Use a file guide to get the plunges even. You can overhang the edge of the belt off the wheel with 220 grit J flex run slow after heat treat to round the plunge if you like that look. You'll want to stop the plunge short so you can bump it back after heat treating. Break the edges of the belt with a piece of steel first.
You can flat sand the blade on a granite surface plate to clean up your mistake at the top of the grind. A magnet and a figure eight pattern on the platen also works. Your edge looks pretty thick still. I go to dime thickness before heat treating. It's not a big deal when you have power tools. You run the risk of over heating the steel and ruining the temper when you do a lot of grinding after heat treat. You'll ruin a few and figure it out where that point is pretty quick.
When approaching the wheel use light pressure and have the edge hit first then lay the hollow onto the wheel. That will help keep you from missing the groove and climbing over the top of your grind.
Your right side plunge (left plunge in pic 3) needs to come in a little. This means your not holding the blade flat against the wheel when working at the plunge. The tang was kicked out a little, put your support hand thumb close to the plunge. In general, you want to see sparks coming off the whole width of the belt. I'm guessing you're right handed and it's not uncommon for it to take some practice to feel comfortable using your left hand. I prefer to start beveling with my left hand because it's easier for me to match that grind using my right hand.
It's a pet peeve of mine to not be able to sharpen the entire blade so you could use a chainsaw file to cut in a notch if you'd like.
That's a pretty respectable grind for your first knife.