blue for small, red for large, just how I roll. I used Dillon spray lube to size cases, checked sized brass with a case gauge, tumbled lube off in plain corn cob. Trimmed cases with my RCBS lathe type trimmer, and deburred cases. No pics as this is nothing out of the ordinary. Time to prime. This Berdan primer is larger in diameter than LR, so I modified my never used RCBS first model hand primer. To get the primers to feed I had to remove a little plastic to make the shaft a little wider in the black plastic part. Right where the pointer is on both sides. Used a box knife with a new blade. The problem with seating Berdan primers is you cannot feel the primer seating on the bottom of the primer pocket. You are actually crushing the primer on the anvil if you insert the primer too far. The solution was mentioned by Morning_Wood in another thread. Link Thanks for the help. An adjustable stop is installed in the priming tool. Dissemble priming tool, mark hole up from slot 3/4 inch as shown. Drill with #34 drill bit for a 6x32 blind tapped hole. You could drill through, but then you would have a burr to remove. After tapping, I screwed in a 6x32 bolt 1/2 long with a lock nut. After adjustment, the bolt stuck up 7/16 of an inch above the primer body. Will look something like this. Adjust bolt and lock nut until primers are seated .002 to .006 below case head. I was very happy with the positive stop, and the primers seated perfect. edit, one of my funshow finds is this first gen RCBS bench primer. Works very well. Notice 6/32 bolt on bottom used a stop. Now just a matter of charging cases and seating bullets. I am using up some IMR-4198 I had laying around, with some 122 gr soft points. Don't know the brand of these bullets, they were a fun show bargain. After bullet seating I used a Lee FCD die to apply a medium crimp. Finished. I hope I can get out and shoot these this weekend and give a range report. That was a lot of work taking pics, typing and organizing this post. Enjoyable work this. eta, another method to decap cases; Tools, vice, hammer and nail set punch. Also a 5/16 bolt cut off to support case as it's being decapped. Case is setting on 5/16 bolt, tap nail punch into primer. Remember anvil is centered in primer. Notice punch is off to the side a little. Pry out primer, done. |
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I was under the impression that berdan primers had become unavailable. The only ones I'd seen before were PMC I think...haven't seen them in a year or two.
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Originally post by 2theLeft: If done right, there is no taste, because it goes right down the throat..
IM me to find out about SSA's poor customer service |
Good job! Thanks for the write up.
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If the ocean was whiskey, and I was a duck, Id swim to the bottom and never come up.
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Could one:
Decap; Drill a centered flash hole: Then Enlarge the Primer Pocket to LR size for boxer primers?? Yes I know this is about fun and the not ease. Hell I am working on some homemade 54r tracers, and daytime ornge smoke tracers |
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Originally Posted By Chas8008: Could one: Decap; Drill a centered flash hole: Then Enlarge the Primer Pocket to LR size for boxer primers?? Yes I know this is about fun and the not ease. Hell I am working on some homemade 54r tracers, and daytime ornge smoke tracers This is what I've been wondering, because if you look at the inside of the case head, there's a little dimple on the backside of the anvil.... or at least on the ones I've looked at. So I'm guessing that all a guy would have to do is to put the tip of the drill on that dimple & drill out the anvil? |
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RIP, HoustonHusker.
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oh boy this is SO a tag....
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callmenoshie: "saying that females have the potential to be "bat shit crazy" is like saying the sky has the potential to be blue."
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Good job 'flash!
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Flash where did you get the Berdan primers and how much did the primers cost? Great write up by the way. |
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Originally Posted By Gone_Shootin:
Originally Posted By Chas8008:
Could one: Decap; Drill a centered flash hole: Then Enlarge the Primer Pocket to LR size for boxer primers?? Yes I know this is about fun and the not ease. Hell I am working on some homemade 54r tracers, and daytime ornge smoke tracers This is what I've been wondering, because if you look at the inside of the case head, there's a little dimple on the backside of the anvil.... or at least on the ones I've looked at. So I'm guessing that all a guy would have to do is to put the tip of the drill on that dimple & drill out the anvil? Your problem would be this: Originally Posted By dryflash3:
This Berdan primer is larger in diameter than LR, so I modified my never used RCBS first model hand primer. The boxer primer would not fit tight, even with the anvil removed since the berdan primers are already larger. I have read about guys that use sealants like clear nail polish or not removing the old primer crimp to fit standard LR boxer primers, but that sounds like a surefire recipe for blown out primers jamming up my gun. Powdervalleyinc.com had the berdan primers in stock a month or two ago for $23 per K. Shows out of stock now, but they are supposed to be getting another shipment in. |
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Originally Posted By dusten: Instead of removing the crimp what about a swedging tool so that no material is removed.Originally Posted By Gone_Shootin: Originally Posted By Chas8008: Could one: Decap; Drill a centered flash hole: Then Enlarge the Primer Pocket to LR size for boxer primers?? Yes I know this is about fun and the not ease. Hell I am working on some homemade 54r tracers, and daytime ornge smoke tracers This is what I've been wondering, because if you look at the inside of the case head, there's a little dimple on the backside of the anvil.... or at least on the ones I've looked at. So I'm guessing that all a guy would have to do is to put the tip of the drill on that dimple & drill out the anvil? Your problem would be this: Originally Posted By dryflash3: This Berdan primer is larger in diameter than LR, so I modified my never used RCBS first model hand primer. The boxer primer would not fit tight, even with the anvil removed since the berdan primers are already larger. I have read about guys that use sealants like clear nail polish or not removing the old primer crimp to fit standard LR boxer primers, but that sounds like a surefire recipe for blown out primers jamming up my gun. Powdervalleyinc.com had the berdan primers in stock a month or two ago for $23 per K. Shows out of stock now, but they are supposed to be getting another shipment in. |
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"I heard that Stickman likes to walk through a fat camp while eating a double whopper....." Danielisright
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Originally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly:
Two problems with this. First, most Berdan primed cases use some form of "stab" crimp-usually 2-4 small parts of the head around the primer are upset inward to hold the primer in. This means that there is relatively little metal involved in the crimp in the first place, but it also means that it's harder to center something in the pocket to push the stabs out of the way. The second, more important problem is that Berdan anvil in the middle of the primer pocket. A swage button to remove this crimping would have to have a cavity for the anvil, which is of course why dryflash mentioned he couldn't use his Dillon Super Swage on these cases.
Instead of removing the crimp what about a swedging tool so that no material is removed. For a full ring crimp, as done on US cases, you'd still have to battle that anvil in the middle. The ball file/mill dryflash used is a great compromise between utility and potential risk to the case and primer pocket integrity. |
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Originally Posted By Chas8008:
Could one: Decap; Drill a centered flash hole: Then Enlarge the Primer Pocket to LR size for boxer primers?? Yes I know this is about fun and the not ease. Hell I am working on some homemade 54r tracers, and daytime ornge smoke tracers Long answer is yes. It's been done. People have converted 7.62x54R or 8x56R to take shotgun primer. Short answer is it's not worth the time. Long time ago (early 90's), I bought a kit for 7.62x39 RCBS die. Contains bushing and long shank drill to drill holes from the top. It was worth it back then since Norma was the only game in town. Primer would not seat securely. You had to load individual round to SKS. Now, all major suppliers make boxer brass for 7.62x39 |
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Got the primers at Powder Valley as mentioned, think they were $24 per K.
I got some to experiment with. Hopefully they will get in more sometime soon. Like mentioned, the primer pocket of a modified (anvil drilled out) Berdan case is larger in diameter than a Boxer LR primer. A Boxer primer will just fall out of a modified Berdan primer pocket. There is a "guy" that does this on Utube, with steel Wolf 7.62 x 39 cases. He glues the primer in. A bad idea IMHO. He posted this method here and was told he was unsafe, and he has a rant at the end of his video about this reloading forum. |
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This thread is extremely relevant to my interests. Relatively new to reloading, and just bought a ton of brass-cased, non-corrosive Seventies-era Lapua 7.62x39. Apparently their ammo of this type was some Berdan, some Boxer for the civilian stuff. I don't know what mine is yet, though for the price it was cheaper per round than Wolf, so even if I had been unable to reload it I was still happy to get it.
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I have loaded Berdan since Old West Scrounger used to carry RWS Berdan primers. The only tool I use to remove them is a small #1 nailset with the tip flatted on one side. I hold the cases with an appropriately sized bolt held in a vice i.e. 1/4 inch for my 6.5 x55, 9/32 inch for 7.62, etc. I drive the nailset half way between the firing pin indent and the edge then pry the primer out .It takes a fair amount of practice, but I"m too cheap to spend $50 on the RCBS tool and steel case 7.62 x39 cases are everywhere free , they make great practice pieces, mostly not worth loading anyway.
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There always seems to be a low budget way to do things.
Thanks for posting an alternate method. |
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Originally Posted By ravinluna:
I have loaded Berdan since Old West Scrounger used to carry RWS Berdan primers. The only tool I use to remove them is a small #1 nailset with the tip flatted on one side. I hold the cases with an appropriately sized bolt held in a vice i.e. 1/4 inch for my 6.5 x55, 9/32 inch for 7.62, etc. I drive the nailset half way between the firing pin indent and the edge then pry the primer out .It takes a fair amount of practice, but I"m too cheap to spend $50 on the RCBS tool and steel case 7.62 x39 cases are everywhere free , they make great practice pieces, mostly not worth loading anyway. Remove decapping pin, fill case with water, run through standard sizing die. Hydraulic pressure should pop the primer right out. |
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Originally post by 2theLeft: If done right, there is no taste, because it goes right down the throat..
IM me to find out about SSA's poor customer service |
Anyone got a direct link to a place to buy one of those Lachmiller tools? Google is returning nonsense results and the RCBS site refuses to load. :-/
ETA: Nevermind, found it at Wideners. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Originally Posted By machinisttx:
Originally Posted By ravinluna:
I have loaded Berdan since Old West Scrounger used to carry RWS Berdan primers. The only tool I use to remove them is a small #1 nailset with the tip flatted on one side. I hold the cases with an appropriately sized bolt held in a vice i.e. 1/4 inch for my 6.5 x55, 9/32 inch for 7.62, etc. I drive the nailset half way between the firing pin indent and the edge then pry the primer out .It takes a fair amount of practice, but I"m too cheap to spend $50 on the RCBS tool and steel case 7.62 x39 cases are everywhere free , they make great practice pieces, mostly not worth loading anyway. Remove decapping pin, fill case with water, run through standard sizing die. Hydraulic pressure should pop the primer right out. Don't know if that would work or not, but I would not run water filled cases thru my dies or press. But that's me. If you do want to try this, remove the decapping pin first. note: I hit the wrong button and put this in machinisttx thread above. (that's why his post shows an edit by me) |
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Got a range report for us yet? I really hope they work out well, as I would hate to let all this nice Lapua brass from the ammo I bought go to waste if it turns out to be Berdan primed. Going to take the Tula down to the range in the next day or two and pull some bullets so I can see how the cases are primed.
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Last weekend didn't work out, this weekend for sure. I hope.
edit, all of my loads shot well. No misfires or other issues. |
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Originally Posted By Chas8008:
Could one: Decap; Drill a centered flash hole: Then Enlarge the Primer Pocket to LR size for boxer primers?? Yes I know this is about fun and the not ease. Hell I am working on some homemade 54r tracers, and daytime ornge smoke tracers Yes. Gunwriter covered how to do it in a thread in the AR Variants forum on reloading steel cases. IIRC he used a regular sizing die with the decapper (the decapper would actually punch a hole for you - though you'd occasionally break the decapping pin and some holes were unusable). Then when installing a primer he used a bit of epoxy. The funny thing is the second time the case was loaded the primer went right in like it was a Boxer primed case. Archived Thread on using Boxer Primers in Beriden Primed Steel Cases (Team Members only) |
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Originally Posted By Forest:
Originally Posted By Chas8008:
Could one: Decap; Drill a centered flash hole: Then Enlarge the Primer Pocket to LR size for boxer primers?? Yes I know this is about fun and the not ease. Hell I am working on some homemade 54r tracers, and daytime orange smoke tracers Yes. Gunwriter covered how to do it in a thread in the AR Variants forum on reloading steel cases. IIRC he used a regular sizing die with the decapper (the decapper would actually punch a hole for you - though you'd occasionally break the decapping pin and some holes were unusable). Then when installing a primer he used a bit of epoxy. The funny thing is the second time the case was loaded the primer went right in like it was a Boxer primed case. Archived Thread on using Boxer Primers in Berdan Primed Steel Cases (Team Members only) I have read threads about using a Lee Universal decapping die and running it through a steel Wolf Berdan primed 7.62 x 39 case. Well it didn't work for me. (Remember the case is steel.) Even if it did work, using glue or epoxy to secure a primer in a case is not smart, or a passable reloading practice. No thanks here. I haven't seen a pic of a glued in primer after it has been fired. How do you remove epoxy? Heat. All a moot point now that Berdan primers are available again. Far left, Silver bear steel nickle Berdan case next to factory round. Next to that Wolf steel Berdan case next to factory round. Right, brass Berdan cases next to factory round. Cast bullets from a Lee 155 gr 2R mold. So just load your steel Wolf Berdan primed cases with Berdan primers. |
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Bump for new intrest in this technique.
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Bump for new intrest in this technique. How much difference is there in pocket diameter??? Just wondering if the pocket could be bumped down for a better fit? The labor of decapping is a serious turn off! I guess it depends on the quantity… I think I would defer this exercise for really hard-to-find brass Could a 1 Stroke tool be fabricated? |
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Boxer LR .210 diam Berdan 5.5mm LR .217 diam. There are also Berdan Cases that use even larger Berdans up to 6.5mm mostly Brit and pakistan .303 and a lot of the OLD Kynoch african calibers
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There was an aricle in Handloader in the late 70's about making a tool set to convert Bredan 5.5mm to boxer. It consisted of a punch that mashed the anvil flat and partially close the dual flash holes, with a shoulder that pushed the edge of the primer pocket down to swage the brass to the smaller dia., a drill bushing to drill out the flash hole and a caliber specific case holder. I paid a gunsmith to make the set as per instructions, but he had no clue how the Heat treat the punch so it would last. My punch got deformed after two cases and the SOB wouldnt' replace it. That's when I got my first RWS 5620's and started loading them.
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My notes about reloading Berdan primed brass............
Boxer or Berdan (with drawing/picture)……… http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscelle.htm#primers www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/primer.cfm ___________________________ BERDAN BRASS De-Capping Berdan Primer Brass http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/berdanreloading/index.asp Converting Berdan to Boxer Primers http://users.ameritech.net/mchandler/primer.html Try Finding Berdan Primers http://www.dave-cushman.net/shot/berdan_supplies_dimensions.html BTW.......dryflash3......you're "DA MAN" wiith your pictures/tutorial on this subject. Aloha, Mark |
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So.... where do you go for Berdan primers these days?
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I got my Berdan primers at Powder Valley, Graf's also had them.
At present they are both out. I check both sites weekly to see if they are back in stock. If you are not familiar with those sites, they are up in Links. |
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good job, lot of work there.
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Originally Posted By AL50bmgshooter:
good job, lot of work there. Thanks, something I enjoy doing. |
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Could this be adapted to the Berdan-primed 7.62x51? I just bought some South African battle packs.
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Originally Posted By Psychovore: Could this be adapted to the Berdan-primed 7.62x51? I just bought some South African battle packs. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile You bet. I reload the SA berdan 7.62X51 all the time. They decap very easily with the RCBS tool. |
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Originally Posted By Psychovore:
Could this be adapted to the Berdan-primed 7.62x51? I just bought some South African battle packs. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Takes a different primer. Same size larger priming compound charge for 308. Primers I am using are for 7.62x39 and have less priming compound that the normal .271 LR Berdan primer. Find the correct primers, and you can use my methods for 308. |
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Hurry, Berdan Rifle Primers Here
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Originally Posted By Chas8008:
Could one: Decap; Drill a centered flash hole: Then Enlarge the Primer Pocket to LR size for boxer primers?? Yes I know this is about fun and the not ease. Hell I am working on some homemade 54r tracers, and daytime ornge smoke tracers I have done this 20 years ago. a company made a long drill plus hardened guide for RCBS dies. You press in the case in the die, drill out. The problem was the primer. The boxer primer was slightly small. Often, it would fall out. Back in those days, there weren't many boxer primed 7.62x39. Then Lapua brought some wonderful boxer primed brass for .25 each. That solved my problem. Lapua brass are much much better than American brass. |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Update;
Got my 10k Berdan primer order in yesterday. I was down to 511 primers. Ordered them from Dag ammo. I waited 3 years for Berdan primers to be stocked anywhere. I got mine get yours. |
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I've enjoyed reading and following this thread (and the one about loading 7.62x39 steel cases) and have decided to give it a try. FYI Powder Valley has Tula Berdan primers in stock. I just ordered 2,000. Has anyone tried this method of depriming Berdan brass?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350506140922?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I didn't buy the auction but I'm going to need to figure out something. Thanks, Dryflash for posting this. J |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By osucowboy8:
I've enjoyed reading and following this thread (and the one about loading 7.62x39 steel cases) and have decided to give it a try. FYI Powder Valley has Tula Berdan primers in stock. I just ordered 2,000. Has anyone tried this method of depriming Berdan brass? http://www.ebay.com/itm/350506140922?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I didn't buy the auction but I'm going to need to figure out something. Thanks, Dryflash for posting this. J I tried the hydraulic method before, it was a wet mess and didn't work for me. Don't know if that tool in that link will work or not. All depends on the fit between the case mouth and the punch. Been watching Powder Valley for years watching for the Berdan primers to be stocked again. Gave up and ordered from Dag Ammo. Glad they have them back in stock. |
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Wonder if Grafs will again, had them on one of my vists to the store awhile back
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I scored a batch of Berdan primer brass off of the EE. I decapped a small batch last night using the RCBS Berdan decapping tool. It worked fine once I got the hang of it.
Today I set out to resize my batch from last night and I've run into a small snag. I'm using a set of used RCBS dies I got off eBay. I also picked up a Wilson 7.62X39 case gage. As I'm setting my resizing die I usually check each case in the gage to make sure I'm getting them properly resized. I can't get a single case to drop into the gage. I got a loaded steel case round (it's all I have in 7.62x39) to make sure the gage is okay. It drops right in and out, as expected. I've adjusted the die and increased the cam and even tried resizing without a cam over. I can lightly tap the cases into the gauge but I know that's not what I'm looking for. To make sure it wasn't the Berdan primer brass, I got a boxer primer case and resized it (using cam over and without) and it also won't drop freely into the gage. I've included a couple of photos for your inspection. Any idea what the problem might be? Is the die not resizing down to the base? Incidentally, I checked and it is the FL sizing die. I quick measurement with my calipers show that the inside of the mouth of the die .440. Can someone check their dies against this measurement? Upon closer inspection, it looks like it might be the case rim that's causing it not to fit. Thoughts? It crossed my mind that maybe it's not that important if one were shooting these out of a SKS/AK rifle, but still I'd like to get it right. Any input you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, J Usually, my images disappear after a short time, so here are the direct links in case they're not showing up. http://upload.pbase.com/osucowboy8/image/140068278 http://upload.pbase.com/osucowboy8/image/140068277 |
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Looks like you may want to try a little closer case inspection to find the root cause.
Some calipers thrown around a sample that does drop into the case gage, then compared to one you sized may show you the issue. Focus on the shouder radius first. See if the distance from the rim to the shoulder radius looks right. Then see if the base diameter where the web blends into the case wall looks right. This isn't easy to do without some gaging aids, but you can do this if you have a little skill with inspection. |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Went out to shop and took pics.
I see that you are on line, give me a couple of minutes to down load pics. |
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Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Thanks, DF. That's good news. I did have about 50 that gaged out of the 100 or so that I resized this afternoon. I think I'll go ahead and load 100 and see what happens. I'm going to wet tumble them over night. I'll post a reply when I get a few bullets seated this week to update on whether they will chamber in my sks. Thanks again for your reply. I am grateful for your help.
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Glad to help when I can.
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
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I hope this isn't too much of a hijack, but I have a question about Berdan .308...
I have some surplus Portuguese and Australian 308 that is Berdan primed, and it pains me to recycle this brass.. That being said, I have also heard that the Australian brass is very difficult to deprime even using the RCBS tool, and was wondering if anyone has any first hand experience or feedback to tell me if this might be worth trying or not... Thanks! |
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By Buck_Naked:
I hope this isn't too much of a hijack, but I have a question about Berdan .308... I have some surplus Portuguese and Australian 308 that is Berdan primed, and it pains me to recycle this brass.. That being said, I have also heard that the Australian brass is very difficult to deprime even using the RCBS tool, and was wondering if anyone has any first hand experience or feedback to tell me if this might be worth trying or not... Thanks! What are the headstamps of your brass? I have several hundred 308 Berdan cases I can deprime to see. Remember 308 will use a different Berdan primer than 7.62x39. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By Buck_Naked:
I hope this isn't too much of a hijack, but I have a question about Berdan .308... I have some surplus Portuguese and Australian 308 that is Berdan primed, and it pains me to recycle this brass.. That being said, I have also heard that the Australian brass is very difficult to deprime even using the RCBS tool, and was wondering if anyone has any first hand experience or feedback to tell me if this might be worth trying or not... Thanks! What are the headstamps of your brass? I have several hundred 308 Berdan cases I can deprime to see. Remember 308 will use a different Berdan primer than 7.62x39. I believe the headstamp is AFF 90, but I will double check tomorrow... if you want me to send some your way and you can try it, let me know... Thanks! Dave |
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