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Posted: 9/24/2015 11:16:04 PM EDT
I have two older machetes that the plastic handles/grips are breaking and would like to make new ones.  I don't want a wooden handle, I would like to make one like whats on the ESEE knives. Is that possible?  If so what do I need to get and is there any step by step to do it?  Thanks guys.


Instead of starting a new thread I figured I would use this one as it does pertain to the work I will be doing.  After I get the machete sandblasted how do I go about sharping the blade? Put an edge on it first then tape off the edge then cerakote it or paint the whole thing first then put an edge on it?  I'll be using the the oven cure cerakote if that matters. Thanks again guys.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 1:34:02 AM EDT
[#1]
I found some scrap micarda at work and made a new handle for my BK6.  It was a lot of work.  The dust off of micarda is nasty.  Just glue it together unless you have a higher end 'Chet.  Or make one out of wood.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 2:03:07 AM EDT
[#2]
Just buy a block of micarta and cut to shape then sand. Then drill and countersink for bolts.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 7:37:41 AM EDT
[#3]
Thanks guys.  I didn't know I could buy a block of it.  Is it hard to shape?
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 8:04:18 AM EDT
[#4]
It's not "hard" to shape.  But it may be time consuming depending on what tools you have available to shape it.  If you go with micarta keep in mind you can burn it if you get it to hot while shaping.  It is also nasty stuff so wear a mask when grinding it.  I do my shaping at 120 grit then sandblast.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 9:15:20 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
It's not "hard" to shape.  But it may be time consuming depending on what tools you have available to shape it.  If you go with micarta keep in mind you can burn it if you get it to hot while shaping.  It is also nasty stuff so wear a mask when grinding it.  I do my shaping at 120 grit then sandblast.
View Quote

What do you recommend to use for shaping it? I have a woodshop and I'm a mechanic so I have an array of tools available.  Why do you finish with sandblasting?  I'll make sure I'm very careful not to burn it and wear a mask.  Thanks
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 11:15:10 AM EDT
[#6]
Just want to second the part about wearing a mask. In all reality a respirator is better. Micarta particles/dust/whatever are really fine and hang in the air and can be really hard on your lungs. Supposedly the phenolic resin used to make micarta has formaldehyde base.

No need to shy away from micarta, but just make sure you're properly protected.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 11:25:46 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Just want to second the part about wearing a mask. In all reality a respirator is better. Micarta particles/dust/whatever are really fine and hang in the air and can be really hard on your lungs. Supposedly the phenolic resin used to make micarta has formaldehyde base.

No need to shy away from micarta, but just make sure you're properly protected.
View Quote

I have a respirator I use when I paint cars so that should be good enough, right.  The blocks of micarta I have found are only $30-40 is that price right? Seems kinda cheap.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 3:49:33 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I have a respirator I use when I paint cars so that should be good enough, right.  The blocks of micarta I have found are only $30-40 is that price right? Seems kinda cheap.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just want to second the part about wearing a mask. In all reality a respirator is better. Micarta particles/dust/whatever are really fine and hang in the air and can be really hard on your lungs. Supposedly the phenolic resin used to make micarta has formaldehyde base.

No need to shy away from micarta, but just make sure you're properly protected.

I have a respirator I use when I paint cars so that should be good enough, right.  The blocks of micarta I have found are only $30-40 is that price right? Seems kinda cheap.



$40 seems a little on the high side, though it's not unheard of. All depends on how intricate you want to get with the "look" of your scales (handles).

USA Knifemaker is a pretty legit supplier with a pretty wide selection of micarta.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 4:25:29 PM EDT
[#9]
I commend you for your desire to repair your tools. You are aware you can get an awesome Tramotina for about 15 bucks, right?
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 9:48:00 PM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:
I commend you for your desire to repair your tools. You are aware you can get an awesome Tramotina for about 15 bucks, right?
View Quote

Thank you. It's hard to find a great machete and a new handle will make it even better.

I haven't looked into the Tramotina machetes.  I will though but I have bought a few and none have been as useful and well balanced as the ones I want to fix up.  I just wish I could find out who made them.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 11:09:17 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



$40 seems a little on the high side, though it's not unheard of. All depends on how intricate you want to get with the "look" of your scales (handles).

USA Knifemaker is a pretty legit supplier with a pretty wide selection of micarta.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just want to second the part about wearing a mask. In all reality a respirator is better. Micarta particles/dust/whatever are really fine and hang in the air and can be really hard on your lungs. Supposedly the phenolic resin used to make micarta has formaldehyde base.

No need to shy away from micarta, but just make sure you're properly protected.

I have a respirator I use when I paint cars so that should be good enough, right.  The blocks of micarta I have found are only $30-40 is that price right? Seems kinda cheap.



$40 seems a little on the high side, though it's not unheard of. All depends on how intricate you want to get with the "look" of your scales (handles).

USA Knifemaker is a pretty legit supplier with a pretty wide selection of micarta.

Thanks for that link.  It has a lot of things I'm going to need.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 11:11:18 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Just want to second the part about wearing a mask. In all reality a respirator is better. Micarta particles/dust/whatever are really fine and hang in the air and can be really hard on your lungs. Supposedly the phenolic resin used to make micarta has formaldehyde base.

No need to shy away from micarta, but just make sure you're properly protected.
View Quote

I will.  I'm going to buy new filters before I start to make sure I'm as safe as possible.
Link Posted: 9/25/2015 11:52:34 PM EDT
[#13]
I use my kmg grinder to do my shaping.  I would attach the micarta to the tang then cut off the excess with a band saw.  After that I would use some type of bench top sander to knock off the edges.  Then use a slack part of the belt to do some rounding.  At that point you should be able to smooth it all together with a little hand sanding.

I use the sandblasted to give it a nice grippy feel.

Link Posted: 9/25/2015 11:59:51 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I use my kmg grinder to do my shaping.  I would attach the micarta to the tang then cut off the excess with a band saw.  After that I would use some type of bench top sander to knock off the edges.  Then use a slack part of the belt to do some rounding.  At that point you should be able to smooth it all together with a little hand sanding.

I use the sandblasted to give it a nice grippy feel.

View Quote

Perfect, thank you. What type of sand or media did you use to blast with?
Link Posted: 9/26/2015 12:01:33 AM EDT
[#15]
180 grit aluminum oxide
Link Posted: 9/26/2015 12:08:22 AM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
180 grit aluminum oxide
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Thank you.
Link Posted: 9/27/2015 9:55:57 PM EDT
[#17]
I'm going to completely refinish the two machetes but I'm not sure how I should put the edge on it.  After I get the machetes sandblasted how do I go about sharping the blade? Put an edge on it first then tape off the edge then cerakote it or paint the whole thing first then put an edge on it? I'll be using the the oven cure cerakote so I'm guessing it may be kinda hard to sharpen with the cerakote on the edge. Thoughts?  Thanks guys.
Link Posted: 9/28/2015 11:12:26 AM EDT
[#18]
Whatever you use that will sharpen the blade will eat through Cerakote right quick.  Cerakote is a great finish but it won't stand up to a sharpening stone.  

I'd paint the whole thing and then put your edge on.  


Link Posted: 9/28/2015 12:04:05 PM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:
Whatever you use that will sharpen the blade will eat through Cerakote right quick.  Cerakote is a great finish but it won't stand up to a sharpening stone.  

I'd paint the whole thing and then put your edge on.  


View Quote

Thank you. I want to blast it and paint it this week.
Link Posted: 9/28/2015 12:31:09 PM EDT
[#20]
I have one of these, it has a Cerakote finish on it.  It's surprisingly tough.  



Link Posted: 9/28/2015 1:21:25 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I have one of these, it has a Cerakote finish on it.  It's surprisingly tough.  

http://www.harrystone.net/posted/pathfinder-sheath.jpg

View Quote

I like that, what is it?
Link Posted: 9/28/2015 2:32:55 PM EDT
[#22]
Be warned, they're proud of them.

The blade and handle scale machining is great though, the blade grind is laser straight and the grind is as symmetrical as it can be.  They're made so the handle scales are interchangeable and they didn't take any short cuts with that, the scales are made to fit flush to the tang.  And they do.  The knives are really way more precise than they need to be but it is impressive.  

treeman pathfinder

Link Posted: 9/28/2015 2:55:51 PM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Be warned, they're proud of them.

The blade and handle scale machining is great though, the blade grind is laser straight and the grind is as symmetrical as it can be.  They're made so the handle scales are interchangeable and they didn't take any short cuts with that, the scales are made to fit flush to the tang.  And they do.  The knives are really way more precise than they need to be but it is impressive.  

treeman pathfinder

View Quote

Thanks. I think I may have to pick one up in the near future.  I don't mind paying for quality.
Link Posted: 9/28/2015 6:48:41 PM EDT
[#24]
I found working with some nice red oak is way easier than then many other materials.  Not quite done yet, just couldn't get myself to throw away a cheap samurai sword.  Red Oak sandwiching the full tang with some funky black epoxy.

Link Posted: 9/28/2015 8:18:03 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I found working with some nice red oak is way easier than then many other materials.  Not quite done yet, just couldn't get myself to throw away a cheap samurai sword.  Red Oak sandwiching the full tang with some funky black epoxy.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t274/Tomb007/20150928_184115_resized.jpg
View Quote

That looks pretty good.  I have built wooden handles for other knives and actually will be making one for a cheap sword I have.  But I like the grip and look of Micarta. I think with what I have in mind Micarta is what I need/want.  How long did it take you to make that handle?  I may copy your design for my sword.
Link Posted: 9/29/2015 7:25:04 AM EDT
[#26]
Well after playing around with some Corin I had laying around, I decide to bag it as it wasn't playing well.  Short of the finish and allowing the epoxy to cure, the handle took me about 1.5 hours of work time and with proper tools I would have been a bit quicker, all the while I pretty much just took my time as I wasn't rushing it.
Link Posted: 9/29/2015 8:02:01 AM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Well after playing around with some Corin I had laying around, I decide to bag it as it wasn't playing well.  Short of the finish and allowing the epoxy to cure, the handle took me about 1.5 hours of work time and with proper tools I would have been a bit quicker, all the while I pretty much just took my time as I wasn't rushing it.
View Quote

That's not a bad time. When you get it completely finished I would like to see it.
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