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Posted: 2/28/2015 9:44:38 PM EDT
[#1]
I am not a Shrike expert by no means and hopefully some with more experence with also offer tips. I have heard a lot of people say that theirs run/ran great from the start but I have not had any luck getting mine to run with out expanding the links and lubing them well. I would think that you have run enough Mag.s to pass the break-in. I bought a good pair of O ring plyers and expand the links I read one person say that he did his to where the round slid in & out freely. I don't think I open mine quite that much but it's been a while since I linked any so couldn't say for sure. I have never run any really good Lake City ammo and have heard it makes a difference. I would try expanding some links and spraying them down well with WD-40 or other. After linking I usually place mine in a large zip lock and spray them down good and let them sit till I go shoot. I also have a very good brass catcher to recover the link for reuse.
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Posted: 2/28/2015 10:04:38 PM EDT
[#2]
Thank you.
While the whole point of the shrike is the beltfed IMO. I was very happy with it mag fed.Over the years i've read alot about the shrike. i figured expanding them might help..or even the lube.I also have a very nice brass catcher. i've got 600 more rds rdy for tomorrow. While linking this ammo it seamed easier... but it could easily be i was warm and comfortable rather then freezing in the snow.. the brass used for tommarrows ammo came from Sig acadamy and was once fired belt fed ammo.It is also some of the pretty and shinyest brass i've every used. i've always joked shiny is better but in this case shiny and slippery may help. i'm just going to install that stock shim for laughs and try to work through all that ammo racking as nessisary. i am assumeing she'll start working. If not can you expand the links by taking a whole belt in a jig and stretch the whole belt? Next time i plan to reuse the links and see if they get better. I may run some of the links through the brass polisher to remove the coating or paint on them. I don't think i need much more for them to With the little success i had with the belts i got to feel the difference in cycle speed.From the magazine the speed is ridiculous( I like it) The belts seemed alittle more mellow, but i can't be sure if it will be a little faster when i get it working right. |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 11:03:49 AM EDT
[#3]
Be careful with the charging handle I shred the catch off mine and Ares customer service is very poor. Do you use a linker or do them by hand? There is also a guy in Hawaii that sell a plastic guide for the belts that is supposed to help with feeding. Unfortunately I lost his contact info but you could retrieve it from a M15 Armory search.
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Posted: 3/1/2015 12:44:57 PM EDT
[#4]
It would be helpful to know exactly what is happening when it doesn't run. Is there a round in the chamber? Is the hammer forward or back? Is there a round hung up somewhere in the feed cycle?
The Shrike has a very narrow range of motion for the bolt assembly. The distance between "Not far enough" and "too far" is really small. If there's any evidence of the bolt carrier impacting on the bridge of the lower receiver (Where the butt stock threads in), then install the little washer. It's provided to prevent that happening. If you can't lock the bolt to the rear with the bolt catch, then the bolt isn't going far enough to the rear and there's something going on with the length of your butt stock. I have a very early Shrike and run it with dirty links that haven't been tuned, opened, stretched or dicked with in any way. It runs fine on the medium gas setting, even with steel-cased ammo. |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 2:47:00 PM EDT
[#5]
Went to range today, it was a complete failure.I hand link for now.It just won't strip the bullets from the links.When racking and re-dropping the bolt/carrier it kicks the cartrage on an angle forcing me to open the top cover to clear it.
The carrier isn't hitting the receiver, i was aware of this and careful during the initial break in.I installed the shim anyway it makes no difference in my situation. i'll be calling my dealer tomorrow to inquire about the saw mag adapter which hasn't arrived yet. while i have him on the phone i'm probity going to get some more linked ammo, barrels and spare link. I am also concerned about the charging handle..i was working it pretty hard today. Since i milled my stock for clearance it does prevent bending which i could see being more of a problem with the standard stock extended. I think i need a heavier buffer or spring..It is very close to working and if it just had a more solid forward stroke.I just don't want the heavier buffer and spring to increase feedrate or cause me to need higher pressure ammo to make the carrier go all the way back. there is little wiggle room between all the way back and not far enough back to allow the next round to chamber. IMO which isn't worth much, it's not the links that are the issue. I was alittle more frustrated today. I am still confident i will get it working. Does anyone know the brand name of the heavyier than aries spring? i'm off to look through the forums for it. I belive i read about some people using it.(If it exists and i didn't make this last part up.) I don't plan on lubing or stretching link, not only because it says not to in the directions... i just feel like if that's the issue, something else needs to be done. *edit* The bolt catch works fine, i am sure when i start experimenting i'll hit a point where it won't |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 3:04:49 PM EDT
[#6]
ok so i am thinking either a MGI 2x spring, or possible a WOLF spring. I'd also be tempted to install a long "Shim" or multiple of the ones that came with it..
i'm trying to stick with standard parts and solution other have come up with rather than just start making my own changes. wish it work right out of the box. i'm also thinking it might not work right out of the box due to me not just using a standard stock.. we'll get it working thanks guys.I just don't think the mgi bufferweight is worth the money |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 5:42:30 PM EDT
[#7]
i ordered 2 mgi 2x spring and 2 wolf XP springs . Aswell as an H4 and h2 buffer. I ordered the H2 because i must have given someone my H2.I went with the H4 because the difference between my H3 and my 9mm isn't enough. (like .1 or .2 oz i think)
other than my 9mm rifle, all my rifles just use an H buffer. I'm going to start by trying the different spring, i don't really want to be using the H4. it might fix the my issue but it may cause more at the same time. maybe next weekend i can give it another try. |
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Posted: 3/1/2015 6:07:16 PM EDT
[#8]
OST
And good luck |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 7:53:30 PM EDT
[#9]
I think i am having a break through.I feel a little stupid.. i was certain my stock was a mill-spec carbine buffer tube. I even told my dealer it was... i found this info on the web.
It may also explain why using the spacer functioned slightly worse (mind you we are comparing not working to not working) I think this could also explain why it cycles so fast from the magazine.After comparing photo of the Aries spring,MGI 2x and Wolff. The aftermarket may be just slightly shorter... .. Hopefully armed with this new info and various springs and buffers next weekend will prove successful once again thanks for all the help, as usual it's operator error on my end.... "These measurements are from the rear face of the receiver, to the rear-most tip of the tubes... Carbine Comm-spec. - 7 5/8" Carbine Mil-spec. - 6 3/4" A1/A2 - 9 5/8" "entry length"/UBR/Ace pistol tube - 7 1/8" give or take 1/16" on these measurements. I didn't feel like breaking out the calipers." |
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Posted: 3/2/2015 11:10:29 PM EDT
[#10]
When you mention spacer you are talking about a 2-3" long carbine spacer correct. Also you need to get a couple of Up Tight Saw boxes from Thomas Cassidy and his enlarged bolt catch is nice also.
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Posted: 3/3/2015 12:39:06 AM EDT
[#11]
no.by spacer i mean the spacer that came with it. it's like .125" thick.
I have the enlarged bolt catch and like it very much. IDK why they even provide the cut off one that comes with the basic kit...if it wasn't offered i would have just cut and welded up one because it's stupid without it. i can't own the up tight boxes because of state law. so i am limited to the original style saw boxes. I will get this working, and report back.I think it is the "entry" receiver extension/buffer tube causing my issue do to it being 3/4" shorter than milspec |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 8:10:49 AM EDT
[#12]
The critical measurement on the stocks is the internal length of the tube. There can't be too much variation or the bolt carriers on ARs would be smashing into the receivers all the time, as it's the buffer bottoming out in the buffer tube (receiver extension) that actually stops the rearward motion of the bolt carrier. It may be worth a call to Ares to see if someone there can give you the exact length (internal) of the buffer tube that is supposed to be suitable for the Shrike.
I have done most of my Shriking with a full-length stock, Colt LMG hydraulic buffer, and cut-down MG 34 spring. I like a slower cyclic rate. 
Just out of curiosity, what state law keeps you from buying "up tight" belt boxes? |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 10:00:56 AM EDT
[#13]
Is the Wolff XP spring you ordered the standard AR15 Wolff XP spring?
If you want a really strong spring you might try the Sprinco Orange spring. As the previous poster said, interior length of the receiver extension is the critical number. I have seen quite a bit of variation between different receiver extensions. |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 11:10:50 AM EDT
[#14]
I am pretty sure if you have a collapsable stock you need a spacer, on Rebun's dealernfa.com site it is called a buffer tube extension /full length stock adapter. Mine is a spikes carbine spacer. Why could you run a 200 rnd Nut Sack and not a up tight box that will hold less ends? The up tight box is just a regular 249 box that has been cut out with a magazine mounted into it so it will fit up closer to the gun and not be hanging down so far. He also makes a adapter that will allow the saw boxes to hang off to the side but told me he had really quit doing runs on them since guys had decided that 200 rnds hanging off the side was to unbalanced and the demand had fell off.
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Posted: 3/3/2015 11:14:53 AM EDT
[#15]
Just to make sure:
Your using an UBR, which uses a screw in the back to attach the stock. Your screw is only about 1/2" long right? A longer screw can impede full bolt travel. |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 12:21:24 PM EDT
[#16]
I am aware that it is the internal measurement matters, i believe the magpul UBR which entry length does have a shorter internal measurement.
The reason for the confusion on my end was it has been years since i attach the stock, so i believe i was suffering a brain fart...as-well as it being very close to mil-spec carbine length. While i agree in most cases you need the spacer w/ collapseable stocks, in my situation i believe my buffer tube is already too short..I am surprised it works from the mag and the bolt-catch worked with how it is currently set-up. Yes i do have the correct bolt in the UBR stock, before installing the shrike the first time i looked down the tube to ensure it wasn't sticking out. I will check again though because i seem to be making mistakes *edit* the shim that's in there now has a hole in the middle that would protect against this anyway while installed....i think i will be remove the shim thought i'm hoping the mgi spring will resolve the buffer tube length issue that i think is my problem I will look into the Sprinco Orange spring, i grabbed the wolf springs more as spare parts in general maybe for the shrike maybe not. Isn't the "Full Length Stock Adapter" for running a rifle length buffer tube, where as the shim i have now is to compensate for internal variations in carbine length buffer tubes? I don't think that is what i need..doesn't it just fill space in a rifle length tube?I'm not doubting you, there just isn't a picture of in on rubens. I though it was similar to how some carbine buffers come with a plastic sleeve/spacer so they could be run in a rifle tube? |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 12:22:15 PM EDT
[#17]
i don't want to get into my states laws too much, it would just take alot of typing to explain. The short answer is even though it's just a stupid empty box for me to feel safe owning it it would have to be manufactured pre 1994.
I completely agree about the saw boxes hanging to low, i'm just going to go rambo style. For awhile i thought the nut sacks might be illegal for me to own, after rereading the law the "purse style" nutsacks would be ok. I don't think i'll be ordering one anytime soon. if anything i'l machine a magwell shorter and to directly accept saw boxes. I don't really like anything hanging under the gun and have been shooting from a bench so it's just unnecessary at this point. I would like to own the ones your talking about more then any of the other options but i guess i can't have everything. |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 12:38:09 PM EDT
[#18]
You are correct that the spacer is for rifle length stocks and not needed on your setup.
My initial thought is a stronger spring if it's having difficulty stripping rounds from links. Bolt stroke also comes into play, a full length stroke gives more velocity before the bolt impacts the round to strip it. I would remove the spacer as long as your receiver extension is short enough to prevent impacts with the lower. Another set of springs to try is the Tubb flatwire springs. The .308 version is the same spring with more coils. In my experience, the Wolff XP had less force than the Tubb 5.56 spring, and the Tubb 5.56 has less force than the Sprinco Orange. The Orange is designed as a .308 extra power spring. I haven't tried the MGI spring, as they claim 2x the force of a stock spring they are probably less than an Orange but close to a Sprinco Red. Tubb has a pretty good you tube video covering their flatwire springs, he compares the spring rates for standard mil spec springs, Tubb springs and several of the Sprinco springs. He measures their force both at the bolt closed position and the bolt fully retracted position. |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 12:44:16 PM EDT
[#19]
That's some great info. my biggest cooncer is breakin my dias or carrier/upper&lower reciever. but since the buffertube is short i should be safe.
it is my belief that i need weaker spring,because the belt can't keep up with the gun. maybe stripping isn't even the true problem.It just seemed that way. Supposedly the MGI 2x can be used in rifle or carbine length tubes and still have the same amount of force (x2) at either compressed length.I am hoping this will compensate for my shorter buffertube |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 12:52:47 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's some great info. my biggest cooncer is breakin my dias or carrier/upper&lower reciever. but since the buffertube is short i should be safe. it is my belief that i need weaker spring,because the belt can't keep up with the gun. maybe stripping isn't even the true problem.It just seemed that way. Supposedly the MGI 2x can be used in rifle or carbine length tubes and still have the same amount of force (x2) at either compressed length.I am hoping this will compensate for my shorter buffertube If I understand what your saying, the belt is not being positioned properly for feeding the next round. To slow the cycle down I would increase weight rather than decreasing spring strength. A heavier buffer like the MGI or some of Slashes offerings might be a better option. How long are the belts your trying to pull? Are they dragging on the feed ramps coming in? |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 1:16:27 PM EDT
[#21]
I've had no luck regardless of belt length..i've held the belt so a section of 10 or 15 should be able to zip right in.
The last thing i tried was putting tension on the belt because i wanted to feel how much force was pulling the belt i am hard to understand, it postions the round fine. just when it fails to feed and i rack it, if it doesn't feed the next time it then gets kicked projectile nose to the left. I already order one of Slash's H4 or i think he calls it HSS. when i thought it was just a stripping problem i ordered the H4 and figured that would solve feeding and reduce the RoF. Now since it runs like a raped ape from mags, and I suspect my buffer tube is too short a lighter or perhaps different spring may make it work with an H3 buffer...... but may not fix the feeding issue. If my buffer tube is too short. i guess it's possible that no combination of this will work..I would think since the bolt-catch functions it isn't short stroking, getting feeding and ROF where i want it should be possible as a side note while being super fast, it didn't seem like there was any recoil....or at-least compared to my 7.5 upper.But i have never tried a heavy buffer before. |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 1:43:19 PM EDT
[#22]
There is a lot more weight to absorb recoil with the Shrike. If you were local we could meet up and try and work through the issues. Problems are almost always easier to solve in person. I don't have a whole lot of experience with the shrike personally. I have helped a local 07/02 get one running but that's been a few years. IIRC he ended up opening the gas port on that one to get it running with wolf.
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Posted: 3/3/2015 2:17:10 PM EDT
[#23]
Based on what you are reporting (rounds are not being stripped properly) I don't think you need a heavier buffer or stronger spring unless the factory Ares spring is defective somehow. The factor Ares spring is a monster strong spring. The Ares spring is longer than a A2 rifle spring and which is then stuffed into a carbine extension.
I run the Sprinco blue spring (which is just one notch in power above a standard M4 spring and is way less strong than the factory Ares spring) and have no issues stripping rounds from links. If the Ares spring isn't stripping rounds (and it is not defective) than there may be something wrong with the links you have (allowing them to bind) or the cartridge guides in the top cover are not holding the cartridge properly allowing it to come out of the links. Some helpful pics would be. 1. Picture of your feed tray looking straight down into the receiver. 2. Picture of your feed tray looking and an angle into the barrel extension. 3. Recoil spring removed from the stock and the carrier dropped into the extension until it bottoms out and a pic looking down into the lower showing the gap between the buffer tube ring and the top of the carrier (so we can see the gap) 4. Pics of your links (top and bottom) 5. Pic of the failure from the right side before opening the top cover and then from the top right after opening the top cover. Does the upper work in Semi-Auto from a belt without a the DIAS in? Will it cycle rounds manually by hand from a belt if you pull the charging handle back and forth or does it bind up manually as well? |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 3:01:25 PM EDT
[#24]
When i get a chance i'll take photos...
It does not not function belt fed in semi. or atleast not reliably. most i've gotten is 10 rd in semi before failure I like to have the bolt locked back,insert the belt,close top cover then press the bolt catch to drop it forward chambering the first round, this works almost all of the time. when placing the belt in and racking it rarely it won't feed completely.I am not riding the charging handle back in,I just drop it I think sometimes when charging it from a closed bolt i may not pull it completely back do to how i try to be gently with new things... i'm getting over it.I just was trying to not be to ruff right off the bat. it doesn't work reliable in semi and is worse full auto...i may try putting it on a different semii lower that already has the correct buffer tube on it. i just thought of this I find it hard to believe it's the links.. i haven't fired enough beltfed to have alot of links already run through it. If it is the links do you think after running them through the gun several times they'll open up by themselves? i would assume so, bu have no experience with belt feds. i test fitted some of the fire links on some of the fired brass and they didn't seem any different than before they where fired. They are Aries links... 3. Recoil spring removed from the stock and the carrier dropped into the extension until it bottoms out and a pic looking down into the lower showing the gap between the buffer tube ring and the top of the carrier (so we can see the gap) This will probably be the most informative picture.. i wonder if i have to, if i can remove some material from the plastic plug in the buffer weight if i do need a small adjustment due to my buffer being short |
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Posted: 3/3/2015 3:46:47 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Based on what you are reporting (rounds are not being stripped properly) I don't think you need a heavier buffer or stronger spring unless the factory Ares spring is defective somehow. The factor Ares spring is a monster strong spring. The Ares spring is longer than a A2 rifle spring and which is then stuffed into a carbine extension. I run the Sprinco blue spring (which is just one notch in power above a standard M4 spring and is way less strong than the factory Ares spring) and have no issues stripping rounds from links. If the Ares spring isn't stripping rounds (and it is not defective) than there may be something wrong with the links you have (allowing them to bind) or the cartridge guides in the top cover are not holding the cartridge properly allowing it to come out of the links. Some helpful pics would be. 1. Picture of your feed tray looking straight down into the receiver. 2. Picture of your feed tray looking and an angle into the barrel extension. 3. Recoil spring removed from the stock and the carrier dropped into the extension until it bottoms out and a pic looking down into the lower showing the gap between the buffer tube ring and the top of the carrier (so we can see the gap) 4. Pics of your links (top and bottom) 5. Pic of the failure from the right side before opening the top cover and then from the top right after opening the top cover. Does the upper work in Semi-Auto from a belt without a the DIAS in? Will it cycle rounds manually by hand from a belt if you pull the charging handle back and forth or does it bind up manually as well? Great info on the Ares spring, I know they were stronger but it would be nice to know exactly how much force they are exerting at bolt close and bolt retracted. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 10:26:42 AM EDT
[#26]
Going over this thread I didn't read where you have now acquired a mil spec. buffer tube. The Shrike was designed for the Colt M-16A1 with the collapsible stock at first, then they came out with the full stock adapter for standard rifles. While I have a Colt M-16A1 and a Gen 5 Shrike I have had nothing but 6000 rounds of bliss. I have been following all posts from 13 years ago and trouble shooting problems. Now while you bring into having a RDIAS, I can't imagine how this might complicates things. But I would also like to know what brand hammer, disconnector, trigger, springs in the lower. I did not read in the beginning of this thread where you had this DIAS work perfect on other hosts. Does it? And you say your Shrike is new. Is it a Gen 5? Like to know what brands of ammo is being used as well. I'm just trying to get more info than what's being posted so far. I want to hear your doing 200 round dumps...
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Posted: 3/5/2015 4:53:04 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The critical measurement on the stocks is the internal length of the tube. There can't be too much variation or the bolt carriers on ARs would be smashing into the receivers all the time, as it's the buffer bottoming out in the buffer tube (receiver extension) that actually stops the rearward motion of the bolt carrier. It may be worth a call to Ares to see if someone there can give you the exact length (internal) of the buffer tube that is supposed to be suitable for the Shrike. I have done most of my Shriking with a full-length stock, Colt LMG hydraulic buffer, and cut-down MG 34 spring. I like a slower cyclic rate. Just out of curiosity, what state law keeps you from buying "up tight" belt boxes? You said your using an MG 34 spring, that's the main recoil spring right? http://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/NEW-PRODUCTION-MG34-MAIN-RECOIL-SPRING-16p2484.htm http://www.brpguns.com/products/MG34-Mainspring-%252d-new.html |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 5:42:20 PM EDT
[#28]
Sorry it took so long to get the pics....i learned a few things.but first check out this little kid doing a shrike belt dump.makes me jealous
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoEfk6oLRVw So to answers a few questions, mine is a gen 5, My FCG was the cheapest i could find. geisele will be come when i recover from the shrike purchase and get it working(or maybe when it is instock atleast). My RDIAS has worked in every Host it's been tried in, it came with a .050" shim which has worked on every real lug except the shrike.I made a .035 shim for the shrike and it seem to be time correctly. it runs flawless from mags. I'm now convinced buffer tube lenght isn't my issue. i never ended up measuring, i think you'll see why from the photos. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 5:42:54 PM EDT
[#29]
Photo of carrier when all the way back with no buffer or spring in the tube. it contact the rear or the upper receiver..no other contact was made with the lower.
http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/MGnoob/media/GEDV0004_zpsmh5lo8mt.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2 Photo of the carrier all the way back, no shim, no spring, but with the h3 bufer installed http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/MGnoob/media/GEDV0003_zpsepezlqzj.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3 I didn't take a photo of it with the shim in.....the carrier would just be forward the thickness of the shim.here is a photo of the stock where i had it milled for charging handle clearance http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/MGnoob/media/GEDV0005_zpstweiwydz.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 So i believe this confirms the buffer tube is not the problem what do you think? I received my h4 (HSS) buffer from slashes and planed to modify either the h3 or h4 to compensate for the buffer tube length. fortunately i won't be doing that. Slash's buffer showed up promptly, well packaged. while a basic part it appear to be well executed no burrs gouges or tooling marks. it did weight .2 ounce over spec. With this buffer in the gun i did not drop it on an empty chamber, but both in my hand and when charging and release you can certainly tell it's heavier. hopefully when i do some testing this week end this will work....but i am skeptical it seems like it should work as is. it is alittle dirty so i think i'll lube her up real good and if i have i'm going to lube the belts... i just want to do a mag dump |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 5:47:44 PM EDT
[#30]
If it is ammo related do to to low of pressure i may through an H2 in there just to try it.
i've tried several kinds of ammo most notably m855 that my dealer has been running |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 5:50:37 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Photo of carrier when all the way back with no buffer or spring in the tube. it contact the rear or the upper receiver..no other contact was made with the lower. http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/MGnoob/media/GEDV0004_zpsmh5lo8mt.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2 Photo of the carrier all the way back, no shim, no spring, but with the h3 bufer installed http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/MGnoob/media/GEDV0003_zpsepezlqzj.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3 I didn't take a photo of it with the shim in.....the carrier would just be forward the thickness of the shim.here is a photo of the stock where i had it milled for charging handle clearance http://s1339.photobucket.com/user/MGnoob/media/GEDV0005_zpstweiwydz.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 So i believe this confirms the buffer tube is not the problem what do you think? I received my h4 (HSS) buffer from slashes and planed to modify either the h3 or h4 to compensate for the buffer tube length. fortunately i won't be doing that. Slash's buffer showed up promptly, well packaged. while a basic part it appear to be well executed no burrs gouges or tooling marks. it did weight .2 ounce over spec. With this buffer in the gun i did not drop it on an empty chamber, but both in my hand and when charging and release you can certainly tell it's heavier. hopefully when i do some testing this week end this will work....but i am skeptical it seems like it should work as is. it is alittle dirty so i think i'll lube her up real good and if i have i'm going to lube the belts... i just want to do a mag dump   
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Posted: 3/5/2015 5:52:55 PM EDT
[#32]
Can you take a picture with the buffer and spring in place and bolt fully retracted?
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:00:09 PM EDT
[#33]
Not right now, but i will...It doesn't appear to be any different with the spring in.
is it ok to fire from a mag with the top cover open? i was concerned the mag would force the feed tray to flip up.. i would like to be able to see the travel although i doubt it will give any insight into the belt fed aspect. when i go to the range i'll provide the other pictures. i just didn't want to put ammo while not being at the range. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:03:09 PM EDT
[#34]
Have you tried feeding belts by hand, just cycling the rounds through slowly to watch for issues?
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:06:47 PM EDT
[#35]
OP, do you not have the quarter spacer from Ares in your stock preventing the roller from hitting the back of the upper receiver?
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:10:30 PM EDT
[#36]
No i do not have the shim/spacer in. I do not believe i require it.
Yes i have cycled by hand it works about 95% of the time. as far as looking. it's a little hard to see in there while loaded. i'll be sure to remove the brass catcher and take a video. i guess i'll have to try a belt of 2-4 rds so i can see as good as possible. Thank you for all the help and thank-you for embedding my photos...i haven't been able to get it to work myself yet. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:15:15 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP, do you not have the quarter spacer from Ares in your stock preventing the roller from hitting the back of the upper receiver? Do you mean in the top cover? i've been only looking to see if the roller hits the back of the upper that is the last the holds the top cover closed..... *edit* this sounds dumb.. i mean in the photo where the gap is between the carrier/upper receiver/ and where the buffer tube threads into the lower receiver.......or should i be looking somewhere other than in the photo? |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:15:24 PM EDT
[#38]
Just a heads up, the bumper on the buffer can squish quite a bit if the bolt is moving fast enough. I would check for impacts after the first couple of rounds to make sure it's not squishing too much and kissing the receiver.
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:19:06 PM EDT
[#39]
i have thought of that.. i will be watching that closely.. if it functions better with the H4. i am going to try it with the spacer. to leave room for this wear
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:20:47 PM EDT
[#40]
When i took it apart today for the photos i thought the roller was cracked or damaged... it wasn't i didn't realize at first that you press the roller in to allow it to be removed from the upper receiver.
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Posted: 3/5/2015 6:36:03 PM EDT
[#41]
I probably should put the shim back in.. i originally thought my buffer tube length was restricting travel say up to 3/4". now that i know that's not the case the less than .25" of the shim shouldn't make a difference and is worth the safety aspect of if. i was just trying to ensure maximum travel.
i think i just need lube, different ammo/links, or the h2 or h4 buffers...i mean other than that i don't see what else there is to do. i've tried different gas setting with the belt feed. i'm going to be sure to try the different setting from the mag. just to see how low i can set it and have it function. i just broke it in on high like recommended and went from there. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 9:05:23 PM EDT
[#42]
Mine has never reliably stripped rounds from the links until...
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_23/414212_Ideas_on_M27_link_expander_.html |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 9:38:31 PM EDT
[#43]
Now that i am past the buffer tube lenght thing, i'll try anything.
I'm going to try H4 hoping the extra mass forward will strip the round, if it is a low pressure ammo thing and the feeding from belt is is useing to much of the available energy maybe i should use the H2. and it's lighter weight may aid in not wasting energy i may need to get the carrier all the way back...This may cause further stripping issuse. I guess it could easily be the link since regardless of ammo it seems to be experiencing the same problem. I may not receiver my H2 by the weekend, so if i have to wait for the next weekend i'll probably have some time to expand some links. i can't imagine them needing to be much looser i wouldn't want them sloppy, the belt freely folds and pivots but the bass can't be easily bespun in place.they feel fine now but IDK what i am talking about and will have to try this suggestion... |
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Posted: 3/6/2015 8:30:12 PM EDT
[#44]
Dude just try expanding some likes and get it going rather than fretting with the tube length & spring strength. I know that some say they have never had to expand links on their's but they are the lucky ones. If you don't want to try the ring plyers here is a link to a guy who is selling a rod to size them. I may even get me one even though I have a $15 set of plyers and can or at lest think I can expand links pretty uniformly.
http://www.subguns.com/classifieds/index.cgi?db=nfapartsandaccys&website=&language=&session_key=&search_and_display_db_button=on&results_format=long&db_id=5202&query=retrieval |
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Posted: 3/7/2015 12:03:05 AM EDT
[#45]
I'll have to order one of those link sizing rods....I'd usually make something like that but for $25 I'll have to give that a try.
Thanks for posting the link I would have assumed with how few of us there are we'd been on our own. I would think the rod would be more consistent. I received my MGI springs. if neither of the buffers work....h2 won't strip.....H4 strips bUT is too heavy for low pressure ammo to completely cycle back. I may try the mgi spring with the H4. H2 never came in mail..i couldn't get one locally. |
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Posted: 3/7/2015 1:10:41 AM EDT
[#46]
This guy sell a hard plastic insert that fits into the ( I think ) top cover and helps to guide the belt and is supposed to help with feeding. I have one but not sure of it's location. I thought I had lost his contact info but I forget about the search feature on my email and gave it a try and found him. The guy is super nice send him a email. His name is Mark Genovese
[email protected] |
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Posted: 3/7/2015 5:45:02 PM EDT
[#47]
H4 was too heavy and the bolt catch would not work from the mag.It would work with the mgi spring but not reliably .
so I went back to the stock setup, and it did eat most of a belt...go figure. This week I'll work on expanding links and look into this guide. Is that what I see some people using to prop open their topcover?dDo you have a photo? dam topcover almost bit my nose off today. |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 12:44:27 AM EDT
[#48]
Just order links,I've been sizing the ones I have over a .385 rod.. brass measure .375. Links measure .365 on the tang side after sizing.
I think the right size for sizing would be about .370 so when I make a tool at the shop Monday I'll make it .395-.4. they are quite springy if I need too iI'll polish down the tool a few .001. The side I am not sizing is between.380-.385.i see no need to play with this side. Simple enough and in a week or two I'll report back and we'll close the thread. I appreciate the help, I had fun today. I can't wait to get some good targets down range to mow over. *edit I also sent an email to Hawaii about the plastic feed guide, I'm not sure if I need it but am looking in tty of it. |
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Posted: 3/8/2015 10:41:59 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This week I'll work on expanding links and look into this guide. Is that what I see some people using to prop open their topcover?dDo you have a photo? dam topcover almost bit my nose off today. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_2_415/248760_Cartridge_guide___Update_05_08_w__pix_____Update_5_10_.html The guide does eliminate the round from getting stuck on the barrel extension however, it does nothing to fix the "bolt ride under" / fail to feed malfunctions due to tight links. |
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Posted: 3/9/2015 6:06:13 AM EDT
[#50]
That looks like a worthwhile product.
I sized about 40 links before developing a blister. I am starting to think the pliers may be the way to go. I did order some SS round an SS pipe to make temporary sizer. I am looking into making a link sizing plate c for a hand linking machine. I kind of want to go cheap but I would like something to size bent b links.my guess would be if they where already sized I wouldn't be bending them |
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