This is a bushcraft knife evaluation I conducted....








This post contains the results of my evaluation of a variety of knives for consideration as a "bushcrafter". It was my objective to evaluate the largest number of knives available to me in hopes of identifying the best knife (in the test group) or at least identify features that were desirable in a bushcraft knife.

In all, this test included:

3.5 Hours of pretest evaluation
9.5 Hours of testing
4.0 Hours of post evaluation and testing data compilation

First, I'd like to extend my gratitude to all who loaned one or more knives for this evaluation. Without your participation this couldn't have been nearly as comprehensive. Thank you for the trust and investment! I've elected to not identify who loaned the knives (to protect your anonymity), but you're more than welcome to claim ownership of your knife(s) in this thread! I've scrubbed your knives three times, dried them thoroughly, lubricated the metal and already shipped them back to you. I'll forward the tracking code via a private message later today.

MY DEFINITION OF A BUSHCRAFT KNIFE

Knife selection is as subjective as art appreciation. I like Ford vehicles, and you might prefer something made by Honda. However, an evaluation is worthless without a clearly defined set of parameters by which to judge the product. As such, I define a "bushcraft knife" (BCK hereafter) as:

1) A knife devoted mostly to wilderness and outdoor use, but capable of being used for kitchen type duties as well.

Typical BCK knife chores include activities like: cutting notches in figure-four snares; filleting through wet wood to produce fuzzy or feather sticks for firemarking; skinning game; cutting up snared animal meat for use in the campsite stew pot; camp site detail work like trimming small branches and cutting paracord; general small tasks like opening freeze-dried food pouches; etc. Essentially, the BCK is a smallish detail knife.

2) A small and lightweight companion knife.

The BCK is likely to accompany a larger and more sturdy knife. The larger knife would handle more strenuous tasks such as cutting through the pelvic bone of a whitetail deer, chopping through a limb to make a lean to shelter, etc. This isn't to say the BCK would not be required to perform larger tasks. As with all things wilderness, we often have to improvise.

3) Before the test my definition of the BCK yielded the following general specifications:

DESIGN TYPE: Fixed Blade
BLADE LENGTH: 5" or Less
BLADE THICKNESS: 3/16" or Less
WEIGHT: As Light As Possible

KNIVES AVAILABLE FOR EVALUATION
This is far from a conclusive list of knives worthy of consideration for "bushcrafting", however it is the largest sampling of knives I could assemble in short notice.



Bark River Gunny
ESEE ESEE-5
ESEE ESEE-4
ESEE ESEE-3
Fallkniven S-1
Survive! GSO 4.1
Ontario TAK-1
Busse Combat SAR-5
Busse Combat Boss Street
Swamp Rat RMD
Swamp Rat Vex
Swamp Rat Warden
Scrap Yard Mud Mutt
Scrap Yard S5
Scrap Yard 511 MO (FFG)
Scrap Yard 411
Scrap Yard 311

On to the evaluation!

FIRST IMPRESSIONS
The purpose of the "first impression" component of this evaluation was to develop initial and somewhat subjective opinions about each knife. I spent a minimum of five minutes with each knife, and every knife was weighed using the same equipment (Taylor electronic scale) within a ten minute span of time. I intentionally selected knives randomly as to not form opinions about similar (or exactly the same) features such as handle types.

BUSSE COMBAT SAR-5
Weight = 10.6 oz
Edge = Factory / New

This knife is TOO HEAVY! It also has poor balance due to the unusually large / thick handle. The big and bulky handle makes the balance non-conducive to detail BC work. No matter how I hold it I cannot figure out a way to effectively control the blade.

BUSSE COMBAT BOSS STREET
Weight = 8.8 oz
Edge = Factory / New

This knife is too heavy for the size of the blade. The handle feels a little cramped due to the talon hole. The handle isn't too small, but the shape makes me want to choke up / crowd the blade. I've tried squeezing my hand up toward the blade, but the talon hole guard makes it uncomfortable. Its too handle heavy to be useful for detail work requiring balance. The lack of choil compounds these issues.

SWAMP RAT VEX
]Weight = 7.4 oz
Edge = Factory / New

The handle is TOO SMALL! You have no choice but to use the choil, and the cutting edge cut my finger while just handling the knife. This is also unusually heavy for its size.

ONTARIO TAK
Weight = 10.2 oz
Edge = Unknown

This is HEAVY and has the ergonomics of a 2x4. The choil is just big enough for the tip of my finger. Feels surprisingly controllable considering my initial impressions. The handle is too big for the blade.

SCRAP YARD MUD MUTT
Weight = 5.9 oz
Edge = Factory/New

The "mudder" handle style feels too small for the blade length, and weight. The choil is useless. Overall feels surprisingly light for its blade length. My hand feels cramped on the grip.

ESEE-4 with G10 Grips
Weight 8.0 oz
Edge = Factory / New

The handle feels a little too small, but its 100% functional. The balance is handle heavy, but not exceedingly so. Overall the knife is too heavy for its size. The gimping is nice. I like this knife.

SCRAP YARD 311
Weight = 5.0 oz
Edge = Unknown

The blade is basically uselessly short. The proportion of handle to blade is ridiculous. The choil is useless. The "basic" handle style is not conducive to detail work. I have low expectations for this knife.

FALLKNIVEN S1
Weight = 6.8 oz
Edge = Factory / New

The handle diameter feels too small. This lacks a choil, and I think with a 5" blade it needs one. The handle guard combined with lack of choil makes me think this is going to be hard to use for detail work since choking up will be impossible. Overall feels like it'll lack finesse.

BARK RIVER GUNNY
Weight = 5.8 oz
Edge = Unknown

NICE! No choil, but the design allows closeness to the blade. The gimped thumb ramp is awesome. This is a very comfortable knife! I wish the blade was 3/4" longer.

SCRAP YARD 411
Weight = 6.1 oz
Edge = Factory/New

The popsicle tang makes the balance blade heavy. The choil is cut in a manner that can allow the cutting edge to nick fingers. I like the handle design, and overall design.

SWAMP RAT RMD
Weight = 10.0 oz
Edge = Factory / New

Nice design. This is a comfortable knife that allows multiple holds. Good handle to blade proportions. It does feel heavy compared to some of the other knives.

SCRAP YARD SCRAPPER 5
Weight = 6.8 oz
Edge = Unknown

This feels cramped compared to the RMD. It feels great in the "choked forward / choil detail hold", but not as much in a standard hold. Good balance, and blade design. I like the thumb ramp.

SWAMP RAT WARDEN
Weight = 2.3 oz
Edge = Sharpened by me.

This is basically a useless knife. The handle is a terrible design, and the blade is too short.

SURVIVE! GSO 4.1
Weight = 6.5 oz
Edge = Unknown

I want to choke up on this one. Good handle design, but its a little too thick. This knife needs a choil, and thumb ramp. It has great balance.

SCRAP YARD 511 MO (FFG)
Weight = 6.4 oz
Edge = Unknown

The handle is too small for the blade length. This needs a choil! The balance is weird, and feels "off". This is an unusual knife.

ESEE-5
Weight = 15.4 oz
Edge = Factory / New

THIS IS TOO BIG AND HEAVY!!! This is just too overbuilt. The blade is too thick, and the weight is insane. It has good balance, but would be absolutely worthless as a BC knife. I think this would make a great aircrew survival knife.

ESEE-3
Weight = 5.1 oz
Edge = Factory / New

The blade is too thin. I'm afraid I'm going to break this while sitting in Fort Living Room! This seems like it'd make a good necker with the handle scales removed. I think this would be a good companion knife.

FIRST ROUND (NO USE) ELIMINATIONS
The "first round eliminations" included knives that had readily apparent design flaws and therefore didn't warrant testing. Each eliminated knife's reason for expulsion from the evaluation is listed below.

BUSSE SAR-5
This knife has terrible ergonomics, and is just too heavy for use as a bushcrafter.

BUSSE Boss Street
This knife's weight doesn't justify its 4.25" blade. Weight to blade ratio is a critical factor for me.

SWAMP RAT VEX
I've already cut my fingers with this one so I'm concerned about my safety when I get out into the heat and use it with sweaty hands. It is also way to heavy for a knife with such a small handle.

ESEE-5
BRUISER! This is just too big, heavy, and unwieldy for detail work. She'd probably make a great pry bar.

TESTING PROCEEDURE EXPLAINED
Each knife that made it past the "first round elimination" phase was subjected to the following standardized testing procedure (the order knives were tested in was completely random for each test):

1) Paper Cut - each knife was tasked with slicing, curling, and directional change detail cuts on a single piece of 20# copy paper. This is to establish a base line edge for comparison to the end of testing edge retention.

2) Fuzzy stick - each knife was tasked with skinning equally seasoned wood to produce feather or fuzzy sticks.

3) Firebow divot drill - each knife was tasked with stabbing equally seasoned hardwood, and drilling a divot for use as a firebow divot.

4) Notch cut - each knife was tasked with cutting an equal sized "figure 4 notch" in equally seasoned wood.

5) Mild chopping - each knife was tasked with chopping a small branch of equally seasoned wood.

6) Cable cut - each knife was tasked with cutting an equal number of sections of 0.95 triangular trimmer line. The belly and upswept edge was used for this test.

7) Green trim - each knife was tasked with trimming a sections of green foliage for use as outer debris hut material. One large single branch was used for the evaluation.

8) Wet use test - each knife was soaked in water and then I evaluated the handle's safety while being used with equally wet hands.

9) Peel apple - each knife was tasked with thin peeling an apple. I had a request to fillet fish, but do to cost I was unable to answer this request. I used Gala apples which have a surprisingly similar consistency so this could be construed (LOOSELY) as a "fillet" test.

10) Potato & carrot cut - each knife was tasked with slicing a potato and cold carrots.

11) Squash slice - each knife was tasked with slicing as thinly as possible fresh picked squash.

12) Paper cut - each knife was tasked with slicing, curling, and directional change detail cuts on a single piece of 20# copy paper. This was to serve as a basis of comparison for edge retention.

TESTING RESULTS
Each knife's performance in each test is listed below.

Paper Cut



Scrapper 5 = Struggled at first to cut paper. It has a toothy edge, and isn't as sharp as I'd like.

311 = Good edge and better than expected. The short blade is already showing its limitations. Handle style offers a lot more control than mudder style.

411 = Good edge, and design lends itself well to working detail. The blade weight helps balance tasks.

TAK = Good toothy edge. Design allows detail direction change cutting easy. Surprised how much I like this knife. Blade seems to be dulling already.

ESEE-4 = Blade edge seems thick and somewhat inconsistent. Not as sharp as I was hoping. Good control and change of direction ability.

Warden = Blade is too small for be useful. Not enough to actually test effectively. Edge is okay, but seems thick for size of knife.

Fallkniven S1 = Wow! Best knife so far! Great edge - super impressed with knife. In spite of size this knife allows for great control and cuts paper like butter. Direction change is simple. Not the most comfortable handle.

Mud Mutt = Very sharp, but inconsistent. Thin blade is an asset for this exercise. I'm finding inconsistent edges on all SY knives. The balance of the Mud Mutt is weird.

Gunny = Impressive! Only knife that allowed push cutting limp paper. Good size blade for exercise, and it is SHARP! Direction change was easy. This is handle heavy, but still allowed finesse.

511 MO = This is the second best knife so far. Its tied with the S1. Super consistent sharpness. Cuts paper with ease. Blade length and design (FFG) allow detail work and direction change easily. I like it, but it is decidedly blade heavy. This is growing on me.

GSO 4.1 = Sharp! More difficult to control than I had hoped. Sharp edge, but must work slow and deliberately with this knife due to the handle/blade design. I'm disappointed in this one.

RMD = Edge typical of BKG (except the 511MO). Toothy leaving a raspy cut edge. Heavy knife but weight not noticeable while cutting paper. Hard to get cut started, but good control and detail once moving. Preference for 5" blade is being revealed in this test.

ESEE-3 = Toothy - needs a strop. Very handy blade shape and thickness. Seems useful and can change direction easily.

NOTE: Scrap Yard's knives made "directional change" cuts very difficult.

Fuzzy Stick



Winners: ESEE-4 and S1



Pass: ESEE-3, TAK, Gunny, Warden



Almost Fail (was able to perform task, but with great difficulty): Scrapper 5, RMD



Fail: GSO 4.1, 511MO, 411, 311, Mud Mutt

Fire Bow Divot



Winners: 511MO, TAK, RMD, ESEE-4, Gunny, S1, Warden, ESEE-3



Pass: Scrapper 5, GSO 4.1



Fail: 411, Mud Mutt, 311

Figure 4 Notch Cut



Winners: S1, Gunny



Pass: ESEE-3, Warden, 511MO, TAK, RMD, ESEE-4



Fail: GSO 4.1, Scrapper 5, 411, 311, Mud Mutt

Mild Chopping



Winners: RMD, TAK, 511MO



Pass: S1, ESEE-4, Scrapper 5



Fail: GSO 4.1, Warden, 411, ESEE-3, Gunny, Mud Mutt, 311

Cable Cut



Winners: ESEE-3, RMD, GSO 4.1, Mud Mutt, S1



Pass: 411, 311, Warden, Scrapper 5, TAK, ESEE-4, 511 MO, Gunny

Fail: None.

Green Trim



Winners: ESEE-4, 511 MO, S1



Pass: Scrapper 5, Warden, TAK, 311, Gunny, Mud Mutt



Fail: 411, RMD, GSO 4.1, ESEE-3

Wet Use Test



Winners: 411, TAK, Scrapper 5, S1, 311, Mud Mutt, 511 MO



Pass: RMD, GSO 4.1, ESEE-4, ESEE-3, Gunny



Fail: Warden

Apple Peel



Pass: TAK, RMD, Warden, Gunny, ESEE-3



Fail: ESEE-4, S1, Scrapper 5, 511 MO, 311, 411, Mud Mutt, GSO 4.1

Carrot Cut



Winners: S1, TAK



Pass: 511 MO, RMD, Gunny, ESEE-4, ESEE-3, GSO 4.1, Warden



Fail: 411, Scrapper 5, 311, Mud Mutt

Potato Slice



Winners: S1, TAK, Gunny

Fail: All others failed to slice thinly!

Squash Slice



Winners: Gunny, TAK, S1, ESEE-3



Pass: Mud Mutt, RMD, GSO 4.1, Warden, Scrapper 5, 311, 411, ESEE-4, 511 MO

Final Edge Retention Paper Cut



Winners: S1, Scrapper 5, 311, 511 MO



Fail: All others failed in some capacity. Some were dull enough to tear paper without cutting it.

FINAL VERDICT & LESSONS LEARNED
This test yielded some very surprising results, but before I mention those I'd like to make some general comments about the features I determined make for a good bushcraft knife.

General Comments

I found that a 5" full flat ground blade is about ideal. I also found that convex edges are excellent. Both of these findings are consistent with previous testing I've conducted. I also found that blades shorter than 4" severely hamper the usefulness of the knife.

Blade Steel

SR101 was the best overall steel for edge retention. However, the typical Busse Combat Group thick edge / blade design severely hampers their knife's ability to handle detail type work. BKG would be well served by thinning the edges of their excellent steel.

A2 performed very well with a convex edge, but couldn't retain nearly as well as SR101.

Laminated VG10 is an outstanding steel on par with SR101, but there was only one Lam VG10 in this test.

Handle Material

Res-C is remarkable when wet. It actually works BETTER wet than dry in terms of safety retention. Micarta is very good while wet, but outstanding when slightly wet. Micarta benefits from aggressive texture when dry.

Knife Specific Comments

Regarding Bark River - I think the Gunny would be my "runner up" knife in this test. Had the blade been 3/4" longer it would be in the winner circle.

Regarding the Ontario TAK - I was surprised by this knife. My expectations were exceedingly low. However, it outperformed many higher priced knives, and would have scored as a "best buy" had it been able to retain an edge. Unfortunately, this one failed miserably at edge retention.

WINNERS & LOSERS

The biggest disappointment in this evaluation was the GSO 4.1. I had the highest hopes for this knife, and it absolutely performed abysmally overall. At one point I almost stopped using it for fear of injury. I was soaked with sweat, and during the bow divot test I had my hand slip up on the cutting edge as a stabbed the knife into seasoned hardwood. I literally cannot stress how disappointing this knife was.

The two "winners" surprised me beyond belief. Ironically these are the only two knives I almost excluded from the entire evaluation based upon the commentary to follow....

The Scrap Yard 511MO looks like a weird and awkward design. When the offer to borrow it came in I, at first, rejected it, but after some consideration accepted the offer. I cannot be happier that I did. This knife had OUTSTANDING edge retention, and capability. It is without a doubt the far-and-away best Scrap Yard knife I've ever used.

The Fallkniven S1 was almost excluded because I had several people tell me the VG10 edge would be too fragile for this evaluation. I've had VG10 chip on Spyderco knives, but I elected to test this one anyway. I AM SO GLAD I DID. The S1 is a remarkable knife with incredibly useful capabilities. Its edge retention was only bested by the 511MO's. Overall, I declare Fallkniven Laminated VG10 more than up to the challenge of bushcrafting.

Both the 511MO and S1 were treated to a "his and hers" fillet mignon meal at the conclusion of 9.5 hours of field use. Without any touch up the knives sliced through the steak like it was warm butter....




I'm keeping the RMD (and thinning the edge considerably) and S1. All of the other knives I provided for this test are being sold.

This concludes the evaluation.

Very cool thank you for taking the time to do this. The fallkniven seems like a real nice blade. The esee 4 sounds like it performed well and would be a high value knife.

Thank you for doing the review. I was in the market for a "nice" fixed blade around 4", and chose a Bradford Guardian 4. I wanted a Busse/ Swamp rat/ Scrapyard, and I'm glad I read your review. The busse- made knives didn't seem to perform as well as I expected.


Thanks again for taking the time to do this and sharing your findings.

Good review and thank you for doing it.

I've owned Busse knives and sold them all.  Too expensive to use, needed major edge profiling to be useful.  Good for collecting and chopping.

Great review.  I think Fallkniven often gets overlooked because they're not in the tac/ops advertising loop, but them Swedes know their steel and they know how to forge knives.

No S1 here but my F1 is a fine blade.

I wish you'd had a TOPS BOB to test in there. I've heard good things about Falkniven knives for quite some time now.  There used to be a guy on Youtube that did torture tests on popular knives. When I say torture I mean nearly snuff films. Chopped everything even bricks, beat on them with hammers, and usually didn't quit until the knife was destroyed. The two that survived the best was the old style SOG Navy SEAL 2000, (before they redesigned it and made it into junk) and the Falkniven F1. I have the oldstyle SOG, and I'm plotting on the Falkniven.

You're welcome.

Busse, Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard ship their knives with very "thick edges".  If you spend some time with one thinning the edge - they have amazing steel.  The Scrap Yard MO that made it to the "winner's circle" was reprofiled.

The quality of Busse steel was evident based upon the edge retention.  Where Busse fails is blade geometry.  This really only applies to "detail" or "bushcraft" or "light use" purposes...they made great "choppers" or "hard abuse" knives.

You're welcome.  I agree about their factory edge.  I've had a bunch and they generally suck unless "BEEF" does the grind work.  The designs (blade thickness and other geometry) are generally too thick for any finesse work.  You said it best..."good for chopping".

I almost didn't include the Fallkniven in the test, because people told me the blade would chip.  The test knife was nothing short of awesome.

I think you're talking about NOS (wore a hockey mask).  He's the reason I bought my first Busse back around 2007.  After watching him BEAT a Busse held in a vice by the tip of the blade...with a SLEDGE HAMMER I was convinced.

I still have Busse products, but all except for a couple are "collectors".  I do like my Swamp Rat Rodent 6 (it hangs on my battle belt in case I need to cut a car in half ).

No experience with TOPS.  I would have gladly included one had it been available to me.

An important note:

This test was about "bushcrafting" knives.  I don't think this is Busse's niche.  As mentioned above, I carry a Swamp Rat on my battle belt because I could literally beat it into a concrete wall and stand on it if I needed to do so.  However, it really isn't a good "knife".  Its more of a sharpened pry bar.

I'm actually thinking of selling all of my Busse knives except the Rodent 6.  I just don't have need for "choppers".

Very nice review, thought the esses knives would hold up better

Thanks. ESEE are really popular knives (I'd guess mostly because of the warranty, nice sheath and price point).  For the money they are a good knife, but my eval revealed there are better options (for bushcrafting).  I expected the more expensive knives with "more exotic" (i.e. not 1095) blade materials to have better edge retention.

ETA: The ESEE 3 was a personal favorite prior to the eval.

That Falkniven sure looks like a Cold Steel SRK.

Very good point - thank you.

Busse products do not include a sheath so I'm use to sourcing a $50 custom kydex.

The ESEEs had the best factory sheathes.

The Bark River has a FUDD leather sheath.

The TAK came with a sheath you'd expect a knife in that price range to include.

The S1 had the factory plastic (kydex??) sheath option.  It was a typical of European plastic sheathes.  Stronger than they look, but still a weak point.

I have custom sheathes made for all of my knives unless it's going on a battle belt.  I use SPECOPs Combat Masters on MOLLE belts.

The S1 blade profile / geometry is very similar but a little more svelt.

I didn't include a Cold Steel based upon previous tests of their products.  I had wildly varying results from Cold Steel and as a result no longer own any.

I like busse knives, but your criticisms are spot on.  Their edges suck from the factory.  But their steel is superb.  I have spent upwards of 6 hours reprofiling one of their knives (BGTG) because the edge was essentially a 90 degree angle that while capable of cutting......was nowhere near useful.

I'm surprised you liked the 511 so much, most people feel that is one of the weaker offerings by SYKCO (they hate the handle size, mostly).  I have one, and I sort of feel the same (but I have large hands).  

Yes, Busse knives are expensive.......but they aren't "too expensive to use" unless you are buying INFI and looking for a sought-after model.  They are backed by a lifetime warranty, no questions asked, if you can break it they will fix/replace it......no matter what you do with it (only caveat being that trying to break it on purpose - NOS style).  They had a guy bend a boss jack by driving it into a chainsaw cut and using it like a pry bar to get his saw out, and they fixed that one, for example.

Also, the "users" fetch almost as much as the pristine "collector grade" versions.  And if you want it to look less like a user, strip it.....busse collectors don't seem to mind, and certain designs are so sought after that they will increase in value, regardless if you use them or not.

FWIW, my field bag has a Rodent 6 in it.  Last week, I used it to chop a tree limb off of a road I needed to get  up......when my work chainsaw failed to start (it's now in the saw shop).

I do have knives I like to use more than my busse knives though.......I will go further and say their entire blade is too thick which limits their usefulness for some tasks, and are less pleasurable to carry compared to some of my custom blades of similar blade length.

I pretty much agree with everything you said.

I have several Busse with INFI steel which is a novel blade material, but the cost-to-performance ratio really isn't there.  I liken Busse INFI vs Busse/Swamp Rat/Scrap Yard SR101 to Ford Mustang Shelby GT500 Super Snake vs Ford Mustang Shelby GT500.  Do you really need more than 662 (regular GT500) horsepower and how much premium are you will to pay to get it?  The only INFI blades I have left in my stash are ASH-1 LE (0.22"); ASH-1 Skinny (0.187") and NMSFNO.  All of my other Busses and Swamp Rats are SR101.  I don't have any Scrap Yards left.

The 511 was the MO version (not the standard version) and had a FFG.  My hands aren't huge so I don't have a problem with the "basic" handle style.  HOWEVER, even with my average sized hands I feel cramped so the common criticism that that style of handle is too small is probably accurate (especially for those with Mickey Mouse proportioned hands).

I've pestered Dan Busse about making a thinner blade option for years, and has never responded.  I'd like to see a Yard Keeper profile / thickness made of SR101 with a mudder grip.  That would be an imminently useful knife.  However, the Busse family is obviously much more interested in offering completely useless (to me) stuff now.  Some of the recent designs are just .  I'm not a collector...so crap like the "Garth Edition" made me want to vomit.  How arrogant do you need to be to etch your tattoo into a knife and sell it like it something special.  BUSSE if you're listening...WTF?  I've met Garth and he's a nice guy, but he's not some sort of hero worth noting / immortalizing.  If you feel compelled to etch something into your blades...why not the Spartan shield of Thermopylae or something RELEVANT!

Got a review on larger field knives? 6" and up?

Yep.

The Busses I have are:

Battle Grade Team Gemini (it's just a bad ass, iconic knife design that feels great in the hand).

SW Rodent 6.  It's a nice knife, but I really think it would be much better if the FFG was thinner but left the spine the same thickness as it is now.

Scrapyard parked hollow grind regulator.  Probably my favorite of the bunch as it's cutting edge is thinner.  I also LOVE the Res-C handle in the design of that knife.  Feels great, balances great, very usable blade shape.

SYKCO 511.  Not the FFG version, but if I ever get a belt sander it will be.  The way it's built, the way it feels in the hand.....it would be much better about 1/3rd thinner at the spine, bigger choil and FFG.  It would balance better, it would cut WAY better, and the handle size would actually be a boon as a more maneuverable knife rather than being a miniature bruiser. 

I have eval'd larger knives.  It was a long time ago.  If I come across the info I'll post it.

I had an INFI Team gemini.  I regret selling it.

I extensively tested / used a Regulator over a fourteen month period.  The only complaint I had was it needed another 1.5" of blade length.  My uncle has that knife now.  It's hanging on his field gear.

Maybe it's time to do it again then? With newer offerings? 

What do you have to send me for testing?

Honestly not enough to do a comprehensive test, maybe some others will ante up to make it interesting? The newest big blade I have is a Tahoma Field knife. An old style SOG Tigershark, an RD-7, and an ESEE 6. The SOG has since been redesigned into a cheap shadow of it's former self so I'm not sure if that would be fair to test.

I can tell you the RD-7 is not the same quality as when Justin was making them. The 5160 is brittle and lacks edge rentention.

The ESEE 6 is commiserate with its price point.  They also lack edge retention.

I don't have experience with the SOG Tigershark.

To be blunt, Busse (Busse Combat, Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard) outclass most competitors in the hard use 6"+ field knife category.

REGARDING 6" PLUS SURVIVAL / FIELD / COMBAT KNIVES


I've tested $400+ knives against $150 Scrap Yards and $600 Busses...and everything in between.  

The Busse family's "sharpened pry bars" are the strongest, most abuse resistant options with the best edge retention.

As previously mentioned - they come from Ohio with an obtuse edge grind that just plain sucks.  However, once you put your own edge profile on a Busse ... you aren't likely to have that knife fail in the "hard use" or "combat" or "chopper" role they were designed for.

The Tigershark is an XL version of the SEAL 2000. I got mine in 2007, and the blade was the same quality at the SEAL I biight in 94. The handle was made from a softer compound. The SEAL could be used to drive nails the Tigershark was too soft for that. I've had the SEAL for 23 years now and it's still a tough knife even by today's standards.

It's really a damn shame how SOG cheapened their designs. The new stuff is cheap garbage that I do not even consider buying. The two SOGs I have I would never sell though. 

I've had a couple of Seal "Pups" over the years.  One was SEKI and one might not have been IIRC.  The SEKI knife was decent, but the edge rolled.

Unfortunately it's not just SOG.  So many knife makers have "sold out" to "race to the bottom pricing".  I remember when Gerber produced solid knives.  Remember the original LMF?  Cold Steel is another.  Camillus, original Beckers, etc.

There are few quality knives made in America now.

If I were looking for a budget US knife I'd buy an ESEE.

Even the ESEE vs RAT deal is an example.

I just need to bump and say excellent review.  I know that you put an enormous amount of time and effort into doing this and this is an example of how to properly do a comparative evaluation; well done.  I own several of those you tested and your findings are similar to mine.  My SR101 is a Ratmandu, but I have a couple customs that have really taken over from most of my semi-custom and production blades.

ROCK6

Thanks Rock.  I appreciate the kind words.

Thanks for taking the time to test and document the results.  I wonder how a San Mai or Carbon V cold steel SRK would have fared.

Agreed for the most part.  The KaBar beckers are still decent for what you pay for them, and KaBar does a decent job with 1095CV.  Are they as good as ESEE?  No, but they also run about 1/2 the cost thereabouts for the same knife.  For someone who wants to get a decent knife on an extreme budget, I'd say that they are probably the best bang for the buck for a decently sized full tang.  Full tang, decent steel, decent HT.  I'd wager that the 1095CV in the becker line is better done than RATs HT on 1095, but not as good as Rowen's HT on ESEEs 1095.

I have an Ontario Rat3 and it's a good knife in design, but the steel is nowhere as well treated as the ESEE 6 I had and sold because I was stupid and got a DE version.  Had I got the single edged version, I'd have kept it.  

I agree though, if you want a good USA made production knife, ESEE should be at the very top of your list.  Especially the Esee 6.  It's got a classic blade shape, isn't too thick, and is well balanced.

I tested Carbon V in the past, and wasn't impressed.  I'm not a CS fan overall.  Too many reports of broken-at-hilt and poor edge retention (which was my complaint).

Fla556guy,

I've had quite a few Beckers (probably a dozen) spanning back to the Camillus days.  They're good for people who won't spend for a better knife.  ESEE is a better option (I've had well over a dozen ESEE).  Both lack edge retention.

My gear mindset is to spend as needed to achieve a certain minimum performance level.  I'm willing to sacrifice in other areas of my life to pay for this.  I'm not advocating $800+ customs, but $200 for a knife is not "too expensive" IMO especially if it appreciates in value.  All Becker and ESEE knives are straight run production commodities and decrease in value as a result. Look at used Scrap Yard and Swamp Rat values.  They increase.

tag for readin'

Good review, but I must ask why no Scandi ground knives were included in a bushcraft test?

I tested what I had on hand and available to me.

Oh, I agree 100%.

So far, I have:

SYKCO Hollow ground, parked regulator(SR-77), 511(SR-101)
Swamprat:  Rodent 6 (SR-101
Busse: Battle Grade TG(SR-101), Dog Soldier (INFI, on order)
(unknown knives in a $250 grab bag on order).

I hope you score something awesome!  I ordered a BG FBM.

Ditto for me.  The F1 is a great knife.  

Thanks for taking the time to put this together.

I went for a DS.  Was cheap for INFI (I've never tried it, and I'm curious) and I love Res-C.  Same basic blade shape as a TG-M, which I like.

The FBM was a sweet offering.  Did you see the A2 Team Gemini that's going to be offered as the 35th anniversary blade?  1/4" thick and A2 tool steel (Busse's original steel choice).