Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Page Armory » Blades
Posted: 9/19/2016 9:47:22 PM EDT
So I just got a TOPS BOB. Judging by the price I paid it was made from 1095. Looking around later I see it can also be had in 154CM. Costs a bit more but is it worth it, or a toss up?
Link Posted: 9/19/2016 10:03:14 PM EDT
[#1]
carbon steel is hard to beat if you can take care of it
Link Posted: 9/19/2016 11:11:26 PM EDT
[#2]
They  are completely different types of steels. The only steels I will pay premium for are A2 or CPM3V. If i cant get that then Ill stick with high carbon.

I don't do stainless.
Link Posted: 9/20/2016 9:18:03 AM EDT
[#3]
If you value toughness over corrosion resistance get the 1095, otherwise get the 154CM.
Link Posted: 9/27/2016 12:45:18 PM EDT
[#4]
I've worked with both steels as a hobby knife maker.     I think 154cm is a great steel for a folder and the CPM154 version is flat out awesome.  However in a hard use fixed blade I'd prefer the 1095.
Your obvious difference is one is stainless the other is not.    I was one a steel snob but now that I've been able to test I appreciate the high end stuff but don't think it's needed in the way some people would make you think.
    The heat treat and tempering to the proper hardness for the intended task is what makes or breaks a great tool.       I have love and appreciation for the CPM3V and CPM M4 but I generally use 52100,5160 and my personal favorite 1084.
 I make big choppers including large kitchen knives and hunting knives.   1084 takes a wicked sharp edge holds it reasonably  good time. It is super easy " quick" to sharpen and can take serious abuse. ( used in quite a few axe bits)
There are a bunch of people who would dismiss it because its touted as a great  beginner steel for a bladesmith but it really is great stuff.  Your 1095 is pretty much the same deal.    

    I really enjoy the selection that is out there despite the trendy gotta have it marketing. However  It's hard to go wrong with a good old carbon steel providing you don't mind a little extra care.
Link Posted: 9/27/2016 9:51:34 PM EDT
[#5]
I'll stick with 1095. Probably had too much fun using French's mustard to put a patina on the exposed section of the blade but it was a earning experience. I cut a toothpick in half and then coated the non-tapered end to put the mustard on. Touch the toothpick to the mustard then carefully laid it down on the steel. When I lifted it it would leave a strait line that wasn't globby. I made a decent criss cross pattern on it.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Page Armory » Blades
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top