User Panel
If you want to become a member there, I recommend e-mailing the owner your request, the user name you want to use, and the e-mail. You will use for the forum. Perhaps he will then sign you up as a member... GROG
Oh, and the reason he closed membership is due to hundreds of spam members he has to take time to go through every week, and it takes up too much of his retirement time... as far as I know... |
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If you want to become a member there, I recommend e-mailing the owner your request, the user name you want to use, and the e-mail. You will use for the forum. Perhaps he will then sign you up as a member... GROG Oh, and the reason he closed membership is due to hundreds of spam members he has to take time to go through every week, and it takes up too much of his retirement time... as far as I know... View Quote |
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If you want to become a member there, I recommend e-mailing the owner your request, the user name you want to use, and the e-mail. You will use for the forum. Perhaps he will then sign you up as a member... GROG Oh, and the reason he closed membership is due to hundreds of spam members he has to take time to go through every week, and it takes up too much of his retirement time... as far as I know... View Quote thanks again |
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I have several thoughts on usage for you "mini-mines", but I'll keep them to myself. I'm sure if you reread the improvised weapons section of the soldiers handbook you got in basic (from the 80s) you'll find some ideas. I'm not sure they cover this in these more enlightened, PC times. That's the thing, my mini-mine designs aren't really that small. The net explosive weight should be in the ~1lb area and up, and the diameter should be around 4.5 inches. As far as mines go, that's pretty respectable. Like this guy? http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/cms81586/image_zps9f6ba80d.jpg Actually, my idea revolves around a fully electrical firing train built inside a round electrical box. Those electrical boxes are entirely waterproof, modular, and have numerous openings that can be drilled open. I want to go with an electrical firing train just to make sure I can put in a self-neutralizing circuit that will drain the batteries down over the course of a week, month, year. This would, of course, be selectable. The wife said 'no', but I think I can make the project work. |
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Everyone, I was just informed that the XM-67A1 designation from my design is PRELOADED in the BATFE eForm1. That means that the design papers don't have to be resubmitted and it isn't considered an 'experimental' design.. It also means that it is a fucking legit design. I paper filed my form 1, and they included it in the eForm pages, that's really all I need to know about how concerned they are with my design getting out there. So, frag grenades all around!
Life's more fun when you party with HE. |
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This is great news Wingnut116ACW!
Thanks again for your pioneering effort! So who's doing the first HE 40mm? |
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This is great news Wingnut116ACW! Thanks again for your pioneering effort! So who's doing the first HE 40mm? View Quote I don't know about 40mm, but I DO know a guy that's looking to build an HE 60mm round. NOTE: DO NOT USE BINARY, SHOCK-SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVES IN PROJECTILES. YOU WILL BLOW YOURSELF UP! So, who wants a modular landmine system? |
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Id rather have a claymore honestly…
Just read they are deadly to 50m and effective to 100m. Quite impressed. |
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awesome thread. I live in LV, any chance I could be there when u pull the pin?
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Quoted: Actually, my idea revolves around a fully electrical firing train built inside a round electrical box. Those electrical boxes are entirely waterproof, modular, and have numerous openings that can be drilled open. I want to go with an electrical firing train just to make sure I can put in a self-neutralizing circuit that will drain the batteries down over the course of a week, month, year. This would, of course, be selectable. The wife said 'no', but I think I can make the project work. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I have several thoughts on usage for you "mini-mines", but I'll keep them to myself. I'm sure if you reread the improvised weapons section of the soldiers handbook you got in basic (from the 80s) you'll find some ideas. I'm not sure they cover this in these more enlightened, PC times. That's the thing, my mini-mine designs aren't really that small. The net explosive weight should be in the ~1lb area and up, and the diameter should be around 4.5 inches. As far as mines go, that's pretty respectable. Like this guy? http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/cms81586/image_zps9f6ba80d.jpg Actually, my idea revolves around a fully electrical firing train built inside a round electrical box. Those electrical boxes are entirely waterproof, modular, and have numerous openings that can be drilled open. I want to go with an electrical firing train just to make sure I can put in a self-neutralizing circuit that will drain the batteries down over the course of a week, month, year. This would, of course, be selectable. The wife said 'no', but I think I can make the project work. Send me detailed plans and I'll pay the tax stamp and submit it via eForms. Like your frag, I would document the build in detail. |
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Quoted: I don't know about 40mm, but I DO know a guy that's looking to build an HE 60mm round. NOTE: DO NOT USE BINARY, SHOCK-SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVES IN PROJECTILES. YOU WILL BLOW YOURSELF UP! So, who wants a modular landmine system? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: This is great news Wingnut116ACW! Thanks again for your pioneering effort! So who's doing the first HE 40mm? I don't know about 40mm, but I DO know a guy that's looking to build an HE 60mm round. NOTE: DO NOT USE BINARY, SHOCK-SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVES IN PROJECTILES. YOU WILL BLOW YOURSELF UP! So, who wants a modular landmine system? I hear your friend is leaning towards old fashioned black powder, black powder substitute, or double base smokeless powder as a filler for his 60mm rounds. He's still doing research though. |
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So the storage and transport (taken apart) or use of this exact design doesn't require an explosives permit from the ATF? All it requires is the tax stamp?
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So the storage and transport (taken apart) or use of this exact design doesn't require an explosives permit from the ATF? All it requires is the tax stamp? Behold, the beauty of binary. Genius. I sent you an email as I am also interested in Form 1ing this. Thanks for all your hard work, Wingnut. |
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A 'solidified' binary isn't binary.
Binary means the fuel and oxidizer are stored and shipped separately, generally eliminating legal issues and other complexities found in the 'orange book'...and PLX isn't solid, unless you know of some other PLX than I know of. |
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Most definitely. And let me assure you, this is far from gluing BBs to an M-80. I actually did some filler tests today that went so well, I'm marking the filler question off my to-do list. A pound of the binary filler I used was able to blow a sandbag in half, and I lost the metal stake the charge was attached to. When I can finally finish up this project, I'm going to go for land mines only because I CAN. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Hoo Boy. I am not attacking this build. Really. I think its neat that somebody is doing this. Its pushing the bounds, where others want to say blanket "NO" & "CAN'T DO THAT" - this is a "YES I CAN" Which is more akin to AMERICAN instead of the AmeriCAN'T folks that are out there. Your tax stamp covers your DEVICE - not "glue some BBs to an M80" which I felt that GROG was referring to a completely different device - UNLESS you attach your device to it in some manner... ? 'Attention to detail' - its good in this activity & endeavor. Most definitely. And let me assure you, this is far from gluing BBs to an M-80. I actually did some filler tests today that went so well, I'm marking the filler question off my to-do list. A pound of the binary filler I used was able to blow a sandbag in half, and I lost the metal stake the charge was attached to. When I can finally finish up this project, I'm going to go for land mines only because I CAN. OK wait, I could submit a 200 dollar check and a form 1 to make "an m80 with some BB's glued to it" |
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Pardon me for not reading all 8 pages. The spoon is painted "practice" colors and the body is typically OD with yellow writing. Since this is a real device (and yours) you could paint any color you want. Just wondering about the color selection. I suppose someone that didn't know could mistake it for an inert device.
Cool though. When are you going to throw it? ETA read last couple pages, see where it's not a pull pin and throw type. |
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Pardon me for not reading all 8 pages. The spoon is painted "practice" colors and the body is typically OD with yellow writing. Since this is a real device (and yours) you could paint any color you want. Just wondering about the color selection. I suppose someone that didn't know could mistake it for an inert device. Cool though. When are you going to throw it? ETA read last couple pages, see where it's not a pull pin and throw type. View Quote The spoon, being a live fuze assembly, will likely remain that way until I can get another spoon stripped of paint, engraved, and then painted flat black or OD green, or tan, or whatever and then I will have to come up with a procedure to 'swap' spoons. In the mean time, there won't be any filler in the body. And, if someone even has the opportunity to mistake it for an inert device, it has somehow opened up an X-09 lock and waddled out of my grenade safe. I'm still looking at ideas for putting some lettering on the body with yellow paint. The final color may actually be desert tan. And, my final body will have all air bubbles from casting filled in before the plastidip is applied. BUT, that said, the design and build procedures are finalized now. |
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The spoon, being a live fuze assembly, will likely remain that way until I can get another spoon stripped of paint, engraved, and then painted flat black or OD green, or tan, or whatever and then I will have to come up with a procedure to 'swap' spoons. In the mean time, there won't be any filler in the body. And, if someone even has the opportunity to mistake it for an inert device, it has somehow opened up an X-09 lock and waddled out of my grenade safe. I'm still looking at ideas for putting some lettering on the body with yellow paint. The final color may actually be desert tan. And, my final body will have all air bubbles from casting filled in before the plastidip is applied. BUT, that said, the design and build procedures are finalized now. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Pardon me for not reading all 8 pages. The spoon is painted "practice" colors and the body is typically OD with yellow writing. Since this is a real device (and yours) you could paint any color you want. Just wondering about the color selection. I suppose someone that didn't know could mistake it for an inert device. Cool though. When are you going to throw it? ETA read last couple pages, see where it's not a pull pin and throw type. The spoon, being a live fuze assembly, will likely remain that way until I can get another spoon stripped of paint, engraved, and then painted flat black or OD green, or tan, or whatever and then I will have to come up with a procedure to 'swap' spoons. In the mean time, there won't be any filler in the body. And, if someone even has the opportunity to mistake it for an inert device, it has somehow opened up an X-09 lock and waddled out of my grenade safe. I'm still looking at ideas for putting some lettering on the body with yellow paint. The final color may actually be desert tan. And, my final body will have all air bubbles from casting filled in before the plastidip is applied. BUT, that said, the design and build procedures are finalized now. Cool, looking forward to video. |
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The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable. |
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The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon. The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable. View Quote Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers. Actual Edit: I royally screwed up that edit by making it a quote. I suck. |
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Quoted: The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable. Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers. View Quote That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint. I agree that it's a workable solution. It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it. |
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So did you end up sticking with the racquet ball core surrounded by the frag matrix? Or is it just the frag matrix covered in plastidip? Looks great bro! I look forward too seeing OD ones. |
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Pardon me for not reading all 8 pages. The spoon is painted "practice" colors and the body is typically OD with yellow writing. Since this is a real device (and yours) you could paint any color you want. Just wondering about the color selection. I suppose someone that didn't know could mistake it for an inert device. Cool though. When are you going to throw it? ETA read last couple pages, see where it's not a pull pin and throw type. The spoon, being a live fuze assembly, will likely remain that way until I can get another spoon stripped of paint, engraved, and then painted flat black or OD green, or tan, or whatever and then I will have to come up with a procedure to 'swap' spoons. In the mean time, there won't be any filler in the body. And, if someone even has the opportunity to mistake it for an inert device, it has somehow opened up an X-09 lock and waddled out of my grenade safe. I'm still looking at ideas for putting some lettering on the body with yellow paint. The final color may actually be desert tan. And, my final body will have all air bubbles from casting filled in before the plastidip is applied. BUT, that said, the design and build procedures are finalized now. Cool, looking forward to video. +1-most awesome. |
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That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint. I agree that it's a workable solution. It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable. Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers. That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint. I agree that it's a workable solution. It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it. Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby. If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area. |
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Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby. If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable. Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers. That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint. I agree that it's a workable solution. It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it. Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby. If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area. I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand. |
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I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable. Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers. That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint. I agree that it's a workable solution. It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it. Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby. If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area. I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand. Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance. |
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Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable. Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers. That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint. I agree that it's a workable solution. It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it. Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby. If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area. I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand. Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance. Very good idea. |
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Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: The hole on the side of the fuse near the top is actually a safety hole. You can insert a cotter pin into it and release the spoon.
The striker will do its thing but be retarded in its travel by said cotter pin and you can safely put on your new spoon. Takes some finagling but it's totally doable. Edit: Dont remove the safety cotter pin until the striker is re-cocked and your primary pin and safety clip are in place if you value your fingers. That sounds like the MOST exciting paint job in the history of paint. I agree that it's a workable solution. It still makes my toes tingle thinking about it. Eh, I'll be in my garage with a bucket of water surrounded by sandbags nearby. If I screw up too much, I can just throw it in the water bucket and unass the area. I think every one in Basic had that dumbass that froze with the live grenade in their hand. Full eye and earpro and hard rifle plates will be worn just for cheap insurance. Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"? How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO? |
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Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"? How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO?
Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover. Or, you could walk up and kick it. |
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Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"? How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO? Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover. In your garage? |
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Quoted:Have you thought about what might happen if it doesn't "go off"? How do you plan on dealing with potentially pissed off UXO? Being that it is Ammonal, I will SMUD using M855 from a safe distance, behind adequate frontal cover. In your garage? Eh, if it is just a fuze, throw it on the Weber and hope for the best |
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Not going to lie, I'd be a little scared of using a home made grenade.
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I'm sure he tested solely the fuze assembly, delay train, and detonator/burster countless times...
You did, right? |
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