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Posted: 2/11/2012 9:49:08 PM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT Colt H Buffer - fail 1pc 9mm Buffer - fail H3 buffer - fail Is there something else we can try? Is there another buffer we should try? So far the buffer experiments have been free. I'm reluctant to tell my friend to go buy a $100 item only to have it not work. |
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Posted: 2/11/2012 10:48:14 PM
Can you run an entire magazine on semi? I had a broken hammer spring that caused light primer strikes on semi & full.
With one round in the magazine will the bolt lock back after ejecting the brass? How new is the buffer spring? |
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Posted: 2/11/2012 11:20:11 PM
Originally Posted By Shermantor-AR15:
Can you run an entire magazine on semi? I had a broken hammer spring that caused light primer strikes on semi & full. With one round in the magazine will the bolt lock back after ejecting the brass? How new is the buffer spring? Yes, runs perfect on semi. With the car stock it passes the lock back on empty mag test...but won't run due to light strikes after first round. With the rifle stock/buffer it doesn't always lock back on the empty mag test...but runs better. We actually stuck a Popsicle stick behind the mag which forced the mag forward and reduced "short stroke" issues. During the Popsicle stick test it ran reliable, but SLOW. The car buffer spring has a couple thousand rounds through it. |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 7:09:25 AM
Ammo specific?
Any chance hammer notch or autosear worn, hammer or autosear springs marginally weak? Springs are easy and inexpensive. Static autosear test OK (hammer doesn't follow, timing ok, drops when locked)? Sam |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 9:53:57 AM
[Last Edit: 2/12/2012 10:18:56 AM by BRADLEYBUILT]
No one cure is the same for another 16's bounce. The design of this rifle makes bounce issues. First off I have found the buffers are one way to try to cure bounce, and complete uppers are the other. The barrel ext. and the carrier are to blame for the harmonics of the bounce.(just like leting a steel ball bearing hit a concrete floor it bounces) Use a different longer or shorter barreled upper(friends or one of your own try to keep it a shorter barrel under14.5")to see if the m16 will run with car stock.
If it wont run than its going to take some chedder to get it figured out, unless you live in NW Ohio. I have been down this road not too long ago and have purchashed extra and low power hammer and recoil springs, bcm H enidine mgi buffers, Lower parts kit(for timming), lots of ammo, and a high speed camera. One of these combos will work. I will help you if your in my area. I have all the parts and camera to get it figured out. A hammer retarder would be the cats ass for this issue, while slowing down your ROF. |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 9:12:38 PM
Originally Posted By Samuel_Hoggson:
Ammo specific? Any chance hammer notch or autosear worn, hammer or autosear springs marginally weak? Springs are easy and inexpensive. Static autosear test OK (hammer doesn't follow, timing ok, drops when locked)? Sam We haven't tried many different ammo types. We have tried multiple uppers...one 5.56x11.5", and one 5.45x10". We installed a Wolff extra power hammer spring in the lower so we could run 5.45 surplus ammo, but have not replaced any other springs. Maybe we will give that a try next. When hand cycling everything seems to be timed perfect. I sure wish I was closer to Ohio...I really appreciate the offer. |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 10:10:28 PM
[Last Edit: 2/12/2012 10:12:05 PM by gmtmaster]
Put the gun back to standard 20" configuration. Totally stock, no heavy buffers, crap hung on the gun etc. Then work backwards.
At this point you have a gun that doesn't run, and have no idea what the problem is. Throwing in different variables complicates things. |
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Posted: 2/12/2012 11:29:47 PM
[Last Edit: 2/12/2012 11:38:07 PM by clikclikpull]
Originally Posted By gmtmaster:
Put the gun back to standard 20" configuration. Totally stock, no heavy buffers, crap hung on the gun etc. Then work backwards. At this point you have a gun that doesn't run, and have no idea what the problem is. Throwing in different variables complicates things. I know it runs as a rifle. My goal here is to make it work as a shorty. In the OP I mention that the problems begin when short barrels & car stocks are added. |
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Posted: 2/13/2012 10:31:01 AM
[Last Edit: 2/13/2012 11:00:26 AM by BRADLEYBUILT]
[/quote]
We haven't tried many different ammo types. We have tried multiple uppers...one 5.56x11.5", and one 5.45x10". We installed a Wolff extra power hammer spring in the lower so we could run 5.45 surplus ammo, but have not replaced any other springs. Maybe we will give that a try next. When hand cycling everything seems to be timed perfect. I sure wish I was closer to Ohio...I really appreciate the offer. [/quote] I do know the extra power hammer spring may make the hammer follow problem worse. What happens with that spring is it decreases the lock time of the hammer. So with bolt bounce the hammer will hit the carrier as its bouncing back. I know that the ammo you want to use people say it has a military primer and needs the extra power spring. I have no experiance with this ammo so I would give up on it for now and get the 556 to run first. Its a long shot to offer any help through the internet but my only combo of parts that could help your friend out would be to order a MGI or Enidine buffer, JP enterprises 5lb trigger hammer spring set(or the 4lb but it may be to light for the 22 conversion or bolth their only $10), Tubb CS or MGI flatwire extra power recoil spring, and some ammo This is about a $200 gamble from Midway. |
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Posted: 2/13/2012 11:18:07 AM
HOLD UP! A user named Jerad has found some interesting info on the Ferfrans ROF bolt carrier. If I can get my hands on THREE of these I will tell you if it is a fix all for bolt bounce. This may take some time. I'll keep you posted.
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Posted: 2/13/2012 12:05:12 PM
Doesn't spikes make a heavier buffer with tungsten shot in it? That might be worth a try.
But a friend-of-a-friend went the bubba route, pulled out his buffer spring, pulled it until it was permanently stretched out a little bit, and put it back in. While I did go at the bubba-ness... I have to admit, it did work. ![]() |
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Posted: 2/13/2012 2:01:05 PM
[Last Edit: 2/13/2012 2:04:36 PM by Shermantor-AR15]
Originally Posted By clikclikpull:
We installed a Wolff extra power hammer spring in the lower so we could run 5.45 surplus ammo, but have not replaced any other springs. Maybe we will give that a try next. When hand cycling everything seems to be timed perfect. I bet it's the wolff extra power hammer spring as someone else pointed out it might cause a faster strike. Go back to a milspec AR15/M16 hammer spring. If all else fails, get a Vltor A5 buffer tube and buffer system, runs about $100.00. |
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Posted: 2/14/2012 12:08:23 PM
[Last Edit: 2/14/2012 12:09:13 PM by Dawg180]
Originally Posted By clikclikpull:
Originally Posted By gmtmaster:
Put the gun back to standard 20" configuration. Totally stock, no heavy buffers, crap hung on the gun etc. Then work backwards. At this point you have a gun that doesn't run, and have no idea what the problem is. Throwing in different variables complicates things. I know it runs as a rifle. My goal here is to make it work as a shorty. In the OP I mention that the problems begin when short barrels & car stocks are added. Go back to the OEM hammer spring, leave the CAR stock tube on with a "normal" weight carbine buffer and spring. See if it will run in that configuration with the original 20" upper. If not, the carbine stock is the issue. If so, then likely it is trying to run a short barrel that may be the issue. If it runs, try installing the rifle stock/buffer assembly and then using the shorty upper. If it runs only one of the two ways that helps narrow it down. If it runs both ways that also helps narrow it down. As said, there are lots of variables, and you can flounder around in the dark trying to guess at which it is, or you can go back to the point where it worked and try one thing at a time. [ETA] also, what length shorty upper(s) are you trying? |
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Posted: 2/14/2012 2:36:12 PM
Like said go back to the beginning and start working back.
One of mine only took adding an H3 buffer the other a Tubbs flat wire buffer spring. Double check everything, gas rings, springs even that the brl is properly tensioned then start working to where you want to be and don’t overlook the gas port size / frt. sight alignment & seal. Consider it a journey not a destination. |
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Posted: 2/14/2012 7:10:28 PM
[Last Edit: 2/14/2012 7:15:04 PM by a308garand]
The advise about returning the rifle to original spec, then working towards the carbine set-up.....very good to follow.
Also look at the firing pin protrusion, http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26477/sku=080-216-013/Product/AR-15-M16-Firing-Pin-Gauge If the firing pin is at the ragged edge of being close to minimum, I could see to failing to get a solid hit when the bolt is moving into lock-up faster. |
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Posted: 2/17/2012 3:57:16 PM
My M16 would not run with a Gissele full auto FCG. The fast lock time messed up the timing. Go back to the standard spring, see what happens.
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Posted: 2/18/2012 2:36:57 AM
[Last Edit: 2/18/2012 10:07:30 AM by BRADLEYBUILT]
Any updates clikclikpull?
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Posted: 2/18/2012 10:20:22 AM
No update yet. My friend is doing some traveling so it may be a bit
I appreciate the advice from all. After discussing with my friend he did make one thing clear. He is absolutely set on getting a 5.45 running in order to feed it cheap surplus ammo. What ever we do removing the heavy hammer spring is not really a direction he wants to go...the gun will not see much 5.56 use and he wants to tailor the lower to 5.45 if necessary. We are looking at Spikes Upper & Buffer combos...either 16, or 8". Anybody have experience with them in a MG? |
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Posted: 2/19/2012 10:14:21 AM
Is it a COLT UPPER ? AND what length?
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Posted: 2/19/2012 1:14:41 PM
http://www.heavybuffers.com/reference.html
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Posted: 2/29/2012 9:39:43 PM
Get a spikes tactical ST-T2 buffer. It has a tungsten powder in it which acts like a dead blow hammer when it locks into battery.
I've used this on a few problem rifles with excellent results. http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z/lower-parts-spikes-stt2-heavy-buffer-p-201.html |
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Posted: 5/2/2012 4:04:36 PM
The Spike T2 buffers are out of stock for at least 90 days so I ordered a Colt H2 from Brownells. My Colt seems to be experiencing bolt bounce after changing out the 16" barrel to a 11.5" HBar profile. My M16A1 still has the original carbine buffer and spring,at the moment.
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Posted: 5/8/2012 5:10:53 AM
If it's failing with the 9mm and H3 buffer, then the buffer isn't your issue here. I would first check the timing of the auto-sear with the short upper. If it's good to go, then I would try a new hammer spring.
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Posted: 5/9/2012 1:43:39 PM
This can be very frustrating....and expensive to remedy. Just last week I had some similar issues in a Factory Colt commando upper that did not want to work. Shooting wolf (556) ammo really exaggerated the issues too.
Oddly, the gun wouldn't run with an HK 416 buffer, H buffer, standard buffer but worked perfectly with an H2 buffer I haven't heard alot of people mention it, but I have had great success with this counterweight buffer from DPMS DPMS COUNTERWEIGHT BUFFER A5 buffer system from VLTOR as mentioned above might help. You buffer selection is pretty good so I would start changing springs in the lower and work backwards from there. I too suspect it might be a trigger pack issue. |
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Posted: 5/10/2012 2:22:12 PM
I have the AA pdw upper and it wouldn't run until I put an h3 in it. Tried colt b and x to slow it down some. B worked good, x didn't.
JP makes a carrier weight insert that can also help. |
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Posted: 5/11/2012 1:18:31 AM
[Last Edit: 5/11/2012 1:19:57 AM by Clint50]
I changed out the H buffer in my Colt to an H2,last night,and took it to the range today. Still no joy.
Thanks |
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