User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 12/1/2015 8:37:46 AM EDT
[#1]
The old forums that were active when Lakeside was producing the LM7 and Razorback are apparently still available in inactive form at www.lakesideguns.com. There's a massive amount of information in there about getting them running.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2015 10:50:12 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The old forums that were active when Lakeside was producing the LM7 and Razorback are apparently still available in inactive form at www.lakesideguns.com. There's a massive amount of information in there about getting them running. I was hoping that wouldn't be the case. I've registered there twice in the last 4 years and it's set to admin approval, and I never get approved. I'm guessing the admin isn't checking emails? |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2015 1:08:37 PM EDT
[#3]
I have one. If you want one you'll need to troll the secondary market.
Here's one I made the aftermarket brass catcher and feedbox. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2015 1:56:01 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
I just picked one up, I was curious who else had one. It seems finding info on these lowers isn't easy. Curious if there was a good place to get some? I "had" one. Never did work. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2015 4:20:02 PM EDT
[#5]
"I "had" one. Never did work."
Day after I received my LM7, I put it up for sale, sold it and the $$$ went towards my MM21e 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/1/2015 8:17:51 PM EDT
[#6]
I have one and love it. Definitely not for everyone.
I knew that Eric was going to stop making them so I also bought a Razorback that I could salvage for parts if I needed to.  |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/2/2015 1:29:35 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have one. If you want one you'll need to troll the secondary market. Here's one I made the aftermarket brass catcher and feedbox. Oh! I bought your feed box, then. Small world. How big of a belt can your feed box handle, btw? So what's the story on belts for these guys? I spoke with Eric and I'm going to pick up a couple 200rd belts, but I keep seeing guys with 500 Rd belts. I'm guessing no one makes them anymore? How do the disentigrating links work? Anyone had luck with them? |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/2/2015 7:08:37 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I "had" one. Never did work. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I just picked one up, I was curious who else had one. It seems finding info on these lowers isn't easy. Curious if there was a good place to get some? I "had" one. Never did work. This^ Saddly I still have it thinking I'll get it to run in FA one day. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/2/2015 9:43:26 AM EDT
[#9]
I have one and it works great!
It's very ammo sensitive. And you have to load the belts just right. I can typically get 6-800 rounds through it before it gets too dirty to run consistently. It hardly ever jams, but does sometimes stop, and simply pulling the charging handle gets it going again. 1. I used the 4:00 hammer spring. 2. CCI minimag and CCI Blazer solids only. 3. You have to get the seating depth consistent across the entire belt. 4. The cloth belts have to be seasoned to work reliably. CCI minimags have lots of wax lube on them which helps to season the belt. Seasoning includes working wax into the pockets so the pockets stay open and don't hold the case too tightly. It also helps with reducing the 'rolled down socks' effect you can get when loading cloth belts. 'Rolled down socks' will keep the belt from performing well. 5. I have the original plastic charging handle and bought one of his hollow aluminum handles that I use now. 6. It needs to be clean and at least moderately lubed. That's all I can think of. I am on the waiting list for an AM15, so I might be willing to sell my LM7 at some point. PM if interested. I can take some video of it running flawlessly if you're skeptical. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/2/2015 4:39:03 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Oh! I bought your feed box, then. Small world. How big of a belt can your feed box handle, btw? Thanks! I hope it is serving you well. They only hold 200 round belts. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/3/2015 12:30:48 PM EDT
[#11]
I bought one of the X1 models the last year Eric was at the Creek, but I had no luck getting it to run properly. At one point I mailed the entire thing back to him (including my registered receiver) and told him I'd pay him to just make it work. When I got it back, he had clearly done some fitting and machining on the bolt. Unfortunately, that was right when Sandy Hook happened and .22 disappeared. It was hard to find any .22 ammo, and since the Razorback was finicky about what ammo it used to begin with, that meant it never got fired after getting it back from him.
For all I know it works great now, but knowing my luck it probably doesn't. 
-bob |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/3/2015 9:36:14 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I bought one of the X1 models the last year Eric was at the Creek, but I had no luck getting it to run properly. At one point I mailed the entire thing back to him (including my registered receiver) and told him I'd pay him to just make it work. When I got it back, he had clearly done some fitting and machining on the bolt. Unfortunately, that was right when Sandy Hook happened and .22 disappeared. It was hard to find any .22 ammo, and since the Razorback was finicky about what ammo it used to begin with, that meant it never got fired after getting it back from him. For all I know it works great now, but knowing my luck it probably doesn't.
-bob It seems people either have it run either 100%, or terrible. Most seem to say 100%. I think it may be to the intricacies of belt feed systems that a lot of people dont have much experience with. I always get uppers to run, some require more work than others, but this definitely deserves the investment. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/6/2015 10:28:15 PM EDT
[#13]
I had one, never installed it. I sold it to help fund a DLO HK frame around 2006. At the time a friend also had one and was in the process of tinkering with it to get it to run reliably. I don't like to tinker on guns to achieve reliable function, so I sold it. My friend's runs great now and is a lot of fun to shoot.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/6/2015 11:53:14 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was hoping that wouldn't be the case. I've registered there twice in the last 4 years and it's set to admin approval, and I never get approved. I'm guessing the admin isn't checking emails? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The old forums that were active when Lakeside was producing the LM7 and Razorback are apparently still available in inactive form at www.lakesideguns.com. There's a massive amount of information in there about getting them running. I was hoping that wouldn't be the case. I've registered there twice in the last 4 years and it's set to admin approval, and I never get approved. I'm guessing the admin isn't checking emails? They will not let you register using a public email domain, ie. @gmail.com @hotmai.com etc.... |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/7/2015 7:40:39 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They will not let you register using a public email domain, ie. @gmail.com @hotmai.com etc.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The old forums that were active when Lakeside was producing the LM7 and Razorback are apparently still available in inactive form at www.lakesideguns.com. There's a massive amount of information in there about getting them running. I was hoping that wouldn't be the case. I've registered there twice in the last 4 years and it's set to admin approval, and I never get approved. I'm guessing the admin isn't checking emails? They will not let you register using a public email domain, ie. @gmail.com @hotmai.com etc.... Oh I'm aware, I use an isp address. It filters those out before you even get to the admin approval step. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/8/2016 9:43:04 PM EDT
[#16]
I know this is probably a long shot, but I really need to see a standard razorback buffer disassembled. My kit came with the slow fire buffer. It's sapping all the energy out of the action, and won't run more than 3-5 round bursts. I need to see if the slow fire bolt is just a regular bolt with a slide weight, and if not, what I need to fabricate.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2016 1:33:08 AM EDT
[#17]
He's a couple pics of the regular buffer next to the heavy buffer (or maybe it's the super heavy buffer):
There's not much difference between the two. The (super?) heavy buffer has an extra steel insert, and the recoil spring has been shortened by about a half-inch to accomodate it. Also, on the regular buffer the front end (held in by a roll pin) is plastic whereas on the heavy buffer it's steel. Hope that helps, -bob Edit: One other thing, the heavy buffer has more material removed from the large bottom plastic piece. These are bad pics, but it's the best I can do with my cell phone and a flashlight. They should be enough to give you the general idea however: 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2016 12:36:14 PM EDT
[#18]
Awesome Bob, you're a life saver. let me ask you another question. What exactly keeps the spring and guide rod centered in the standard buffer? I can reassemble mine without the large weight, but that weight helps center the spring, without it the spring and guide would flop around.
Edit: I got confused with the last two pics, I thought they were reversed, and I was seeing the large weight seated in the buffer. Now I see it's just plastic. It would seem I could just reverse the large weight, thereby making it unsprung mass? I think that would work. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2016 1:16:14 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Awesome Bob, you're a life saver. let me ask you another question. What exactly keeps the spring and guide rod centered in the standard buffer? I can reassemble mine without the large weight, but that weight helps center the spring, without it the spring and guide would flop around. Edit: I got confused with the last two pics, I thought they were reversed, and I was seeing the large weight seated in the buffer. Now I see it's just plastic. It would seem I could just reverse the large weight, thereby making it unsprung mass? I think that would work. I think you are correct and can just reassemble without the large weight. The guide rod passes completely through the plastic piece and is secured with the e-ring at the far external side. It's all self centering. I would think the springs to be identical. When I ordered spares, I don't remember being asked for a buffer type...Is the shorter spring a bit compressed? Maybe from shuffling the extra weight around? |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2016 2:13:11 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think you are correct and can just reassemble without the large weight. The guide rod passes completely through the plastic piece and is secured with the e-ring at the far external side. It's all self centering. I would think the springs to be identical. When I ordered spares, I don't remember being asked for a buffer type...Is the shorter spring a bit compressed? Maybe from shuffling the extra weight around? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Awesome Bob, you're a life saver. let me ask you another question. What exactly keeps the spring and guide rod centered in the standard buffer? I can reassemble mine without the large weight, but that weight helps center the spring, without it the spring and guide would flop around. Edit: I got confused with the last two pics, I thought they were reversed, and I was seeing the large weight seated in the buffer. Now I see it's just plastic. It would seem I could just reverse the large weight, thereby making it unsprung mass? I think that would work. I think you are correct and can just reassemble without the large weight. The guide rod passes completely through the plastic piece and is secured with the e-ring at the far external side. It's all self centering. I would think the springs to be identical. When I ordered spares, I don't remember being asked for a buffer type...Is the shorter spring a bit compressed? Maybe from shuffling the extra weight around? You're probably right - the heavy buffer is the only one I've ever really used (as little as that's been). The standard buffer is basically unfired, so it makes sense that the standard buffer's spring is probably just less compressed. Southern Raider's right about everything being self-contained. It was a bit more trouble to put the heavy buffer back together, but I got it by looking down through the rear hole in the large plastic body and keeping the guide rod centered as I pushed down on the body, compressing the spring until the guide rod protruded through the back of the plastic body. I then reinstalled the retaining ring and it was good to go. As you said though, if you remove the steel weight, there's probably not enough meat in the plastic body to keep the guide rod centered. Reversing the steel might very well work - or you could perhaps replace the steel weight with something lighter instead - Delrin perhaps? Seems like flipping the weight first would be a pretty simple thing to test. -bob |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2016 4:05:18 PM EDT
[#21]
I have a RB. It runs great in semi auto.
I think the timing is just slightly off as I get bulged cases that lock up the tslot. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2016 5:18:26 PM EDT
[#22]
I'm starting to wonder if I'm experiencing bolt bounce? I am getting light strikes on the stoppages. Could too short of a buffer spacer cause that? Anyone have a ruler to measure their two spacers? ;)
I might need to run it in semi auto to see if it's bolt bounce, as disgusting as that is. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/9/2016 5:47:46 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I might need to run it in semi auto to see if it's bolt bounce, as disgusting as that is. Sig line material quality stuff there! 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/10/2016 12:46:06 AM EDT
[#24]
Okay, I think I found at least one problem. The sear trip was loose. thst would probably explain a lot.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/23/2016 11:45:44 AM EDT
[#25]
Well, I've since tightened the trip, which made a definite improvement, however, I'm still battling issues. I'm getting light strikes on stoppages. I believe I'm experiencing bolt bounce, but it's hard to know for sure. I removed hammer dip, polisted and resurfaced my hammer and sear catches, and reduced the fcg friction as much as I csn. I believe the problem may also be my sear timing. I cannot find any measurements for what my sear timing should be. Can anyone measure theirs (assuming yours runs) and let me know what your bolt gap is at when the hammer drops? My hammer is dropping at 0.023". I'm wondering if my timing is too late and the bolt is in the process of bouncing.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/23/2016 1:05:33 PM EDT
[#26]
Another member had a similar problem and found that his unit very much preferred USGI fire control components. I think he was trying a Geissele trigger and it wasn't happy.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/23/2016 1:43:19 PM EDT
[#27]
Unfortunately I'm using an all USGI FCG. I swapped out sears as well in an attempt to remedy the situation.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/23/2016 6:46:01 PM EDT
[#28]
Sounds like my problems.
Either hammer follow or OOB and case swelling in the Tslot. So mines tripping early, or late. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/16/2016 12:20:04 PM EDT
[#29]
OK, I'm going to pick up my AM15 tonight, so I will market my LM7 in the next few weeks. If anyone here is interested, then please send me a PM. Mine runs GREAT. It is tuned and is typically reliable for 6-800 rounds before it gets dirty and has stoppages.
It will include the original LM7 with 16" barrel, at least a dozen cloth 100rd belts, brass catcher and feed boxes, adapters for rifle and carbine, a spares kit that I purchased from Eric at Knob Creek, and maybe some springs and other stuff if I can find it. I'm local to middle Tennessee, and I am happy to tutor local buyers and also include some ammo with the sale. The most important thing is to use the right ammo and to load the belts with consistent seating depth. For skeptics, I can shoot a bit of iphone video so you can see how reliable it is. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/3/2016 12:25:22 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have one. If you want one you'll need to troll the secondary market. Here's one I made the aftermarket brass catcher and feedbox. do you still have any available to sell? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/3/2016 12:45:26 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
do you still have any available to sell? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I have one. If you want one you'll need to troll the secondary market. Here's one I made the aftermarket brass catcher and feedbox. do you still have any available to sell? I have some stuff. I'll drop you PM. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/4/2016 10:32:09 AM EDT
[#32]
I wanted a razorback bad. When I talked with them and found out they were shutting down the company I decided not to buy one. I was worried about getting spare parts in the future. The ones that work look like a lot of fun.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/8/2016 12:18:12 PM EDT
[#33]
I did the opposite. Bought one and all the backup parts they thought would be useful in the future.
Mine runs really good. .22 is so low powered I don't expect 100% but it's pretty darn close. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
