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Posted: 4/10/2015 7:55:49 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mine certainly doesn't and won't even strip the first round (this when using the ARES main action spring along with an H2, H3 and even a heavy 9mm two piece mechanical buffer). After cycling the charging handle (four or five times), the bullet gets smashed / set back into the brass which could potentially cause an over-pressure event. If I'm lucky enough to get a round to partially strip, the bolt usually rides under the cartridge and causes a fail to feed malfunction. Recently, ARES Defense recommended I replace the receiver due to "excessive wear". I've fired about 2,800 rounds and experienced about 450 bolt ride under malfunction during that time and the receiver is now deemed "worn out". This POS has been an absolute nightmare up until I began stretching the links about a year ago. YMMV Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Mine runs flawlessly: Mine certainly doesn't and won't even strip the first round (this when using the ARES main action spring along with an H2, H3 and even a heavy 9mm two piece mechanical buffer). After cycling the charging handle (four or five times), the bullet gets smashed / set back into the brass which could potentially cause an over-pressure event. If I'm lucky enough to get a round to partially strip, the bolt usually rides under the cartridge and causes a fail to feed malfunction. Recently, ARES Defense recommended I replace the receiver due to "excessive wear". I've fired about 2,800 rounds and experienced about 450 bolt ride under malfunction during that time and the receiver is now deemed "worn out". This POS has been an absolute nightmare up until I began stretching the links about a year ago. YMMV I felt the same way till I cleaned the links. The grittiness of the links is gone. When I pushed rounds through before I cleaned them it felt like sandpaper, and the force was high. I had bolt ride unders too till I wet tumbled them. I think beyond the cleaning they were smoothed out. |
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Posted: 4/10/2015 11:04:23 PM EDT
[#2]
glad to see wet tumbling is helping some. i also had extraction issues with mine. i had to put a BCM extra power extractor spring and defender D ring in and that fixed the extraction issues. it would double feed about once ever 4 rounds before that. these things are finicky, but if you follow logic on fixing the issues and use the factory parts it should work. mine ran 100% after the new extractor spring, d ring and tumbled links. it wouldn't jam for anything after that in either semi or full auto(with a friends lower)
anyone who hasn't wet tumbled their links needs to buy a setup and do it. its much easier than stretching the links. |
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Posted: 4/10/2015 11:59:12 PM EDT
[#3]
Well I guess I need a tumbler. I am looking at this one. Anyone have any recommendations? Lortone QT-12 Rotary Rock Tumbler $215
just found one for $179. Where do you buy the SS pins? here is another I found. http://bestrocktumbler.com/model-b-heavy-duty/ Don't what to spend BIG money right now but the other thing is I have a small gift shop in my restaurant and we used to sell polished stones not a huge money maker but more so if I was picking them up out of the creek rather than buying them. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 12:40:59 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well I guess I need a tumbler. I am looking at this one. Anyone have any recommendations? Lortone QT-12 Rotary Rock Tumbler $215 just found one for $179. Where do you buy the SS pins? here is another I found. http://bestrocktumbler.com/model-b-heavy-duty/ Don't what to spend BIG money right now but the other thing is I have a small gift shop in my restaurant and we used to sell polished stones not a huge money maker but more so if I was picking them up out of the creek rather than buying them. Midway sells a pretty large wet tumbler. OOS now... http://www.midwayusa.com/product/713881/frankford-arsenal-platinum-series-rotary-case-tumbler My Thumblers B holds a few hundred links. It was about $180. Paint the inside of the metal drum red before using it. HF has a couple of small rock tumblers cheap, even a large vibratory wet tumbler. There's a long ar15.com thread on this one for brass tumbling: http://m.harborfreight.com/dual-drum-rotary-rock-tumbler-67632.html http://m.harborfreight.com/18-lb-vibratory-bowl-with-liquid-drain-hose-96923.html I got 5# of pins from SSTM http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 1:23:12 AM EDT
[#5]
You are the man Doc!
I think that I will go with the Thumbler B model. I read in several reviews that they had a 2 speed motor that you could get but I don't see that listed anywhere so I have a check in to the company on that. Thanks for the info. OH yea. What did you mean about painting the inside of the drum Red? Have you ever heard or used Por-15? it is a rust preventive and I used it on my 78 Vette frame that I swapped out the engine on. Once it sets up you can beat it with a hammer and it will not come off. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 5:23:41 AM EDT
[#6]
After I fire off what I have,I'll have to wet tumble some of the Un-stretched and some of the Stretched treated links.
The only difference from once fired and the ones Aries provides that i can tell seems to be they have what ever paint / coating removed Not That they work any better than once fired.. By the way those SS tumblers work great on brass. I originally figure my brass was so shiny and smooth I wouldn't have stripping issues. It definitely doesn't hurt. This thread has been very helpful. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 8:21:52 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I felt the same way till I cleaned the links. The grittiness of the links is gone. When I pushed rounds through before I cleaned them it felt like sandpaper, and the force was high. I had bolt ride unders too till I wet tumbled them. I think beyond the cleaning they were smoothed out. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Mine runs flawlessly: Mine certainly doesn't and won't even strip the first round (this when using the ARES main action spring along with an H2, H3 and even a heavy 9mm two piece mechanical buffer). After cycling the charging handle (four or five times), the bullet gets smashed / set back into the brass which could potentially cause an over-pressure event. If I'm lucky enough to get a round to partially strip, the bolt usually rides under the cartridge and causes a fail to feed malfunction. Recently, ARES Defense recommended I replace the receiver due to "excessive wear". I've fired about 2,800 rounds and experienced about 450 bolt ride under malfunction during that time and the receiver is now deemed "worn out". This POS has been an absolute nightmare up until I began stretching the links about a year ago. YMMV I felt the same way till I cleaned the links. The grittiness of the links is gone. When I pushed rounds through before I cleaned them it felt like sandpaper, and the force was high. I had bolt ride unders too till I wet tumbled them. I think beyond the cleaning they were smoothed out. All of my links have been tumbled, cleaned and polished. I've even used the nickel plated links with no success... 
Over the last five years, I've only found two solutions to the problem: 1. Spray the linked ammo with copious amounts of WD40 right before loading the belt. This isn't the best solution because after 200 rounds fired, the system is completely fouled. 2. Stretch the links to the point where the round barely stays linked in the belt. This solution sucks because you spend a lot of time stretching links however, the system generally works. Yes, I've spent five years tinkering with this POS... |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 8:48:11 AM EDT
[#8]
Hkpdw, whaf all springs and buffers have you tried?
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Posted: 4/11/2015 10:37:19 AM EDT
[#9]
HK:
You're getting the dreaded bullet tip wear in the feed ramp. Soon you'll dig a hole that the tip will snag on and you'll be really pissed. I got the plastic guide from Mark Genovese to prevent this issue. It's a friction fit in the top cover. It's $80 or so. I'll take a photo when I get a chance. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 10:57:42 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You are the man Doc! I think that I will go with the Thumbler B model. I read in several reviews that they had a 2 speed motor that you could get but I don't see that listed anywhere so I have a check in to the company on that. Thanks for the info. OH yea. What did you mean about painting the inside of the drum Red? Have you ever heard or used Por-15? it is a rust preventive and I used it on my 78 Vette frame that I swapped out the engine on. Once it sets up you can beat it with a hammer and it will not come off. The B comes in a high or low speed model, not 2 speed I think. Get the high speed. The red drum isn't painted inside. Take out the rubber liner and paint to prevent rust. Mine had started to rust, I cleaned it off, primed then painted it. Also get the 6 plastic knobs from Mcfeelys. (About $1.10 ea). http://www.mcfeelys.com/1-4-20-female-fluted-anti-vibration-knob-qty-1-3gdv3.html It's easier to clamp the lid than the wing nuts it comes with. 
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Posted: 4/11/2015 11:03:28 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hkpdw, whaf all springs and buffers have you tried? All of them. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 11:09:46 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
HK: You're getting the dreaded bullet tip wear in the feed ramp. Soon you'll dig a hole that the tip will snag on and you'll be really pissed. I got the plastic guide from Mark Genovese to prevent this issue. It's a friction fit in the top cover. It's $80 or so. I'll take a photo when I get a chance. No need. I installed Mark's bullet guide a year or two ago. It solves the "bullet catching on the barrel extension" issue however, it does nothing to prevent the "bolt ride under" fail to feed/strip malfunctions. 
Here's a video of another issue for your entertainment... shrike auto-eject barrel |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 11:21:56 AM EDT
[#13]
HK: your Shrike is possessed...
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Posted: 4/11/2015 11:40:59 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: All of them. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Hkpdw, whaf all springs and buffers have you tried? All of them. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 11:43:12 AM EDT
[#15]
Lol at the barrel popping out. Was the cause ever figured out?
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Posted: 4/11/2015 4:53:26 PM EDT
[#16]
The bolt must not have been engaging the barrel extension...every now and then I try to remove the barrel without first locking the bolt back . which makes removal impossible.
If that isn't what caused it I'd be curious as to what did..I always wondered how robust quick change barrel system are..mine seems pretty solid but is new. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 7:06:23 PM EDT
[#17]
My barrel has popped out several times but I always figured it was operator error in my case.
Why I want a SOT ROMYzjS7U1k |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 8:12:59 PM EDT
[#18]
Wow, I wonder how many other experience that. I find that more disturbing than issues with links..
I remove my barrel frequently to check for obstructions.I can easily removed it and feel it lock back in. I also close the bolt with and empty chamber before then resuming loading/firing. I was worried i'd shoot the barrel off. I almost wish I didn't see the video. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 10:21:04 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No need. I installed Mark's bullet guide a year or two ago. It solves the "bullet catching on the barrel extension" issue however, it does nothing to prevent the "bolt ride under" fail to feed/strip malfunctions. http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i220/hkmp5kpdw/topcover2_zpse081e7e3.jpg Here's a video of another issue for your entertainment... shrike auto-eject barrel Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
HK: You're getting the dreaded bullet tip wear in the feed ramp. Soon you'll dig a hole that the tip will snag on and you'll be really pissed. I got the plastic guide from Mark Genovese to prevent this issue. It's a friction fit in the top cover. It's $80 or so. I'll take a photo when I get a chance. No need. I installed Mark's bullet guide a year or two ago. It solves the "bullet catching on the barrel extension" issue however, it does nothing to prevent the "bolt ride under" fail to feed/strip malfunctions. http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i220/hkmp5kpdw/topcover2_zpse081e7e3.jpg Here's a video of another issue for your entertainment... shrike auto-eject barrel dude, you can clearly see that your barrel is not locked in before you fire the rifle. i can see that just from the video. i am betting that this is more a user error issue than it is a shrike issue. i would see if they would sell you a new "upper" minus the top cover. see if they will cover it under warranty. i am sure some of them have issues, but it sounds to me like a user error. i will buy yours off you, for a well under market value(since it doesnt work) if you want to sell it. i am sure i can get it up and running. |
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Posted: 4/11/2015 11:04:36 PM EDT
[#20]
LoL, also I'd note before firing you should try pulling the barrel, away from the upper reciever. Not pull it in.
I was assuming it was you just took the video to recreate or demonstrate a previous witnessed fail. If the bolt locks into the barrel extension. Inspect the release button and the pin that retains the barrel. I would assume it would be an easily fix issue..at least more than the feeding/ bolt ride under issue. We can tell lacesout really wants to buy somones "Junk" shrike.. |
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Posted: 4/12/2015 9:33:59 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LoL, also I'd note before firing you should try pulling the barrel, away from the upper reciever. Not pull it in. I was assuming it was you just took the video to recreate or demonstrate a previous witnessed fail. If the bolt locks into the barrel extension. Inspect the release button and the pin that retains the barrel. I would assume it would be an easily fix issue..at least more than the feeding/ bolt ride under issue. We can tell lacesout really wants to buy somones "Junk" shrike.. You can see me pulling back on the front sight to ensure the barrel is completely locked into place. I also twisted and pulled forward on the barrel right before starting the video. If you watch the video closely, you will notice the barrel release lever move downwards during the recoil cycle. I believe the culprit is the extra added weight of the suppressor in combination with the suppressor back pressure. When I remove the suppressor, the barrel stays locked in place during firing. |
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Posted: 4/12/2015 9:43:54 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
dude, you can clearly see that your barrel is not locked in before you fire the rifle. i can see that just from the video. i am betting that this is more a user error issue than it is a shrike issue. i would see if they would sell you a new "upper" minus the top cover. see if they will cover it under warranty. i am sure some of them have issues, but it sounds to me like a user error. i will buy yours off you, for a well under market value(since it doesnt work) if you want to sell it. i am sure i can get it up and running. dude, the machining tolerances are so high, the weapon will not fire if the barrel is not locked in place. Have you ever heard of a shrike experiencing an out of battery detonation? Nope. I have several other barrels (as seen in the video) and only that particular barrel exhibits this behavior when a suppressor is mounted. |
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Posted: 4/12/2015 3:31:03 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
dude, the machining tolerances are so high, the weapon will not fire if the barrel is not locked in place. Have you ever heard of a shrike experiencing an out of battery detonation? Nope. I have several other barrels (as seen in the video) and only that particular barrel exhibits this behavior when a suppressor is mounted. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
dude, you can clearly see that your barrel is not locked in before you fire the rifle. i can see that just from the video. i am betting that this is more a user error issue than it is a shrike issue. i would see if they would sell you a new "upper" minus the top cover. see if they will cover it under warranty. i am sure some of them have issues, but it sounds to me like a user error. i will buy yours off you, for a well under market value(since it doesnt work) if you want to sell it. i am sure i can get it up and running. dude, the machining tolerances are so high, the weapon will not fire if the barrel is not locked in place. Have you ever heard of a shrike experiencing an out of battery detonation? Nope. I have several other barrels (as seen in the video) and only that particular barrel exhibits this behavior when a suppressor is mounted. say what you want, but your barrel does not look locked into place. the front part does not pop all the way up like it should. again, if your rifle is such a pos, sell it to me for 1500 bucks. ill take it off your hands right now. better yet, just keep complaining instead of contacting the mfg. |
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Posted: 4/12/2015 4:13:23 PM EDT
[#24]
I wish I could have a can.. I wonder if anyone with a can with stripping issues has successfully run an h4 buffer..
The adjustable gas settings are pretty much useless to me at this point..and I don't have enough pressure to use the heavier h4 buffer.. If the dam thing would just strip dirty ,tight links.i'd own more than one By now. |
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Posted: 4/13/2015 3:19:37 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
better yet, just keep complaining instead of contacting the mfg. Really? |
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Posted: 4/13/2015 11:45:09 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Really? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
better yet, just keep complaining instead of contacting the mfg. Really? I guess Dude never tried contacting Ares? They were gonna have me send mine back to them and the Girl I talked to in the office acted like they had never heard of the problem. I had heard about them so there was no way I would send may upper back to them. I later broke my charging handle and it took me two weeks to get someone to return a email or call to replace it. |
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Posted: 4/14/2015 12:03:12 AM EDT
[#27]
I think how fast Ares gets back to you depends if you want service or sales.
When I called to order the 2 new extractors and spare roller stud (again, $330 including shipping  ), I got Delaine right away, and the parts got here in less than a week.
The new extractors are a bit different: the broken one looks like they took too much material off the claw cut, and stepped it, resulting in high stress. |
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Posted: 4/14/2015 4:34:09 AM EDT
[#28]
My extractor looked off day1..but since it functions.i'll worry about it when it doesn't
I'm glad I waited so long to buy my shrike..seems like getting parts isn't a problem like it used to be. |
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Posted: 4/14/2015 2:15:18 PM EDT
[#29]
I bought two Shrikes....one is just for parts!
I would never send them my stuff back. |
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Posted: 4/14/2015 5:38:33 PM EDT
[#30]
I seem to remember one guy waited a year for a repair.
I think I'll just stick with my link stretching pliers... |
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Posted: 4/26/2015 10:06:27 AM EDT
[#31]
Hopefully this week I'll have the plastic guide, and the week after I'll get to take it out.
If I still have issues Not fixed by stretched lubed links I also have a spare milspec buffer tube to try, and an h2 buffer to try. My magpul ubr is giving me issues with my 9mm setup so before I do any modifying I figured I'd swap the stock and just figured I'd try the swap for the strike aswell. I'm excited now do to good weather.. Also I've mostly just been function testing and now I want to get some good targets out and see how I do. Edit It looks like my payment got lost in the mail on the way to Hawaii. It's going to delay me a little longer. I've been very busy and wish I followed up sooner. |
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Posted: 4/26/2015 9:13:53 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hopefully this week I'll have the plastic guide, and the week after I'll get to take it out. If I still have issues Not fixed by stretched lubed links I also have a spare milspec buffer tube to try, and an h2 buffer to try. My magpul ubr is giving me issues with my 9mm setup so before I do any modifying I figured I'd swap the stock and just figured I'd try the swap for the strike aswell. I'm excited now do to good weather.. Also I've mostly just been function testing and now I want to get some good targets out and see how I do. Ultimately, I found the H3 buffer works best with my shrike. |
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Posted: 6/9/2015 8:16:25 AM EDT
[#33]
I received the plastic feed ramp thing yesterday. It took a long time to get my hands on it .
I'm hoping to get out this weekend and blast off 2,000 rounds of max stretched and lubed ammo. I've been very busy but will try to make some time to play.i expect much better result thanks to all your help.i'll keep you guys posted. |
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Posted: 6/9/2015 2:00:09 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I received the plastic feed ramp thing yesterday. It took a long time to get my hands on it . I'm hoping to get out this weekend and blast off 2,000 rounds of max stretched and lubed ammo. I've been very busy but will try to make some time to play.i expect much better result thanks to all your help.i'll keep you guys posted. How did you get one? I need one. My upper strips the rounds out of the belt well. However I have the bullet tip issue. |
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Posted: 6/9/2015 11:59:27 PM EDT
[#35]
One other question for those doing the wet tumbling with SS media. Does it take the parking off the links?
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Posted: 6/12/2015 12:11:40 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One other question for those doing the wet tumbling with SS media. Does it take the parking off the links? It lightens up slightly but mostly seems to remain. I only tumbled for an hour, I think. I used P B Blaster silicone lube. It all worked for me, I have to go out again. It's so expensive to shoot, I limit the amount of full auto rifle caliber shooting I do. $40/ belt... Ouch! |
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Posted: 6/14/2015 5:34:13 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How did you get one? I need one. My upper strips the rounds out of the belt well. However I have the bullet tip issue. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I received the plastic feed ramp thing yesterday. It took a long time to get my hands on it . I'm hoping to get out this weekend and blast off 2,000 rounds of max stretched and lubed ammo. I've been very busy but will try to make some time to play.i expect much better result thanks to all your help.i'll keep you guys posted. How did you get one? I need one. My upper strips the rounds out of the belt well. However I have the bullet tip issue. Pm sent. I might not get out today for testing. Some other event is taking place. |
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Posted: 6/14/2015 6:44:07 AM EDT
[#38]
FWIW, my buddy and I were out at the club yesterday with his Shrike. He has been having problems with the bullet-tip problem and had just installed the plastic block he ordered from Mark Genovese. His Shrike functioned 100% and he said it was the best $100 he ever invested in a firearm.
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Posted: 6/14/2015 8:00:52 AM EDT
[#39]
With the little experience I have with my shrike.the "bullet-tip problem" seemed to be more of an issue with all the factory ammo I ran. And a less common issue with my shorter OAL reloads that have more of a round nose than a point like most 55 and 62 grain factory projectiles.
Regardless just looking at the "feed guide" it seems apparent it will fix the issue, and worse case scenario it can't hurt. |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 10:57:34 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It lightens up slightly but mostly seems to remain. I only tumbled for an hour, I think. I used P B Blaster silicone lube. It all worked for me, I have to go out again. It's so expensive to shoot, I limit the amount of full auto rifle caliber shooting I do. $40/ belt... Ouch! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
One other question for those doing the wet tumbling with SS media. Does it take the parking off the links? It lightens up slightly but mostly seems to remain. I only tumbled for an hour, I think. I used P B Blaster silicone lube. It all worked for me, I have to go out again. It's so expensive to shoot, I limit the amount of full auto rifle caliber shooting I do. $40/ belt... Ouch! Thanks for the info. I am going to go that route too. |
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Posted: 6/15/2015 11:02:57 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pm sent. I might not get out today for testing. Some other event is taking place. Thanks! I emailed him. Hopefully I can get one. Actually I just sent my Shrike back to ARES because of the bullet tip issue. I could alter the feedramp a bit to take care of the issue but I figure I will try the factory fix first. If they take to long I will just have to call them 2-3 times a day! However so far customer service has been very quick and good. So we will see. Still going to get one of these ramps. Cheap insurance! |
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Posted: 6/17/2015 8:46:54 PM EDT
[#42]
I had some of the same problems you had, but worse.
The links dont need to be stretched, they need to have the front rib smoothed out. See my post here. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_23/423995_My_year_long_shrike_saga_I_finally_got_it_back.html Either get the old links (grey park) or smoth the new ones out. Also my shrike will NOT work with 55fmj, only 62gr (62gr HPs are fine as well) 
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Posted: 6/21/2015 1:02:00 PM EDT
[#43]
I finally got to try out my shrike with the feed ramp insert. I love my shrike now.
Out of 800 rounds, I had 3 issue. 2 light primer strikes and 1 projectiles that failed to chamber. clearly an ammo issue do to reloads that's brass was out of spec and/or primer seating depth. The feed ramp insert snapped tightly into place without fitting or modification. The shrike should just come with this part. My stretched and silicon lube links solved all other issues. Thanks for all the help. |
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Posted: 6/21/2015 2:04:06 PM EDT
[#44]
Great to hear!
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Posted: 6/21/2015 10:42:24 PM EDT
[#45]
I am thinking I may be able to increase reliability and performance by operating without the spacer/shim. My buffer tube is basically just shorter than mil Spec = to the thickness of the Aries shim.
I have concerns about the rubber/plastic portion of the buffer weight wearing from use and using up the available tolerance .Although that rubber/plastic material is some resistant stuff. I'm not sure if the risk of impact is worth any gains given how well it is running now. None of my links have as pronounced a ridge/lip as TaylorWSO links have. I am convinced stretching is more practical in my situation, with the links I have. |
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Posted: 6/22/2015 5:52:26 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am thinking I may be able to increase reliability and performance by operating without the spacer/shim. My buffer tube is basically just shorter than mil Spec = to the thickness of the Aries shim. I have concerns about the rubber/plastic portion of the buffer weight wearing from use and using up the available tolerance .Although that rubber/plastic material is some resistant stuff. I'm not sure if the risk of impact is worth any gains given how well it is running now. None of my links have as pronounced a ridge/lip as TaylorWSO links have. I am convinced stretching is more practical in my situation, with the links I have. Just be sure that there is a gap between the roller tower and the rear of the receiver when the bolt is pulled all the way back. The buffer plastic compresses a lot more than you might think when its going back at full velocity, and the tower (roller assembly) will hit the receiver or the edge of the buffer tube and mess up the bolt carrier's finish. It might break the roller, which will cost a lot of money for a spare. |
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Posted: 6/23/2015 6:49:54 AM EDT
[#47]
That is what I am concerned about.i was just hoping I could get it to run with unmodified links..
I'm going to try to run some regular once fired links and see if the feed ramp insert effects that issue. It's been 2 days now and I can't wait to get to the range again. I Didn't even setup any targets last time.i had every other time I tried the strike and didn't want to go through the effort if it was going to be unsuccessful again.a couple people at the range where in disbelief I was just "wasting" so much ammo shooting at nothing. IMO there was nothing wasteful about it. Also to me it wasn't that much ammo. The whole link thing isn't that big of a deal once I get a few thousand more stretched I'll probably be set for life. being newer to full auto it was a real pleasure to run belts. 20-30 round mags go so fast and I haven't really used any of my drums, I don't care for anything hanging from the magwell. The feed rate seemed about the same from the belt as the mag..When I would get a burst from the unmodified links It was more like "duh...duh...duh" and now I am getting a nice "Brahhhhhhhhhh" It's very satisfying to have my strike up and running..I had concerns I made a mistake by buying it. I also liked my Geisselle trigger for the few shots I did try in semi.. I was also pleasantly surprised it was worth the money. Now I just need to get my 5" 9mm running. |
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Posted: 6/25/2015 10:20:45 PM EDT
[#48]
So your Shrike is still not stripping rounds?
The last time I had mine out I was having the bullet tips jam about every three rounds. That said with a cleaning of the links, it fed 100% I was running the Slash XH buffer (8.5oz I think) and the stock Shrike Spring. I had no issues with my ALK marked links. What are your links stamped? Thanks for the info for the plastic Insert from Mark. I ordered one and got it today. Its one serious piece of plastic! You could beat someone to death with this new model. My gun is at ARES with that bullet tip issue. I can't wait to try it when it gets back. Will let you know when it comes back. |
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Posted: 6/26/2015 10:29:14 AM EDT
[#49]
Mine functions 100% now
I have a few kinds of links they all work (don't work) the same.i have ALK links I am waiting to go to the range and try unmodified links. I had thought all along it was a stripping issue combine with the bolt under cartrage issue. Now I am not so sure..perhaps the entire issue was more of a bullet tip issue that at its extreme led to the bolt under cartrage. Mine was a joke out of the box With unmodified once fired links pulling the charging handle was so hard I worried about damaging it. With the lubed and streched, it's so smooth. Sorry for the confusion Edit.. I don't have any wear on the feed guide yet..I was told it was an off white. Mine came in black and must be coated or painted..other than the back Side which shows it's true color I wonder what it is made of and painted with. I wondered if it would wear and figured the black would come off. I don't have a lot of rounds on it yet. Mark said It wouldn't wear out, which so far seems true. |
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