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Posted: 5/26/2014 1:44:38 PM EDT
[#1]
1. Control the bolt. Always.
Watch this video and pay close attention starting at 2:50 minutes. It's a perfect example of failing to control the bolt. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSbc1bv5ReE Of course he was distracted and not thinking with his big brain? |
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Posted: 5/26/2014 2:03:25 PM EDT
[#2]
See my post on the first page of this thread, about halfway down: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_22/213538_M11_owners__reliable_guns_.html
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Posted: 5/26/2014 4:29:04 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
In my on-going mission to preoccupy myself while waiting for my Form 4 to be approved, I have been doing a lot of research -- ranging from accessories to instruction. ... 3. Insert/leave loaded magazine in with bolt closed-- there seems to be some disagreement here. ... Does anyone else have any tips, or have a link to that thread? Thanks I am one of those who will wholeheartedly disagree with this "instruction", because it is unsafe. When you cock most open bolts, including MACs, if the bolt handle slips from your grasp just as it clears the top round in the magazine, the gun WILL fire a single round, without you even touching the trigger. If this happens without a loaded magazine, the bolt slams shut on an empty chamber; no harm, no foul (but bad form). There is always a "window" in the stroke of an open bolt's travel, where the bolt is ahead of the sear and behind the top round in the magazine; it is a necessary part of the design. If the bolt is moving forward while it's in that window, the weapon WILL fire. This is why you must ALWAYS cock an open bolt firearm BEFORE inserting the loaded magazine to avoid this type of negligent discharge. The Israelis negated the large part of the open bolt design issue by issuing the ratcheting top cover on the UZI SMG. The UZI's clever ratchet mechanism captures the bolt until the cocking stroke is complete. If the user releases the UZI's cocking handle too early for whatever reason, the bolt freezes at that point, until the handle is fully retracted and released. At that point the bolt is properly released from the ratchet onto the sear. This works well, but it is still a mechanical safety device which could potentially fail. As always, it is better to be safe than sorry. |
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Posted: 5/26/2014 9:35:43 PM EDT
[#4]
Guys,
Thanks so much for the input, advice, and direction. I hope to lean on you guys in the future as more questions arise. This is my first FA, although I've fired them in the past. I'm kinda excited about this one primarily because of two things: - I have had a strong interest in SMGs through history-- even though I realize they are not a "do all" firearm, and have largely lost their place in modern engagements due to the assault rifle doing the job (in many cases) better, and the usage of ballistic armor. There's just something about them that holds my attention even more so than LMGs and ARs. - The new offerings of accessories and parts that really allow the user to tune the SMG to their specifications and vision. It seems that a MAC is up in the top SMGs that can be configured as you want it-- and definitely still cheaper than the other others. |
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Posted: 5/27/2014 12:21:57 AM EDT
[#5]
OP,
You can relax knowing that you made a great decision; Mac's are awesome guns. I love mine. The main thing that has stuck with me, and you already seem to have down, is to control the bolt. Another is to not use weak ammo as your subgun can "run away". Obligatory picture: 
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Posted: 5/27/2014 5:21:32 AM EDT
[#6]
Another +1 for controlling the bolt. When I brought mine home (M10/45) I was still learning the ins and outs of this thing and it was my first open bolt firearm to handle. I put the magazine in prior to cocking it back and my finger slipped off of the cocking knob and *BOOM* cranked one off into the ground. I only put one bullet in the magazine and it was on semi for the "just in case". From there, once I got it to quit being a jam-o-matic (short ejector rod) I just did bursts until I was comfortable riding out a thirty round magazine.
Mine didn't come with a strap, but I've acquired a few and made my own and will use it on occasion. Slip your hand THROUGH the strap and hold on to the front and underside of the trigger guard (in a similar fashion to shooting a pistol) if you choose to use one. I prefer the barrel extension myself while I wait on my Gemtech Viper. My MAC still has the wire stock (waiting now for the Max-10/45 mk2) and I plan on getting a new stock for it as well when the new upper is ready. When firing the gun slightly pivots where my stock connects, and I'm pretty sure it's responsible for a chipped canine tooth of mine. 
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Posted: 5/27/2014 10:13:33 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Another +1 for controlling the bolt. When I brought mine home (M10/45) I was still learning the ins and outs of this thing and it was my first open bolt firearm to handle. I put the magazine in prior to cocking it back and my finger slipped off of the cocking knob and *BOOM* cranked one off into the ground. I only put one bullet in the magazine and it was on semi for the "just in case". From there, once I got it to quit being a jam-o-matic (short ejector rod) I just did bursts until I was comfortable riding out a thirty round magazine. Mine didn't come with a strap, but I've acquired a few and made my own and will use it on occasion. Slip your hand THROUGH the strap and hold on to the front and underside of the trigger guard (in a similar fashion to shooting a pistol) if you choose to use one. I prefer the barrel extension myself while I wait on my Gemtech Viper. My MAC still has the wire stock (waiting now for the Max-10/45 mk2) and I plan on getting a new stock for it as well when the new upper is ready. When firing the gun slightly pivots where my stock connects, and I'm pretty sure it's responsible for a chipped canine tooth of mine. Thanks for that warning. OK... weak ammo. Some of my reading indicates that you also do not want to use "Hot" -- +P+ or +P ammo in the firearm either. Something about possibly damaging it, and it wasn't designed for anything more than standard loads. Typically, does Tulammo, Wolf, Silver Bear, or Brown Bear fall into "weak ammo?" Right now, I can get Brown Bear for a pretty good price, and I considered getting some just for burning. Due to a government auction purchase, my group of friends (we pooled our resources) have around 70,000 once-fired brasses of 9mm, and we have tons of lead that we are casting. I was planning on most of my "recreational" shooting to come from that due to costs. Have any of you had good results firing cast lead ammunition with success? I imagine that I'll have to do a good bit more cleaning, and deal with a few more FTF's. |
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Posted: 5/27/2014 10:58:53 AM EDT
[#8]
I have had good luck running hard cast 9mm through my M-16 and my old Mini Uzi. My barrel leaded when I tried a Lee tumble lube mold, but after my 147gr Lyman mold came in it was smooth sailing.
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Posted: 5/27/2014 1:04:34 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK... weak ammo. Some of my reading indicates that you also do not want to use "Hot" -- +P+ or +P ammo in the firearm either. Something about possibly damaging it, and it wasn't designed for anything more than standard loads. Typically, does Tulammo, Wolf, Silver Bear, or Brown Bear fall into "weak ammo?" Right now, I can get Brown Bear for a pretty good price, and I considered getting some just for burning. Ulyanovsk and Brown Bear have been about all I feed my M10s, Uzis, M16/9s and MP5 and I've never had any issues or cycling problems in 100k+ rounds. Only brass ammo they occasionally get is subsonics. |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 8:44:47 PM EDT
[#10]
Don't yank a load mag out unless the safety is engaged. Had it strip and fire a round into the dirt 10 feet in front of me once.
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Posted: 5/28/2014 8:45:25 PM EDT
[#11]
Check the buffer often to make sure it's still good.
Never load more than 3 rounds for new shooters. |
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Posted: 5/29/2014 12:43:55 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Hail Mary:
Check the buffer often to make sure it's still good. Never load more than 3 rounds for new shooters. Yup. Also, if yours is NIB, replace the buffer before first firing it. On every NIB Mac I've seen, the original buffer has deteriorated to the point where it shatters on the first shot. The OEM buffers weren't designed to last 25-30 years.... |
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Posted: 5/29/2014 1:30:32 PM EDT
[#13]
Retract bolt, engage safety then insert loaded mag, now weapon is ready. This is right out of the Ingram manual.
Use both hands. It likes to run. I prefer to use with barrel extension or suppressor Standard sights are just a guide. Standard folding stock works just fine.  |
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Posted: 5/30/2014 1:00:44 AM EDT
[#14]
Some good advice in this thread. Nice Macs guys.
Mine. 
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Posted: 5/30/2014 1:04:05 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted: In my on-going mission to preoccupy myself while waiting for my Form 4 to be approved, I have been doing a lot of research -- ranging from accessories to instruction. I ran across a tread in UziTalk regarding proper handling of a OEM MAC a few days ago, but can't find it anymore. Here is what I remember. 1. Control the bolt. Always. Always put the bolt back on the sear before clearing any malfunctions. 2. Do not insert magazine forcefully or there is a chance of a bent ejector rod. 3. Insert/leave loaded magazine in with bolt closed-- there seems to be some disagreement here. The gun can discharge if there is a loaded mag in the gun even if the bolt is closed. This usually occurs when the gun is dropped or even if you jump down from a minor height like the bed of a deuce. The bolt will have enough inertia that it will come back and strip a round and chamber it and fire but did not make it back far enough to catch the sear. Never load the gun until you are on the line and are ready to fire. When you do this have the bolt locked onto the sear since it is safer than being closed incase you fumble the gun. All open bolt SMGs should be done this way unless they have a specific safety mechanism like the Madsen M50. 4. Always keep a good check on the internals to check for sear wear-- to prevent a runaway. The front pivot pin on many early guns has a nasty habit of walking out while shooting. Some one, can't remember who, use to make replacement heavy duty sears for MACs. Might want to start looking for one. Buy lots of magazines, test them all and when one fails mark it. If it fails again weed it and sell it and replace it. 5. Front strap is practically useless, and could be dangerous. Get a barrel extension. Seen 2 people taken to the hospital from MACs shooting their support hand by getting it in front of the muzzle. Many do but using the suppressor as a forward hand hold can be dangerous since the MAC has shit mounting threads on it and the can can get loose and have a round come out the side of the can very easily (seen this once but the guy was lucky in that it missed is hand). Be careful about even the barrel extensions since I have seen 2 of them fail at the welds in the rear. Best idea is buy Lage upper ASAP. 6. OEM wire stock has potential to collapse under full auto fire. Does anyone else have any tips, or have a link to that thread? Thanks My uncle has a philosophy that every time he buys a machine gun he buys at a minimum of 10K rounds in ammo for it. This has meant that he has plenty of ammo to keep shooting through lean times. He replaces what he shoots up when the ammo gets cheap. It also means when surplus dries up, for those guns that are not common US ammo, he still has plenty. |
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Posted: 6/1/2014 9:59:02 PM EDT
[#16]
Us machinegun or FTC industries will have all the spare parts you will need.
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Posted: 6/2/2014 3:12:33 AM EDT
[#17]
Thank you all for the input and tips. Believe me, I've taken note.
Please feel free to share any other tidbits of expertise and wisdom with my thanks. |
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Posted: 6/3/2014 1:08:42 AM EDT
[#18]
OK... new question.
I know that Robert has new RPB 32 round magazines for the M10/9mm for around $50 each. However, I have planned on converting Suomi 36 round magazines that I can get for $12.95. I have the tools, someone who can both tig weld the magazine stops and Cerekote the finished magazines. Lately, however, I found a source for 32 round uzi magazines for $15 a piece. Considering my M10 is a RPB/PS double stamp 9mm only, would you consider doing the Practical Solutions Uzi magwell conversion -- considering how plentiful and likely continually available they will be in the future? If it matters, I am planning on putting a Lage upper on the gun, and am toying with the idea of eventually getting a Sabre upper -- which would require the backplate to be drilled. I guess what I am getting at is that I am torn between keeping the gun original verses modifications that will make it more usable or adaptable. Thoughts? |
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Posted: 6/3/2014 11:22:41 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Considering my M10 is a RPB/PS double stamp 9mm only, would you consider doing the Practical Solutions Uzi magwell conversion -- considering how plentiful and likely continually available they will be in the future? Hard to go wrong going with Uzi mags - they're extremely plentiful, battle-tested, reliable and inexpensive. And you can get a LULA loader for them, too. With RPB mags going for so much, you'll more than offset the cost of the conversion selling off your now-obsolete RPB magazines. |
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Posted: 6/3/2014 12:05:50 PM EDT
[#20]
Don't depend on that strap.
Always shoot it with a barrel extension, fake can or real can. |
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Posted: 6/3/2014 12:28:21 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I guess what I am getting at is that I am torn between keeping the gun original verses modifications that will make it more usable or adaptable. Thoughts? Before making any frame or magwell modifications, I would discuss them with Richard Lage (who is a very helpful, knowledgeable guy). Some of his production uppers and conversions will only with with some magwells, and in addition, he has future projects which may or may not work with modified host guns. One of the great aspects of Mac ownership is that it has gone from a one-trick pony to an entire full-auto platform. Be very, very cautious about making any changes that will prevent you from making use of that entire platform. HTH. YMMV. |
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Posted: 6/3/2014 2:43:57 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Before making any frame or magwell modifications, I would discuss them with Richard Lage (who is a very helpful, knowledgeable guy). Some of his production uppers and conversions will only with with some magwells, and in addition, he has future projects which may or may not work with modified host guns. One of the great aspects of Mac ownership is that it has gone from a one-trick pony to an entire full-auto platform. Be very, very cautious about making any changes that will prevent you from making use of that entire platform. HTH. YMMV. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I guess what I am getting at is that I am torn between keeping the gun original verses modifications that will make it more usable or adaptable. Thoughts? Before making any frame or magwell modifications, I would discuss them with Richard Lage (who is a very helpful, knowledgeable guy). Some of his production uppers and conversions will only with with some magwells, and in addition, he has future projects which may or may not work with modified host guns. One of the great aspects of Mac ownership is that it has gone from a one-trick pony to an entire full-auto platform. Be very, very cautious about making any changes that will prevent you from making use of that entire platform. HTH. YMMV. I sent my gun to Sam @PS for the Uzi conversion I feel it is the right way to go. I did have to send him the Lage upper to mill some of the bolt to work with the new set up. It has run great ever since. You can get for like $250-300 shipped for a box of 50. So nut up buy them. and refinsh the bad ones. The cool thing about an Uzi mag is it WILL work. Rust or not
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Posted: 6/3/2014 7:46:10 PM EDT
[#23]
I'm not the OP but I have been following this thread very closely.
Mike |
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Posted: 6/5/2014 3:09:46 AM EDT
[#24]
Thanks again for all of the information.
OK... I have a new question-- one that I suspect has never been asked before on here. I read on Sam's page at Practical Solutions that a NFA item does not need to have a Form 5 to ship it to a shop for repair work, and that the Uzi grip conversion would fall under "repairs." The question is this: Is it theoretically possible to have a NFA item shipped from your dealer to a shop for work WHILE it is still "in jail" waiting for Form 4 approval? I don't know how long Sam is taking on having work done, but I thought I could kill two birds with one stone if I had my dealer ship it to Sam to do the conversion (if I decide to do it) and have Sam ship it back to him upon completion. |
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Posted: 6/5/2014 6:54:32 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks again for all of the information. OK... I have a new question-- one that I suspect has never been asked before on here. I read on Sam's page at Practical Solutions that a NFA item does not need to have a Form 5 to ship it to a shop for repair work, and that the Uzi grip conversion would fall under "repairs." The question is this: Is it theoretically possible to have a NFA item shipped from your dealer to a shop for work WHILE it is still "in jail" waiting for Form 4 approval? I don't know how long Sam is taking on having work done, but I thought I could kill two birds with one stone if I had my dealer ship it to Sam to do the conversion (if I decide to do it) and have Sam ship it back to him upon completion. |
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Posted: 6/6/2014 1:51:39 PM EDT
[#26]
I should have my m11a1 in 2-4 weeks based on NFATracker.com trends! I got my Mk2 version of the Lage M31A last week and I've cleaned up and tuned up 3 Suomi drums in anticipation.
I found this hickok45 video this morning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRP_6JPh98k I did not know that you could rotate the cocking lever 90 degrees to lock the bolt closed as another type of safety. Mike |
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Posted: 6/6/2014 3:01:26 PM EDT
[#27]
Yep, requires the OEM SMG cocking knob, though. Most aftermarkets and semis are just round - they'll rotate, but they won't lock.
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Posted: 6/6/2014 3:29:37 PM EDT
[#28]
Good to know. I'm sure I will keep the Lage on it most of the time and just use it in buzz gun mode on occasion for novelty :)
Mike |
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Posted: 6/6/2014 4:11:07 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yep, requires the OEM SMG cocking knob, though. Most aftermarkets and semis are just round - they'll rotate, but they won't lock. Just be aware that, to allow it to rotate, the OEM knob is slotted, and that weakens the knob. I have a permanent dent in my forehead, right at the hairline, where the OEM cocking knob on my M11/9mm conked me after it broke off during a magdump. 
I won't shoot M11's with the OEM knob ever again. I know that with my luck, I'll be the guy who got hit twice. Of course, pretty much everything broke on my NIB-purchased M11/9mm, so I finally accepted the apparent edict of The God of Machine Guns that tony_k shall never own an M11. I just sold the cursed thing and stuck to my Energizer Bunny Uzi. Of course, by the time I sold it I had replaced almost everything except the M11's receiver, and the new owner has had zero problems over the years since then. Go figure.
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Posted: 6/8/2014 9:47:41 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just be aware that, to allow it to rotate, the OEM knob is slotted, and that weakens the knob. I have a permanent dent in my forehead, right at the hairline, where the OEM cocking knob on my M11/9mm conked me after it broke off during a magdump. Of course, the cocking knob could have just as easily broken off when the bolt was going FORWARD, thus chucking the fragged piece AWAY from your head instead. It was literally a 50/50 chance... I know, it never works that way for me either.  
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Posted: 6/8/2014 10:36:37 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Of course, the cocking knob could have just as easily broken off when the bolt was going FORWARD, thus chucking the fragged piece AWAY from your head instead. It was literally a 50/50 chance... I know, it never works that way for me either. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just be aware that, to allow it to rotate, the OEM knob is slotted, and that weakens the knob. I have a permanent dent in my forehead, right at the hairline, where the OEM cocking knob on my M11/9mm conked me after it broke off during a magdump. Of course, the cocking knob could have just as easily broken off when the bolt was going FORWARD, thus chucking the fragged piece AWAY from your head instead. It was literally a 50/50 chance... I know, it never works that way for me either.
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Posted: 6/9/2014 1:50:13 AM EDT
[#32]
I am loving the discussion on this thread. I appreciate it guys.
Next odd-ball question. I've read from an old response on Uzitalk from "Ed" regarding magazine pouches that.... A 2 Magazine M4 30-round magazine pouch will hold 4 25-round Uzi Magazines A 2 Magazine AK 30-round magazine pouch will hold 4 32-round Uzi Magazines. Does anyone have any pictures of the above and how well it works? I've been looking for options for magazine pouches, and am leaning toward doing the Uzi conversion on my M10/9mm. All of the Molle compatible SMG pouches typically hold 3 magazines, and seem to take up a LOT or real-estate on a FLC, Vest, or Plate carrier for very little quantity. I've got carriers set up for my AR, my .308 AR, and now I was going to start setting up one for the M10/9mm. I'm not running competition. This is just a prepping/hobby/why-not endeavor. Thanks again. |
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Posted: 7/15/2014 11:35:54 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
I ran across a tread in UziTalk regarding proper handling of a OEM MAC a few days ago, but can't find it anymore. Does anyone else have any tips, or have a link to that thread? Thanks I read it with interest as I'm a relative new owner of a M11-9. Yes, controlling the bolt is very important. I only load a mag when I'm ready to shoot and never leave the mag in the gun when I'm not shooting. |
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Posted: 7/25/2014 1:31:01 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just be aware that, to allow it to rotate, the OEM knob is slotted, and that weakens the knob. I have a permanent dent in my forehead, right at the hairline, where the OEM cocking knob on my M11/9mm conked me after it broke off during a magdump.
I won't shoot M11's with the OEM knob ever again. I know that with my luck, I'll be the guy who got hit twice. Of course, pretty much everything broke on my NIB-purchased M11/9mm, so I finally accepted the apparent edict of The God of Machine Guns that tony_k shall never own an M11. I just sold the cursed thing and stuck to my Energizer Bunny Uzi. Of course, by the time I sold it I had replaced almost everything except the M11's receiver, and the new owner has had zero problems over the years since then. Go figure. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yep, requires the OEM SMG cocking knob, though. Most aftermarkets and semis are just round - they'll rotate, but they won't lock. Just be aware that, to allow it to rotate, the OEM knob is slotted, and that weakens the knob. I have a permanent dent in my forehead, right at the hairline, where the OEM cocking knob on my M11/9mm conked me after it broke off during a magdump.
I won't shoot M11's with the OEM knob ever again. I know that with my luck, I'll be the guy who got hit twice. Of course, pretty much everything broke on my NIB-purchased M11/9mm, so I finally accepted the apparent edict of The God of Machine Guns that tony_k shall never own an M11. I just sold the cursed thing and stuck to my Energizer Bunny Uzi. Of course, by the time I sold it I had replaced almost everything except the M11's receiver, and the new owner has had zero problems over the years since then. Go figure. 1986 production gun? I had near all the M11 issues on mine, it was also a 1986 gun. Had a chance to buy a NIB M11 for $3500 right before prices went crazy, but passed because it was a late production 1986 gun. |
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Posted: 7/25/2014 2:12:52 PM EDT
[#35]
Yup. Mine was one of the last M11/9's before the ban. They definitely were stressing quantity over quality at the time.
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Posted: 7/28/2014 8:36:15 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yup. Mine was one of the last M11/9's before the ban. They definitely were stressing quantity over quality at the time. My May 86 is unusually perfect. By that I mean it fires flawlessly. It will be better with Robar NP3+ once I actually possess it..... |
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Posted: 8/1/2014 11:32:26 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My May 86 is unusually perfect. By that I mean it fires flawlessly. Same here. My only changes so far are a new buffer and some metal Shockwave Technologies mags. Those mags run 100% every time. |
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Posted: 8/1/2014 12:03:45 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Same here. My only changes so far are a new buffer and some metal Shockwave Technologies mags. Those mags run 100% every time. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My May 86 is unusually perfect. By that I mean it fires flawlessly. Same here. My only changes so far are a new buffer and some metal Shockwave Technologies mags. Those mags run 100% every time. Same here as well, guess we all got lucky. |
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Posted: 8/3/2014 3:58:03 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Same here as well, guess we all got lucky. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My May 86 is unusually perfect. By that I mean it fires flawlessly. Same here. My only changes so far are a new buffer and some metal Shockwave Technologies mags. Those mags run 100% every time. Same here as well, guess we all got lucky. Yep, my Z-Mags are drop free and the feed angle is so good that I can shoot hollow points with 100% success. I think my sear may be wearing a bit though, so I need to spend a whopping $50 to fix that! |
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Posted: 8/11/2014 6:07:17 PM EDT
[#40]
Someone already discussed this a little but be sure not to charge your bolt with the safety engaged. This action will result in your bolt becoming stuck and can only be relieved by separating upper from lower. These guns are very fun if treated with the respect they deserve.
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Posted: 8/12/2014 3:38:40 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think my sear may be wearing a bit though, so I need to spend a whopping $50 to fix that! ...and if you spend that $50 on a Lage sear it'll last you the rest of your life. Love my M11/9s they're so easy and cheap to maintain. 
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Posted: 8/18/2014 11:52:53 PM EDT
[#42]
I just bought an M10 9mm....now the long stamp wait begins :-(
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Posted: 8/19/2014 2:28:34 PM EDT
[#43]
Closed bolt gun safety is instinct for me to the point that I was concerned that this might be a liability with open bolt.
I practice a 4 step drill out of it that eliminates the biggest danger (slipping ff the charging handle when cocking): 1. Remove empty mag/drum 2. Cock Slide* 3. Safety On* 4. Insert new mag/drum *-If your safety does not prevent cocking you can reverse these. A safety that prevents cocking can (if it does not break) prevent an open bolt gun dropped muzzle up from stripping and firing a round Mike |
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Posted: 8/22/2014 8:45:43 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Closed bolt gun safety is instinct for me to the point that I was concerned that this might be a liability with open bolt. I practice a 4 step drill out of it that eliminates the biggest danger (slipping ff the charging handle when cocking): 1. Remove empty mag/drum 2. Cock Slide* 3. Safety On* 4. Insert new mag/drum *-If your safety does not prevent cocking you can reverse these. A safety that prevents cocking can (if it does not break) prevent an open bolt gun dropped muzzle up from stripping and firing a round Mike That's a pretty good sequence, but it's ALWAYS "Control the Bolt" first when dealing with open-bolt firearms. When you "think" the open-bolt firearm is empty, the first thing to do is to lock the bolt open. There is at least one very good reason for doing it this way: If you have a failure to feed jam where the live round hangs up on the feed ramp, and it happens near the end of the magazine when you "think" the firearm is empty, removing the magazine might jar the stubbed round enough to send the bolt forward, firing a round! To begin firing: 1) Cock bolt open. 2) Apply safety, at your discretion 3) Insert loaded magazine, when ready to fire. 4) Disengage safety, fire away. To make safe after firing: 1) Cock bolt open. 2) Apply safety at your discretion 3) Remove empty (or otherwise) magazine. 4) Inspect chamber visually though ejection port to verify it is clear A note about the safety and "at your discretion": If you are at a Machine Gun Shoot and are firing hundreds of rounds of ammo, you probably are not going to apply the safety every single time you change a magazine up on the firing line. There are times when you should use the safety though, so use common sense. |
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