Finally getting it transferred to me.  Finally.  The seller went through a divorce during the transfer time and it got held up, a long time.  

Any rate.  I have a couple of specific questions.  

1.   Are there lowers factory made that accept the link WITH A KNS PROTECTOR?   I know they exist to work with the link, but a link AND protector?

2.  The A5 VLTOR system completely fixed the bolt bounce I was having with my RR.   Any reason not to go with the A5 again?

3.  I'm looking at the YM bolt carrier made for the LL.  I know a SP1 is all I need.  YM has been good for me in the past, any reason not to go this route?

Once I get all the pieces and the transfer I will hit m60Joe up for appropriate paddles.  

Any specific recommendations?   I've been reading QuarterBore's site and anything LL related.

1. Re-enforcer exceeds normal spec minimums, so you might find a combination that works stock, but likely will have to have one or more components modified.  Most common is having takedown pin post bottom milled for clearance.  Nothing is *made* to work with the link and re-enforcer, but some pieces have enough slop to be *ok* with the link and re-enforcer without mods.
2. No reason not to at least try it.  I run two rifles with standard carbine buffers and SP1 carriers on links with no issues - so YMMV.
3. Long as the rear spec is OK, no reason not to.

Biggest factor with links seems to be getting paddle thickness right, for normal variations in upper/carrier fit, and making sure the lower has enough, but not TOO much room to move in the lower.

Understood.  Thank you.

1.  There are a few lowers out there that can use the RLL without any additional milling, but it seems like most low shelf RDIAS compatible lowers require a little bit of clearancing for the shoulders of the link.  Please review the sticky post at the top of this board to identify them.  The fact that you will be running a protector has no impact on the lower choice because the protector does not take up any additional space in the x-y plane.  If it fits the RLL, then it fits with the protector installed as well.  The challenge with lowers is finding one that meets all your desires.  I ended up having a custom run of lowers made that are RLL/RDIAS compatible with SAFE/SEMI/AUTO markings, no stupid logo, threaded bolt catch hole, and threaded rear takedown detent hole.  See pictures below of the RRL with protector installed sitting in the lower.  I may be open to parting with a few if anybody is interested.

2.  I have not run the A5 system, but have had not bolt bounce issues with both H2 and Enidine hydraulic buffers.  I would also suggest tuning your gas before tuning your buffers as a general rule.

3.  The YM carrier is almost always out of stock. If you can't get one, just buy a decent semi-auto carrier and square off the end to 0.040".  That's what I do.  It is extremely simple to do with an end mill and could probably be done with a dremel.  I prefer a modern semi-BCG over an SP1 anyhow due to the shrouding of the firing pin.

I posted some videos in another thread here that might help familiarize you with the RLL.  Feel free to ask questions, that's how we all learn.

v/r,
Esox

Just curious how long did your transfer take.

I waited 2 years for a bum dealer to do the paperwork correctly on my m16

Wow that's rough. I thought waiting 5 months for my suppressor only to learn the dealer forgot to place the order was bad!

Sent a PM thanking you and inquiring about the lower.

So my LL I paid for 2.5 years ago.  It was on a form 4, so finally it go transferred to my dealer.  Now the paperwork has been submitted to get it transferred to me.  So technically not mine yet.  I"m figuring on 3.5 years?

2.5 years...that is just punishing!!  Well, think about how much the value has increased over that time.  There is at least a light at the end of the tunnel now.

I'll check my email.

Not sure with a protector but a ym carrier, aero lower and upper and alg qms trigger was the working combo.

Form 4 seem to be going 2-4 months .

I called YM and they have LL carriers in stock.  Just not complete carriers, just missing the bolt.  I have several bolts.  I have a couple of uppers that I'd like to use so I just bought some LL carriers from YM.  I really like the quality of their carriers (and bolts) so its all good.

That's great news! Weird that their website still shows out of stock...so I'll call them tomorrow to order some myself.  It also looks like we will need to buy a gas key and bolts and stake them onto the carrier since these are stripped.

Young Mfg. RLL Carrier

I cant believe someone bothered to make a Bolt carrier for RLL. Isnt there only like 500 or less of them registered? Seems like a small market.

Post samples count too

I bought the complete carrier.  They "staked" the key, you know the YM version of torque.   Bought that and a cam pin.  I have plenty of cotter pins and firing pins, and of course I have complete bolts.  

I just received some LL friendly lowers.  Gotta go pick them up.  Now I need trigger components with safe, semi and auto capability.  I don't want safe and auto.   I want a three position.

didnt realism people even bothered to make post sample LLs, you can get a Lower for like $150 and drill a hole in it and be GTG or mill a DIAS in like 10 minutes from some scrap steel, both of which are superior to a LL IMO

It looks like they stripped LL bolt carrier is in fact bare-bones and not just missing a bolt.
Seems like the carrier doesn't come with any carrier key, etc.
How hard is to install a carrier key, adjust alignment and staking them?
.


http://youngmanufacturing.net/assets/images/LLNK002.JPG

I

Make them yourself from a complete burst trigger assembly, super easy if you have some basic Dremel skills and some cut off wheels. Takes maybe 20 minutes even with some test fitting. Otherwise I think m60joe has them? there were a couple of people selling them when I got my link 5 or so years ago. Welcome to the rll, big fan of mine.

Are they all made from burst trigger assemblies?   I mean is there is difference between buying it professionally and me dremeling?   Did they all START as burst assemblies?   I know that the pro version will look better.

Don't really care about the look as long as the modified burst kit works.
Who has the cheapest prices on unmodified burst kits and where to modify it to work with LL without damaging LL itself?

All of them would start as as burst parts, if not kits, the hammer can be any semi or fa hammer,it is the dual disconnector trigger that is the key part. Look up " burst" on brownells, they used to have the parts on there. Just search ee for them, I got mine for maybe $50-75.


Piece of cake if you can run a dremel. Get a three round burst FCG on equipment exchange, grind off sear catch on hammer, toss out three round burst ratchet, replace hammer spring with standard spring, grind the left disconnector where the link would normall hit it so that the RLL doesn't pull it back in semi. Cut off hook on front of right disconnector where it would engage the burst ratchet. M60joe posted a clear pic of which disconnectors, where to remove material and how much. Honestly it takes about 15 minutes with a ceramic cutoff wheel. I'm sure he would sell you one also.

Start here:
http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=23&t=242819

Awesome info! thanks

Thanks very much.

I concur with the above.  It is super simple to convert your existing semi-auto MIL-SPEC fire control group to select fire with the modified burst kit method.  All you need are the following parts, not a complete burst FCG, although it is sometimes cheaper to buy the full kit if you don't have a semi FCG already.

1. Burst trigger (has two slots for two disconnector springs, springs usually are included)
2. Left (semi) burst disconnector; cut a notch in it so your RLL won't pull it back
3. Right (burst) burst disconnector; cut the front hook off so it won't get in the way (you might even be able to use it as is otherwise it will bang into a semi hammer)
4. M16 selector

You can use your existing hammer, hammer spring, trigger spring, pins, etc.  All this is easily accomplished in 15 minutes with a dremel.  It seems the hardest part is finding the burst parts as they are usually out of stock. I could probably video the making of this modification if it helps. The only issue is that I don't need a backup and can't really use another one...though I think I have all the parts somewhere if I get a chance to find them.

Esox

Wow, video would be extremely valuable asset to LL community.
I haven't seen any video of this topic... not even remotely close.  

That would be awesome.  Or Is there a document showing what to do?   I've been looking on QB and M60Joe's site, both sites have a TON of information but finding what I am looking for is a bit hard.  I know I'm not clicking on the correct links.  

Found this.  Picture by QB.  

That is it exactly, the stock parts are on the bottom (you can just skip the FA hammer grinding and use a SA hammer, but might want to grind a little on the SA hammer so that the back of it doesn't whang into a KNS protector) and then you just grind off the ratchet pawl to make it look like the one on top and grind the notch in the other disconnector so that it can't be pulled back by the link. On semi, the disconnector with the grind still grabs the hammer, switched to FA, it is held back by the selector switch so it can't catch the hammer.

I had an SBR take over 1.5 years to transfer.

I finally got a chance to dig around in my basement to look for parts. I do have a spare set of Colt parts from when I bought two sets late last year. I had to buy them from Specialized Armament since they were not available anywhere else at the time. I've got like $80 in these things. If somebody wants to buy them I would be willing to video the modification, otherwise I'd prefer to keep them stock. I think I have an M16 selector to go with it as well if required.

Esox