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Posted: 2/13/2016 2:31:57 AM EDT
Had a problem at the range this week.

When I cycle the gun with no mag or ammo it never holds up or has any sticking points. This week at the range I was using a few bakelite mags and the bolt carrier group was getting stuck right when the bullet was going into the chamber. The rds were not feeding peoperly up into the chamber. It was as if the round was not tilting up into the chamber but being pushed straight into the lower part of the barrel/chamber. Also I had 3 or 4 rounds that would not go off. The primer had a dimple but it wouldn't set off the round. Id put it back in the gun and on the 2nd time they'd go off. Why is that? How to fix?

When I would cycle the gun by hand and force it it forward it would not have a problem chambering the rounds, but when it would cycle after a round was fired sometimes it would get caught up as I described above. I am curious if this has anything to do with the auto sear trip cut or something getting caught there. I dont believe it is that is the case bc it NEVER gets stuck there when I would run the bolt with no mag/ammo. When I do that it runs smooth as silk.

Last time I shot it I used and different mag, still a bakelite, and even used brass cased soft point ammo, which is much shorter than the FMJ and is notorious for jamming, but never had one jam on me even once.

Has this happened to anyone else? Or is this just a problem with those particular bakelite mags?

BTW I was using just plan old FMJ Tula.

Any help would be appreciated.  Do I need to polish something or just toss the mags and stick to steel?
Link Posted: 2/13/2016 3:23:52 AM EDT
[#1]
My gun did this when the bullet guide rivet loosened up.

It wasn't real loose, just enough to mess up the path of the bullet tip.

Then each bullet that hit the guide made the tilt worse.

Your problem could also be a magazine issue.
Link Posted: 2/13/2016 8:19:02 AM EDT
[#2]
If the problem only crops up with that particular set of magazines, then it's the magazines- don't use them or try to fix them.

I would also ask how much usage your recoil spring has had.  Our host here, TonyK, changes out the springs in his M16 every 5,000 rounds and I think that is an excellent form of "cheap insurance" to protect the guns and insure reliable functioning.  Sounds like yours might be getting a bit tired.
Link Posted: 2/13/2016 9:21:02 AM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
If the problem only crops up with that particular set of magazines, then it's the magazines- don't use them or try to fix them.

I would also ask how much usage your recoil spring has had.  Our host here, TonyK, changes out the springs in his M16 every 5,000 rounds and I think that is an excellent form of "cheap insurance" to protect the guns and insure reliable functioning.  Sounds like yours might be getting a bit tired.
View Quote



I was also going to suggest to change out the recoil spring
I guess I'm learning from the best!
Link Posted: 2/13/2016 11:54:14 AM EDT
[#4]
Great minds always think alike!

I was laying in bed last night I thought this is a damn old gun and Ive nwvwe changwd the recoil spring.

Will putting an extra strength recoil spring hurt the gun or do they even make those?
Or should I should just stick with a regular Chinese AK recoil spring?

Thanks guys!!!
Link Posted: 2/13/2016 1:44:16 PM EDT
[#5]
IMO I'd look for a NOS original recoil spring.  Your gun is pretty much irreplaceable, especially if you still have all of the original parts in it.  I wouldn't mess around with anything not specifically made for a type 56.  Hopefully this is the answer.  If not, I would next try different mags.

Actually, what is the length of your recoil spring?
Link Posted: 2/14/2016 8:28:55 AM EDT
[#6]
Wolff has both regular and extra-power springs available for $16 each.  Considering the value of the rifle you are shooting, i think it would be a very small investment to get one of each and try the extra-power one first.  If your gun has a lot of rounds through it, it's well-broken in and nice and slick inside so the bolt will be coming to the rear with maximum velocity.  If the extra-power spring causes problems, switch to the regular one, but I'm betting it won't.

IMHO, you are better off going with a new, commercially-made product rather than some "NOS" spring with no documentation.  God only knows where some spring that is supposedly genuine Chinese GI came from and what it has gone through before it gets to you.
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