Greetings--

My Qualified sear pack has finally transferred to my dealer, now
just starting the wait on the Form 4.

So while I'm waiting on the transfer, wanted to pick up a few accessories &
spare parts for it; would appreciate confirmation/guidance, as appropriate, from
those in the know.   My main intent is to protect the investment I've made in
this pack, operating under the assumption that MG parts in general may be
harder to get in the future, than now.

- "Retimed" Hammer -- here's one listed on HK parts; any other options/suggestions?
http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/Registered-Sear-Pack-Retimed-Hammer-p153.htm

- Ejector levers
9 mm -  http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/9mm-Ejector-Lever-For-MP5-94-MP5K-SP89-88p58.htm
HK 93 - http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/HK-93-33-53-Factory-Correct-Ejector-Lever-8p191.htm
.308 - http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/HK-308-Ejector-Lever-9p832.htm
HK 21/23 - http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/HK21E-23E-Factory-Ejector-Lever-11p1234.htm

- Other suggested high-wear / high breakage parts?

As always, input greatly appreciated!

SD

Since I don't see a burst mech, you've got yourself an SEF pack, so no worries about spares for the burst mechanism.

A complete springs kit would be some more cheap insurance.  Heck, just get another complete semi pack or semi pack rebuild kit as a spare.

I got a re-timed hammer direct from Mike Otte at Michael's Machines. I think he makes them for Adam.

Here's his contact info:  "Mike Otte" <[email protected]>

Nice man, I would just buy some good hosts to use it in. I haven't seen a HK trigger pack wear out anything yet. I wouldn't even bother getting extra ejectors as you can just use the ejectors from the semi trigger packs in the hosts you use.

OK, sure... or even better, how about this--

http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/MP5-MP5K-9mm-Ambidextrous-0-1-Trigger-Pack-88p17230.htm

...just purchase a semi-auto "ambi" pack, and move my registered sear,
hammer, and disconnector to it if I want a different style.
(*I believe the ambi FA selector is slightly different than the
ambi semi-auto selector, but is readily available, e.g., HERE)

Another question for the old hands... any real problem with using a standard FA hammer
vs. a retimed hammer?  I understand the rate of fire may increase, but are there any safety
or reliability issues?

Thanks.

While it may be true that you seldom break any trigger pack parts you'll lose or drop an ejector spring or pivot pin during a swap at the range, I carry spares for both.
The ambi packs are a pain but others may have a need for them. I do have both the metal and poly grip housings on various hosts so I carry the correct selectors for both also.
Congrats on moving one step closer to your goal and lots of fun.

1. Get a hammer from Mike.

2. You can't just move the sear and some parts into a burger pack. Send the pack to Mike and he will set it up for you.

You've got a registered pack, it looks like, not a registered sear - given that the serial number and mfr engraving are on your trigger box and not on the sear itself.

That means you can't move the sear to a new trigger box.

If you're adventurous you could have an expert HK wrencher modify your existing box to fit an ambi burst mechanism, though.

Actually, I don't know if there's a serial # on the sear itself, and I'm not presently in a position to
disassemble and check it.  I had supposed that the serial numbering on the trigger box
(in more than one place, BTW) was just for convenience, in case someone wanted
you to show the serial number w/o disassembly.  I can tell you that the ATF paperwork
says "Machine Gun Sear".

Did Qualified Mfg even make boxes?  Maybe someone can say (I don't really know).

Congratulations! As I'm sure you're aware you have one of the best sears you can buy. I would buy the following:

- a few retimed hammers
- all the hosts you want
- extractor springs (10) and extractors (2-3) for each host
- hammer springs (2-3) for each host
- mags, mags, and more mags for each host

My numbered Flemming sear is in a pack with the same serial number on it, the form 4 says "machinegun sear". The pack number is there to facilitate identifying the number on the sear, not as a registered part. If you look at the sear from the front of the pack, you'd see some faint electro penciled letters or numbers. Either the manufacturer or the serial number.

This sear pack is cut like any sear pack, and if the form 4 says "sear", the registered part is the sear.

It looks to be a registered friction sear in an unregistered trigger box with a clearance ledge cut into it. The trigger box does not appear to be registered. As far as I know, Qualified not make registered trigger boxes, they only made friction sears.




If you flip the trigger pack around to the other side, you will be able to see the Qualfied sear. It will be a bright silvery colored piece of metal, compared to the dark metal of the internals or box.

If it is a registered full auto trigger box with a ledge that was cut into it, those types of boxes use all factory internals (versus the registered semi auto box that uses an unregistered friction sear, which does not use factory internals). In the case of the registered full auto box, you can see the factory roller sear in it.

If you're confused about the difference, read this...









The skeptic in me thinks that certain dealers like to etch the friction sears' serial number on the unregistered trigger box to confuse buyers into thinking that the item is a registered trigger box. Those boxes nowadays are worth around $1,000 - $5000 more than a friction sear. One or two extra bids from confused bidders can be worth hundreds or thousands more.

If this is your first HKsear, know that when the form 4 is approved, you or your transferring dealer will need to take apart the trigger pack and examine the sear and make sure to examine the serial number that is on the sear. That serial number on the trigger box isn't official, it's only there for convenience.
 

All three of my HK Sears (both Fleming and Qualified) have the Manufacturer and Sear serial number engraved on the outside of the trigger box very similar to the one in the OPs picture.

I know they are registered sears as I was the one who engraved he Sear Serial Number on the outside of my triggerbox with my personal rotary pantograph engraver.

If you are swapping around packs it makes it much easier to know which sear is in which host.  Many ranges in my neck of the woods also want to check serial numbers against paperwork and it much easier to pull the trigger group off, pop the trigger pack out and show them the engraving on the side of the triggerbox vs. trying to show them lightly electropenciled engraving deep in the pack with a flashlight.

The only difference on my engraving is that I put the word "Sear"  on mine.  i.e. "Qualified Mfg Sear #KXXX" or "Fleming Mfg. Sear #HXXXX" so there was no confusion about what was registered.

I have never seen a registered Qualified triggerbox and the serial # matches the format of every Qualified HK Sear I have ever seen.

As to what spare parts I would recommend.   I would get extra, release levers, ejectors, ejector springs, and ejector pivot pins.   As other have mentions the ejector spring and pivot pin can easily be lost during an ejector swap in the field.  The release levers are the only other part that really takes any wear as it is struck by the bolt carrier with each cycle.

The only other part I have heard of breaking are hammers, especially if they have been "retimed" via a welding operation and/or you run a host with the incorrect locking piece leading faster bolt carrier speed.

I bought my first Sear based pack over a decade ago and have never broken a single part so overall the design is pretty robust.

It appears to be a standard semiauto trigger box that has been mod'd to accept the sear. Notice the location of the automatic sear axis pin in the photo of the unmodified fullauto trigger box below. Different than the OP's trigger box.

Josh, you're right. I didn't look close enough.

I agree, it's a semi auto box with a registered friction sear.

Thanks for all the feedback/input so far.  I'll just add a few other specific
questions--

#1.  Do the hammer springs really matter that much between 9 mm / .223 / .308?
I've seen one source (HK Parts) suggest that using a 9 mm hammer spring with
.308 might cause light primer strikes, but I'd like to know for sure.

#2.  Been focused mainly, so far, on the trigger group; what about the
FA bolt carrier?  Any wear concerns there?

#3.  Any thoughts on using a Vector V93 (LINK) as a cheap, relatively, host
for .223?

Thanks!

My Fleming is the same as the OP.

Information is posted on the same setup.


But mines was engraved with an engraving pencil rather poorly.

I have never broken a hammer but I suppose a spare would be comforting.

#1 - I've run a rifle spring for years in everything.
#2 - Spare rollers, roller retainers and the retainer roll pin. You may need several different style retainers depending on the host.
#3 - In my experience Vector guns can be hit or miss. I wouldn't buy one without the ability to inspect & test fire it first. That said I finally, on the third try, found a decent V53 SBR.

#2 I don't think you'll wear out or break a carrier short of a kaboom...

You'll likely be looking for a new host before a new carrier.

1. Most people have good luck using a rifle hammer spring in their pack with all the hosts..  This worked for me in most of my hosts, except for 1 of my 9mm hosts.  With the rifle cal spring, it would cause cycling issues and FTEjects, so I keep a pistol caliber spring handy for swaps at the range.

3.  Ive had 2 vectors and they were/are the only 2 guns that I never seemed to fully debug...  My coharies, SW's and PTR's all ran 100% or 100% after simple fixes (usually springs).

I recently picked up a DAG bolt so I can shoot the cheap blue training .308 ammo, and I also picked up a G-3 .22lr kit.  I'd strongly suggest getting both as I really enjoy both !!

Start getting a variety of hosts

Hosts I have:
Coharie MP5 SBR- shoots great
Coharie MP5k Factory SBR- shoots great
PTR91PDW- lost of muzzle blast, love it
PTR91 GI-  I mainly purchased this to shoot the Blue DAG training ammo and to shoot .22lr with the G-3 .22lr kit.
PTR32PDW- Probably my favorite until the DAB and .22kit arrived
V53- Still gives FTE problems in FA, rarely leaves the safe.

Hosts I had:
DJF Reverse stretch- Great gun.  Sold it to fund some some of the above hosts as at one point, I had 5x 9mm hosts and only 1 rifle host.
SW94k- MP5k with attached shroud to make it 16".  Muzzle heavy but great for FA and letting newbies shoot FA from a k..  sold to fund rifle hosts..
V94k/MP5k factory SBR-     Never could fully debug the gun in FA, shot fine in semi.  Sold to fund rifle hosts.

future hosts:
G3k
??

things to think abt:  will you ever shoot semi at the range in your hosts?  If not, do as I do and remove the trigger pack from each host, remove the ejector and hammer spring (if needed) from the host trigger pack, put the ejector (and hammer spring) in a ziplock baggie and tuck them into the the empty host trigger housing, still attached to the host gun.  Leave the host trigger packs at home.  when you are ready to use that host, swap the ejectors and you are ready to shoot.  Before I started doing this, I had partially assembled host trigger packs, all over the shooting table and its no hard to get them mixed up and its unnecessary.  On some of mine, the housings were SF, so I purchased a C/P SEF housing to use with the host gun and leave the orig trigger pack AND orig trigger housing at home..  That way, they all have SEF housings to use.  If you get lucky, one SEF housing might fit multiple guns, but when dealing with different manufactures/tolerences, I chose to get a SEF for each host.
   
Be aware of each gun and configuration.  I have sbr hosts, rifle hosts and 1 pistol host.  When the sear is in the pistol host, the pistol host can have a stock and Vert grip.  If the sear is not in the gun, NO stock or vert grip on the forend, etc.  

Partial family pic:  you can see the empty trigger housings and the ziplock baggie sticking out of the V53 housing:

Scott--

Thanks for your response; and, if I may say-- most impressive collection of hosts you have there!

The feedback I'm getting on the Vector V93 isn't so good, but Atlantic does have the PTR 32 available--



Anyway, lots and lots of options, I guess I understand now why an HK sear pack is so much
$$$'s!

SD

Hosts are fun:




And some of those I don't own anymore:

Brought home my sear today (mailed 7/17/15, ATF approval 11/20/2015)...



...that's one expensive little piece of metal!!

Congrats!  I still remember the feeling the day I picked mine up.  Who you gonna get to install it in a pack?  You going SEF or burst?

Fortunately, when I bought it, it was already installed in an SEF pack; after some previous advice
in this thread, just pulled it out to verify the serial # on the sear.  Right now installed in an MP-5 clone--
definitely a smooth shooting gun, I can see now why people liked these subguns so much.

Have plans to get it set up in a burst pack going forward...

Unless it is for the aesthetics or you are left handed etc., a burst pack, IMHO is a waste of money.  My brother spent almost $1,000 on having a sear installed in a three round burst pack.  He said it was cool to start, but once he got used to shooting it (using the second section of your trigger finger instead of the pad, squeeze until you feel the trigger break, then let off just a little),  it is easy to get even a "K" gun to shoot singles.  He says, now the only time he uses the burst feature is when introducing a new shooter to full auto.  I simply start with 5 rounds in the mag.  Once the shooter can get more than one burst from five rounds, I put 10 rounds in the mag.  Once they show they can control the gun, they get full 30 rd mags.

With the second section of the trigger finger method, at the MI State match, using a 9mm "K", after shooting the stage clean (using singles only as there were no shoot targets above and to the right of most of the targets and the longest shot was close to 25 yards), before leaving the line, the Range Officer asked me to shoot a small burst.  He could see that the selector was in the auto position, but wanted to be sure the auto function was working properly because i didn't have a single burst during the stage.  If you want to spend that kind of money, your machinegun, your choice.  To me I'd rather spend the $1,000 on ammo or another host.  Congratulations on the transfer.  YMMV.

Scott