Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Page / 10
Link Posted: 2/21/2011 9:11:02 PM EDT
[#1]
Bump for anyone who hasnt tried this.

I just made 32 ounces for 10 bux and it works really well.

32 ounces from dillon would cost me $32 plus shipping
Link Posted: 2/21/2011 9:26:58 PM EDT
[#2]



Originally Posted By AeroE:


I have another need for IPA besides case sizing and would as soon have pure alcohol, or at least 99% IPA.



For a batch of case lube, what you're doing makes sense.





99% IPA is the best you are gonna get, as it is VERY hygroscopic, meaninig it attracts water.

Just exposing it to air, it will suck up moisture, rapidly.



and I would probably question the 99% part of the deal, for the gas-line antifreeze.

The 91% version from the drug store is about the best that can be achieved on a normal

commercial basis, AFAIK.



YMMV





 
Link Posted: 2/21/2011 10:01:43 PM EDT
[#3]
for reference, there is a product available in the maternity section of your local grocer called "nipple cream". It is concentrated lanolin cream, but much cheaper than the "liquid lanolin" for what you get from it.

1 tsp per 24oz of 99% iso-propyl will get you a lube better than any you've used.
Link Posted: 2/22/2011 8:45:25 PM EDT
[#4]
Boosted; never would of though to look for lanolin there, but it makes perfect sense now that you mention it.

sdshooter...........
Link Posted: 2/22/2011 9:56:21 PM EDT
[#5]
I found the 8:1 ratio left a serious film on my cases....I wound up thinning it out to about 14:1. YMMV
I had a hell of a time finding liquid lanonlin around these parts....finally one day whlie my son was at guitar lessons, I walked next door to the "Village Market"...a natural/health food type store. Lo and behold, they had "NOW Personal Care" brand  for $3.95 per 4 oz bottle...I bought 3
Link Posted: 6/2/2011 9:47:12 AM EDT
[#6]
bumping for us cheap bastards
Link Posted: 6/2/2011 11:00:11 AM EDT
[#7]
bumptag for good info
Link Posted: 6/2/2011 11:23:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: SteelonSteel] [#8]
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Originally Posted By creedlemyerjones:
I would also like to know how you are applying this because I was under the impression that you don't want lube on the shoulder.


Don't worry about it.  Unless you slather on far too much lube.


I'm going to have to extend my search for 99% IPA, so far I'm coming up empty handed.  There's a wholesale vet supply business near where I live that will probably be my next stop.



Some of the drug stores have the 99% alcohol but most have the low 90ish%.  I tend to pick up 99% at the paint aisle in Lowe's by the metal quart can.  Probably not the cheapest source but still considerably cheaper than buying the Dillon brand.  


ETA- damn this is a Zombie thread!
Link Posted: 6/2/2011 12:11:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AeroE] [#9]
Link Posted: 6/2/2011 1:58:53 PM EDT
[#10]
I'll be heading the store to pick up what I need, thanks for the how to
Link Posted: 6/2/2011 10:07:47 PM EDT
[#11]
I have seen the light with this lube!  It is the best thing going, hands down.  

I used a 13oz. spray bottle for my application.  Put 1oz. of lanolin in and about 10oz. of 91% IPA (isopropyl alchohol).  I found that yes there is a little bit of residue left on the case, but they get cleaned anyways.  Plus, it pretty much guarantees that I won't get a stuck case like I did with the One Shot.  I have only made the one batch and haven't been resizing much more than 400-500 cases, but I definitely notice the difference.

In comparison to the One Shot, this "Bootleg Lube" as I call it, allows me to start resizing almost right away.  Whereas with the One Shot, I has to wait for a few minutes before I started resizing, otherwise it would be a little hard to resize.  Plus, this bootleg lube is lasting me a long time.  The OneShot stuff required a generous application in order to feed things through properly, from my experience of course.  I'm not sure if anyone else has had the same issue with OneShot.

Anyways, thanks again for the tutorial and excellent write-up!  This has been a huge benefit for me.
Link Posted: 6/2/2011 10:14:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: chris65] [#12]
Originally Posted By huge_gator:
This might be a tag for an easy reference later


+1 This thread is so good I tagged it twice...
Link Posted: 6/2/2011 10:56:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Originally Posted By SteelonSteel:
Originally Posted By AeroE:
Originally Posted By creedlemyerjones:
I would also like to know how you are applying this because I was under the impression that you don't want lube on the shoulder.


Don't worry about it.  Unless you slather on far too much lube.


I'm going to have to extend my search for 99% IPA, so far I'm coming up empty handed.  There's a wholesale vet supply business near where I live that will probably be my next stop.



Some of the drug stores have the 99% alcohol but most have the low 90ish%.  I tend to pick up 99% at the paint aisle in Lowe's by the metal quart can.  Probably not the cheapest source but still considerably cheaper than buying the Dillon brand.  


ETA- damn this is a Zombie thread!


All I have seen in any hardware store in recent years is methylated ethyl alcohol to make it too nasty to drink sold as "denatured alcohol".  This is good for cleaning up tools and mill parts with old coolant and lubricant dried on.



Aw hell, my quart can is methyl alcohol.  the can says Denatured and I didn't think methyl.  I was thinking the Isopropyl denatured.  I suppose it's for outdoor use only now.  Warnings on the can say that too.  Well it certainly beats the first liquid I used that RCBS tested, the carrier was hexane which is 10x worse than methanol.   i recognized the smell right off from the RCBS spray lube after working with hexane in the lab for a few years.  it was a freebie test bottle they sent with a replacement part.

Well ventilated area for sure.  Sorry about the poor suggestion.  I'm going to swing by the farm store and check them out.
Link Posted: 6/4/2011 9:08:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Lifttech] [#14]
Seems like a good idea but more trouble than buying Imperial IMO. A tin of that stuff lasts alot of cases.

BTW One-Snot......ahem......I mean One-Shot, turned to varnish in my dies and ended up scratching cases, along with providing me with the only stuck cases I ever had, I'd rather use an RCBS lube pad. It will also attack some plastic loading trays.
Link Posted: 6/4/2011 9:32:24 PM EDT
[#15]
thanks for the good DIY recipes
Link Posted: 12/29/2011 10:49:27 AM EDT
[#16]
Does it have to be liquid lanolin?

I have alot of anhydrous lanolin I use to make Ed's Red, etc.
Link Posted: 12/30/2011 12:35:32 AM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 12/30/2011 7:54:37 AM EDT
[#18]
Originally Posted By RDak:
Does it have to be liquid lanolin?

I have alot of anhydrous lanolin I use to make Ed's Red, etc.


I used the thick stuff that they sell as nipple relief for breastfeeding mothers.. its pure lanolin but after everything cooled, it settled out.  I can shake and make it work, but I'm going to try another batch with the Vitamin Shoppe liquid lanolin mentioned in the OP.
Link Posted: 12/30/2011 2:39:03 PM EDT
[#19]
Tag for later
Link Posted: 12/30/2011 4:25:09 PM EDT
[#20]
cooking spray for the past 100k cases and no problems so long as you tumble them afterwords.  Doesn't even have to be PAM cooking spray, no stuck cases since I quit using the junk sold by reloading companies.
Link Posted: 12/30/2011 4:26:45 PM EDT
[#21]
Wasn't castor oil mentioned in one of these type of threads?
Link Posted: 12/30/2011 4:27:42 PM EDT
[#22]
Tried to find the materials at local stores...no lanolin or alcohol higher than 91% could be found at Walmart,Cvs or Grocery stores
Link Posted: 12/30/2011 4:36:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BIGGDAWG] [#23]
Originally Posted By dnmccoy:
Tried to find the materials at local stores...no lanolin or alcohol higher than 91% could be found at Walmart,Cvs or Grocery stores


i use Iso heat that you get at parts stores the red bottle. it is 99% isopropyl and works just fine. i get the lanolin at a health store about 20 miles away but you can buy it online also.



Link Posted: 12/30/2011 6:02:56 PM EDT
[#24]
Originally Posted By Lifttech:
Seems like a good idea but more trouble than buying Imperial IMO. A tin of that stuff lasts alot of cases.

BTW One-Snot......ahem......I mean One-Shot, turned to varnish in my dies and ended up scratching cases, along with providing me with the only stuck cases I ever had, I'd rather use an RCBS lube pad. It will also attack some plastic loading trays.




Imperial is good stuff for those who load on a single stage,  but not a viable option for those of us who load up batches of 1000 on our Dillon X650 in one sitting.

Link Posted: 12/30/2011 6:31:48 PM EDT
[#25]



Originally Posted By dnmccoy:


Tried to find the materials at local stores...no lanolin or alcohol higher than 91% could be found at Walmart,Cvs or Grocery stores


I've been using the 91%. There's no problems with it.



 
Link Posted: 12/30/2011 7:16:12 PM EDT
[#26]
Originally Posted By dnmccoy:
Tried to find the materials at local stores...no lanolin or alcohol higher than 91% could be found at Walmart,Cvs or Grocery stores


Find a health food/herb store for the Lanolin and a compounding pharmacy for the 99% alcohol, that's where I found mine anyway.
Link Posted: 12/31/2011 7:58:30 AM EDT
[#27]
Thanks for the info guys.

I guess I'll just buy some liquid lanolin.
Link Posted: 1/1/2012 3:28:18 AM EDT
[#28]
I use Dillon Case Lube (DCL). I spray 5 shots into a gallon ziplock bag BEFORE adding the brass. This provides an even coating inside the bag with no puddles, etc. Then add about 1 quart container of brass and shake/roll it around for a minute. Open the bag and let it breathe a minute or 2.

The brass will have a light coating of lube without coating your reloading bench with overspray. If you screw up and get some cleaning media (walnut or corncob) in the bag, replace it! They are cheap.

No lube dies, pads or containers to mess with or to clean. No stuck brass or lube dents. Happy brass, happy dies, and happy reloading dude.

Removing lube- 2 minutes or so in the tumbler with walnut shell will remove the DCL. It also removes skin oils and fingerprints (!!!!) and, despite rumors to the contrary, will not turn 748 into U-235.

For 100% thread protocol compliance and for future reference, I will start making the homebrew version. THANKS!
Link Posted: 1/1/2012 6:27:22 AM EDT
[#29]
When I mention the word, "lanolin" around here, they all look at me like I just stepped out of a fucking alien spacecraft.  If I send one of you guys the $, can you send it to me please?
Link Posted: 1/1/2012 9:09:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: peteinnewyork] [#30]
Originally Posted By effinNewGuy:
When I mention the word, "lanolin" around here, they all look at me like I just stepped out of a fucking alien spacecraft.  If I send one of you guys the $, can you send it to me please?


http://www.vitaminshoppe.com/store/en/browse/sku_detail.jsp?id=EC-1045
Link Posted: 1/1/2012 9:11:56 AM EDT
[#31]
Originally Posted By effinNewGuy:
When I mention the word, "lanolin" around here, they all look at me like I just stepped out of a fucking alien spacecraft.  If I send one of you guys the $, can you send it to me please?



many places here on the net you can buy it   lanolin
Link Posted: 1/1/2012 9:37:19 AM EDT
[#32]
Originally Posted By Ronnie_B:
I use Dillon Case Lube (DCL). I spray 5 shots into a gallon ziplock bag BEFORE adding the brass. This provides an even coating inside the bag with no puddles, etc. Then add about 1 quart container of brass and shake/roll it around for a minute. Open the bag and let it breathe a minute or 2.

The brass will have a light coating of lube without coating your reloading bench with overspray. If you screw up and get some cleaning media (walnut or corncob) in the bag, replace it! They are cheap.

No lube dies, pads or containers to mess with or to clean. No stuck brass or lube dents. Happy brass, happy dies, and happy reloading dude.

Removing lube- 2 minutes or so in the tumbler with walnut shell will remove the DCL. It also removes skin oils and fingerprints (!!!!) and, despite rumors to the contrary, will not turn 748 into U-235.

For 100% thread protocol compliance and for future reference, I will start making the homebrew version. THANKS!


Thanks for the tip!!

Link Posted: 1/1/2012 9:40:59 AM EDT
[#33]
The next time I need lanolin I'll probably get it here.  This place has it for pretty cheep.  Free shipping too.



http://www.herbspro.com/shop/xq/asp/ptid.68386/qx/productdetail.htm?gclid=CM-czseGr60CFUOo4AodBFaLmQ




Link Posted: 1/3/2012 12:48:51 AM EDT
[#34]
Made up some of your case lube today.....lubed up some .223 & some .30-06 (where I usually have some "stickey" cases) and have to say I am very impressed!
I tried every way possible to get it to screw up but everything went very smooth.....sized nice, no dents, cleaned up great and have alot left for later.
Thanks for the tip!
B
Link Posted: 1/3/2012 2:25:27 AM EDT
[#35]

How did I miss this thread?

Tag.

Link Posted: 1/3/2012 6:28:02 PM EDT
[#36]
I just came from Sam's, pharmacy can order 99% alcohol ISO. Item #225-1536  just a little over 3 buck for 16oz. I would think Costco could order it also. Might call before you drive.
Link Posted: 1/3/2012 6:56:08 PM EDT
[#37]
Not so long ago, lanolin was used for keeping one's hands soft after working hard with them, for smoothing out rough skin, and even waterproofing boots.  Now the trend is to use shea butter for skin and somewhat exotic chemicals for boots.  That's why nobody has a clue when you say "I need some lanolin."  Searching the Internet can take some time, but I found anhydrous, NON-liquid lanolin for a great price at Wholesale Supplies Plus, a vendor of soap and candle making supplies. It's called "lanolin butter" on their site.

Using anhydrous lanolin takes a couple extra steps (you really have to get it melted before you add the alcohol) but I think it's more efficient.
Link Posted: 1/4/2012 6:45:50 AM EDT
[#38]
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Not so long ago, lanolin was used for keeping one's hands soft after working hard with them, for smoothing out rough skin, and even waterproofing boots.  Now the trend is to use shea butter for skin and somewhat exotic chemicals for boots.  That's why nobody has a clue when you say "I need some lanolin."  Searching the Internet can take some time, but I found anhydrous, NON-liquid lanolin for a great price at Wholesale Supplies Plus, a vendor of soap and candle making supplies. It's called "lanolin butter" on their site.

Using anhydrous lanolin takes a couple extra steps (you really have to get it melted before you add the alcohol) but I think it's more efficient.


Please provide your recipe as I always have a bunch of anhydrous lanolin on hand for Ed's Red type of concoctions.

Also, do you mix the melted lanolin directly in the alcohol while hot?

Thanks for any info.

I buy mine from the Chemistry Store but your link is good because it includes shipping.

http://www.chemistrystore.com/search.cgi?keywords=lanolin
Link Posted: 1/4/2012 7:00:51 AM EDT
[#39]
The recipe is simple, somewhere around 1:10 lanolin to alcohol.  Solid anhydrous lanolin includes waxy components that help with case lubrication, but because of the waxiness, the mixing is more involved.

The trick is that the semi-solid anhydrous lanolin has to be heated quite a bit to combine with the alcohol, but you can't "pour" it.  I can't find the site I got these instructions from but it goes like this:

Use a table knife to scoop out the appropriate weight of lanolin onto a piece of aluminum foil.  Put the foil in a glass jar.

Pour in the appropriate weight of 91% or stronger isopropyl alcohol.  Don't bother trying to mix it-it won't at this point.  DO NOT put a lid on the jar yet.

Put the jar in a pan of hot water, not quite boiling.  Make sure you start with enough water to get the jar hot but not so much that it will overflow when you put the jar in.

In a few minutes the alcohol will get warm and warm up the lanolin.  It will melt smoothly, if somewhat slowly.  Once it's all melted you can take the jar out of the boiling water, put a lid on it and shake it. When thoroughly mixed, take the used foil out and pour the mixture into a spray bottle.  The spray will settle a little bit, but it should remain basically mixed on the long term.  You may need to warm up the whole spray bottle to get the contents better mixed at times, but it should just take "hot" tap water to do this.

Link Posted: 1/4/2012 7:10:40 AM EDT
[#40]
Thank you.

I use that warming in a pan of water method to dissolve beeswax into turpentine and linseed oil for wood refinishing.  I understand what you are saying.

Thanks again!!
Link Posted: 1/4/2012 2:18:13 PM EDT
[#41]
Originally Posted By azlester:
Here is my contribution to the subject of lubes. I have used the Lee case lube for awhile on a pad...never really like using the pad but this thread and others got me thinking. Lee has always said that their lube is water soluble, so I tried it. I didn't care for the results as it took too long to dry and left the brass water marked. The threads about using ISO got me thinking so I wrote to Lee about using ISO and this is the reply I got back from them.

Yes it can be mixed with alcohol. We suggest using a 10 to 1 mix of denatured alcohol and case lube. Make sure to shake the bottle before every use as they will separate.

Thank You
Lee Precision


So I am going to make a run to the drug store and get a bottle of alcohol and mix it up and see how she does. I like the idea of using a couple of messed bullets to aid with the mixing. The Lee case lube is $2.50 for 2.5oz so that is just about what the lanolin costs. I'll let you all know how it does.


Found this site when I research some alternatives for case lube.
http://www.tacticoolproducts.com/caselube/
Link Posted: 1/6/2012 11:21:23 PM EDT
[#42]
A gun shop in Tucson sells this stuff.  We've used it on the 1050 and never had a single problem.
Link Posted: 1/18/2012 2:07:35 PM EDT
[#43]
New to reloading and went with One Shot since it came with my press.  Sized about 15 cases before one got hellishly stuck in my new hornady 223 sizing die.  Decided to order some dillon dies and find some lanolin and IPA somewhere.  Took a full work day of phone calls but I finally found a place that had liquid lanolin in stock.  Cant wait to get back to work (once the new dies come)....

Now to figure out where to send my brand new hornady sizing die for brass removal.  
Link Posted: 1/18/2012 3:24:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dirt_Napper] [#44]
Originally Posted By niacin:
New to reloading and went with One Shot since it came with my press.  Sized about 15 cases before one got hellishly stuck in my new hornady 223 sizing die.  Decided to order some dillon dies and find some lanolin and IPA somewhere.  Took a full work day of phone calls but I finally found a place that had liquid lanolin in stock.  Cant wait to get back to work (once the new dies come)....

Now to figure out where to send my brand new hornady sizing die for brass removal.  


As an RN, I know that finding liquid lanolin outside of the hospital setting can be difficult to find.  Over the years, unfortunately, far too many of my female RNs coworkers shared TMI during their pregnancies.      I would think that Amazon.com would be your best bet for finding lquid lanolin reasonably priced and readily available.  I've been ordering from Amazon for over a decade, and have never had an order that didn't arrive in a very reasonable time frame, or any other issue, for that matter.
Link Posted: 1/18/2012 4:08:31 PM EDT
[#45]
dont waste your time looking for it at pharmacies and stores,or even on the net. just go to a health food store and they sell it in the pure liquid form. I actually spent more gas driving around,when it was right under my nose at the health food store.

4 oz cost $9, and I mixed it with about 40 oz of 99 and 91 % isopropyl.  I now have enough for about 30,000 cases,I m guessing..........

no special mixing , just shake it up before every use and make sure you let it dry off before you size..........its been working great for me.
Link Posted: 1/18/2012 6:06:17 PM EDT
[#46]
Getting ready to start reloading .308. I have been reloading for pistol for a few years and never needed case lube, so this is new to me.
Question on use: so you spray the outside of the cases, but do you use anything on the inside?

I just picked up a set of RCBS SB dies, and still need to get a trimmer, bullets, primers, powder.
Link Posted: 1/18/2012 8:08:44 PM EDT
[#47]
Originally Posted By TGrant:
Bump for anyone who hasnt tried this.

I just made 32 ounces for 10 bux and it works really well.

32 ounces from dillon would cost me $32 plus shipping


So if a case of the Dillon lube is 160oz for $136.00 ( no shipping in this ).  You made that same amount of lube for $50.00 .  I'm sold will be looking into this ASAP as I'm just about out now and I buy the Dillon lube by the case.  Thats not being cheap  that's a very heathy savings

Link Posted: 1/18/2012 8:17:08 PM EDT
[#48]
Originally Posted By Henny:
The next time I need lanolin I'll probably get it here.  This place has it for pretty cheep.  Free shipping too.

http://www.herbspro.com/shop/xq/asp/ptid.68386/qx/productdetail.htm?gclid=CM-czseGr60CFUOo4AodBFaLmQ




They sell it in a 7oz container  
Link Posted: 1/19/2012 8:02:33 AM EDT
[#49]



Originally Posted By ReefRaider:



Originally Posted By TGrant:

Bump for anyone who hasnt tried this.



I just made 32 ounces for 10 bux and it works really well.



32 ounces from dillon would cost me $32 plus shipping




So if a case of the Dillon lube is 160oz for $136.00 ( no shipping in this ).  You made that same amount of lube for $50.00 .  I'm sold will be looking into this ASAP as I'm just about out now and I buy the Dillon lube by the case.  Thats not being cheap  that's a very heathy savings





RR this is what I did.



I got the 4oz bottle, and @ 12:1 that is perfect for 3 bottles of Alcohol.



For my area the Lan is $4 and $2 for the 91%alc . and that makes 52oz for $10ish.



And every thing almost fits back in the Alc bottles nice and nice





 
Link Posted: 1/19/2012 9:46:29 AM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By Hanzerik:
Getting ready to start reloading .308. I have been reloading for pistol for a few years and never needed case lube, so this is new to me.
Question on use: so you spray the outside of the cases, but do you use anything on the inside?

I just picked up a set of RCBS SB dies, and still need to get a trimmer, bullets, primers, powder.



This is what I learned here..........works just as well for all the spray lubes(BTW, I had no problem with the hornady one shot)

use the plastic bag method, just set the cases in a row with the necks facing the front. then pump at few sprays in. a little of the lube will get in, and then cloe up the bag and shake a little. dump out on a paper towel and let dry.  then after trimming,deburing,and chamfering, some just wipe the cases off ,other tumble them again.........I wash them in thinner, which cleans them great and drys fast. so now they are ready to use right away. I then filter and settle the dirty thinner,to be reused later.

Page / 10
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top