User Panel
Compooters are hardddd. I much prefer banging on hot semi-malleable steel for hours on end
Cool stuff OP |
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Very, very cool work. I like that camp knife design. Nice and hefty
What kind of parts do you normally make with those machines? |
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Everything from MATV or JLTV parts to forestry equipment to commercial HVAC stuff. And a lot of in between.
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I'm taking that guy camping in the Boundary Waters this weekend, I'll put it to some use.
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very pretty knife, hope you can get a sheath that does it justice.
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Actually the color looks good, you can call it your stealth coating.
Whatever happened to the first couple of knives you made that were in the jigs up at the top? How did they turn out? |
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Quoted: Actually the color looks good, you can call it your stealth coating. Whatever happened to the first couple of knives you made that were in the jigs up at the top? How did they turn out? View Quote I finished one and gave it to a co-worker, and fell out of love with the design. I still have a pile I could finish, but I've had so much interest in that field knife that I've been focusing on that aside from whatever bug I get in my ass to try something new. |
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Sweet blades!
You definitely have skills and talent in your work. Your logo also kicks ass! I'd run the other way seeing you coming at me with a frozen fish. |
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Quoted:
Sweet blades! You definitely have skills and talent in your work. Your logo also kicks ass! I'd run the other way seeing you coming at me with a frozen fish. View Quote Haha. Thank you very much. That was a rough night. We were in the BCWA camping, mid January. Around 4:30 it was getting dark and we were playing cards and eating supper when we heard the ''crunch crunch'' of snowshoes, which was really odd. It was one of the guys from the resort we parked our vehicles at. My friends family had got a hold of them because of a family medical emergency so he hiked in to notify us. Friend hiked out with him to call home. While they were gone the rest of us assumed the worst so we broke camp and packed up. We humped everything out in pitch dark to the nearest non-BCAW lake and the folks at the resort shuttled us the rest of the way on their snowmobiles, but only had room for 3 per trip. So I volunteered to go last and ended up sitting waiting sweaty from the hike in -20f for an hour for the sled to get back. We picked the coldest week of the year to go, on accident, and that was the only fish we caught. I didn't dare pack it away for fear of damaging the fins because of how they froze, so it was handy for the photo that really captured how I felt that night like no other, lol. |
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Quoted:
Oh, also, here's my makers mark finally http://i66.tinypic.com/33ymbs9.jpgYep, that's me. Yep, that's a fish. From a different Boundary Waters trip. A cold one. http://i64.tinypic.com/r0r33m.jpg View Quote Love it |
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That bowie really shows some skill! It's definitely a looker, that's for sure.
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Tagged for top shelf shank work.
My kid is proud when he makes one out of an old file or lawnmower blade. |
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oops....meant to start my own thread on this......I just copied and pasted it....my bad.
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What do you use to attach the scales with, I take it that it's waterproof.
Is it easier to use the smaller clamps or a couple larger ones? |
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Whenever I do permanent handles I glue up with system 3 t-88 epoxy. It's water proof and stupid strong. The tensile shear strength changes with the materials but most joints are over 1250 psi. It also take dye well. Really great product.
I use the little spring clamps because I want even pressure across the scale so it doesn't flex also I don't want so much pressure that all the epoxy is squeezed out of the joint. If you do that it's guaranteed to fail eventually, even if it's pinned. I just put scales on the top knife there and use no clamps because they are attached with Corby bolts so they provide the clamping force. They are the perfect scale fastener in my opinion. Strong, seamless, accurate in locating. |
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In the detail photo that shows the scratches how do you get those smoothed out? I got a knife kit from my wife and decided to go for a polished finish. I can see my reflection at this point from using different sandpapers but there are a number of scratches like in your photo that seem to be too much for sandpaper.
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Like the close up of my logo?
It's just sanding with a hard backer. Typically on a hand sanded knife I'll start at 150 grit with a hard sanding block, and quickly it looks like all the scratches are gone. Then I go to 220 and pow I see scratches again that I couldn't see before. If they are not to deep I'll stay at 220 until they're gone, if not I'll go back to 150. After I can't see any at 220 I jump to 500, and I try to sand across the grain from the direction I sanded at 220. This makes the 220 scratches really pop out and I sand until they are gone. Then 800 across the grain of 500 until the 500 scratches are gone. Whenever they are not coming out, I step back down to a lower grit. After 800 if I want a nice satin finish, I step back to 600 grit and sand with the length of the knife in one direction only until the swirls from back and forth at 800 are gone. If it's going to be a polish, I take it to 1200 and etch, then polish. Long story short stay sanding with a hard block until the scratches are gone and change directions to make them easier to see. I only use a soft sanding block on the final grit whatever it may be for that knife. Use wd40 as lube to carry swarf away. Remember you aren't sanding scratches, you're bringing everything else down to their level. My last bit of advice, buy good sandpaper, rhynowet red is the best I've found and use it like it's free. As soon as it loses its bite, move along or you're wasting time. |
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Quoted:
Like the close up of my logo? It's just sanding with a hard backer. Typically on a hand sanded knife I'll start at 150 grit with a hard sanding block, and quickly it looks like all the scratches are gone. Then I go to 220 and pow I see scratches again that I couldn't see before. If they are not to deep I'll stay at 220 until they're gone, if not I'll go back to 150. After I can't see any at 220 I jump to 500, and I try to sand across the grain from the direction I sanded at 220. This makes the 220 scratches really pop out and I sand until they are gone. Then 800 across the grain of 500 until the 500 scratches are gone. Whenever they are not coming out, I step back down to a lower grit. After 800 if I want a nice satin finish, I step back to 600 grit and sand with the length of the knife in one direction only until the swirls from back and forth at 800 are gone. If it's going to be a polish, I take it to 1200 and etch, then polish. Long story short stay sanding with a hard block until the scratches are gone and change directions to make them easier to see. I only use a soft sanding block on the final grit whatever it may be for that knife. Use wd40 as lube to carry swarf away. Remember you aren't sanding scratches, you're bringing everything else down to their level. My last bit of advice, buy good sandpaper, rhynowet red is the best I've found and use it like it's free. As soon as it loses its bite, move along or you're wasting time. View Quote Didn't mean to hijack the thread but thank you. I had been using just my finger or a sanding sponge behind the sandpaper. I cut a small dowel at a roughly 45 degree angle, that plus dropping to a 120 grit where I my lowest previously had been a 220 made all the difference. |
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