.50 cal ammo Deal!

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - .50 cal ammo Deal! (Page 1 of 2)

Posted: 6/10/2015 5:01:01 PM EDT

CTD cut the price of their surplus .50 to like $1.50 per round, i picked up about 500 rounds...shipping a little nuts but, at a buck fifty....hard to beat

Posted: 6/10/2015 5:31:36 PM EDT

[#1]

Great deal! Screw all the flippers that wanted to screw people over at $3+ a round!

Now, if we could get .22 back to $10 a brick....

Posted: 6/10/2015 6:01:01 PM EDT

[#2]

Quote History

Quoted:
Great deal! Screw all the flippers that wanted to screw people over at $3+ a round!

Now, if we could get .22 back to $10 a brick....

View Quote

Not likely at CTD--but this is a great deal

Posted: 6/10/2015 9:48:00 PM EDT

[#3]

I've been talking with another 50 owner about splitting a can of ball and a can of the AP. I hope the order hasn't been placed yet.

Posted: 6/11/2015 2:59:08 PM EDT

[#4]

Hows the Greek surplus rounds that they are selling compare to something like Survival OPs rounds? I ran through a bunch of the survival ops stuff and stocked up on it because it was a fairly good deal (at the time) at $2.50 shipped. Now it looks like I can get the same stuff but Greek surplus for like $1.75 shipped. Anyone have any experience with this stuff?

Posted: 6/11/2015 7:00:31 PM EDT

[#5]

They have US surplus and Greek surplus on their site. The Greek stuff says non-corrosive. Any idea about the US stuff?
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/AMM-A35130LSLF

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/AMM-A35105LKSAP

One of the comments on the second link says the primers are corrosive.

Posted: 6/11/2015 8:52:53 PM EDT

[#6]

Is it safe to shoot 35 year old ammo, especially these monsters? Without knowing if it was kept in good temps the entire time, not sure I would take the risk.

Posted: 6/11/2015 9:04:24 PM EDT

[#7]

How is ammo made during WWII only 35 years old? Thats some fuzzy math. Its also corrosive if made in the 1940s

Posted: 6/11/2015 10:47:41 PM EDT

[#8]

My ammo can full of Greek HXP showed up today, within 24hrs of the order! All of it is dated 1970 and is in good condition, as is the ammo can.

Posted: 6/12/2015 3:16:10 PM EDT

[#9]

So just to confirm, the greek HXP is NOT corrosive correct?

Also, I've read before that older M33 ball could run very hot in rifles. Anyone know if this stuff will be good in an M82?

Posted: 6/12/2015 9:04:28 PM EDT

[#10]

bsmith918-

Was your can of HXP, factory, or just a generic can? If it's a factory HXP can, could you post a pic?

Back in the day, when HXP was plentiful, it was all packed in sealed crates. Was just curious if this lot was different.

Posted: 6/12/2015 10:45:42 PM EDT

[#11]

It appears to be a factory can. It has all of the information in printed in yellow. The can is in great shape.

Posted: 6/12/2015 11:14:20 PM EDT

[#12]

The linked M2 ball and 2 cans of linked AP has been ordered. The total was about $20 less than it was for 1 of each before. I'm not sure when I'll have it or when I'll try shooting some yet. The other member that is splitting it with me ordered it. Any suggestions on how to de-link it?

Posted: 6/12/2015 11:59:38 PM EDT

[#13]

To delink it, first get a pair of good gloves. With one hand grab the base of the round, pull and twist. Use the other hand to hold the linked rounds so that they're not moving around all the place.

Once you do a few you'll get it and be a pro for life!

Posted: 6/13/2015 1:05:36 AM EDT

[#14]

Ordered one of each. I'll crno them when they come in to see if there really hot or not

Posted: 6/13/2015 9:19:17 AM EDT

[#15]

Just ordered some of the ap rounds it was about 2$ a shot with shipping.
It would be hard to reload these rounds for any less.

Posted: 6/17/2015 7:36:34 PM EDT

[#16]

Got mine in today. The AP came in a cool side open ammo box with some neat embossing. If the weather is good tomarrow i'll try and crono them. Headstamps are 45 and just a bit grimmy but should clean and shoot nicely.

Posted: 6/17/2015 8:12:04 PM EDT

[#17]

Please do. The web sites showed them to run 2810 fps I would like to know how close it really is to this, and isn't this a lighter charge for this round?

Posted: 6/17/2015 8:18:40 PM EDT

[#18]

Is the ammo can in good reusable condition?

Or will I just have to toss it and put the ammo in a newer box?

Posted: 6/17/2015 8:41:14 PM EDT

[#19]

That can looks a bit beat up. Then again, it is 70 years old. What day did you order yours? Did you ever get a tracking number?

Posted: 6/17/2015 8:55:17 PM EDT

[#20]

Quote History

Quoted:
Please do. The web sites showed them to run 2810 fps I would like to know how close it really is to this, and isn't this a lighter charge for this round?

View Quote

Not sure but will compair it to A.E. to see.

Posted: 6/17/2015 8:56:30 PM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
Is the ammo can in good reusable condition?

Or will I just have to toss it and put the ammo in a newer box?

View Quote

Completly useable. Rusty but the lid seals and closes well. Found out its for a M2 so thats cool. I dont have any side opening cans

Posted: 6/17/2015 8:57:47 PM EDT

[#22]

Quote History

Quoted:
That can looks a bit beat up. Then again, it is 70 years old. What day did you order yours? Did you ever get a tracking number?

View Quote

Ordered it the day i posted above. I think last thursday. Yep got a tracker and it was held up a day because of tropical storm bill.

Posted: 6/17/2015 9:00:23 PM EDT

[#23]

Just putting this right here.

My tracking number got sent to my spam folder and I didn't see it until I went to clean it out.

And it looks like mine will be delivered a day early

Posted: 6/17/2015 9:20:36 PM EDT

[#24]

The 40's ammo is corrosive so clean your rifle accordingly. If you have some WWII cleaner use it at the range, Windex with ammonia will help also.

I use Boretech Eliminator as it states it will neutralize corrosive salts from primers. Use it on the bolt also and anywhere the residue might get into.

If all else fails put it in your shower and run hot soapy water down the barrel. Dunk your bolt into it, run some through the muzzle brake...

Even though that Greek stuff is late model, there's no guarantee that it's not corrosive. When it comes to foreign ammo it's best to err on the safe side and clean it like it's corrosive.

Posted: 6/17/2015 9:26:46 PM EDT

[#25]

The one one ap lot they advertise it ad being "manufactured at the Kelly Springfield, Allegany Ordnance Plant - Cumberland, Maryland"
And not foreign.

If it is corrosive couldn't muzzle loading cleaner work to remove the salt. Then clean it like normal?

Posted: 6/17/2015 9:31:32 PM EDT

[#26]

Probably, what does the can say?

Couldn't hurt to clean it with regular cleaner at the range and then hit it better when you get home.

Posted: 6/17/2015 9:44:07 PM EDT

[#27]

When you are talking about guns I don't think you can find anything more corrosive then black powder. I have seen barrels start rusting with in a few hours of being shot.
If the cleaner for them will stop the black powder from rusting I would think the cleaner should work well for just the corrosive primers. I use bearchwook Cassey it is like a pink sopay water.

Posted: 6/17/2015 9:47:55 PM EDT

[#28]

Sounds good, if it cleans that we'll then use it and check the rifle the next day or two. That way your sure to get everything out of the barrel and off the bolt.

Posted: 6/17/2015 11:03:21 PM EDT

[#29]

Quote History

Quoted:
When you are talking about guns I don't think you can find anything more corrosive then black powder. I have seen barrels start rusting with in a few hours of being shot.
If the cleaner for them will stop the black powder from rusting I would think the cleaner should work well for just the corrosive primers. I use bearchwook Cassey it is like a pink sopay water.

View Quote

Which one do you use? There's a variety of products on their website.

Posted: 6/17/2015 11:25:48 PM EDT

[#30]

I use bearchwook Cassey. It is a pink sopay water like sultion .
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000C513K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1434597800&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=birchwood+casey+black+powder

Posted: 6/17/2015 11:30:15 PM EDT

[#31]

Thanks for the info on it being corosive guys. I shoot alot of 5.45x39 surplus so the whole crossive stuff doesnt bother me. If at a range i brink a windex bottle and spray it down for the ride home but i have a 100 yards in the backyard so i use hot water and have never had a problem. I plan on this just being shtf ammo for the most part, as i reload. But it was a good deal so i had to buy some even tho i said i would never buy from ctd after the shit they pulled. They sucked me in. :/

Posted: 6/18/2015 12:59:20 PM EDT

[#32]

Quote History

Quoted:
The 40's ammo is corrosive so clean your rifle accordingly. If you have some WWII cleaner use it at the range, Windex with ammonia will help also.

I use Boretech Eliminator as it states it will neutralize corrosive salts from primers. Use it on the bolt also and anywhere the residue might get into.

If all else fails put it in your shower and run hot soapy water down the barrel. Dunk your bolt into it, run some through the muzzle brake...

Even though that Greek stuff is late model, there's no guarantee that it's not corrosive. When it comes to foreign ammo it's best to err on the safe side and clean it like it's corrosive.

View Quote

Your saying the 1970s Greek HXP Ball might be corrosive? I sure hope not! It says its non corrosive right on there and everywhere else I've seen it sold in the past says it is non-corrosive.

Posted: 6/18/2015 2:44:05 PM EDT

[#33]

I'll see if I can get Keith Pagel to chime in on foreign ammo. His advice has always been to clean it like it's corrosive.

When the Igman IK88 hit the market back in the early 2000's, Keith had it tested and it came up mildly corrosive. Kinda like semi pregnant, very few foreign ammo makers I would trust.

Posted: 6/18/2015 3:54:44 PM EDT

[#34]

Quote History

Quoted:
I'll see if I can get Keith Pagel to chime in on foreign ammo. His advice has always been to clean it like it's corrosive.

When the Igman IK88 hit the market back in the early 2000's, Keith had it tested and it came up mildly corrosive. Kinda like semi pregnant, very few foreign ammo makers I would trust.

View Quote

Much appreciated if you can find out more! I actually just got the stuff in today, but haven't had the chance to open it up and take a look.

I don't want to deal with anything that might be corrosive. Not that cleaning it is a big deal, but I am busy enough to barely find time to go shoot... I don't want to have to worry about my 10k rifle corroding, because I got caught up and wasn't able to clean it within a few days.

Posted: 6/18/2015 8:30:13 PM EDT

[#35]

I might go shoot it tomorrow morning and maybe even bring the chrono. I've heard surplus can sometimes be overly hot.It's not so hot that it's dangerous to even shoot once to see right? What am I looking for to know if it's to hot in my m107? I reload other calibers so I know what typical pressure signs are, but I know semi auto beats up brass even without pressure and I'm also not familiar with 50 cal.

Advice would be appreciated

Posted: 6/18/2015 9:10:11 PM EDT

[#36]

Flattened primers, brass sticking in the chamber and or the extractor trying to tear the rim off.

You should be fine, guys have been shooting the stuff for awhile and have reported it's good stuff. Brass is reloadable do be sure to save it.

Posted: 6/18/2015 10:04:40 PM EDT

[#37]

Okay, here's Keith's response on foreign ammo and its just like I posted.

U.S. cut off for 50 BMG was right about 1952. So if you buy pre '52 50 BMG it's corrosive and you should clean accordingly.

Foreign ammo is a toss up as not all foreign manufacturers have stopped using corrosive primers. Or primers that are 100% non corrosive. This is why I remind people to clean it like it's corrosive if it's foreign.

Posted: 6/18/2015 10:31:08 PM EDT

[#38]

The weather was still bad here today. I didnt figure the crono would read ao i didnt try it. Maybe tomarrow or the weekend. :/ I have a nice piece of 1"i want to test that ap on against my api loads that went threw it.

Posted: 6/18/2015 10:47:07 PM EDT

[#39]

Which AP? The Kelly Springfield from CTD?

My guess is that it will blow through it like it wasn't even there. WWII AP is rated for armor thicker then that so my bet is on the AP.

I got home from work this morning to find a nice heavy box full of AP. My delemon now is, do I open it or toss it in the closet for the Zombie Apocalypse?!

Posted: 6/18/2015 11:15:29 PM EDT

[#40]

Quote History

Quoted:
Which AP? The Kelly Springfield from CTD?

My guess is that it will blow through it like it wasn't even there. WWII AP is rated for armor thicker then that so my bet is on the AP.

I got home from work this morning to find a nice heavy box full of AP. My delemon now is, do I open it or toss it in the closet for the Zombie Apocalypse?!

View Quote

I expect the same to. Just want to get some numbers and test a few round and put the rest up for another day

Posted: 6/19/2015 6:44:03 AM EDT

[#41]

Post what you're testing the ammo in. I have the 32" M99 with the 6 port brake but don't have a chrono. For the AP, I'll save most of it to shoot later. One round is going to the collection though. For the ball, 1 round to the collection and the rest will probably be shot.

Posted: 6/19/2015 11:43:13 AM EDT

[#42]

*** CHEAPER THAN DIRT *** has non refundable .50 ammo of unknown origin for $1 a round. Buy at your own risk if you plan on it!!!

The last time someone I know did this they had to borrow my knife to pick pieces of brass out of their leg! NO it wasn't from CTD but it had the same warning.

So ask yourself if it's worth it, at best buy for parts and then reload to be sure it's better then a bomb next to your face!

Posted: 6/19/2015 4:26:15 PM EDT

[#43]

Bucsfan69, if im hijacking your thread just tell me and i'll start another one. I dont wanna just take it over from ya.

Useing my trusty pipe flaring tool i pulled them apart. I only pulled down one of each as of now. I picked the worse out of 5 i delinked. One of the fmj rounds had alot of corrosion on it so that's the one I pulled down. But when i rubbed it with a piece of stainless steel wool it cleaned up nice with no pitting under it

Fmj

Projo: 699 grains
Powder: 223 grains of an extruded type
Brass: SL 45 headstamp 850gr W.O primer

A.P.

Projo: 693gr
Powder: 235 extruded type
Brass: KS43 headstamp 832 gr w.o. primer

Eta crono and pic

Update:

Alright here we go. Useing my AR50 with the crono 10' from muzzle i got a reading on (1) pmc fmj , (3) of the fmj , &(3) ap's

Pmc was to set up the crono and give a base line.

Pmc 2800

Fmj 2694, 2638, 2628 avg. 2652
a.p. 2707, 2664, 2672 avg. 2681

Accuracy was great. The target pic is a bit cluddered but i marked it
#1 was pmc sight shot at the white spot
#2 was 3 shots of fmj shot at the white
#3 was 1 ap 2 mills down for a new spot
#4 was 2 a.p. shot at the #3 hole

I shot a piece of 1 1/2" piece of mild plate steel with 1 ap round at 100 yards, which right threw. Good stuff. If it wasnt so muddy and just plane nasty i would like to do more testing but this gives us some data.

Posted: 6/19/2015 4:44:39 PM EDT

[#44]

Take a nail and hammer it into a board, cut the head off and then grind off any galvanizing.

Put your barrel over it and fire the primer so that the residue get on the nail. Place the board with the nail in your garage or shed.

Watch it and let us know how long it takes for rust to show up on it.

Other then that the ammo looks good for being over 70 years old!!! I think I might buy some of the SL ammo they have for sale in sealed tins. If anyone wants to do some trading PM me and then we can email each other. Always looking for stuff to add to the collection.

Posted: 6/19/2015 7:41:11 PM EDT

[#45]

Quote History

Quoted:
Take a nail and hammer it into a board, cut the head off and then grind off any galvanizing.

Put your barrel over it and fire the primer so that the residue get on the nail. Place the board with the nail in your garage or shed.

Watch it and let us know how long it takes for rust to show up on it.

Other then that the ammo looks good for being over 70 years old!!! I think I might buy some of the SL ammo they have for sale in sealed tins. If anyone wants to do some trading PM me and then we can email each other. Always looking for stuff to add to the collection.

View Quote

Sorry, i already punched the primers

Posted: 6/20/2015 1:19:52 AM EDT

[#46]

Quote History

Quoted:
*** CHEAPER THAN DIRT *** has non refundable .50 ammo of unknown origin for $1 a round. Buy at your own risk if you plan on it!!!

The last time someone I know did this they had to borrow my knife to pick pieces of brass out of their leg! NO it wasn't from CTD but it had the same warning.

So ask yourself if it's worth it, at best buy for parts and then reload to be sure it's better then a bomb next to your face!

View Quote

Thats the grade B stuff. Looks like mixed headstamps and it even says some ammo may not be shootable. :/ Yikes

Posted: 6/20/2015 1:24:52 AM EDT

[#47]

With a barrett m107, if I was to fire corrosive ammo , what do you clean. Obviously the barrel, bore and bold face.. however do you have to clean anything else since it's a semi? (it's not gas operated so I'm thinking the receiever is sealed from the salt and you don't have to clean it?)

Also, the hxp that o got from ctd has headstamp from both 70 and 78....I thought it was supposed to be just 78, but no mater , it all looks like it's in good condition and not corroded at all.

Posted: 6/20/2015 1:59:05 AM EDT

[#48]

Where ever you think the gases are going, clean it. Best to be safe, especially if you live in a high humidity area.

Posted: 6/20/2015 2:46:00 AM EDT

[#49]

Quote History

Quoted:
With a barrett m107, if I was to fire corrosive ammo , what do you clean. Obviously the barrel, bore and bold face.. however do you have to clean anything else since it's a semi? (it's not gas operated so I'm thinking the receiever is sealed from the salt and you don't have to clean it?)

Also, the hxp that o got from ctd has headstamp from both 70 and 78....I thought it was supposed to be just 78, but no mater , it all looks like it's in good condition and not corroded at all.

View Quote

I throw my moisn and ak74's in the shower and use only hot water and just wash everything, then clean as normal. Has worked fine with 5.45 and 54R ammo.

Posted: 6/21/2015 10:56:00 PM EDT

[#50]

Completly forgot to show the pic of the primer. Im not up on such things so maybe someone who knows would know if its a corrosive one or not but looking at its color.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - .50 cal ammo Deal! (Page 1 of 2)

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