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 slm9s 
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Joined: Jan 2008  WA, USA
 Posts: 194 Feedback: 100% (10) |
Posted: 6/23/2011 10:37:36 PM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT Thanks. |
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Posted: 6/23/2011 11:06:31 PM
What caliber are the rounds? Lee makes a cup and punch set in .22 and .30 size that you can use to whack the primers out with a mallet. The cup holds the case and has a chamber to catch the loose primers and the punch is just the right size. Very cheap.
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Posted: 6/23/2011 11:07:16 PM
Cheap used Lee Loader hand tools work good and are really cheap for 9mm if you can find one on ebay.
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Posted: 6/23/2011 11:18:58 PM
SLMS9
Yes you can, I sometimes find it faster to just use a punch and BMG shell holder, I usually place the shellholder on the flat part of my vice and hit away, if I have trouble with used unknown source brass I will usually deprime this way, makes it easier when full length resizing later, and I don't bend or break anything. Keith |
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Posted: 6/24/2011 12:34:43 AM
I use the Lee set for .308.
For me it is the best way to go. I got tired of breaking dies/pins.  |
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Posted: 6/24/2011 1:16:42 AM
I have been using a punch to remove the primer for more than 9 years now. Started doing it because of the crimp on some surplus is pretty tough. I also removed my expander ball on my size die. It makes sizing a breeze.
Ed |
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Posted: 6/24/2011 1:16:50 AM
Originally Posted By KEITHK:
SLMS9 Yes you can, I sometimes find it faster to just use a punch and BMG shell holder, I usually place the shellholder on the flat part of my vice and hit away, if I have trouble with used unknown source brass I will usually deprime this way, makes it easier when full length resizing later, and I don't bend or break anything. Keith What size (point and length) do you use? And for the others, yes I'm reloading 50 bmg. |
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molardog
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Joined: Mar 2008 GA, USA
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Posted: 6/24/2011 2:07:59 PM
Anyone know how tough the crimps on PMC brass are?
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Alaskacajun
"First you start with a Roux"
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Joined: Jan 2006 AK, USA
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Posted: 6/25/2011 2:44:21 PM
[Last Edit: 6/25/2011 2:53:27 PM by Alaskacajun]
I use a modified 8" Klein screw driver. I broke it a while back so I ground down the tip to make it round and just use it with a small hammer to knock the primers out. It makes it a lot easier to resize the brass when you don't have to knock a crimped primer out at the same time!
- Clint |
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Posted: 6/25/2011 8:55:25 PM
Originally Posted By slm9s:
Originally Posted By KEITHK:
SLMS9 Yes you can, I sometimes find it faster to just use a punch and BMG shell holder, I usually place the shellholder on the flat part of my vice and hit away, if I have trouble with used unknown source brass I will usually deprime this way, makes it easier when full length resizing later, and I don't bend or break anything. Keith What size (point and length) do you use? And for the others, yes I'm reloading 50 bmg. SLMS9 I use a craftsman 1/8 inch punch, just a scouce smaller than flash hole and works great, and like someone said perfect for sealed or crimped primers, only problem you will run into is finding flashole sometimes, but after a couple the punch finds its way. Keith |
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Posted: 6/26/2011 12:42:27 PM
[Last Edit: 6/26/2011 12:44:03 PM by rg1]
I agree that knocking out the spent primers in crimped 50bmg cases makes sizing so much easier. I used a !/2" diameter rod, drilled a hole in the end, took the drill that was used to drill the hole and cut off the shank of the drill bit and used the cut off shank as the punch. The cut off drill bit shank is tough but not brittle. I used a set screw to hold the pin in my punch but lock-tite or crazy glue will hold it. I made an anvil by drilling a hole with a flat bottom big enough for the case to fit and a hole through for the spent primer to fall out. Steel, aluminum, or tough plastic will make a good anvil. It'll make sizing easier and case shoulders are more consistent. My pin is 1/8" diameter and about 1 1/4" long.
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Posted: 6/27/2011 7:16:08 AM
You're having a tough time decapping the french brass because the flash hole is only 2mm rather than the US std of .125"...
If you make your own decapping tool, or turn down a Lee decapping rod, it'll go easier... :) Once the spent primer are out, you can drill out the flash holes to .125" and not have to deal with it again for subsequent reloads. |
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molardog
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Joined: Mar 2008 GA, USA
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Posted: 6/27/2011 8:06:13 PM
Note to self: don't buy French brass.
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Posted: 6/29/2011 9:00:11 PM
I just use a regular punch with a rubber grommet I got at Home Depot which holds the punch when I push it in the neck. I also built a shell holder using a piece of square tubing and some lathe work with round steel so the dies fall into the square tubing.
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Posted: 7/3/2011 11:04:51 PM
Originally Posted By molardog:
Note to self: don't buy French brass. French isn't the only stuff like that. I bent 2 pins on my Hornady press on Santa Barbara brass. It has the 3 point crimp and is a pain in the arse to get those primers out. |
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Posted: 7/20/2011 2:14:20 AM
[Last Edit: 7/20/2011 3:53:47 AM by slm9s]
Okay, deprimed w/ a punch. Drilled out to 1/8th as instructed, but my Lee trimming setup that is supposed to go through the flash hole still won't fit. I assume I just have to go a size up by 1/64th, but wanted to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong by altering my brass AGAIN.
Please let me know! |
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molardog
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Joined: Mar 2008 GA, USA
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Posted: 7/20/2011 11:57:41 AM
[Last Edit: 7/20/2011 1:04:52 PM by molardog]
Originally Posted By slm9s:
Okay, deprimed w/ a punch. Drilled out to 1/8th as instructed, but my Lee trimming setup that is supposed to go through the flash hole still won't fit. I assume I just have to go a size up by 1/64th, but wanted to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong by altering my brass AGAIN. Please let me know! This might work for you........flash hole uniformer for .50 bmg OTOH...I'm not sure if the flash hole needs sizing prior to using the above tool. |
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Posted: 8/24/2011 12:24:19 AM
I was given 135 rounds of French 50BMG brass.
I too noted the small flash hole. MY fix - and I posted this also on the FCSA Forum. Use my K&M flash hole uniformer to drill oit hole until drill point contacts front of primer, using homemade punch, punch out primer, re-use the K&M Flash Hole Uniformer to ream flash hole to a consistent size and chamfer flash hole - this done thru mouth of case, use a RCBS chamfering tool to remove the crimp (about 1/16' deep chamfer), use a K&M Primer Pocket Uniformer to ream primer pocket and clean, use wire brush in drill to remove tar sealant in neck of case. Tumble in SS pins - cleans inside and out better than new !!! Will be loading these with Lehigh 510-120 brass ball for fun shooting. |
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nmmi9100
Appleseed...learn to SHOOT that rifle, sans Bipod!
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Joined: Mar 2007 NM, USA
Posts: 3223 Feedback: 100% (2) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/24/2011 1:19:57 AM
When i was loading a lot of 50 BMG, I always used a punch to deprime. One of the cheap long punches from Harbor Freight ($10 set). I set the fired case on the shellholder and used the shellholder as an anvil. Worked well for me.
-David |
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Posted: 8/24/2011 7:50:13 PM
[Last Edit: 8/24/2011 7:51:28 PM by Max-Paul]
OldmanFCSA
Thanks for sharing your prep routine. But you blew me away with one part of it. What is this SS pins that you use to clean your brass? Is this a mixture of SS pins and corn cob, or just SS pins? Thanks |
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Posted: 8/24/2011 8:49:11 PM
[Last Edit: 8/24/2011 8:52:44 PM by subwofer2]
Using a Thumbler Tumbler B, add 20 to 40 .50 BMG brass, deprimed. Add 5 pounds of stainless steel pins, a large squirt of Dawn dish soap a table spoon of Lemi-Shine and fill the drum with hot water leaving about 1 to half inch of space to the lid. If it's real dirty let the drum run 10 to 12 hours. If just cleaning after firing 2 - 3 hours.
I rinse my cleaned brass with hot water and place into the dishwasher on the plate warmer/drying cycle. They come out shinny and spotless. Oldman uses a hair dryer. http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/ |
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nmmi9100
Appleseed...learn to SHOOT that rifle, sans Bipod!
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Joined: Mar 2007 NM, USA
Posts: 3229 Feedback: 100% (2) Link To This Post |
Posted: 8/24/2011 9:33:03 PM
tumbling in soapy water with stainless steel pins is all the rage right now for precision shooting. Cleans everything out...all the carbon inside the case, the primer pocket, flash holes etc. Costs about $200 to $300 to get setup but then your in business.
Strongly considering it myself for 308 precision loads. -Davdi |
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Posted: 11/8/2011 9:10:12 AM
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Husky79
Member of the Members
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Joined: Dec 2008 MN, USA
Posts: 931 Feedback: 100% (1) Link To This Post |
Posted: 11/8/2011 1:58:14 PM
got a better picture of that trailer setup!?
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Posted: 11/8/2011 2:51:16 PM
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Posted: 11/8/2011 2:54:26 PM
Trailer is NOT complete - it will be a work in progress for a while.
Open to more suggestions. |
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