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Posted: 8/15/2012 8:58:58 PM
[Last Edit: 8/15/2012 9:06:14 PM by ARsR4ME]
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT Load: psd brass, cci#35, 218 h-50, coal 5.75".
My bolt got pitted
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Posted: 8/16/2012 5:03:23 AM
Did your primer come from a white arsenal CCI box or a blue and silver?
Have you cleaned the bolt face and inspected for cracks? |
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Posted: 8/16/2012 9:52:25 AM
Originally Posted By subwofer2:
Did your primer come from a white arsenal CCI box or a blue and silver? Have you cleaned the bolt face and inspected for cracks? White box, I didnt see any cracks just pitted from the wash out |
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Posted: 8/16/2012 1:21:12 PM
Could you post a pic of what a few of your typical primers-in-the-pocket look like?
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Posted: 8/16/2012 7:10:41 PM
[Last Edit: 8/16/2012 7:11:37 PM by Max-Paul]
Hmm,
Kind of looks like to much crimp deburring to me. I am thinking that the sides of the primer might not had have enough support and thus the wall burst just below the bottom of the primer? Pictures are great, just a little hard to clearly see everything. Like you would if you where able to twist and angle it. BTW is that a bolt out of a Ferret? |
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Posted: 8/16/2012 7:24:53 PM
That's an Armalite bolt.
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Posted: 8/16/2012 9:06:53 PM
Pics of fired and loaded.
Im guessing I smushed one side of he primer putting it in. ![]() |
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Posted: 8/16/2012 9:23:24 PM
How deep are your primer pockets? Those primers look very deep in the loaded rounds, and your chamfer to remove the crimp looks a bit heavy. I'd also agree your primer may not have been seated correctly.
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Posted: 8/16/2012 9:51:17 PM
I'm going with the primer got jacked up when it was seated and blew out the opposite side of the primer. Without a better pic it's to hard to tell how much chamfer is on the primer pocket but I doubt that would cause what you see in the pic. I've seen guys remove more matrial then that and never had a problem with primers blowing out.
If all you have is a little pitting and no cracks in the bolt face it's good to go, recheck your pockets and be sure they're the correct depth and that there aren't any burr's from cutting them to depth. |
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Posted: 8/16/2012 9:58:13 PM
I thought they looked deep to. I have the rcbs pocket uniformer and tried to set it but it looks like it's non adjustable.
I'm just deburing the edges after I cut the pockets. I'm also using the lee primer install tool that goes with the press. It has a spring loaded cup that you put the primer in and I thought it would keep it straight, guesss not. I'll watch it more closely. |
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Posted: 8/16/2012 10:02:16 PM
[Last Edit: 8/16/2012 10:07:58 PM by drbill]
Ive had some primers seat like that and I can feel when they do it and I decap them. Then I put in another one. I can sometimes see some "shavings" come off the primer between the case and Ill see some of it end up on the primer seater. I have also seated some RWIs but have never had a problem with them. How do you guys get those CCIs to seat good each time? Those CCIs don't seem perfectly round. Also how far you dare go with getting out crimp by chamfering with a RCBS 50 bmg chamfer tool on a trim mate center. I think the one i use is adjustable. Ive heard of guys who can't get it all out with swaging and had to chamfer. Also it seems like there is a little lip inside still sometimes. Arms4me maybe wants to know but I do for sure.
Would a cupped primer seater help with this problem? |
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Posted: 8/16/2012 10:54:18 PM
Most guys use the flat primer seater and seat by feel, LEE will tell you to use the flat primer seater on CCI primers and flatten the primers just a little to set the anvil.
Here's how I do my pockets, resize case or punch out primer with a punch, then chamfer the case mouth first with an RCBS .17-.45 chamfer tool part #09349. Depending on the crimp, staked or ring is the challenge when chamfering them as the staked primer pockets like to bounce the chamfering tool. On the staked pockets I go slow to keep the mouth of the pocket even and to keep the chamfer from bouncing, Once it gets a clean surface I like to remove the stakes from the mouth of the pocket. Don't go nuts and remove ALL of where it's been staked as you'll cut way to much material off, you just want the mouth of the pocket clean. On the ring type crimps I remove enough material so that you can tell the primer pocket and the mouth are straight or in line with each other. If there's to much material on the side that has the ring hanging over the mouth it will cause problems seating the primer. Same as with the staked primers, if you go nuts and try to remove all of the ring crimp you'll ruin the brass. Now for cutting the pockets, with a good chamfer the primer pocket uniformer will go into the pocket without to much trouble. The K&M uniformer is tight and if you don't keep it straight it has the tendancy to bind. You can use some Imperial sizing wax or Hornady's Unique as a lube but you'll need to clean the cutter as the shavings will build up on it. I try to keep a little on my finger and just wipe the side of the cutter to keep this from happening. If you own a K&M uniformer you know that you can pre set it for .220, I like to keep my calipers handy and check them from time to time. Most of the time it's easy to tell if the pocket is deep enough as the uniformer will rub on the back of the case. Power tools such as a drill will make these steps easy but you need to be careful, don't let the drill sit there or as I stated above, you can ruin your brass. Just remember to take it slow, watch what you're doing and you'll have your brass done in no time. |
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Posted: 8/17/2012 1:24:55 PM
It looks to me like the primer was too deep.
When it was fired the primer cup "baloons" out to fill the cavity, The baloon wall got stretched too thin and tore, allowing hot gasses out... |
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Posted: 8/19/2012 12:32:21 AM
Originally Posted By PugglePod9000:
It looks to me like the primer was too deep. When it was fired the primer cup "baloons" out to fill the cavity, The baloon wall got stretched too thin and tore, allowing hot gasses out... I measured the pocket and it was .218" deep and .311 wide. I'm pretty sure I just got it started sideways a bit and crushed that one side. I did check all the other pieces I preped and there all about .218-.220" and .310-.313 wide |
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