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Posted: 3/21/2014 3:16:49 AM EDT
[#1]
The Raufoss should have a noticeably different taper on the projectile, appearing fatter.
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Posted: 3/21/2014 4:49:28 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The Raufoss should have a noticeably different taper on the projectile, appearing fatter. Lay one down next to a ball, AP, or API round and you should see a definite difference in the profile and tip of the Raufoss round. It is a little wider than all the others. |
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Posted: 3/21/2014 4:53:55 PM EDT
[#3]
Post some pics.
I started a thread about this a few years back. There is a lot of good info in it. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_3/335255_Raufoss__50_BMG_explosive_rounds.html |
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Posted: 3/21/2014 6:05:26 PM EDT
[#4]
This is the picture from the website. Are those prices worth it or should I continue looking around?
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Posted: 3/21/2014 10:16:01 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is the picture from the website. Are those prices worth it or should I continue looking around? http://i.imgur.com/UOEP8G3.jpg The bullet looks correct. |
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Posted: 3/21/2014 11:56:28 PM EDT
[#6]
Think the prices are a bit too high
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Posted: 3/22/2014 3:21:48 AM EDT
[#7]
SLAP is to high, shop around and find a better price. Raufoss is toss up, you can shop around but even the minimum is gonna be $40 on a good day. That's watching every place that sells them and waiting for a sale. 13 years ago I got my first one for $15 and only got one because the seller wanted as many collectors to get one and not just someone that was gonna resell at an inflated price.
I still have it and a couple friends to go with it not to mention a bunch of others that are collectable. If you plan on shooting them then buy in bulk. Also make sure you can shoot them where ever you intend to. Most ranges don't allow steel core, AP, API... and if you go out in the middle of nowhere, you better be ready to become a firefighter! You'd be surprised how fast an API can start a fire and I don't mean a little piece of paper on fire. I mean an "OH SHIT" fire! If you can handle that then have fun and DON'T record it to show your buddies how cool you are. Just find some cool stuff to punch some large holes in and remember why its so much fun. If your buddies want to see how cool it is, tell them to come and watch. All those cool little recordings always tend to end up in some fucktard anti-gun speech about why we shouldn't have them. Or if you're in the wrong place and get caught they just use it to hang you with. So remember that when someone pulls out their iPhone and starts recording YOU shooting. Other then that just have fun shooting them or displaying them for others to check out. It's kinda cool to see a live one next to a chunk of steel with a big ass hole in it. 
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Posted: 4/12/2014 9:00:21 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is the picture from the website. Are those prices worth it or should I continue looking around? http://i.imgur.com/UOEP8G3.jpg Cdvs? |
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Posted: 4/16/2014 10:03:24 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Is there a way to know if a raufoss round is real without doing an x-ray or cutting it apart? I found a place that supposedly has single rounds for $60 each. They say the headstamp is WCC. They also have SLAP and SLAP-T rounds for $50 each. Is that a good price? I want them for collection purposes. Same goes for the raufoss round. PM me the link? I want some Raufoss to shoot. |
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Posted: 4/16/2014 9:59:26 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
PM me the link? I want some Raufoss to shoot. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Is there a way to know if a raufoss round is real without doing an x-ray or cutting it apart? I found a place that supposedly has single rounds for $60 each. They say the headstamp is WCC. They also have SLAP and SLAP-T rounds for $50 each. Is that a good price? I want them for collection purposes. Same goes for the raufoss round. PM me the link? I want some Raufoss to shoot. it is CDVS.us |
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Posted: 4/18/2014 10:57:46 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
it is CDVS.us Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Is there a way to know if a raufoss round is real without doing an x-ray or cutting it apart? I found a place that supposedly has single rounds for $60 each. They say the headstamp is WCC. They also have SLAP and SLAP-T rounds for $50 each. Is that a good price? I want them for collection purposes. Same goes for the raufoss round. PM me the link? I want some Raufoss to shoot. it is CDVS.us CDVS has the correct items. They are priced pretty high though. |
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Posted: 5/8/2014 9:41:25 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lay one down next to a ball, AP, or API round and you should see a definite difference in the profile and tip of the Raufoss round. It is a little wider than all the others. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The Raufoss should have a noticeably different taper on the projectile, appearing fatter. Lay one down next to a ball, AP, or API round and you should see a definite difference in the profile and tip of the Raufoss round. It is a little wider than all the others. I don't see what you both are referring to...? API-T on top and Mk 211 on bottom. 
These are leftover un-fired from armor testing by an armor manufacturer. ~Will |
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Posted: 5/15/2014 1:35:08 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The bullet looks correct. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
This is the picture from the website. Are those prices worth it or should I continue looking around? http://i.imgur.com/UOEP8G3.jpg The bullet looks correct. looks like the ones i had... 
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Posted: 5/15/2014 10:58:56 PM EDT
[#14]
You have a Lake CITY 09 case on the top and a Greek case on the bottom. I have not seen any 09 Roufas yet. Do a search, some one posted a side by side picture before and there is a very noticeable difference between the API and Roufas. I think it was the post where some one had theirs x-rayed. There are a lot of fake ones being sold for big bucks on line.
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Posted: 5/15/2014 11:06:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Ball, Tracer, AP, Incendiary, API, APIT, S/T, MP (raufoss), SLAP, SLAP-T, AMAX, practice/tracer
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Posted: 5/15/2014 11:15:39 PM EDT
[#16]
The US made MK211 is green over a white / cream color, and as far as I know most of the ones in circulation are WCC stamped.
The Greek HPX is green over silver. Ohio Ordinance had a bunch of them over the last few years. The tip on the API/apit is pointy-er than the mk211. You can tell easily with them side by side. I can see it in that picture. Almost all of the fakes I've seen were regular silver API with some bad green paint on the tip. |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 1:44:05 PM EDT
[#17]
The Mk211 is the HXP 89 headstamp - the API is the LC 09
Mk211 
API 
SAIC RTR-4 w/ GOLDEN Xr200 - 1 pulse at 8 inches |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 2:00:52 PM EDT
[#18]
More pics.
Just showing that without paint markings to assist, it is VERY difficult to ascertain what round is what. Some folks say that the shape can easily discern which round is which, I DISAGREE! I don't have much for image manipulation, but, if one were to change these photos into B&W and then OUTLINE while erasing paint markings, it would be almost impossible WITHOUT HAVING THEM SIDE BY SIDE and KNOWING which is WHICH! X-rays are the awesomeness though! ~Will |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 2:55:06 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Is there a way to know if a raufoss round is real without doing an x-ray or cutting it apart? I found a place that supposedly has single rounds for $60 each. They say the headstamp is WCC. They also have SLAP and SLAP-T rounds for $50 each. Is that a good price? I want them for collection purposes. Same goes for the raufoss round. YES, it could be done with a visual comparison with a KNOWN Mk211 Raufoss round AND a trained eye. Other than that, X-rays and also FIRING it and KNOWING what to look for, NO, I do NOT believe there is an ADEQUATE means for someone to discern off handed or by using even a picture, as angles and lighting play tricks on the eyes. There is legit stuff out there, it is rare, and it is EXPENSIVE. ~Will |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 3:54:29 PM EDT
[#20]
While I agree about being able to tell Raufoss from other rounds, most tracer and API rounds have two cannalures in them. Keith Pagel would have to answer this but I think the top cannalure was to help seal the API and keep the jacket from attached to the core.
If you look at the Raufoss the profile of the bullet is fatter all the way to the tip and the tip is fatter then any other .50 round. So if you have an API or APIT round and someone tries to sell you something that has the profile of either of these, call them on their BS and walk. Now, if you buy online make sure they have a solid return policy. Companies with a solid rep to protect won't sell fakes, dickwads on GB or other auction sites have the ability to screw you over. When in doubt, ask! If you plan on spending $50+ or more for one, the last thing you want is to get screwed over. |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 9:22:46 PM EDT
[#21]
To .50 Shooter's comment on cannelures.
The one on the bullet at the case mouth is for crimping the case mouth into the bullet to lock the bullet into position, keep it from being pushed back into the case. MilSpec is a 200 pound pull force to move the bullet, so the cannelure, crimp, and case mouth sealant is to meet that requirement. The mouth sealant also provides water proofing. Any additional cannelures serve an identification purpose (the ID cannelure). Sometimes that extra cannelure is only for the mfgr to help them ID lots or whatever. Allowed at their discretion. It's also been used to help ID the differences in bullet model changes. When they went from M2 Ball to M33 Ball, for example, the early M33 ball rounds had the extra cannelure, so you could tell the rounds apart in that era. It got dropped when they felt all the M2 Ball rounds had been shot up out of inventory. Finally, for military requirements, US at least, foreign may be a different matter, an extra cannelure is applied to the Tracer variant of a round, M17 Tracer vs Ball, M20 APIT vs M8 API, etc. It's a way of telling the load in low light or if the tip color is too badly worn, etc. Again, these aren't hard and fast rules, many exceptions. (Some early WW2 tracers didn't have the extra ID cannelure for instance.) The UK, for example, went crazy with bullet cannelures in the 50's and 60's. Some have 3, 4 or more cannelures. Regarding Raufoss ID, ONE way I use to ID real vs fake Raufoss is by bullet shape, but there are other tells as well. |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 10:10:50 PM EDT
[#22]
You start with one round and they grow friends, better to have many to compare too
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Posted: 5/29/2014 1:34:09 AM EDT
[#23]
Thanks Keith for adding info on the extra cannalures, got any pics of foreign ammo with multiple cannalures? I know I would like to see them, I'm sure guys here would also as it would help ID ammo.
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Posted: 5/29/2014 8:23:05 PM EDT
[#24]
One exception to what I wrote that I thought of last night.....
To your comment about incendiary..... While the API cannelures (if any) don't have anything to do with locking the internal components together, the old WW2 M1 Incend Blue tip had a significant ID cannelure, knurled, that was there to hold the guts together. (Probably what you were thinking.) The Remington and Utah M1 (Alternate) Incendiary designs also had ID cannelures, but very small ones as their bullet designs didn't require locking multiple internal components together like the Frankfort Arsenal design that is the more commonly known Blue tip Incend design. I'm not sure why those other 2 plants had ID cannelures on their Blue tip Incend designs, but they included them. (They were so small, the looked more like a scratch around the bullet.) |
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Posted: 5/30/2014 7:56:39 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You start with one round and they grow friends, better to have many to compare too http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/photobucket-19131-1388109881878_zpsdcce260a.jpg What is the headstamp on that lot? That's as much $$ in ammo as a Barrett - isn't it? ~Will |
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Posted: 5/31/2014 10:03:14 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You start with one round and they grow friends, better to have many to compare too http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/photobucket-19131-1388109881878_zpsdcce260a.jpg It's...........beautiful. 
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Posted: 6/1/2014 1:21:42 PM EDT
[#27]
" f n g" Here. Sorry not A hijack,. On MK211 pulls, do they need to be resized before reloading. I have come in to a box full of pulls and loaded.. thanks for any info.
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Posted: 6/1/2014 1:30:43 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
" f n g" Here. Sorry not A hijack,. On MK211 pulls, do they need to be resized before reloading. I have come in to a box full of pulls and loaded.. thanks for any info. I would resize them if you aren't sure. I ran thru some sized ones I bought just to be sure. I use the LEE sizer. |
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Posted: 6/1/2014 4:10:52 PM EDT
[#29]
Quack,
I see you list CA as your home, these are illegal even just the projos. So I know you have them in another state waiting for you to resize them there. Don't bring them into CA unless you want to lose your gun rights, spend a lot of money staying out of jail... Shoot them in AZ or NV if that's where they're waiting for you. |
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Posted: 6/2/2014 8:32:26 AM EDT
[#30]
Carguym14 Thanks 50 Shooter ,Living on the border makes it nice. Thanks
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Posted: 6/2/2014 10:19:54 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quack, I see you list CA as your home, these are illegal even just the projos. So I know you have them in another state waiting for you to resize them there. Don't bring them into CA unless you want to lose your gun rights, spend a lot of money staying out of jail... Shoot them in AZ or NV if that's where they're waiting for you. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quack, I see you list CA as your home, these are illegal even just the projos. So I know you have them in another state waiting for you to resize them there. Don't bring them into CA unless you want to lose your gun rights, spend a lot of money staying out of jail... Shoot them in AZ or NV if that's where they're waiting for you. Wow. Did a little more searching and found this: Exploding Ammunition: Eight states (California, Florida, Hawaii, Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, New York and Tennessee) prohibit the manufacture, transfer, purchase, and/or possession of bullets or projectiles that are designed to explode, segment or detonate upon impact with a target. Know your local laws! ~Will |
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Posted: 6/2/2014 12:41:58 PM EDT
[#32]
Ain't no lie brother, and CA is a MoFo if they catch you! They make it a habit of making an example out of you.
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Posted: 6/4/2014 10:14:00 AM EDT
[#33]
They must not enforce the laws as my Raufoss rds came from florida.
Gunshops sold API and APIT all the time Free Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wow. Did a little more searching and found this: Know your local laws! ~Will Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quack, I see you list CA as your home, these are illegal even just the projos. So I know you have them in another state waiting for you to resize them there. Don't bring them into CA unless you want to lose your gun rights, spend a lot of money staying out of jail... Shoot them in AZ or NV if that's where they're waiting for you. Wow. Did a little more searching and found this: Exploding Ammunition: Eight states (California, Florida, Hawaii, Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, New York and Tennessee) prohibit the manufacture, transfer, purchase, and/or possession of bullets or projectiles that are designed to explode, segment or detonate upon impact with a target. Know your local laws! ~Will |
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Posted: 6/5/2014 10:25:21 PM EDT
[#34]
Ignorance of the law doesn't preclude a person from prosecution.
Yeah, its about ENFORCEMENT. AP and API are not considered EXPLOSIVE rounds. Raufoss Mk 211 ? Beats me, glad I live in Utah though! I wouldn't confess in public to something possibly criminal though, the internet is just as public as the police station lobby. Just me though. ~Will |
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Posted: 6/6/2014 12:54:45 AM EDT
[#35]
Ball and AP are legal in CA, anything that goes boom, starts a fire... its illegal to have. And its not worth losing your rights over, keep them in a state that allows you to be a citizen and not an over taxed subject.
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