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Posted: 9/23/2016 5:35:03 AM EDT
[#1]
How hard are you twisting it on there? You don't have to gorilla it on, Just screw it on hand tight and then twist the lock collar.
I shoot a pretty high volume through mine and swap it between a couple ARs and an AK pretty frequently with all kinds of ammo. Or invest in a small strap wrench. |
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Posted: 9/23/2016 7:01:44 AM EDT
[#2]
Are you moving the can between rifles? If you're shooting it with one gun (even a few rounds) then sticking the warm can on a cold mount, you'll get issues like this.
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Posted: 9/23/2016 8:09:14 AM EDT
[#3]
I swap mine all the time, I use choke tube lube on the tapered part of the mount. I just tighten it till it stops and then lock the collar.
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Posted: 9/23/2016 11:02:09 AM EDT
[#4]
I have two Omegas and have not had a problem with sticking. If I swap from one rifle to another I make sure the Omega has cooled before mounting it.
JPK |
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Posted: 9/25/2016 3:00:49 AM EDT
[#5]
Mine sticks all the time.
Cold suppressor on cold gun, 40 rounds? Yep, stuck. ASR stays on the FH while the body unscrews. I have to use a strap wrench to remove the ASR. Happens on my 556 rifle as well as my 762 rifle. Anti-seize on the taper? Nope, tried various formulas, still sticks. I'm about to rocksett the ASR to the body..... |
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Posted: 9/25/2016 8:25:14 AM EDT
[#6]
My Omega will occasionally get stuck after an extended range session and multiple host swaps.
I use the included tools to break the omega free from the MD. Take the Silencerco multi tool and hold the brake in place while using the basic tool (used to install QD mount)to release the Omega. Works every time, no strap wrench needed. Also, be sure not to over tighten a hot can on cold mount. Learned that the hard way. |
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Posted: 9/25/2016 11:29:19 PM EDT
[#7]
I haven't had mine stick yet even swapping between multiple hosts. I do use a very small amount of anti-seize on the mount threads
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Posted: 9/26/2016 1:22:06 AM EDT
[#8]
Does Silencerco maybe use extremely tight thread specs for the portion that threads onto the barrel? With one of my 10/22 rifles my Gemtech OB2 IOU and AAC Prodigy thread on easy, stay on tight, then thread off no problem. Same barrel my brother's Spectre 2 is UNHOLY tight and when removing it and his Octane 45 the tube wanted to come off rather than the whole can. I have been thinking about getting an Omega to dedicate to my PS-90 SBR, I wonder just how common this problem is.
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Posted: 9/26/2016 2:19:15 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does Silencerco maybe use extremely tight thread specs for the portion that threads onto the barrel? With one of my 10/22 rifles my Gemtech OB2 IOU and AAC Prodigy thread on easy, stay on tight, then thread off no problem. Same barrel my brother's Spectre 2 is UNHOLY tight and when removing it and his Octane 45 the tube wanted to come off rather than the whole can. I have been thinking about getting an Omega to dedicate to my PS-90 SBR, I wonder just how common this problem is. I think a lot of people over tighten then because everyone is scared of shooting their can off downrange. |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 3:21:46 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just tighten it till it stops and then lock the collar. Same here. Mine will still get a little tight sometimes after being shot a good bit, but since I stopped "snugging it down" before locking the collar I haven't had one of those "oh shit how am I going to get this off" moments. 
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Posted: 9/26/2016 4:25:30 PM EDT
[#11]
How hot does a suppressor get?
We used to use the copper colored anti-seize at work. We used it on the bolts that held a large filter together. The filter would be on line for up to 6 months, be heated to 550 F, or higher at times, and the bolts were torqued to 500 ft. lbs. (big bolts) prior to use. When it came off line it was nasty, dirty and allowed to cool down before the bolts were removed. I never heard of sticking bolts either. Never messed with suppressors. |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 7:15:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How hot does a suppressor get? We used to use the copper colored anti-seize at work. We used it on the bolts that held a large filter together. The filter would be on line for up to 6 months, be heated to 550 F, or higher at times, and the bolts were torqued to 500 ft. lbs. (big bolts) prior to use. When it came off line it was nasty, dirty and allowed to cool down before the bolts were removed. I never heard of sticking bolts either. Never messed with suppressors. 600* plus easily 3 rounds out of a 12.5" 308 was too hot to touch |
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Posted: 9/26/2016 8:41:41 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
600* plus easily 3 rounds out of a 12.5" 308 was too hot to touch Quote HistoryQuoted:
[span style='font-weight: bold;']Quoted:[/sp
How hot does a suppressor get? We used to use the copper colored anti-seize at work. We used it on the bolts that held a large filter together. The filter would be on line for up to 6 months, be heated to 550 F, or higher at times, and the bolts were torqued to 500 ft. lbs. (big bolts) prior to use. When it came off line it was nasty, dirty and allowed to cool down before the bolts were removed. I never heard of sticking bolts either. Never messed with suppressors. 600* plus easily 3 rounds out of a 12.5" 308 was too hot to touch I have to say that even a 30rnd mag shot at maybe round/sec does not get me Omegas or ULT too hot to touch. Temps goes up,quick after that though. |
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Posted: 9/27/2016 9:27:38 AM EDT
[#14]
My omega is difficult to get off ~50% of the time. It's my first suppressor, so initially I was putting a hot can on a cold mount and obviously ran into problems. That said, now I'm hyper diligent about ensuring both the can and the mount are cool before I'll attach it. Even still, there are times where it's tough to get off. I carry a small towel with me; I can usually wrap that around the ASR mount and muscle the thing off. I'm not putting a lot of torque on the suppressor when mounting it either; barley snug, then engage the lock ring.
It's annoying, but it is what it is. 
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Posted: 9/27/2016 9:33:23 AM EDT
[#15]
Nickel Anti Seize is your friend. I had no luck with my suppressors (AAC SR5, SR7 and SilencerCo Sparrow 22) with Copper Anti Seize. Not only did it make a copper fouling mess, it still stuck. Nickel is a little higher temp rated, doesn't get as messy and works for me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M8RYUY/ref=cm_sw_su_dp?tag=viglink20251-20g
Other trick is to remove the suppressor and leave it off the host rifle after firing - let it cool down but not all the way until its cold. Last resort, as many others have said, strap wrench and elbow grease. |
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Posted: 9/28/2016 3:11:53 AM EDT
[#16]
As stated this isnt my first rodeo. I work in a foundry and we use anti seize alot on tools that are around metal at 3000 degrees. If this wasnt happening every time I use it I wouldnt mind. But it happens every time and no strap wrench or "elbow grease" has solved it. Last time I had to take the can off the ASR. Then send in my break and ASR to Sico who swapped it for a new set. These werent advertised as needing a breaker bar to get the damn can off. Im very let down. Customer service emails never work either and I have to call every time. Theyre good guys and take care of me. But its frustrating to go shoot alittle and have it stuck. Maybe 200 rounds over an 8 hour day of shooting various guns.
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Posted: 9/28/2016 10:08:22 PM EDT
[#17]
This used to happen to me during high volume shooting. FireClean is now my friend. No problems now...
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Posted: 9/28/2016 10:47:02 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As stated this isnt my first rodeo. I work in a foundry and we use anti seize alot on tools that are around metal at 3000 degrees. If this wasnt happening every time I use it I wouldnt mind. But it happens every time and no strap wrench or "elbow grease" has solved it. Last time I had to take the can off the ASR. Then send in my break and ASR to Sico who swapped it for a new set. These werent advertised as needing a breaker bar to get the damn can off. Im very let down. Customer service emails never work either and I have to call every time. Theyre good guys and take care of me. But its frustrating to go shoot alittle and have it stuck. Maybe 200 rounds over an 8 hour day of shooting various guns. I've used LOK-CEASE with great results on a couple Sakers. Might be worth a shot |
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Posted: 9/29/2016 10:08:34 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I haven't had mine stick yet even swapping between multiple hosts. I do use a very small amount of anti-seize on the mount threads Me too. No problems switching between 10.5 556 upper and 8' 300blkout upper. I use the permatex aluminum anti-seize. As soon as my other can gets out of jail I won't have to swap between the 2 uppers anymore. 
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Posted: 10/5/2016 2:27:17 PM EDT
[#20]
I dont see why any regular copper based anti seize wouldnt work unless its being blown out of he threads. I have used a slew of this in my profession. This low amount of heat shouldnt bother it at all. It would honestly be easier for me at this point to just unscrew the entire mount and all from my barrel and swap that.
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Posted: 10/6/2016 5:57:42 AM EDT
[#21]
I use some white "food grade" stuff (I forget the brand) but it's been working great for me. A while back I had a thread about a stuck omega, I had to use a torch to get it off. Someone recommend this stuff and I haven't had any issues since.
The metal based stuff just makes such a huge mess. It gets on the bag, the gun, your hands, clothes, everything. This white stuff doesn't, and wipes away easily. |
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