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Posted: 3/29/2014 8:43:43 PM EDT
I started off with an edger blade. I have read that it is probably not good metal but for my first I was willing to go the cheap route.
I made a forge similar to one I found on YouTube. I am not really satisfied with it so if anyone had a suggestion on a different one I can make please throw it out there.
It's not completely finished. My girlfriend bought me a cerakote kit for Christmas that I haven't used yet so I might as well get some practice in on that.
Let me know what you think. Maybe throw out some pointers. I haven't gotten it really sharp yet but it's got a fairly good edge on it so far.



Link Posted: 3/29/2014 9:47:13 PM EDT
[#1]
I'm impressed!  Nice looking working blade there!
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 9:10:37 AM EDT
[#2]
Thank you!
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 4:53:14 PM EDT
[#3]
Excellent job. It looks great. What sources did you use for your research on this?
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 6:59:07 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
Excellent job. It looks great. What sources did you use for your research on this?
View Quote


Mainly YouTube and the blade forum. Are there any specific place I should look that are easy to comprehend?

I redid the handle tonight. Looks better than it did but my twists aren't very straight.

Link Posted: 3/31/2014 7:10:47 AM EDT
[#5]
Where would be a good place to buy steel blanks? What type of steel should I use? 1095 or other?
Link Posted: 3/31/2014 3:39:45 PM EDT
[#6]
Nice work, knife dogs is also a forum for blade smithing information.
Link Posted: 3/31/2014 3:52:02 PM EDT
[#7]
Someone I know that's a hobbyist always works with 1095 spring steel. I don't think it's as forgiving as other options out there.
Link Posted: 3/31/2014 6:22:08 PM EDT
[#8]
I would imagine spring steel would be hard to work with. I will give that forum a look. Thanks!
Link Posted: 3/31/2014 6:39:55 PM EDT
[#9]
Good job!  The key is to keep after it and make each one better than the last.

Using a known steel so that you can heat treat it properly is my number 1 tip for you.
1084 is a good place to start.

If you've got any specific questions I'd be happy to try to help.

Link Posted: 3/31/2014 7:31:09 PM EDT
[#10]
I am just eager to start the next one. I so have a question on heat treating. We it says let it "soak" does that mean to keep it in the heat for however long? Also, any good sources for steel? I've seen some on amazon
Link Posted: 3/31/2014 7:40:53 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
I am just eager to start the next one. I so have a question on heat treating. We it says let it "soak" does that mean to keep it in the heat for however long? Also, any good sources for steel? I've seen some on amazon
View Quote


Soak means to keep it at the target temperature for the specified period of time.  Soaking complex steels in a forge can be tricky, usually the heat is rising or falling within the forge.
That is the main reason I recommended 1084 to you.  You can get good results even without a soak.  
However all steel's will benefit from a soak and is the reason I use a digital heat treat oven, it holds temp very evenly so I can soak.

NJ Steel Baron is my favorite steel supplier.

I am eager to see how much you improve on the next one.


Link Posted: 3/31/2014 7:52:19 PM EDT
[#12]
We have a coil wrap heater not sure of the exact name but it burn carbon off of fuel nozzles that go in afterburners and that goes up to 2,300 degrees at work so I may use that when all the bosses leave one day. The quenching part it was worries me about that. I'm sure it would stink the place up. I will have to think on that. Like I said before I am not happy with that forge I made and could tell right off the bat that it was very inconsistent. In my case I am afraid it will be trial and error.

Thank you for your help. I'm sure the more I get into it, the more questions I will have.
Link Posted: 4/2/2014 6:25:50 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:
We have a coil wrap heater not sure of the exact name but it burn carbon off of fuel nozzles that go in afterburners and that goes up to 2,300 degrees at work so I may use that when all the bosses leave one day. The quenching part it was worries me about that. I'm sure it would stink the place up. I will have to think on that. Like I said before I am not happy with that forge I made and could tell right off the bat that it was very inconsistent. In my case I am afraid it will be trial and error.

Thank you for your help. I'm sure the more I get into it, the more questions I will have.
View Quote


It's not about how hot you can get it, it's about getting it to the right temp.  Use a magnet and read up on the process.
If you use a forgiving steel like 1084 you can quench in water and not have any smell.

You could also outsource your heat treat.  It's relatively inexpensive compared to getting a heat treat oven.


Link Posted: 4/2/2014 7:05:44 PM EDT
[#14]
I used a magnet on the one I made. I say it seemed inconsistent because it seemed like the heat was focused on one part of the blade. I can't find any 1084 so I may use 1080+ or d2. It seems to be the only thing I can find. The heated contraption I have at work should work great because I can regulate it from zero to HOT I believe it will get much hotter than I need. I going for that sense of accomplishment so right now out sourcing is out of the picture. It's like a mid life mid life crisis (24)
Link Posted: 4/3/2014 6:19:57 AM EDT
[#15]
Brit blades has some good stuff on their forums.



If you want to talk to Trollsky (from youtube), he's a member there.
Link Posted: 4/3/2014 4:09:33 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I used a magnet on the one I made. I say it seemed inconsistent because it seemed like the heat was focused on one part of the blade. I can't find any 1084 so I may use 1080+ or d2. It seems to be the only thing I can find. The heated contraption I have at work should work great because I can regulate it from zero to HOT I believe it will get much hotter than I need. I going for that sense of accomplishment so right now out sourcing is out of the picture. It's like a mid life mid life crisis (24)
View Quote


For now I'd use the other piece of that edger blade and just make it as best you can and shoot for better than the first.
You have to "pump" and rotate the blade in and out of the forge so it heats evenly.  
Keep the thicker parts toward and the thinner parts away from the heat source so it comes up as evenly as possible.
It's very easy to over heat a pre-beveled edge.

Knife Dogs and Blade Forums are a wealth of info for a new maker.

NJ Steel Baron should have 1084 back in before long, 1080 is same class of steel and an equally good choice.
D2 is not a good choice for a beginner doing their heat treat in a forge.
I can understand wanting to do it yourself, I have from the beginning as well.

Link Posted: 4/3/2014 5:35:23 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


For now I'd use the other piece of that edger blade and just make it as best you can and shoot for better than the first.
You have to "pump" and rotate the blade in and out of the forge so it heats evenly.  
Keep the thicker parts toward and the thinner parts away from the heat source so it comes up as evenly as possible.
It's very easy to over heat a pre-beveled edge.

Knife Dogs and Blade Forums are a wealth of info for a new maker.

NJ Steel Baron should have 1084 back in before long, 1080 is same class of steel and an equally good choice.
D2 is not a good choice for a beginner doing their heat treat in a forge.
I can understand wanting to do it yourself, I have from the beginning as well.

View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I used a magnet on the one I made. I say it seemed inconsistent because it seemed like the heat was focused on one part of the blade. I can't find any 1084 so I may use 1080+ or d2. It seems to be the only thing I can find. The heated contraption I have at work should work great because I can regulate it from zero to HOT I believe it will get much hotter than I need. I going for that sense of accomplishment so right now out sourcing is out of the picture. It's like a mid life mid life crisis (24)


For now I'd use the other piece of that edger blade and just make it as best you can and shoot for better than the first.
You have to "pump" and rotate the blade in and out of the forge so it heats evenly.  
Keep the thicker parts toward and the thinner parts away from the heat source so it comes up as evenly as possible.
It's very easy to over heat a pre-beveled edge.

Knife Dogs and Blade Forums are a wealth of info for a new maker.

NJ Steel Baron should have 1084 back in before long, 1080 is same class of steel and an equally good choice.
D2 is not a good choice for a beginner doing their heat treat in a forge.
I can understand wanting to do it yourself, I have from the beginning as well.


We'll shoot! I bought some D2 today.
Link Posted: 4/5/2014 12:07:21 AM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:

We'll shoot! I bought some D2 today.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I used a magnet on the one I made. I say it seemed inconsistent because it seemed like the heat was focused on one part of the blade. I can't find any 1084 so I may use 1080+ or d2. It seems to be the only thing I can find. The heated contraption I have at work should work great because I can regulate it from zero to HOT I believe it will get much hotter than I need. I going for that sense of accomplishment so right now out sourcing is out of the picture. It's like a mid life mid life crisis (24)


For now I'd use the other piece of that edger blade and just make it as best you can and shoot for better than the first.
You have to "pump" and rotate the blade in and out of the forge so it heats evenly.  
Keep the thicker parts toward and the thinner parts away from the heat source so it comes up as evenly as possible.
It's very easy to over heat a pre-beveled edge.

Knife Dogs and Blade Forums are a wealth of info for a new maker.

NJ Steel Baron should have 1084 back in before long, 1080 is same class of steel and an equally good choice.
D2 is not a good choice for a beginner doing their heat treat in a forge.
I can understand wanting to do it yourself, I have from the beginning as well.


We'll shoot! I bought some D2 today.


That requires very attentive and exact heat treating, IIRC.
Link Posted: 4/5/2014 11:06:12 AM EDT
[#19]
Usaknifemaker has 1084.
Link Posted: 4/6/2014 6:41:10 AM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:


That requires very attentive and exact heat treating, IIRC.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I used a magnet on the one I made. I say it seemed inconsistent because it seemed like the heat was focused on one part of the blade. I can't find any 1084 so I may use 1080+ or d2. It seems to be the only thing I can find. The heated contraption I have at work should work great because I can regulate it from zero to HOT I believe it will get much hotter than I need. I going for that sense of accomplishment so right now out sourcing is out of the picture. It's like a mid life mid life crisis (24)


For now I'd use the other piece of that edger blade and just make it as best you can and shoot for better than the first.
You have to "pump" and rotate the blade in and out of the forge so it heats evenly.  
Keep the thicker parts toward and the thinner parts away from the heat source so it comes up as evenly as possible.
It's very easy to over heat a pre-beveled edge.

Knife Dogs and Blade Forums are a wealth of info for a new maker.

NJ Steel Baron should have 1084 back in before long, 1080 is same class of steel and an equally good choice.
D2 is not a good choice for a beginner doing their heat treat in a forge.
I can understand wanting to do it yourself, I have from the beginning as well.


We'll shoot! I bought some D2 today.


That requires very attentive and exact heat treating, IIRC.


I believe I can do it but if not lesson learned.
Link Posted: 4/6/2014 6:41:43 AM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
Usaknifemaker has 1084.
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Thanks I will check them out!
Link Posted: 4/6/2014 6:56:43 AM EDT
[#22]
Here's a simple forge I made way back when I was starting out. My equipment and processes have become much more complicated for me over the years but I hope this helps. You can make a single burner very easily. The best part is that you can use large propane tanks.



HF propane torch head.

Chimney Flue liner brick, they are made in many sizes.


Old compressor tank to hold everything in.




Best of luck with your hobby.







































Link Posted: 4/6/2014 8:59:05 AM EDT
[#23]
Wow! Your work is what has inspired me to try to make my own.
Link Posted: 4/7/2014 5:46:12 PM EDT
[#24]
Do not attempt to heat treat D2 unless you have a controlled heat source.  It does require specific temps to ht properly.  You can send it off for a low price which would be worth it.  Or you can hang onto it  and try a different steel.  1084 is a great steel and more forgiving than 1095.  5160 has become a much over looked steel as of late.  It is a great beginner steel.  It has probably passed more Journeyman smith tests is the ABS than all other steels combined.  It is relatively cheap and easy to find.  

I see you live in OK.  There is a guy there by the name of Jerry McClure  He is a great guy if you want to talk to a professional custom maker face to face.  I can assist were possible, been making knives for 23 years now.
Link Posted: 4/7/2014 6:10:16 PM EDT
[#25]
You could always send off the D2 to get heat treated.  I use Peters Heat Treating.  D2 is tougher to grind than other steels.  Also, hardened steel grinds nicer than soft steel.  I know it sounds counter intuitive, but it really is.  What are you using for a grinder?
Link Posted: 4/9/2014 9:58:07 AM EDT
[#26]
I think I can keep the heat regulated but it that fails I will use the guy you suggested. Thanks you for the info
Link Posted: 4/10/2014 7:38:28 PM EDT
[#27]
Thanks smithy for hooking me up with some steel.
I almost have it to the shape I want it. Still a little fat on the handle but it's getting there
Link Posted: 4/10/2014 11:30:21 PM EDT
[#28]
As far as heat treating is concerned you can test your setup using scrap pieces from the stock of your knife. This will let you get things dialed in before you do the knife. Personally I would only forge heat treat 1084 unless I had a thermocouple, pyrometer, or some other method of accurately monitoring the temperature. I'll be damned if I'm gonna spend a bunch of time making a knife only to ruin it in heat treat. Jeff Mutz at Trugrit heat treats blades for $10 a piece and if you send him 10 he'll knock it down to $8. He tests hardness too. He has 10 of my blades right now.
Link Posted: 4/11/2014 4:01:35 AM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
As far as heat treating is concerned you can test your setup using scrap pieces from the stock of your knife. This will let you get things dialed in before you do the knife. Personally I would only forge heat treat 1084 unless I had a thermocouple, pyrometer, or some other method of accurately monitoring the temperature. I'll be damned if I'm gonna spend a bunch of time making a knife only to ruin it in heat treat. Jeff Mutz at Trugrit heat treats blades for $10 a piece and if you send him 10 he'll knock it down to $8. He tests hardness too. He has 10 of my blades right now.
View Quote


The more I think about it the more I am considering taking it somewhere to have the HT done.
Link Posted: 4/11/2014 12:43:33 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


The more I think about it the more I am considering taking it somewhere to have the HT done.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
As far as heat treating is concerned you can test your setup using scrap pieces from the stock of your knife. This will let you get things dialed in before you do the knife. Personally I would only forge heat treat 1084 unless I had a thermocouple, pyrometer, or some other method of accurately monitoring the temperature. I'll be damned if I'm gonna spend a bunch of time making a knife only to ruin it in heat treat. Jeff Mutz at Trugrit heat treats blades for $10 a piece and if you send him 10 he'll knock it down to $8. He tests hardness too. He has 10 of my blades right now.


The more I think about it the more I am considering taking it somewhere to have the HT done.


That sounds like a wise idea if you're gonna be using more complex(to heat treat) steels. If you're gonna teach yourself to heat treat start with 1084/1080.
Link Posted: 4/11/2014 7:31:55 PM EDT
[#31]
Looks good. I used to send all my 1095 to bearclaw blades in Texas. Around $10 a blade. He does a good job.
Link Posted: 4/12/2014 2:06:25 PM EDT
[#32]
I will finish this one and do a few more and probably send those down to that guy.
Link Posted: 4/17/2014 1:22:34 PM EDT
[#33]
A few more picture. Slowly chugging along.



Link Posted: 4/17/2014 5:32:18 PM EDT
[#34]
Grinds look great so far. How far are you going to take them?
Link Posted: 4/17/2014 5:34:19 PM EDT
[#35]
The plunge looks pretty good but a way to get it looking better is to use a round file wrapped with fine sandpaper. Practice on some scrap first but once you master it, it works good. If you want that swoopy look that is.
Link Posted: 4/17/2014 6:51:25 PM EDT
[#36]
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Quoted:
Grinds look great so far. How far are you going to take them?
View Quote


That is 15 degrees. I am leaving the about a millimeter thick until after I have them HT. Am I right on doing that?
Link Posted: 4/17/2014 7:03:46 PM EDT
[#37]
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Quoted:
The plunge looks pretty good but a way to get it looking better is to use a round file wrapped with fine sandpaper. Practice on some scrap first but once you master it, it works good. If you want that swoopy look that is.
View Quote


What am I trying to accomplish with this. Just more detailed lines or what?
Link Posted: 4/18/2014 5:47:38 PM EDT
[#38]
It will give a cleaner look.  What are you grinding with?  I take my rough grinds down to about .035 or .040 and go much higher before heat treat.  You are going to have a lot of hardened material to remove are your current state.
Link Posted: 4/18/2014 6:34:26 PM EDT
[#39]
I completely screwed up on the tanto blade. The bevels in the end didn't match up on either side. I'm not sure where I went wrong
Link Posted: 4/18/2014 8:11:23 PM EDT
[#40]
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Quoted:
I completely screwed up on the tanto blade. The bevels in the end didn't match up on either side. I'm not sure where I went wrong
View Quote


You should use a jig to do bevels.


Also try a flat grind. A lot easier.
Link Posted: 4/18/2014 9:45:57 PM EDT
[#41]
That's what I don't understand. I used a jig and mounted them the same way on both sides. I even checked the angle of my belt sander. Not really sure where I went wrong
Link Posted: 4/19/2014 1:49:45 AM EDT
[#42]
Have you tried grinding with out the jig?  I'm not really a big fan of jigs...
Link Posted: 4/19/2014 1:52:36 PM EDT
[#43]
Yeah. I don't have a steady enough hand and haven't got the feel for it, not yet anyways
Link Posted: 4/19/2014 2:12:04 PM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


What am I trying to accomplish with this. Just more detailed lines or what?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
The plunge looks pretty good but a way to get it looking better is to use a round file wrapped with fine sandpaper. Practice on some scrap first but once you master it, it works good. If you want that swoopy look that is.


What am I trying to accomplish with this. Just more detailed lines or what?


Its not something you have to do. I think your plunge looks great so far. Doing that with a round file gives them a more smooth round look.

As far as tantos go. They seem like they would be really simple but I think they are actually tougher to get right than a normal non tanto grind.

The final edge bevel should be around 15-20 per side, but your initial blade grinds should be less. Just grind till its to a height that you like and call it good. I chisel grind most of my blades and on 1/4" thick steel I try to bring my grinds up at least 3/4" - 1" high. Anything less and the blade just feels to obtuse and doesn't really cut well.

Good luck.
Link Posted: 4/19/2014 6:00:18 PM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Its not something you have to do. I think your plunge looks great so far. Doing that with a round file gives them a more smooth round look.

As far as tantos go. They seem like they would be really simple but I think they are actually tougher to get right than a normal non tanto grind.

The final edge bevel should be around 15-20 per side, but your initial blade grinds should be less. Just grind till its to a height that you like and call it good. I chisel grind most of my blades and on 1/4" thick steel I try to bring my grinds up at least 3/4" - 1" high. Anything less and the blade just feels to obtuse and doesn't really cut well.

Good luck.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The plunge looks pretty good but a way to get it looking better is to use a round file wrapped with fine sandpaper. Practice on some scrap first but once you master it, it works good. If you want that swoopy look that is.


What am I trying to accomplish with this. Just more detailed lines or what?


Its not something you have to do. I think your plunge looks great so far. Doing that with a round file gives them a more smooth round look.

As far as tantos go. They seem like they would be really simple but I think they are actually tougher to get right than a normal non tanto grind.

The final edge bevel should be around 15-20 per side, but your initial blade grinds should be less. Just grind till its to a height that you like and call it good. I chisel grind most of my blades and on 1/4" thick steel I try to bring my grinds up at least 3/4" - 1" high. Anything less and the blade just feels to obtuse and doesn't really cut well.

Good luck.


Why so thick?  My work is mostly folders and I rarely use any stock that thick and my grinds go about .75 to 1" high.  I'm just curious. I just did my first big fixed blade with a 10" cutting edge...
Link Posted: 4/19/2014 8:43:05 PM EDT
[#46]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Why so thick?  My work is mostly folders and I rarely use any stock that thick and my grinds go about .75 to 1" high.  I'm just curious. I just did my first big fixed blade with a 10" cutting edge...
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The plunge looks pretty good but a way to get it looking better is to use a round file wrapped with fine sandpaper. Practice on some scrap first but once you master it, it works good. If you want that swoopy look that is.


What am I trying to accomplish with this. Just more detailed lines or what?


Its not something you have to do. I think your plunge looks great so far. Doing that with a round file gives them a more smooth round look.

As far as tantos go. They seem like they would be really simple but I think they are actually tougher to get right than a normal non tanto grind.

The final edge bevel should be around 15-20 per side, but your initial blade grinds should be less. Just grind till its to a height that you like and call it good. I chisel grind most of my blades and on 1/4" thick steel I try to bring my grinds up at least 3/4" - 1" high. Anything less and the blade just feels to obtuse and doesn't really cut well.

Good luck.


Why so thick?  My work is mostly folders and I rarely use any stock that thick and my grinds go about .75 to 1" high.  I'm just curious. I just did my first big fixed blade with a 10" cutting edge...


I mostly use 1/4" and 3/16" for my knives. Different strokes for different folks and all.

When I started making knives I made them for myself and buddies in my unit (Infantry Unit). I have seen soldiers that could break an anvil and that is why I build the knives the way I do. Thick, sharp, and tough.

I have recently been making some out of 1/8" stock, hunting style knives, that may be used for skinning and not prying doors or boxes open.

After using 3/16" and 1/4" knives I don't think I could go back to anything thinner.
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