I wanted to reduce the ROF of my M16.
Not sure it's going to affect the reliability or good idea...
Searched the net and found some old threads about replacing with Hydraulic buffer, etc.
Any effective solution to reduce ROF and maintain the same reliability without breaking the bank?

http://azshooterssupply.com/product.php?prod=741000003-741000003-11133&name=M+G+I+Ar-15%2FM16%2FM-4+Rate+Reducing+Buffer





MGI buffer





Knocked rpm in a LWRC 10.5 piston down to about 600.



You may need to put in a more serious roll pin. Apparently, the newer ones walk out, so I have heard.  Mine has ten thousand rounds on it and it is good.

Have you considered dialing down the gas?  Think there's 5 different ways to do it these days, from an adjustable gas block to an adjustable BCG.

Never thought about changing out the gas block in order to reduce the ROF.
It seems like a good idea and might be cheaper.

I'm currently using PSA CHF 10.5" upper w/ Colt Bolt group & Spikes A3 buffer.
It just too fast and jumpy... please see the video of my friend shooting recently.
My goal is to reduce ROF to 600 RPM range and maintain the same reliability when using steel & M855 at the same range session.

Stupid me... upon inspection, the buffer is T3 from PSA
I'm very interested in adding weight to the carrier.
Where can I find the Tungsten weights or how to add it to my carrier?

I'm running with RLL and if I use T2 buffer, the weapon wouldn't cycle.
Thanks for the fatboy gas tube recommendation... I will give it a try.

I could never had satisfactory results with hydraulic buffers.  Here are a few other ideas:

A mid-length upper will slow things down a bit and reduce general wear and tear.

A Geissele Super 42 braided wire buffer spring and buffer (both).  If you have a 14.5" barrel then you'll need one or two of their tungsten weights as well.  It's on sale at Geissele for $42 at the moment.

https://geissele.com/super-42-braided-wire-buffer-spring-and-buffer-combo.html

A GemTech suppressed bolt carrier (if you're running suppressed).  It's on sale at GemTech for $200 at the moment.

https://gemtech.com/gemtech-5-56-suppressed-bolt-carrier.html

I have a bag full of buffers that I take to the range with me.  I can get anything to work with these.  My bud has one too.  We both own Colt RRs and RDIAS.

They included, at a minimum, H, H2, H3, old-style AAC rate-reducer, MGI rate-reducer, Kyn-Shot 9mm hydraulic, Kyn-shot rifle hydraulic (for Shrike with cut-down MG34 spring), HK416 buffer, Colt LMG hydraulic buffer, and a few Slash buffers for 9 and .45.  Its quite a collection.

Having said all that, the OP's ROF is really ripping.  Look at that thing go!  I suspect the Spike's buffer isn't really doing what you want it to do - and at the same time that barrel is seriously over-gassed  (at least for 5.56 ammo).

Something that no one is mentioning is that one can handload a milder load for MG use and still have full reliability.  I run 26-26.5gr of W844 under 55FMJ with LC brass and CCI41 primers.  This is not a 5.56 load, but the pressure curve is right to ensure reliability in DI systems.  You don't have to run 5.56 in your MG and frankly you might be happier if you didn't.  YMMV.

For the guy who doesn't like hydraulic buffers:  I tried a couple of different Colt/Young hydraulic buffers back in the day, and they leaked and failed pretty quickly.  My bud has been running a Colt LMG hydraulic buffer with his Shrike for years and it works well for him.  I just got a 9mm Kyn-Shot with a blue spring for my 9mm and I LOVE it.  Also, I just got the Kyn-Shot rifle buffer for my Shrike (with cut-down MG34 spring) and LOVE it too!  Kyn-shot claims at least 1M strokes before failure.  Seems good to me.

Chris Bartocci: Buffers

I used a Colt hydraulic buffer, it worked, sort of, but later leaked and stopped working. When it did, I'm not sure the rate went down much.

I have used various other buffers, like the MGI buffer, and others, but as far as being reliable, I switched to the Vltor A5 system which slowed the rate. It seems reliable. I like it.

However it does mean changing the buffer tube which isn't fun. I had to cut the castle nut off.

ive slowed mine down with an adjustable gas block, but when too slow is not smooth or controllable....faster seems easier to control.....slow=choppy if you go the gas block route