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Link Posted: 5/13/2014 11:30:54 PM EDT
[#1]
bump Any new info? when will grog open up for new members?
Link Posted: 5/14/2014 10:41:06 PM EDT
[#2]
I like the design.
Link Posted: 5/14/2014 10:46:37 PM EDT
[#3]
If you want to become a member there, I recommend e-mailing the owner your request, the user name you want to use, and the e-mail. You will use for the forum. Perhaps he will then sign you up as a member...  GROG

Oh, and the reason he closed membership is due to hundreds of spam members he has to take time to go through every week, and it takes up too much of his retirement time... as far as I  know...
Link Posted: 5/15/2014 6:00:01 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:
If you want to become a member there, I recommend e-mailing the owner your request, the user name you want to use, and the e-mail. You will use for the forum. Perhaps he will then sign you up as a member...  GROG

Oh, and the reason he closed membership is due to hundreds of spam members he has to take time to go through every week, and it takes up too much of his retirement time... as far as I  know...
View Quote



Link Posted: 5/20/2014 5:13:04 PM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:
If you want to become a member there, I recommend e-mailing the owner your request, the user name you want to use, and the e-mail. You will use for the forum. Perhaps he will then sign you up as a member...  GROG

Oh, and the reason he closed membership is due to hundreds of spam members he has to take time to go through every week, and it takes up too much of his retirement time... as far as I  know...
View Quote

thanks again
Link Posted: 9/5/2014 1:20:25 AM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:


That's the thing, my mini-mine designs aren't really that small.  The net explosive weight should be in the ~1lb area and up, and the diameter should be around 4.5 inches.  As far as mines go, that's pretty respectable.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I have several thoughts on usage for you "mini-mines", but I'll keep them to myself.
I'm sure if you reread the improvised weapons section of the soldiers handbook you got in basic (from the 80s) you'll find some ideas.
I'm not sure they cover this in these more enlightened, PC times.


That's the thing, my mini-mine designs aren't really that small.  The net explosive weight should be in the ~1lb area and up, and the diameter should be around 4.5 inches.  As far as mines go, that's pretty respectable.



Like this guy?


Link Posted: 9/5/2014 4:05:54 PM EDT
[#7]
Display case idea

Link Posted: 9/6/2014 11:17:48 PM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I have several thoughts on usage for you "mini-mines", but I'll keep them to myself.
I'm sure if you reread the improvised weapons section of the soldiers handbook you got in basic (from the 80s) you'll find some ideas.
I'm not sure they cover this in these more enlightened, PC times.


That's the thing, my mini-mine designs aren't really that small.  The net explosive weight should be in the ~1lb area and up, and the diameter should be around 4.5 inches.  As far as mines go, that's pretty respectable.



Like this guy?


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/cms81586/image_zps9f6ba80d.jpg


Actually, my idea revolves around a fully electrical firing train built inside a round electrical box.  Those electrical boxes are entirely waterproof, modular, and have numerous openings that can be drilled open.  I want to go with an electrical firing train just to make sure I can put in a self-neutralizing circuit that will drain the batteries down over the course of a week, month, year.  This would, of course, be selectable.  The wife said 'no', but I think I can make the project work.
Link Posted: 9/11/2014 4:00:14 PM EDT
[#9]
You used old Comp B, or something more with the times?
Link Posted: 9/11/2014 4:21:05 PM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:
You used old Comp B, or something more with the times?
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I went with good, old-fashioned, Ammonal
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 10:47:42 PM EDT
[#11]
Everyone, I was just informed that the XM-67A1 designation from my design is PRELOADED in the BATFE eForm1.  That means that the design papers don't have to be resubmitted and it isn't considered an 'experimental' design..  It also means that it is a fucking legit design.  I paper filed my form 1, and they included it in the eForm pages, that's really all I need to know about how concerned they are with my design getting out there.  So, frag grenades all around!

Life's more fun when you party with HE.
Link Posted: 9/14/2014 10:53:52 PM EDT
[#12]
So tempting
Link Posted: 9/15/2014 12:15:02 AM EDT
[#13]
This is great news Wingnut116ACW!



Thanks again for your pioneering effort!



So who's doing the first HE 40mm?

Link Posted: 9/15/2014 1:00:54 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
This is great news Wingnut116ACW!

Thanks again for your pioneering effort!

So who's doing the first HE 40mm?
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I don't know about 40mm, but I DO know a guy that's looking to build an HE 60mm round.  NOTE: DO NOT USE BINARY, SHOCK-SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVES IN PROJECTILES.  YOU WILL BLOW YOURSELF UP!

So, who wants a modular landmine system?
Link Posted: 9/15/2014 1:59:54 AM EDT
[#15]
Id rather have a claymore honestly…

Just read they are deadly to 50m and effective to 100m. Quite impressed.
Link Posted: 9/15/2014 4:15:12 AM EDT
[#16]
awesome thread. I live in LV, any chance I could be there when u pull the pin?
Link Posted: 9/15/2014 6:47:14 AM EDT
[#17]
sweeeet
Link Posted: 9/15/2014 4:36:58 PM EDT
[#18]


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Actually, my idea revolves around a fully electrical firing train built inside a round electrical box. Those electrical boxes are entirely waterproof, modular, and have numerous openings that can be drilled open. I want to go with an electrical firing train just to make sure I can put in a self-neutralizing circuit that will drain the batteries down over the course of a week, month, year. This would, of course, be selectable. The wife said 'no', but I think I can make the project work.
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Quoted:



Quoted:



Quoted:



Quoted:

I have several thoughts on usage for you "mini-mines", but I'll keep them to myself.

I'm sure if you reread the improvised weapons section of the soldiers handbook you got in basic (from the 80s) you'll find some ideas.

I'm not sure they cover this in these more enlightened, PC times.





That's the thing, my mini-mine designs aren't really that small. The net explosive weight should be in the ~1lb area and up, and the diameter should be around 4.5 inches. As far as mines go, that's pretty respectable.






Like this guy?





http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/cms81586/image_zps9f6ba80d.jpg




Actually, my idea revolves around a fully electrical firing train built inside a round electrical box. Those electrical boxes are entirely waterproof, modular, and have numerous openings that can be drilled open. I want to go with an electrical firing train just to make sure I can put in a self-neutralizing circuit that will drain the batteries down over the course of a week, month, year. This would, of course, be selectable. The wife said 'no', but I think I can make the project work.


Send me detailed plans and I'll pay the tax stamp and submit it via eForms.  Like your frag, I would document the build in detail.
Link Posted: 9/15/2014 4:39:21 PM EDT
[#19]


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Quoted:
I don't know about 40mm, but I DO know a guy that's looking to build an HE 60mm round. NOTE: DO NOT USE BINARY, SHOCK-SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVES IN PROJECTILES. YOU WILL BLOW YOURSELF UP!



So, who wants a modular landmine system?
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Quoted:



Quoted:

This is great news Wingnut116ACW!



Thanks again for your pioneering effort!



So who's doing the first HE 40mm?





I don't know about 40mm, but I DO know a guy that's looking to build an HE 60mm round. NOTE: DO NOT USE BINARY, SHOCK-SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVES IN PROJECTILES. YOU WILL BLOW YOURSELF UP!



So, who wants a modular landmine system?


I hear your friend is leaning towards old fashioned black powder, black powder substitute, or double base smokeless powder as a filler for his 60mm rounds.  He's still doing research though.
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 6:08:10 PM EDT
[#20]
So the storage and transport (taken apart) or use of this exact design doesn't require an explosives permit from the ATF? All it requires is the tax stamp?
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 6:26:12 PM EDT
[#21]
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Quoted:
So the storage and transport (taken apart) or use of this exact design doesn't require an explosives permit from the ATF? All it requires is the tax stamp?
View Quote


Behold, the beauty of binary.
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 6:37:33 PM EDT
[#22]
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Quoted:


Behold, the beauty of binary.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
So the storage and transport (taken apart) or use of this exact design doesn't require an explosives permit from the ATF? All it requires is the tax stamp?


Behold, the beauty of binary.

Genius.

I sent you an email as I am also interested in Form 1ing this. Thanks for all your hard work, Wingnut.
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 10:36:34 PM EDT
[#23]
Most excellent
Link Posted: 9/16/2014 10:48:54 PM EDT
[#24]
Legality behind using a solidified plx binary?
Link Posted: 9/17/2014 8:50:37 AM EDT
[#25]
A 'solidified' binary isn't binary.

Binary means the fuel and oxidizer are stored and shipped separately, generally eliminating legal issues and other complexities found in the 'orange book'...and PLX isn't solid, unless you know of some other PLX than I know of.
Link Posted: 9/22/2014 8:01:04 PM EDT
[#26]
FINAL VERSION



So, what do you all think?  Final finish is  spray-on plastidip.
Link Posted: 9/22/2014 8:46:19 PM EDT
[#27]
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Quoted:


Most definitely.  And let me assure you, this is far from gluing BBs to an M-80.  I actually did some filler tests today that went so well, I'm marking the filler question off my to-do list.  A pound of the binary filler I used was able to blow a sandbag in half, and I lost the metal stake the charge was attached to.  

When I can finally finish up this project, I'm going to go for land mines only because I CAN.
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 Hoo Boy.  I am not attacking this build.  Really.  I think its neat that somebody is doing this.  Its pushing the bounds, where others want to say blanket "NO" & "CAN'T DO THAT" - this is a "YES I CAN"

 Which is more akin to AMERICAN instead of the AmeriCAN'T folks that are out there.

Your tax stamp covers your DEVICE - not "glue some BBs to an M80" which I felt that GROG was referring to a completely different device - UNLESS you attach your device to it in some manner... ?



 'Attention to detail' - its good in this activity & endeavor.  



Most definitely.  And let me assure you, this is far from gluing BBs to an M-80.  I actually did some filler tests today that went so well, I'm marking the filler question off my to-do list.  A pound of the binary filler I used was able to blow a sandbag in half, and I lost the metal stake the charge was attached to.  

When I can finally finish up this project, I'm going to go for land mines only because I CAN.


OK wait, I could submit a 200 dollar check and a form 1 to make "an m80 with some BB's glued to it"
Link Posted: 9/22/2014 8:58:37 PM EDT
[#28]
Pardon me for not reading all 8 pages.  The spoon is painted "practice" colors and the body is typically OD with yellow writing.  Since this is a real device (and yours) you could paint any color you want.  Just wondering about the color selection.  I suppose someone that didn't know could mistake it for an inert device.

Cool though.  When are you going to throw it?

ETA read last couple pages, see where it's not a pull pin and throw type.
Link Posted: 9/22/2014 10:40:07 PM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Pardon me for not reading all 8 pages.  The spoon is painted "practice" colors and the body is typically OD with yellow writing.  Since this is a real device (and yours) you could paint any color you want.  Just wondering about the color selection.  I suppose someone that didn't know could mistake it for an inert device.

Cool though.  When are you going to throw it?

ETA read last couple pages, see where it's not a pull pin and throw type.
View Quote


The spoon, being a live fuze assembly, will likely remain that way until I can get another spoon stripped of paint, engraved, and then painted flat black or OD green, or tan, or whatever and then I will have to come up with a procedure to 'swap' spoons.  

In the mean time, there won't be any filler in the body.  And, if someone even has the opportunity to mistake it for an inert device, it has somehow opened up an X-09 lock and waddled out of my grenade safe.  I'm still looking at ideas for putting some lettering on the body with yellow paint.  

The final color may actually be desert tan.  And, my final body will have all air bubbles from casting filled in before the plastidip is applied.  BUT, that said, the design and build procedures are finalized now.
Link Posted: 9/22/2014 11:05:14 PM EDT
[#30]
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Quoted:


The spoon, being a live fuze assembly, will likely remain that way until I can get another spoon stripped of paint, engraved, and then painted flat black or OD green, or tan, or whatever and then I will have to come up with a procedure to 'swap' spoons.  

In the mean time, there won't be any filler in the body.  And, if someone even has the opportunity to mistake it for an inert device, it has somehow opened up an X-09 lock and waddled out of my grenade safe.  I'm still looking at ideas for putting some lettering on the body with yellow paint.  

The final color may actually be desert tan.  And, my final body will have all air bubbles from casting filled in before the plastidip is applied.  BUT, that said, the design and build procedures are finalized now.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Pardon me for not reading all 8 pages.  The spoon is painted "practice" colors and the body is typically OD with yellow writing.  Since this is a real device (and yours) you could paint any color you want.  Just wondering about the color selection.  I suppose someone that didn't know could mistake it for an inert device.

Cool though.  When are you going to throw it?

ETA read last couple pages, see where it's not a pull pin and throw type.


The spoon, being a live fuze assembly, will likely remain that way until I can get another spoon stripped of paint, engraved, and then painted flat black or OD green, or tan, or whatever and then I will have to come up with a procedure to 'swap' spoons.  

In the mean time, there won't be any filler in the body.  And, if someone even has the opportunity to mistake it for an inert device, it has somehow opened up an X-09 lock and waddled out of my grenade safe.  I'm still looking at ideas for putting some lettering on the body with yellow paint.  

The final color may actually be desert tan.  And, my final body will have all air bubbles from casting filled in before the plastidip is applied.  BUT, that said, the design and build procedures are finalized now.


Cool, looking forward to video.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 1:25:35 AM EDT
[#31]
The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 1:27:27 AM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable.
View Quote


Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers.

Actual Edit: I royally screwed up that edit by making it a quote. I suck.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 2:54:26 AM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:  The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable.

Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers.
View Quote


That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint.  I agree that it's a workable solution.  It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 4:58:30 AM EDT
[#34]


So did you end up sticking with the racquet ball core surrounded by the frag matrix? Or is it just the frag matrix covered in plastidip?





Looks great bro! I look forward too seeing OD ones.





Link Posted: 9/23/2014 2:46:23 PM EDT
[#35]
EPIC!
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 4:39:29 PM EDT
[#36]
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Quoted:


Cool, looking forward to video.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Pardon me for not reading all 8 pages.  The spoon is painted "practice" colors and the body is typically OD with yellow writing.  Since this is a real device (and yours) you could paint any color you want.  Just wondering about the color selection.  I suppose someone that didn't know could mistake it for an inert device.

Cool though.  When are you going to throw it?

ETA read last couple pages, see where it's not a pull pin and throw type.


The spoon, being a live fuze assembly, will likely remain that way until I can get another spoon stripped of paint, engraved, and then painted flat black or OD green, or tan, or whatever and then I will have to come up with a procedure to 'swap' spoons.  

In the mean time, there won't be any filler in the body.  And, if someone even has the opportunity to mistake it for an inert device, it has somehow opened up an X-09 lock and waddled out of my grenade safe.  I'm still looking at ideas for putting some lettering on the body with yellow paint.  

The final color may actually be desert tan.  And, my final body will have all air bubbles from casting filled in before the plastidip is applied.  BUT, that said, the design and build procedures are finalized now.


Cool, looking forward to video.

+1-most awesome.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 5:32:03 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint.  I agree that it's a workable solution.  It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:  The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable.

Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers.


That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint.  I agree that it's a workable solution.  It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it.


Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby.  If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 5:51:09 PM EDT
[#38]
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Quoted:


Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby.  If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:  The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable.

Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers.


That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint.  I agree that it's a workable solution.  It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it.


Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby.  If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area.



I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 5:53:33 PM EDT
[#39]
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Quoted:



I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:  The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable.

Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers.


That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint.  I agree that it's a workable solution.  It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it.


Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby.  If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area.



I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand.


Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance.  
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 6:11:40 PM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance.  
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:  The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable.

Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers.


That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint.  I agree that it's a workable solution.  It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it.


Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby.  If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area.



I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand.


Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance.  

Very good idea.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 8:15:50 PM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance.  
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:  The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable.

Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers.


That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint.  I agree that it's a workable solution.  It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it.


Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby.  If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area.



I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand.


Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance.  


Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"?  How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO?
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 8:48:33 PM EDT
[#42]
Run.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 10:55:25 PM EDT
[#43]
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Quoted:  Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"?  How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO?
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Bet the Fire Department Bomb Squad has never dealt w/ an unexploded homemade legally owned hand grenade before.  
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 11:04:28 PM EDT
[#44]
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Quoted:Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"?  How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO?
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Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover.
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 11:11:17 PM EDT
[#45]
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Quoted:


Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover.
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Quoted:
Quoted:Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"?  How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO?


Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover.


Or, you could walk up and kick it.  
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 11:30:26 PM EDT
[#46]
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Quoted:


Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover.
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Quoted:
Quoted:Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"?  How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO?


Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover.


In your garage?  
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 11:32:56 PM EDT
[#47]
Wingnut, you are my hero!
Link Posted: 9/23/2014 11:33:10 PM EDT
[#48]
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In your garage?  
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Quoted:Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"?  How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO?


Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover.


In your garage?  


Eh, if it is just a fuze, throw it on the Weber and hope for the best
Link Posted: 9/25/2014 1:58:37 AM EDT
[#49]
Not going to lie, I'd be a little scared of using a home made grenade.
Link Posted: 9/25/2014 5:40:29 AM EDT
[#50]
I'm sure he tested solely the fuze assembly, delay train, and detonator/burster countless times...





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