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Posted: 3/31/2015 12:48:55 PM EDT
[#1]
I would load 1 at a time and fire if your not set on removing them. Primer pockets need more reaming to get rid of the crimp. Some of those look pretty deep that you might not get primer strike. If you haven't loaded them yet, I would pick out the worst one and fire it empty to see if your rifle will fire it. If it doesn't, at least you don't have a loaded round you have to deal with. I got a tip from a 50 reloader that he used the chamfer tool point to ream his. Been doing it since. Still use the other tools to clean them out but haven't had a problem. Good luck.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 3:24:08 PM EDT
[#2]
I mangled a few myself when I first started working with the 50 BMG case. I now use a non ferrous metal countersink, available at any tool dealer for about 7 bucks, in a battery drill to quickly remove the military crimp. I was using the chamfer tool for reaming but it was killing my fingers and was very slow. I follow up with a primer pocket truing tool that I think I got at CH4D. The few that I mangled went bang with no issues but mine weren't as bad as some of yours. My only priming issue now is with PMC brass for some reason. Those pockets are damn tight even after truing a few times
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Posted: 3/31/2015 9:39:37 PM EDT
[#3]
Keep in mind: a "mangled" (damaged) primer likely isn't as strong as an undamaged primer. If the primer does rupture/pop the amount of superheated gas coming out of the back of a BMG case WILL damage/plasma cut your bolt face. The cost of a new bolt Vs. the cost of correctly reinstalling a primer would make me fix it before I tried to fire one that was boogered up. Its only about twenty cents afterall. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 10:12:00 PM EDT
[#4]
Now that is one ugly photo.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 10:40:29 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
http://www.nranz.com/uploads/news/Gas%20Cut%20Bolt%20Face2.jpg Keep in mind: a "mangled" (damaged) primer likely isn't as strong as an undamaged primer. If the primer does rupture/pop the amount of superheated gas coming out of the back of a BMG case WILL damage/plasma cut your bolt face. The cost of a new bolt Vs. the cost of correctly reinstalling a primer would make me fix it before I tried to fire one that was boogered up. Its only about twenty cents afterall. Yikes! Now that might be enough to make me remove and replace some of those primers. You're right-- a bolt isn't worth a few bucks in primers. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 5:10:38 AM EDT
[#6]
Before designing and making my own primer pocket swaging tool, I cut the crimp out using a RCBS or Wilson neck chamfering tool. I cut to about a 1/16" wide face which allowed my K&M primer pocket uniformer to enter, sometimes very tightly until I learned the trick of reversing the drill-motor until tool had entered pocket.
After cleaning the pocket to size and depth, I lightly polish edges with Scotch-Brite to ease primer entry. Priming - I use a 2-step method that most reloaders reject BUT it has worked very well for me. Designed for use with CCI#35 primers but works well with IMI and RWS primers as well. First step involves using the RCBS CUPPED priming pin designed for use with the CCI#35 primers to seat the primer to bottom of pocket ensuring anvil of primer is seated at bottom of pocket . This prevents any soft hits that move the primer prior to firing the primer, which will cause ignition errors. Second step involves using a FLAT priming punch to ARM the primer while flattening the rounded surface of CCI#35 primers to 0.003-0.008" below face of case head. (A 70% flat primer face is desirable.) Arming involves compressing the primer material closer to the anvil tip internally to provide more consistent flash upon firing a primer into your powder charge. This was initially only required for light-strike firearms but proved to be an accuracy process for all firearms. Blue Box CCI#35 primers were recalled several years ago due to cracks in cup causing bolt faces to be cut very similar to one as shown in previous picture. Contact CCI for recalled lot numbers and for their offer to repair bolts by manufacturer. If no response, I may be able to find the lot numbers referenced, so you may dispose of properly. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 8:41:52 AM EDT
[#7]
If you could track down the bad blue-box CCI primer lot numbers that would be great.
I still have about 1800 of them on the shelf... I have a personal HATE for the new white box CCI "Arsenal" primers (They aren't as round as the old ones -resulting in shavings being produced sometimes when seating) ...and have since had a wild love affair with the Tula primers. Inexpensive!, good shape that seats well, good/consistant ignition characteristics I was a sceptic at first (anything cheap related to the 50 is suspect!) but they have won me over. 
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Posted: 4/1/2015 9:16:57 AM EDT
[#8]
To start out with, most of the E lots were suspect. If you have these I would contact CCI, they'll exchange them for the arsenal primers.
Here's a partial list I have, E23A, E13J, C06J, J29E, K16B, C12E, C12J. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 9:25:24 AM EDT
[#9]
If you're a member of the FCSA, you can search their site. All of this came up back in 2003 or so if I remember correctly and there was plenty of talk about it there.
Any of the members here that are FCSA members can do a search there and find the lot numbers. Or call CCI and ask, I'm sure they'll help you out. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 10:49:35 AM EDT
[#10]
DO NOT try to deprime live.primers. put them in the gun and shoot them. There have been numerous injuries from decapping live .50 primers, one very recently.
And be careful with a 45 degree chamfer tool as you can remove too much metal. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 1:54:58 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
DO NOT try to deprime live.primers. put them in the gun and shoot them. There have been numerous injuries from decapping live .50 primers, one very recently. And be careful with a 45 degree chamfer tool as you can remove too much metal. Ya, I know better than that, especially with a 50. I'll probably pull about 20 of them or so. You guys are more than right-- $15 worth of primers isn't worth risking damage to the rifle or my face. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 9:21:32 PM EDT
[#12]
So I pulled 12 to shoot the primers. On the third one I had a failure to extract, with the case stuck HARD in the chamber. I'm still baffled as to how a primer can stick a case, but I figured out why the case failed to extract in the first place-- the extractor broke!!!!!
You guys were right-- I'm glad I fired those primers (well, the three I got through). That third one really made me realize the good decision you talked me into. I think what happened is the primer failed, and shot gas back across the bolt. Whether or not this is related to the failure of the extractor, I'm not sure. There is soot on the base of the case and the face of the bolt, but little to none around the extractor area. I am extremely lucky that this happened with just a primer. Had this happened with a live round it's likely to have caused far more damage to the rifle if not the shooter. As for the rifle-- how is Barrett's warranty service? I'd rather not have to mail back an entire M99 just for an extractor. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 9:46:19 PM EDT
[#13]
Some nasty looking primers. I would personally never fire them in my M99. I'd probably fire the unloaded case in my rifle to see if the primers ignite, without powder or bullet. I highly recommend K&M's primer pocket uniformer to cut the pockets to the same depth. https://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/50-caliber-bmg-tools/cal-50-bmg_primer-pocket-correction-tool.html LC cases I've loaded in the last couple years have a lot of shallow pockets. I also hate the newer Arsenal domed primers. You have to have the pocket depths uniform and remove ALL the military crimp or you will have problems seating and arming the Arsenal primers. Bring back the Blue Box primers!
A work of caution IF you do load and shoot and get a misfire. If a round does not fire, WAIT at least a minute or even two with the 50 before opening the bolt. When opening the bolt with your hand after a misfire, ALWAYS keep all fingers PLUS your thumb in front of the bolt handle. Should a round ignite while you open the bolt it will kick the bolt rearward with enough speed and force to remove your thumb or wrist if they are placed behind the bolt handle. A CCI Tech said to use the flat primer seating punch on the domed primers and slightly flatten the dome for proper ignition. Always check your primer seating punch for slivers of brass or you'll also leave marks on your next primer. |
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Posted: 4/2/2015 1:41:25 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I pulled 12 to shoot the primers. On the third one I had a failure to extract, with the case stuck HARD in the chamber. I'm still baffled as to how a primer can stick a case, but I figured out why the case failed to extract in the first place-- the extractor broke!!!!! You guys were right-- I'm glad I fired those primers (well, the three I got through). That third one really made me realize the good decision you talked me into. I think what happened is the primer failed, and shot gas back across the bolt. Whether or not this is related to the failure of the extractor, I'm not sure. There is soot on the base of the case and the face of the bolt, but little to none around the extractor area. I am extremely lucky that this happened with just a primer. Had this happened with a live round it's likely to have caused far more damage to the rifle if not the shooter. As for the rifle-- how is Barrett's warranty service? I'd rather not have to mail back an entire M99 just for an extractor. I think "oh crap!" AND "thank goodness" both apply here!!! Very sorry to hear about the extractor. Also very glad you chose to not load that one up. I was talking to an engineer with a masters degree in risk analyses about decapping live primers and spent Berdan primers about a week ago. We came up with a napkin drawing of a hydraulic fixture that would use water to slowly/gently push them out. We've yet to build one (or even finalize the design) but this makes me want to go forward with the idea all the more. I've never worked on an M99, but they are a fine rifle, I would think extractor replacement would be a very straightforward process on them. On the Serbu you can actually push it out with just thumb pressure! (Be careful if you try -the little bearing ball and spring behind it will come shooting out and you will lose the little ball, and cuss too... :D Once again Swampy, THANK YOU for playing it safe. And sorry about the damage too. |
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Posted: 4/2/2015 10:38:41 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think "oh crap!" AND "thank goodness" both apply here!!! Very sorry to hear about the extractor. Also very glad you chose to not load that one up. I was talking to an engineer with a masters degree in risk analyses about decapping live primers and spent Berdan primers about a week ago. We came up with a napkin drawing of a hydraulic fixture that would use water to slowly/gently push them out. We've yet to build one (or even finalize the design) but this makes me want to go forward with the idea all the more. I've never worked on an M99, but they are a fine rifle, I would think extractor replacement would be a very straightforward process on them. On the Serbu you can actually push it out with just thumb pressure! (Be careful if you try -the little bearing ball and spring behind it will come shooting out and you will lose the little ball, and cuss too... :D Once again Swampy, THANK YOU for playing it safe. And sorry about the damage too. Funny you mention the hydraulic technique, I just watched a video on this last week. https://youtu.be/GwmmsZ-aX4g This guy is doing berdan primed steel cases, but I imagine the process would be the same for 50 brass. |
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Posted: 4/2/2015 11:49:20 AM EDT
[#16]
With all due respect, the primers I saw in your pictures were so mangled they didn't look worth saving.
I'm glad you decided to play it safe. I really don't see the benefit to building something to remove them hydraulically. Just fire them and punch them out conventionally. I do know this, after having one detonate while seating it, BMG primers scare the stuffing out of me. And I load 5-700 a year of match ammo and ball. |
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Posted: 4/2/2015 12:05:40 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
...I really don't see the benefit to building something to remove them hydraulically. Just fire them and punch them out conventionally... A) It would be safe for live primers B) It would not make noise (some folks live in apartments) C) Popping a primer in your gun makes a sooty mess in the barrel/chamber. D) Aparently it is possible to fuck your extractor if it is a badly mangled primer. E) On tough military crimps it eliminates the chance to break a decapping pin. F) when you come across the occasional Berdan primed brass you wouldn't break it either. That's all the good reasons I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure there are others.
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Posted: 4/2/2015 1:08:15 PM EDT
[#18]
If you can't do it at home, take your firearm to the range and pop the primers.
That's what I will do NOW. Water in a case will not kill a primer, don't ask how I know that. I've heard that oils will not reliably kill them either. The only sure way is to pop them. The power of 1 primer going off will scare you, The power of 71 going off at once, will .......................................................................................... |
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Posted: 4/2/2015 4:45:26 PM EDT
[#19]
I also know water won't kill a primer -I've tried it!
The Tula primers are sealed on the face (inside) with a foil... I doubt oil could get through that either. What water can do is push evenly and gently. And if the widget was designed right, even with an accidental ignition it would be safe. That is one of the things that would have to be tested before offered for sale. 
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Posted: 4/2/2015 7:33:31 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
With all due respect, the primers I saw in your pictures were so mangled they didn't look worth saving. I'm glad you decided to play it safe. I really don't see the benefit to building something to remove them hydraulically. Just fire them and punch them out conventionally. I do know this, after having one detonate while seating it, BMG primers scare the stuffing out of me. And I load 5-700 a year of match ammo and ball. I gained a healthy (healthier) respect for BMG primers after I fired the first one and it sounded like a 22LR. As for the hydraulic apparatus, we're not talking about anything more than filling a case with water, and using something to seal the mouth and apply pressure. |
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Posted: 4/2/2015 10:07:32 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A) It would be safe for live primers B) It would not make noise (some folks live in apartments) C) Popping a primer in your gun makes a sooty mess in the barrel/chamber. D) Aparently it is possible to fuck your extractor if it is a badly mangled primer. E) On tough military crimps it eliminates the chance to break a decapping pin. F) when you come across the occasional Berdan primed brass you wouldn't break it either. That's all the good reasons I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure there are others.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
...I really don't see the benefit to building something to remove them hydraulically. Just fire them and punch them out conventionally... A) It would be safe for live primers B) It would not make noise (some folks live in apartments) C) Popping a primer in your gun makes a sooty mess in the barrel/chamber. D) Aparently it is possible to fuck your extractor if it is a badly mangled primer. E) On tough military crimps it eliminates the chance to break a decapping pin. F) when you come across the occasional Berdan primed brass you wouldn't break it either. That's all the good reasons I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure there are others.
Not a pissing contest. If you want to create such an animal, I'd like to see it. But as long as I live on some land where I can shoot and don't mind swabbing a barrel, i'll punch them out.
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Posted: 4/5/2015 11:17:18 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not a pissing contest. If you want to create such an animal, I'd like to see it. But as long as I live on some land where I can shoot and don't mind swabbing a barrel, i'll punch them out.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
...I really don't see the benefit to building something to remove them hydraulically. Just fire them and punch them out conventionally... A) It would be safe for live primers B) It would not make noise (some folks live in apartments) C) Popping a primer in your gun makes a sooty mess in the barrel/chamber. D) Aparently it is possible to fuck your extractor if it is a badly mangled primer. E) On tough military crimps it eliminates the chance to break a decapping pin. F) when you come across the occasional Berdan primed brass you wouldn't break it either. That's all the good reasons I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure there are others.
Not a pissing contest. If you want to create such an animal, I'd like to see it. But as long as I live on some land where I can shoot and don't mind swabbing a barrel, i'll punch them out.
No pissing match intended. You stated you couldn't see the benefit, I stated a handful off the top of my head. If the concept doesn't have use for some, that's ok. |
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Posted: 4/5/2015 6:59:37 PM EDT
[#23]
I just got back to loading more. I ran the counter sink at the opening of the pocket and ran the reamer in the pocket again too, and I'm STILL having the same problem. I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. I've never had issues like this. I've ruined almost $20 worth of primers as well as the extractor on my rifle. WTF??
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Posted: 4/5/2015 7:29:54 PM EDT
[#24]
What press are you using?
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Posted: 4/5/2015 7:50:38 PM EDT
[#25]
Lee classic cast. I'm thinking I need to get a pocket uniformer. I did a bit of reading and am I right in saying LC pockets are not deep enough sometimes?
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Posted: 4/5/2015 9:41:46 PM EDT
[#26]
Can you post a pic if the priming rod? Looking at that last pic, it almost looks like its to small. I have the Lee 50BMG press and the so called plate the prime sits on to ram into the primer hole is just as round as the primer. Can post a pic if need be to show what I am talking about.
Decided to post some pics of mine. 
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Posted: 4/5/2015 10:09:31 PM EDT
[#27]
Well, I think I found my problem. Looks like my reamer isn't getting deep enough into the pocket. I think the primers are hitting the unreamed part and that's where they're getting stuck.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/IMG_20150405_205651.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/IMG_20150405_205723.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/IMG_20150405_205734.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/IMG_20150405_205801.jpg |
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Posted: 4/5/2015 10:44:50 PM EDT
[#28]
Your chamfer tool is of incorrect angle and chatters too much.
The tool shown with the primer is the flash hole reamer by K&M which is used down thru the neck to ream flash hole to consistent size and cut a radius on corner. You do not have a primer pocket uniformer tool pictured at all - refer to K&M site for correct tools and usage. You definitely need some training! |
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Posted: 4/6/2015 10:54:02 PM EDT
[#29]
I never got an email back from Barrett, so I called them today. They're going to RMA the extractor. The tech I talked to made it sound like they've had problems lately with M99s with broken extractors. Anyone else have issues? May be something M99 owners should BOLO for.
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Posted: 4/7/2015 3:02:39 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I never got an email back from Barrett, so I called them today. They're going to RMA the extractor. The tech I talked to made it sound like they've had problems lately with M99s with broken extractors. Anyone else have issues? May be something M99 owners should BOLO for. How many rounds have you shot? I may have about 100 through mine. I don't pull my bolt back fast enough to send the brass flying. |
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Posted: 4/7/2015 4:55:09 AM EDT
[#31]
Get this tool..... http://www.midwayusa.com/product/846599/lyman-50-bmg-multi-tool .
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Posted: 4/7/2015 9:56:52 AM EDT
[#32]
None. Those primers are the only thing shot through the rifle.
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Posted: 4/7/2015 10:21:01 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
None. Those primers are the only thing shot through the rifle. I guess you are the first owner. If yes, when did you get yours? I bought my January 2014. |
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Posted: 4/8/2015 11:02:09 PM EDT
[#34]
I took delivery on it at the end of last month, and yes it was a NIB rifle.
I got the K&M primer correction tool. I'm still having issues getting some primers in, but it definitely helped. I only and enough time to do 10 quick test cases, I'll do a bigger run tomorrow. |
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Posted: 4/9/2015 6:35:13 AM EDT
[#35]
Okay. I wonder if mine might be one of the ones that might have the problem. I've never had a problem pulling the bolt back though.
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Posted: 4/9/2015 8:37:43 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Get this tool..... http://www.midwayusa.com/product/846599/lyman-50-bmg-multi-tool . ....and spin the ends off and put them on this; http://www.midwayusa.com/product/211733/lyman-case-prep-xpress-case-prep-center-115-volt that speeds case prep up by a factor of 10. |
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Posted: 4/9/2015 10:12:56 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
....and spin the ends off and put them on this; http://www.midwayusa.com/product/211733/lyman-case-prep-xpress-case-prep-center-115-volt that speeds case prep up by a factor of 10. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Get this tool..... http://www.midwayusa.com/product/846599/lyman-50-bmg-multi-tool . ....and spin the ends off and put them on this; http://www.midwayusa.com/product/211733/lyman-case-prep-xpress-case-prep-center-115-volt that speeds case prep up by a factor of 10. On my list of future purchases. Just did 150 pieces of 50 brass and my hand is soar as hell. Between hand crank trimming these monsters and taking care of the primer pockets, my hand can't take much more abuse. 
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Posted: 4/9/2015 12:34:57 PM EDT
[#38]
I'm the guy wearing a 50 BMG primer about 1 inch deep on my right side. It hit me in the belly button and traveled about 8 inches in the fat layer around my gut. I thought I had killed it with oil. Oldman is right it does not work effectively. It is about like getting shot with a .22 LR. So be careful and always pop the primer in your rifle.
how to print screen on pc |
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Posted: 4/9/2015 2:16:08 PM EDT
[#39]
Where's the pic?
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Posted: 4/9/2015 9:43:45 PM EDT
[#40]
You say you're reaming the opening and then running a reamer into the pocket. Then you say you think you need a uniformer?
What reamer are you running into the pocket? A uniformer is better, run it into the pocket until it bottoms out. Try K&M for the proper tools. |
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Posted: 4/9/2015 10:29:29 PM EDT
[#41]
I have the K&M uniformer. Not sure what else I need. I loaded 100 to completion today. About 50% have ugly primers, but not so bad I don't think they're safe. Generally they required extra force to seat all the way and are flat, sometimes with some metal squished up around where the punch pressed them. No sign that the primer lost material on its way into the pocket.
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Posted: 4/10/2015 6:00:55 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have the K&M uniformer. Not sure what else I need. I loaded 100 to completion today. About 50% have ugly primers, but not so bad I don't think they're safe. Generally they required extra force to seat all the way and are flat, sometimes with some metal squished up around where the punch pressed them. No sign that the primer lost material on its way into the pocket. In all seriousness, and please don't be offended, but I suspect you're not using the pocket uniformer right. I found, through experience with it, it often taked several "tries" to get all the material out of the bottom of the pocket. I ran the tool into the pocket and felt it cut, then the tool would "smooth out" (I use a Dewalt cordless screwdriver) and the motor would pick up speed because it was done. Except it wasn't done. After removing the tool, and clearing the chips I would seat a primer and... the pocket was still too shallow. It sometimes takes a few stabs at the same hole to get the tool where it no longer removes any material. Now I do it by habbit. I no longer have primer pocket issues at all. If you do this and STILL are having problems I would take a long hard look at whatever you're using to seat them, how it is set up, or maybe just replace it altogether. |
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Posted: 4/10/2015 8:27:58 AM EDT
[#43]
If you can, post a pic of a finished brass that you have just finished cleaning out the primer pocket. Hard to get a close up but try. Will post one of mine after cleaning and then primed shortly. Also, if you know someone who reloads 50 BMG and close by, maybe have them check out your setup and watch while you do one. Second set of eyes always help.
Here is a set, prepped, primed, fired. 
What primers are you using? Oh, BTW, reread your post on 225 gr WC860 your planing on loading. Might want to back off that and start at 215 and go up. I just fired 220 gr with ball rounds and primers where showing a little flattened. |
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Posted: 4/10/2015 8:45:08 AM EDT
[#44]
Figures, I was writing and the damn phone goes out!
Here's what we should do, lets do an experiment. If we can get a few guys to send you a few cases each to do this. You can take pics, measurements and all that stuff of each person's to compare to yours. Prime them and see what happens as you go along. If they prime without any problems then all you need to do is adjust your style. If you have problems then you need to adjust or replace your tooling. If you want to do this PM me your address and I'll send you a few pieces of prepped brass. If anyone else wants in just PM your address to them and we'll get this experiment going. Let me know as I think we need to figure this out before you give up on reloading for the big gun. |
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Posted: 4/10/2015 10:49:43 AM EDT
[#45]
I'll send one if you want one.
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Posted: 4/12/2015 12:07:47 PM EDT
[#46]
Ok, I'm pretty much at a "smash things" level of frustration. I took the advice that was presented here and did MULTIPLE passes with the primer pocket correction tool. This is the result:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150412_104845.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150412_104852.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150412_104858.jpg Looks pretty nice? Clean, uniformly deep, no major burrs, etc. This was the first 5 cases I primed. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150412_105731.jpg I am at a loss. I have no clue what I am doing wrong. I have reloaded THOUSANDS of rounds of ammo in other calibers, and even at the very beginning I never had even CLOSE to the problems I am having with 50 BMG. My first 100 that I loaded look like this too. I'm pretty sure they're safe to fire, but look like hell and I know that's not how they're supposed to be. I'm not sure what else to do! In other news, remember when you guys were talking about how the K&M cutter makes razors on the case mouths? Yup. Sliced my hand open good today when I was cleaning the pockets. Stupid me for not wearing gloves, but then after I patched myself up, this happened! http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150412_104700.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150412_104714.jpg http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e86/ibdmentd/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150412_104723.jpg |
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Posted: 4/12/2015 2:56:06 PM EDT
[#47]
pretty sure I am right on my thinking here. Looks like your primers are going in fine. BUT, you depth in the primer pocket is not correct and your mashing them in. My next question is how much resistance are you getting when pressing them in? Can you press with a continued stroke until you feel it where you think its bottomed out and stop? My guess is you will have primer above the case head just a little bit. I get the primer up to the case head slowly until contact, then press down and feel the primer go in. Can always tell if I didn't get the primer pockets totally cleaned of the crimp and get more resistance. Othyer thing I can think of is your pressing to hard after its in and mashing the shit out of them. thats why I ask if you can press just enough until you think the primer just bottoms out and stop, then look to see how they look. If your one of those bench press 800 pound guys, you may not realize your own strength and just mashing away. Wish someone who reloads 50 bmg was close by to come check your setup and watch you load some. Don't give up. We all can help you figure this out.
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Posted: 4/12/2015 3:51:55 PM EDT
[#48]
Yes, it goes in smoothly the first ¾ of the way, then I have to force it the rest. I can't even remove the case from the holder unless I mash it in.
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Posted: 4/12/2015 4:48:21 PM EDT
[#49]
I have used an 8mm Cutting Diameter Straight 6 Flute Carbide End Reamer from Amazon. that is the description they use for the reamer and have used it on brass from Talon-1945 manufacture and newer Lake City. Just chamfered the crimp first and then used variable speed drill to ream the primer pocket. I had newer LC 13 that one of my primers looked like yours and used a vernier caliper to measure the pocket and found it to be way undersize for the primer to fit. Just my 2 cents worth.
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Posted: 4/12/2015 6:40:02 PM EDT
[#50]
It looks to me like you aren't taking enough of the military crimp out. Try reaming a little deeper on just a few of them and see if those primers will give less resistance. I had this problem when I first started case prep for the 50 but not to your degree. Also, you need to clean the brass shavings from your ram prime after each primer set. I use a Q-tip and swirl it in the pocket before loading a fresh primer in. I get shavings on about every third one. Just running a primer pocket uniformer isn't enough. You have to get rid of all that crimp. Just make sure you don't go too far. This may solve your problem but may harm CCI's stock price
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