Ok,
So I want to become proficient at sharpening my knives, but every system I get disappoints.  I have a work sharp, King stones, and a lanky and none of them really seem to do the job I want.
So, is a apex edge pro fool proof for getting a razor edge?  I really want an edge that will rival a benchmade or spyderco factory edge.

Thanks for info, in advance

You don't need a new knife sharpener, you need to hone your personal skills first. Any one of those systems should be able to get you a factory edge or better. Go watch jdavis882's sharpening videos on Youtube. I didn't know how to sharpen any knives as of 2 years ago, now I can use just about any system and get a razor sharp edge. In fact, most of the time the edge is sharper than factory.

Pro tip: use a sharpie to mark the edge bevel, make a few passes on a stone or whatever sharpening system you're using, and see where you stand. After you watch some of jdavis' videos, come back to this thread and ask any questions you may have.

I personally use a spyderco sharpmaker now because it's more consistent than I was at freehanding an edge, and because when I sharpen other people's knives I don't want to mess them up lol. At the same time, I started on just a DMT diamond stone and I was able (and still am able) to get quick, super sharp edges on it in just a few minutes.

Best of luck!

If you truly mean "for idiots", it goes like this:

1.  Buy a Kershaw.
2.  Send it back to them every time you need it sharpened, they'll do it for free.

Otherwise, sharpening is 95% just holding the correct angle, and holding it consistently.  Work on that, and it'll happen.

Lansky with diamond stones is the best setup I've seen.  Buddy had it and could get our deer knives shaving sharp.

If you want small and simple, a smiths sharpener will get an edge. Its the ceramic cross sticks in a plastic hand.  It takes alot of strokes to cut the edge but once its there it is easily repeatable.  Alot of sharpeners out there but for 10.00 bucks you have one at home and one in a glove box .  These are great for a BOB and just plain idiot proof.  GF uses one in the kitchen to touch up knifes. My filet knife has one built in the case.  And the sharpie to the bevel is a great tip and very useful ,  Gives you the visual aid to insure you are making progress and where more work is needed.   I have lanskey, several sticks, handled diamond  stones,  and several arkansas wetstones,  and a few others. The smith is easiest, most compact,

I've got a Lansky system that I like for simple blades, but I am nervous to try it on my ZT 0350. I'm worried the stones are too wide for the recurve.

I'm surprised that you can't get a good edge with the work sharp.

I do all my sharpening on a Kalamazoo 1X42 belt sander and can get any blade arm shaving sharp without too much trouble.

I have heard that people are getting similar results with with the work sharp.

Do you have enough quality belts in enough different levels of abrasiveness?

Are you sure that you are getting to the point a raising a burr each time before you change to a finer grit belt?

Do you  have a leather belt or some other way to strop the edge as a final step?

I am not an expert by any means and am still learning all the time.

Usually, when I am having trouble getting to the point of raising a burr, I am not using a course enough belt or I am off on the angle.

Marking the blade edge with a sharpie will usually show me what I am doing wrong.

You may need a good magnifying glass to see the edge.

One thing that helped me learn to use the belt sander was to get some cheap knives (got some at goodwill for a buck or two each) and really practiced.

Since they were cheap I didn't have to worry about screwing them up.

I would love to learn how to use stones freehand or get one of the guided systems but......

I don't really enjoy sharpening and time is always an issue.

With my belt sander I can sharpen fast and as long as I use the correct belts to start with I don't have to worry about over heating the edge.

I had an Edge Pro Apex, but it often resulted in rolled edges because there is no clamping system. I replaced it with a Wicked Edge system and it works great. It truly is idiot proof and yields fantastic edges.

This is an old knife that I found in some of my dad's stuff and recently cleaned up and then sharpened on my belt sander.

It was in bad condition and extremely dull with a rough edge.

Now it is shaving sharp and has a nice polished edge.

And I am not all that skilled.

I think your fears are founded.  My experience with the Lansky system is that it works poorly on longer blades or blades that have a recurve or belly.  
Re-clamping helps, but then you have the issue of the separate areas overlapping and taking off extra metal in the overlap.  This is the main reason I switched to the Work Sharp system.  

I keep seeing the Work Sharp being recommended. Simple to use? I looked at one locally, but it concerns me slightly too. That probably stems from my lack of knowledge. Which part of the blade would you put against the guide with a bade like the 0350? Or, does the manual cover that?

I have not used a work sharp but I do sharpen on a belt sander.

I would take the guide off and do it free hand. It's not that hard to do with a little practice.

Some of the best, inexpensive "stones" I have ever used are the DMT diamond stones sold by Amazon and many others.  The W6EP will keep a fine edge on working knives and surgical steel chefs knives and will clean them up very quickly.  They make coarser grits if you are starting out rough, and there is also a Taidea 5000 grit that will give you a razors edge if need be.  

I have been able to throw an edge on a knife since I wasn't old enough to drink beer.  The angle will come to you after doing the stroke several thousand times.  

I used a Lansky that my brother had and it is a fucking joke.  I am lucky I didn't lose a limb with that piece of shit.  I can't believe they still sell them.  They should ship with a suture kit and a unit of blood.

There are many versions of diamond hones on the market and I am sure they all work very well.  The price point and the grit are the decision makers for you.  

I used a Chefs Choice Edgecrafter M420 for many years.  After getting your edge on, the fine grit is all you need.  This is a field portable unit with three grit inserts.  I have used this to narrow auto glass for custom fitting, and have cleaned up chips on porcelain bowls, glassware, etc.  After about 15 years of keeping a drawer full of knives sharp, the fine grit attachment was getting worn, and that is when I picked the DMT.  I would have gone with it instead, but my wholesaler did not carry them at the time.

Ken Onion sharpener

One of the best kept secrets in the Blade world..