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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:27:22 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kaldor:
Probably not a big deal. Its likely something else in the Lanolin that is an additive. I get a little something settling out on mine as well. I just shake and spray. No issues. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kaldor:
Originally Posted By overdriv:
I have noticed that there is a white flaky substance settling out in the bottom of my lanolin/alcohol mixture. I can shake it up and it seems to be working about the same as always. But the residue is still in the bottom. Anyone else seen this? Probably not a big deal. Its likely something else in the Lanolin that is an additive. I get a little something settling out on mine as well. I just shake and spray. No issues. I have noticed the longer mine sets, the older it gets, the more stuff collects in the bottom. It still seems to work as when new, just wondering what is causing it. BTW, the lanolin I'm using says it's pure lanolin, water extracted. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 1:41:28 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By overdriv: I have noticed that there is a white flaky substance settling out in the bottom of my lanolin/alcohol mixture. I can shake it up and it seems to be working about the same as always. But the residue is still in the bottom. Anyone else seen this? That's the way the store bought lube is. Don't know what it is, just shake well and use. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 7:24:13 PM EDT
[#3]
The white stuff is the waxy component of the lanolin. Even liquid lanolin has some small amount of dissolved wax, and eventually it will settle out. Nothing to worry about.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 2/26/2015 2:30:01 AM EDT
[#4]
Putting the bottle of case lube mixture in some hot water, then shaking after the bottle is warmed up will most likely get the precipitate back in solution.
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Posted: 2/26/2015 10:43:55 AM EDT
[#5]
I have a question for those who have some experience with the homemade case lube - Is this alcohol acceptable for the recipe Isopropyl Alchohol Cleaner (99.9%)?
It's selling at $12.95 shipped for 1 quart (32 oz), which is signficantly cheaper per ounce than anything else I've seen. The difference is this product is not marketed as a pharmacy product, but as a cleaner. I'm assuming 99.9% isopropyl alchohol is the same, regardless of the packaging, but wanted to see if there was a subtle difference I'm missing with regards to making case lube. Also, when I search Amazon for "liquid lanolin" and "99% isopropyl alcohol", some of the items Amazon suggests as frequently purchased together are headspace gauges and decapping dies 
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WI, USA
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Posted: 2/26/2015 10:51:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Kaldor]
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AeroEngineer:
I have a question for those who have some experience with the homemade case lube - Is this alcohol acceptable for the recipe Isopropyl Alchohol Cleaner (99.9%)? It's selling at $12.95 shipped for 1 quart (32 oz), which is signficantly cheaper per ounce than anything else I've seen. The difference is this product is not marketed as a pharmacy product, but as a cleaner. I'm assuming 99.9% isopropyl alchohol is the same, regardless of the packaging, but wanted to see if there was a subtle difference I'm missing with regards to making case lube. Also, when I search Amazon for "liquid lanolin" and "99% isopropyl alcohol", some of the items Amazon suggests as frequently purchased together are headspace gauges and decapping dies
Should be good to go. Thats about pure as you can get as its used for cleaning electronics. Edit: And great find by the way! |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 2/26/2015 10:59:45 AM EDT
[#7]
I had the flakes settling to the bottom too, I heated the bottle up in a tub of hot water until they disolved. The lube worked much better after doing this, less dented shoulders, smoother sizing.
This happened when I used to keep the bottle out in my attached garage. After heating and re-disolving, I started keeping the spray in the house, It has not re-settled yet, it's been two years. |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 12:38:02 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AeroEngineer: I have a question for those who have some experience with the homemade case lube - Is this alcohol acceptable for the recipe Isopropyl Alchohol Cleaner (99.9%)? It's selling at $12.95 shipped for 1 quart (32 oz), which is signficantly cheaper per ounce than anything else I've seen. The difference is this product is not marketed as a pharmacy product, but as a cleaner. I'm assuming 99.9% isopropyl alchohol is the same, regardless of the packaging, but wanted to see if there was a subtle difference I'm missing with regards to making case lube. Also, when I search Amazon for "liquid lanolin" and "99% isopropyl alcohol", some of the items Amazon suggests as frequently purchased together are headspace gauges and decapping dies According to the add, that's what you want. |
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Posted: 2/26/2015 9:01:29 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks for that, I'm on it!!
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Posted: 2/26/2015 9:46:56 PM EDT
[#10]
Quick question from a newbie here. Does this lube need to be wiped off at all or can I leave it as is once the alcohol evaporates? I would basically clean, then lube, then full length size and decap/ After that trim and all that so I am curious if you all wipe it off or not?
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Posted: 2/26/2015 11:40:07 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunowner99: Quick question from a newbie here. Does this lube need to be wiped off at all or can I leave it as is once the alcohol evaporates? I would basically clean, then lube, then full length size and decap/ After that trim and all that so I am curious if you all wipe it off or not? Yes you must remove the lube before firing you rounds. You let the alcohol evaporate before sizing so you don't get stuck cases. Lube and size. Tumble off the lube with plain corn cob, takes about 30 minutes. Then do case prep; remove primer crimp if needed, trim if needed, debur, chamfer, then load. |
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Posted: 2/27/2015 8:24:59 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Yes you must remove the lube before firing you rounds. You let the alcohol evaporate before sizing so you don't get stuck cases. I use a 2 tumble system. Tumble to clean case. Lube and size. Tumble off the lube with plain corn cob, takes about 30 minutes. Then do case prep; remove primer crimp if needed, trim if needed, debur, chamfer, then load. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By Gunowner99:
Quick question from a newbie here. Does this lube need to be wiped off at all or can I leave it as is once the alcohol evaporates? I would basically clean, then lube, then full length size and decap/ After that trim and all that so I am curious if you all wipe it off or not? Yes you must remove the lube before firing you rounds. You let the alcohol evaporate before sizing so you don't get stuck cases. I use a 2 tumble system. Tumble to clean case. Lube and size. Tumble off the lube with plain corn cob, takes about 30 minutes. Then do case prep; remove primer crimp if needed, trim if needed, debur, chamfer, then load. I use dryflash's system. Use clean, plain corn cob media without additives (no polish, just media) and let the cases tumble. Cases will look a little hazy when you start 'em in the tumbler, but when all the lube is gone, they'll be nice and shiny. Change out your media when it starts taking a lot longer to get 'em shiny. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 2/27/2015 9:12:17 AM EDT
[#13]
perimedik: From my POV, your recipe is way too complicated. Personally, I don't depend on spray-on type lubes. Instead, I have a $3 bottle of drugstore castor oil that I apply to each case with my fingers - more to the case head and very little to the neck and shoulder. It is very slippery, works great in my sizer dies and cleans up without any sticky residue left in my tumbler. At the rate its being consumed, this little bottle will last many years, perhaps a lifetime. - CW
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Posted: 2/27/2015 9:37:34 AM EDT
[#14]
Great thread, looking forward to giving this a try.
If anyone's looking for 99% Isopropyl Alcohol at a good price, I found it here for $2.46 / pint. Two x 1 pint bottles, shipped, came to $10.31 which is the best deal I could find. |
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Posted: 2/27/2015 9:54:48 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chasw:
perimedik: From my POV, your recipe is way too complicated. Personally, I don't depend on spray-on type lubes. Instead, I have a $3 bottle of drugstore castor oil that I apply to each case with my fingers - more to the case head and very little to the neck and shoulder. It is very slippery, works great in my sizer dies and cleans up without any sticky residue left in my tumbler. At the rate its being consumed, this little bottle will last many years, perhaps a lifetime. - CW The point of the spray on is efficiency. You put a couple hundred cases in a card board box, spritz it a couple times, shake it up, spritz it again, shake it, and done. Let it dry. Much faster and than lubing each case individually. |
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Posted: 2/27/2015 10:10:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Gunowner99]
[#16]
I have a question, if I tumble then deprime and full length resize, trim chamfer and all that other case work. Then I do another tumble before I reload with that be a problem? It seems like that would get it completely clean of all the shavings and all that as well.
The media that I have is walnut shell with some new finish in it. Will that be a problem to use to clean the cases of this lube and will I need to change out the media more often because I use the same media for everything for for all cleaning of all cases.follow what I'm saying? Basically, what I'm asking is is it okay if I use the same media all the time for all my cleaning processes but then just change it out more often? And is like 15 minutes in my vibratory cleaner to clean the lube off long enough? |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 2/27/2015 10:22:02 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunowner99:
I have a question, if I tumble then deprime and full length resize, trim chamfer and all that other case work. Then I do another tumble before I reload with that be a problem? It seems like that would get it completely clean of all the shavings and all that as well. The media that I have is walnut shell with some new finish in it. Will that be a problem to use to clean the cases of this lube and will I need to change out the media more often because I use the same media for everything for for all cleaning of all cases.follow what I'm saying? Basically, what I'm asking is is it okay if I use the same media all the time for all my cleaning processes but then just change it out more often? And is like 15 minutes in my vibratory cleaner to clean the lube off long enough? Also, I suggest you avoid any cleaning media that contains additives like jeweler's rouge. These additives get inside your cases and are almost impossible to remove. I like to use plain corn cob for both initial cleaning and the secondary scrub of the sizing lube. When the media starts to turn dark, after perhaps 10 loads, I dump it and refill with new media. good luck - CW |
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Posted: 2/27/2015 10:30:25 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunowner99:
I have a question, if I tumble then deprime and full length resize, trim chamfer and all that other case work. Then I do another tumble before I reload with that be a problem? It seems like that would get it completely clean of all the shavings and all that as well. The media that I have is walnut shell with some new finish in it. Will that be a problem to use to clean the cases of this lube and will I need to change out the media more often because I use the same media for everything for for all cleaning of all cases.follow what I'm saying? Basically, what I'm asking is is it okay if I use the same media all the time for all my cleaning processes but then just change it out more often? And is like 15 minutes in my vibratory cleaner to clean the lube off long enough? That's the way I've always done it. It gets the lube off the cases before the final loading, and also gets rid of any burrs / swarf / other detritus from uniforming the primer pockets, deburring the flash holes, trimming etc. I do put a universal decapping die in station 1 on my loading toolhead just in case the final tumble leaves a granule of corncob media in a flash hole. Shouldn't be a problem, I only dry tumble and I've never kept two sets of media around for separate stages of the case prep process. I know some guys do a wet tumble first and then a dry tumble to finish. Whatever floats your boat! I give mine an hour or so, but I like really shiny things. Try it for 15 mins, and if you're happy with the results then you'll know. |
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Posted: 2/27/2015 10:52:25 AM EDT
[#19]
Thank you so much, you guys are the best!
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Posted: 2/27/2015 2:35:38 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunowner99: I have a question, if I tumble then deprime and full length resize, trim chamfer and all that other case work. Then I do another tumble before I reload with that be a problem? It seems like that would get it completely clean of all the shavings and all that as well. The reason I clean/tumble cases right after sizing is so I don't have to handle lubed cases during brass prep. I don't have any problems with shavings. The media that I have is walnut shell with some new finish in it. Will that be a problem to use to clean the cases of this lube and will I need to change out the media more often because I use the same media for everything for for all cleaning of all cases.follow what I'm saying? Basically, what I'm asking is is it okay if I use the same media all the time for all my cleaning processes but then just change it out more often? Walnut works best for cleaning. Plain corn cob works best for removing lube. If you choose to use the same media for both, you will have to change your media often. Just easier to get some plain corn cob and use that. And is like 15 minutes in my vibratory cleaner to clean the lube off long enough? With your media, it will take much longer. |
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Posted: 2/27/2015 10:17:18 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AeroEngineer:
I have a question for those who have some experience with the homemade case lube - Is this alcohol acceptable for the recipe Isopropyl Alchohol Cleaner (99.9%)? that's the stuff I use. Has worked good. |
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Posted: 2/27/2015 10:37:49 PM EDT
[#22]
This recipe works awesome!
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Posted: 2/27/2015 10:41:11 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mall-Ninja:
I use Imperial Case Sizing Wax...8 bucks for a 2 oz can that I've barely made a dent in over 5 years... This...........PROVEN product,cheap,readily available.........what's the problem? |
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Posted: 2/27/2015 11:47:02 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DanaHillen:
This...........PROVEN product,cheap,readily available.........what's the problem? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DanaHillen:
Originally Posted By Mall-Ninja:
I use Imperial Case Sizing Wax...8 bucks for a 2 oz can that I've barely made a dent in over 5 years... This...........PROVEN product,cheap,readily available.........what's the problem? Volume production slows down a lot with something that has to be applied to each case with your fingertips. It sort of defeats the purpose of a case feeder on a progressive press, etc. If there was a way to apply Imperial to 100 cases at a time, so that my (kinda expensive) case feeder could be useful, I'd be there in a heartbeat - that stuff has a great track record. But since it's a finger-tip application, I'm sticking with a home brewed, lanolin-based spray lube. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 1:29:32 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DanaHillen: This...........PROVEN product,cheap,readily available.........what's the problem? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DanaHillen: Originally Posted By Mall-Ninja: I use Imperial Case Sizing Wax...8 bucks for a 2 oz can that I've barely made a dent in over 5 years... This...........PROVEN product,cheap,readily available.........what's the problem? |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 1:14:29 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By Gunowner99:
I have a question, if I tumble then deprime and full length resize, trim chamfer and all that other case work. Then I do another tumble before I reload with that be a problem? It seems like that would get it completely clean of all the shavings and all that as well. The reason I clean/tumble cases right after sizing is so I don't have to handle lubed cases during brass prep. I don't have any problems with shavings. The media that I have is walnut shell with some new finish in it. Will that be a problem to use to clean the cases of this lube and will I need to change out the media more often because I use the same media for everything for for all cleaning of all cases.follow what I'm saying? Basically, what I'm asking is is it okay if I use the same media all the time for all my cleaning processes but then just change it out more often? Walnut works best for cleaning. Plain corn cob works best for removing lube. If you choose to use the same media for both, you will have to change your media often. Just easier to get some plain corn cob and use that. And is like 15 minutes in my vibratory cleaner to clean the lube off long enough? With your media, it will take much longer. I bought some corncob. How long with that for the lube removal? |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 2:07:52 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunowner99:
I bought some corncob. How long with that for the lube removal? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunowner99:
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By Gunowner99:
I have a question, if I tumble then deprime and full length resize, trim chamfer and all that other case work. Then I do another tumble before I reload with that be a problem? It seems like that would get it completely clean of all the shavings and all that as well. The reason I clean/tumble cases right after sizing is so I don't have to handle lubed cases during brass prep. I don't have any problems with shavings. The media that I have is walnut shell with some new finish in it. Will that be a problem to use to clean the cases of this lube and will I need to change out the media more often because I use the same media for everything for for all cleaning of all cases.follow what I'm saying? Basically, what I'm asking is is it okay if I use the same media all the time for all my cleaning processes but then just change it out more often? Walnut works best for cleaning. Plain corn cob works best for removing lube. If you choose to use the same media for both, you will have to change your media often. Just easier to get some plain corn cob and use that. And is like 15 minutes in my vibratory cleaner to clean the lube off long enough? With your media, it will take much longer. I bought some corncob. How long with that for the lube removal? 10 to 15 minutes is sufficient in a vibratory or rotary tumbler with unadulterated corn cob. Unfortunately the time saved will be used up by checking and clearing the flash holes, but my rotary separator helps with that, vigorous tumbling action knocks most of the bits of cob out. |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 2:57:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunowner99: Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gunowner99: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Walnut works best for cleaning. Plain corn cob works best for removing lube. If you choose to use the same media for both, you will have to change your media often. Just easier to get some plain corn cob and use that. And is like 15 minutes in my vibratory cleaner to clean the lube off long enough? With your media, it will take much longer. I bought some corncob. How long with that for the lube removal? I would check the tumbler after 30 minutes. If the cases are still greasy, let them tumble some more. What I do is let them go for 2 hours and never check them. As they are clean at this point. This corn cob media will not stick in the flashole as it flows through the flashole. http://www.grainger.com/product/ECONOLINE-Blast-Media-2MVR4?nls=1&searchQuery=2mvr4 Good luck |
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Posted: 2/28/2015 4:56:00 PM EDT
[#29]
I can never remember the corn cob grit size that is not suppose to clog flash holes, and I haven't resorted to measuring the walnut I have. I'm still working out of an old bucket of corn cob media and don't foresee running out soon. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2015 4:59:25 PM EDT
[#30]
Interesting. I used olive oil on 1000 cases before just put on real light.
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Posted: 3/1/2015 12:05:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AeroE: I can never remember the corn cob grit size that is not suppose to clog flash holes, and I haven't resorted to measuring the walnut I have. I'm still working out of an old bucket of corn cob media and don't foresee running out soon. There is a smaller size 14-20, Grainger # 2MVR4 $38.25 for 40 pounds.  Small grit 14-20 on the left that the case is in, larger stuff on the right is from the pet store and it will stick in the flashole/primer pocket. http://www.grainger.com/product/ECONOLINE-Blast-Media-2MVR4?nls=1&searchQuery=2mvr4 for the 14-20 grit. edit to add link |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 9:45:32 AM EDT
[#32]
I'm using 20-40 grit from Granger. I have a VERY occasional granule in a flash hole with this stuff, but it seems to be mostly with cases that have burred flash holes. I've found that running cases in a vibratory tumbler WITHOUT media for about 5 minutes will knock those out almost all the time. On the other hand, using my rotary separator vigorously, after it looks like all the media has been separated, seems to do a pretty good job of it too.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/2/2015 7:03:16 PM EDT
[#33]
Interesting to note that case lubrication/reloading is mentioned by Wikipedia as one of lanolin's many uses.
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KS, USA
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Posted: 3/2/2015 7:57:34 PM EDT
[#34]
I have been using this great bootleg mixture, but I can't get my spray bottle to last. If I drain it out and shake it till dry my spray bottle locks up or quits spraying by the next time. I have been using spray bottles around the house and am out of types to try???? I like to spray but may have to putting cases is a gallon zip lock bag and shaking it around. what do you guys use??? |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 8:13:03 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rgerh:
I have been using this great bootleg mixture, but I can't get my spray bottle to last. If I drain it out and shake it till dry my spray bottle locks up or quits spraying by the next time. I have been using spray bottles around the house and am out of types to try???? I like to spray but may have to putting cases is a gallon zip lock bag and shaking it around. what do you guys use??? Keep trying different spray bottles and or adjust your mixture ratio slightly. I never drain mine I just shake it up and go. Still working on the batch I mixed up from last year this time. |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 11:42:52 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rgerh: I have been using this great bootleg mixture, but I can't get my spray bottle to last. If I drain it out and shake it till dry my spray bottle locks up or quits spraying by the next time. I have been using spray bottles around the house and am out of types to try???? I like to spray but may have to putting cases is a gallon zip lock bag and shaking it around. what do you guys use??? After the original product was used, I've refilled it twice so far. Maybe something different with the original spray bottle. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 9:14:20 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
I'm using a used Franklin Arsenal (Midway) spray lube bottle. After the original product was used, I've refilled it twice so far. Maybe something different with the original spray bottle. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By rgerh:
I have been using this great bootleg mixture, but I can't get my spray bottle to last. If I drain it out and shake it till dry my spray bottle locks up or quits spraying by the next time. I have been using spray bottles around the house and am out of types to try???? I like to spray but may have to putting cases is a gallon zip lock bag and shaking it around. what do you guys use??? After the original product was used, I've refilled it twice so far. Maybe something different with the original spray bottle. If you guys are using the ziplock bag method do you still have to lube the inside of the neck before resizing? I have my oil and alcohol coming Monday. Currently using the RCBS pad and occasionally get a dented shoulder due to too much inside the neck pushing out so I've decided to try a different approach. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 10:09:09 PM EDT
[#38]
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Posted: 3/26/2015 10:44:15 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/How%20To/P2250794.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/How%20To/P2250794.jpg</a> I use the box method. Notice there are a lot of cases neck up? 2 sprays like this, shake the box around and repeat, 2 sprays. Enough cases get lube in the neck for easy sizing. How could lube get into the necks in a bag? It doesn't seem like it could but I've never seen it mentioned. I'm new to reloading so I thought I'd ask instead of assuming and wasting time or destroying brass. Took me a few cases to figure out how I was oil denting shoulders when I wasn't applying lube to the shoulder or the outer neck. It's quickly coming together though thanks to a lot of info in the forum. One of the things that tested me was why my trim length kept changing. The Franford trimmer goes of of the neck. The neck sits against what I finally figured out is an aluminum bushing that wore quickly. I wasn't pushing the case in with much force so I may need to have one cut from steel or stainless. PS I'm not saying this to kiss your ass. IMO this is the best sub-forum I've visited on this site. You're constantly checking in and giving as much info as you can. Thank you! 
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Posted: 3/26/2015 11:00:15 PM EDT
[#40]
Thanks, there is a great group of reloaders in this forum. I learn a lot here too.
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Posted: 3/27/2015 7:11:42 AM EDT
[#41]
I use the bag method. I put the cases in the bag so they're in an upright-ish bunch when I spray the lube in, so a bunch of them get lube in the necks. I shake and stir the cases inside the bag so everything gets some lube on it. Once they're nicely mixed, I lay them out in a single layer in a container and let them get good and dry, and I let the bag dry inside out
I use a small, fine-mist sprayer, like this: 
The mist seems to be very effective at getting the lube into case mouths, and its small volume pump keeps me from overdoing. |
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Posted: 3/27/2015 11:51:28 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: I use the bag method. I put the cases in the bag so they're in an upright-ish bunch when I spray the lube in, so a bunch of them get lube in the necks. I shake and stir the cases inside the bag so everything gets some lube on it. Once they're nicely mixed, I lay them out in a single layer in a container and let them get good and dry, and I let the bag dry inside out I use a small, fine-mist sprayer, like this: http://www.uline.com/images/product/Large/S_20077_L.jpg The mist seems to be very effective at getting the lube into case mouths, and its small volume pump keeps me from overdoing. That makes sense now. So both methods relay on most of the cases being sprayed with the neck up. Thanks for the clarification. |
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Posted: 3/27/2015 7:31:35 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
That makes sense now. So both methods relay on most of the cases being sprayed with the neck up. Thanks for the clarification. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
I use the bag method. I put the cases in the bag so they're in an upright-ish bunch when I spray the lube in, so a bunch of them get lube in the necks. I shake and stir the cases inside the bag so everything gets some lube on it. Once they're nicely mixed, I lay them out in a single layer in a container and let them get good and dry, and I let the bag dry inside out I use a small, fine-mist sprayer, like this: http://www.uline.com/images/product/Large/S_20077_L.jpg The mist seems to be very effective at getting the lube into case mouths, and its small volume pump keeps me from overdoing. That makes sense now. So both methods relay on most of the cases being sprayed with the neck up. Thanks for the clarification. |
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Posted: 7/7/2015 10:10:27 PM EDT
[#44]
I just ran out of my first batch
 but I also had a gallon of the stuff
I found 12:1 to be the sweet spot for me and have turned this case lube onto some friends that are old timers and were set in their ways. They are very happy with it. |
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Posted: 7/8/2015 10:13:30 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Vinny302]
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AeroE:
10 to 15 minutes is sufficient in a vibratory or rotary tumbler with unadulterated corn cob. Unfortunately the time saved will be used up by checking and clearing the flash holes, but my rotary separator helps with that, vigorous tumbling action knocks most of the bits of cob out. Get around that by not tumbling lube off until the ammo is loaded just as the manufactures do. Vince |
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Posted: 7/9/2015 7:54:02 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Vinny302:
Get around that by not tumbling lube off until the ammo is loaded just as the manufactures do. Vince Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Vinny302:
Originally Posted By AeroE:
10 to 15 minutes is sufficient in a vibratory or rotary tumbler with unadulterated corn cob. Unfortunately the time saved will be used up by checking and clearing the flash holes, but my rotary separator helps with that, vigorous tumbling action knocks most of the bits of cob out. Get around that by not tumbling lube off until the ammo is loaded just as the manufactures do. Vince Or just use the correct size corn cob that doesn't stick in flash holes... I use 14/20 grit and it's too small to stick. It does the job great. |
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Posted: 8/21/2015 10:21:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#47]
I just wanted to add a couple tidbits. I saw a photo of cases on a towel. Don't waste your towel, lay your cases on a couple sheets of old news paper.
On the first page of this thread, the way the cases are laid out in the photo, with necks facing toward you, enough spray will get into the case neck and migrate around the cases without needing a box or bag. Line up your cases, use a ruler to align them (great for OCD  ) Spray the cases with your sprayer at a bit of an angle so some lube is hitting the case neck. Immediately after the spray, I try to roll the cases a half turn and then hit them again. This has worked 100% for me with .223, .300, and .308.
There are labware supply companies that sell chemical resistant bottles and finemist sprayers. Pick up some lube sprayers and get some lubricant applicators for rifle lube (CLP) at the same time to throw in your gun bag. Buy some big spray bottles for your simple green and windex bulk bottles in your garage, since we all know the store bought applicators fall apart in a month or less.
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VA, USA
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Posted: 8/22/2015 7:24:55 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
I tried your method, but didn't have a cardboard box beefy enough to use more than once. -snip- Interestingly enough, if you buy a case of Ramen noodles, the box they come in is perfect for this. Holds a couple hundred cases and will hold up for months. Just enough time to eat another case of that nasty stuff. Can't stand it myself, but my daughter loves it. |
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Posted: 9/29/2016 12:44:15 PM EDT
[#49]
I'm sure it's in here some where, but i haven't seen it addressed.
I tried the lanolin butter. I melted it, and it mixed fine, but the wax settles out. No matter how much i remelt it, the wax settles out, and will gum up any sprayer. Should I just go with the liquid and use the solid lanolin as nipple cream? 
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Posted: 9/29/2016 1:07:09 PM EDT
[#50]
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