You have a self regulating barrel...not the end of the world....you need more than 1 barrel anyway.

Heres a photo or a broken old style vs the new one.. the new one is slightly beefer on the lug, and if you look athe the locations of the cutouts in it that allow insertion removal of it into the upper receriver... there in different locations.

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o712/MGnoob/Mobile%20Uploads/20160516_212805_zps7pfautwp.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-RS31PfE1g

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-RS31PfE1g[/youtube]

I wet tumble my links and that seemed to help the stripping issue. I also have the feed cover insert by Mark.

Now my only problem is I am getting light primer hits... can't figure that one out yet.

No luck on the hydraulic carbine buffer either... H3 or Slash's X Buffer. Wouldn't a rifle buffer be so long, it would not allow you to strip a round?

You can seem my prototype M192 Tripod.... :)

I had issues with light primer strikes as well at one point when trying to run with the recommended H2 buffer.  I switched to an H3, then a Colt X, and eventually a an MGI and had the best success with the Colt X and MGI.

Since I was running a lightning link I figured I was more susceptible to bolt bounce due to the paddle precluding the bolt carrier from wanting to close so at first I added a sliding cobalt steel weight inside the carrier along with the MGI.  

At one point bolt bounce came back so I switched to a tungsten weight inside the carrier which then resolved the bolt bounce issue again.  About a month later when cleaning the gun I noticed that the MGI weights were not moving anymore, took the buffer apart and the nested springs inside the buffer had disintegrated.  That was the reason the bolt bounce came back was because the MGI buffer essentially broke on the inside and gummed up the sliding weights with broken spring pieces.  I eventually replaced the springs in the buffer but kept the tungsten weight in the carrier as well and never had bolt bounce come back.

A couple things you might want to check regarding the light primer strikes which are probably due to bolt bounce.

You might want to check is the extractor spring.  I know this sounds odd but the extractor spring actually puts a decent mount of friction between the rear outside edge of the extractor and the interior of the bolt carrier.  Basically it provides a similar friction that gas rings do in a normal DI carrier.

I recently busted an extractor spring and didn't realize how much more friction you get between the bolt head and the carrier with a fresh extractor spring.   This friction also helps contain bolt bounce along with the buffer.

You could also make sure you have a new extra power hammer spring

Third item to check is that the sliding weights in your H3 are free to move back and forth.  The little rubber pads between the weights can crumble over time, preventing the free movement of the tungsten weights.

I didn't have any luck either with a kynshot carbine length hydraulic but have a Colt Hydraulic and MG34 spring on order to test with.  

You do have to run a rifle length tube (either an A2 or ACE Rifle length stock) with the Colt Hydraulic.  I plan to test it out and if it works well, I plan to make a custom "carbine" buffer tube that is rifle length on the inside so that I can keep using the Magpul CTR stock I really like.  

I figure I just need two of these (http://www.vsevenweaponsystems.com/products/v7-buffer-tube) and a few minutes with the bandsaw and TIG welder to make a rifle length carbine style tube that just wont adjust as much.

What's the proper way to break-in ARES upper?
The manual said I have to load up 10rds into the mags during the break-in period.

Go by the Ares manual for proper break-in. I have a Gen 5 bought from Ruben some 3 years ago and have some 5000 rounds thru the upper which is on my Colt M-16A1. I have had great "luck" with my upper.

BUT GO BY THE MANUAL. There is a reason your upper came with a set of instructions. If you run the upper "your way" without breaking the upper in, per, the instructions and start to have issues, well told ya so. Good luck, would like to hear your range report.





If you notice, I have the heat sink located under the handguard.

I would be interested in seeing photos of these areas:
1. steel insert above the barrel extension
2. new charging handle
3. rear lug comparisons

Just bought a new MCR.
Ran the 100 round break in. Fed well from GI mags but not pmags.
Not stripping from the links sent from ares.
Put them in the tumbler, expanded them, but still does not seem to feed, even the first round won't strip. Using the Ares spring.

Me too! Anyone?