Newbie questions:

Is there a 9mm conversion that is not too expensive and uses UZI mags? Because UZI mags are the best mag cost / value ratio on earth.

how about a 22 kit? one that uses mags that are not poor quality and/or unobtainable?

How about spare parts and must-have upgrades for the A1? New FGC parts? Springs?

Thanks

what are those little link things on the side of m16s, looks like some kind of aftermarket pin reinforcement

which cheap uppers are generally the best for the $$$?

would any upper fit a colt M16a1 made around (I think) 1979?

I really need to do either a sticky of this, or patent it:

My recommendations when you buy a new M16:

––Buy a complete fire-control system. Remember, your M16 is at least 26 years old; there no way to tell how many rounds have gone down the tube. Starting with fresh FC parts means zero wear, and give you the best odds for trouble-free use for years. If your RR is a factory Colt, carefully pack away the original FC parts; that way, you can restore it to original whenever you want.

I only recommend Colt FC parts, because I've never come across an out-of-spec Colt FC part in over 30 years fixing these. Any other source is hit-and-miss. If you have a C&R license ($10 for 3 years), Brownell's will give you dealer cost on them.

––Get a new set of springs (hammer, trigger, disconnector and recoil). Springs are the "oil" in a machine gun: They cushion and protect the parts against wear. Even age without use may weaken them.Start with fresh springs, and change them regularly (every 10k rounds for 5.56 only; every 5k rounds if you shoot 9mm, 7.62x39, etc.).

––The KNS pins are excellent insurance if you shoot any caliber besides 5.56, and even some 5.56 extreme shorties are hard on the gun. Hammer and trigger pins are steel or SS; they ride in holes in an alloy wall. So with every cycle, any impact is transmitted through the steel pins, and the receiver walls take all the wear.

The KNS pins, OTOH, lock the front pins to the rear, thus distributing any impact to four holes instead of two. It's like when you lift a tree: It's easier for four guys to lift it instead of two.

––If you do run 9mm, get your bolt ramped. This will greatly reduce the impact on the disconnector during cycling (I've seen disconnectors damned near flattened) and thus reduce the impact being transmitted through the pins to the receiver wall.

Uppers:

OK, I sound like a broken record ... but Colt uppers are, in my experience, more consistently reliable in full-auto use. I don't look for the "cheapest reliable" alternative, because when you pay $15-25k for a gun, IMHO you should follow through with top quality parts. I don't use the cheapest gas, or run the cheapest tires, on my Camaro SS, either. I would rather pay for performance, instead of handicapping my tools and increasing the risk of failure.

BTW, you can often get really low-round-count factory Colt takeoff uppers from law enforcement use. Typically, they are cosmetically challenged, but rarely shot as much in their life as you will shoot the first weekend. I've bought ugly-but-mint-inside Colt M4A2 14.5" uppers for as little as $350, and they are my blaster uppers.

That allows me to baby my collection of "prize" uppers collected over the years: 20" LMG, 20" A1 pencil barrel, 16" RO920, 14.5" M4A3, 14.5" M4A3 SOCOM, 11.5" Commando, 11.5" 607, 7" DOE 9mm. The only non-Colt upper I own is an LRM M169 integrally suppressed upper that Lee Minor made to my specs.

Get a couple of "blaster" used Colts for those mag dumps, then start building your own set of personal favorites.

HTH. Have fun!

Are there any colt factory 9mm FA flattop uppers?

What's the legal status on those shorty M16 uppers? I mean with respect to them being an SBR if attached to a regular AR15.

Also, what about pin sizes, is there a reference anywhere, shows what uppers and lowers have what?

Thanks

Thanks Tony, this thread is great.

Is there a 9mm suppressor you could use on an M16 for both 9mm and 223?

Most if not all 9mm cans on the market today will not handle F/A 5.56 especially on a short barrel. You would be much better off buying a dedicated 5.56 can and a user serviceable 9mm can so you could use it for 9mm, 300 blackout and .22 without filling the can up with lead and propellant residue.

I use a YHM Phantom on my 5.56 uppers and a SWR Trident on my 9mm and 300 fireball MG's and they both perform very well.

You can order a "5.56 can" and ask the mfg to open up the freebore so you can use it with 9mm, too - or modify it to open up the freebore yourself. A full auto rated centerfire rifle suppressor will stand up to a near-infinite amount of centerfire pistol fire.

However, its effectiveness as a 5.56 can will probably be reduced by opening it up to pass .357 9mm bullets.

What do you think of the bowers CAC9 can on the M16?

I've used one on a MAC10/9, it reduces the sound from incredo-loud to chainsaw loud

It's not the hollywood movie performance I was expecting but the reduction in sound volume is very impressive.

I've been reading up on suppression, mostly everything you see about it is purely subjective.

9mm supersonic ammo crackles like a downed electric line, it must add 20 db

Nice Video Tony.

I have a video of a guy shoot a GG that is that quite. The sound of brass hitting the ground and grown man giggleing was louder..