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Posted: 7/1/2016 11:24:47 PM EDT
 I installed a Saker 762 on a Noveske 300 blackout barrel. I torqued the muzzle brake to 26lbs to achieve alignment using one washer(Percision Armament) The suppressor alignment rod (CNC warrior) aligned perfectly with the brake. I placed the suppressor on the brake and reinstalled the rod. I noticed that one side of the rod is closer to the endcap then the other. I removed the endcap and it appears that the baffles are pretty dang centered to the rod. Intall the cap and u notice the issue. I spun the rod and there is no change in which side it favors. How close is too close? It does not touch the rod, just favors one side to the other. If it's safe to run will it effect accruacy?
Sorry don't know how to post pics.. Upon closer inspection the baffles are ever so slightly off as well. 
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Posted: 7/2/2016 10:13:12 AM EDT
[#1]
Probably safe to shoot, but not acceptable on my rifle.
Your easiest first checkout is to try this can on some other rifles known to be threaded straight. |
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Posted: 7/2/2016 11:39:47 AM EDT
[#2]
Let's see the threads and barrel shoulder.
I'd send the mount and Saker back to SiCo for evaluation. Wait, peel washer or crush washer? |
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Posted: 7/2/2016 3:01:04 PM EDT
[#3]
Peel washer from precision armament
I will pull it apart and take pics. But before that I have another brake for a 5.56 barrel and new barrel.. Going to install that one and see if the pattern continues. Kinda disappointing after a 6 month wait, but I am sure it will all get worked out. |
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Posted: 7/2/2016 6:46:04 PM EDT
[#4]
The Barrel
The Brake with Rod 
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Posted: 7/2/2016 6:58:56 PM EDT
[#5]
The baffles
Sorry its upside down, but you can see a difference from one side to the other. 
I went to install another brake on a 556 barrel and used the thickest accuwasher for gauging the degree you need and noticed a small gap upon installing the brake at hand tight, is this another issue? I was not sure if this barrel would have to be addressed or torquing the brake would close the gap?? These are photos of another barrel. I did not torque the brake on. I was going to use this mockup to see if it was a barrel issue or suppressor issue. But stopped when I saw this. 
  
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Posted: 7/2/2016 7:30:02 PM EDT
[#6]
That gap doesn't look good. I doubt torquing the mount down would close up that gap squarely. The lack of relief cut behind the threads to the shoulder would be my guess.
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Posted: 7/2/2016 7:38:16 PM EDT
[#7]
Well Dang. Where do I send barrels to have the cut/checked etc? I was not expecting these issues. Silencer Shop stated that it would be fine to run, but for this kind of $$, I want to make sure it is right. They stated that as long as the alignment rod was not touching it would be ok.
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Posted: 7/2/2016 8:07:04 PM EDT
[#8]
I think the brake is out of spec. Not the barrel or the suppressor. I guess the MAAD unit could also be the issue.
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Posted: 7/2/2016 8:41:35 PM EDT
[#9]
Before you send it in, make sure the MAAD mount portion of the can is tightened decently on the body of the can. Mine was a little loose when I first picked mine up. It didn't touch the alignment rod but it favored one side similar to yours. Mine was a tad bit less severe though. In any case, after I did that, it lined up perfectly.
ETA: also, did you try the factory shims that came with the muzzle brake? I'd give that shot too before I started shipping things off. |
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Posted: 7/2/2016 8:50:03 PM EDT
[#10]
We have no way of telling how tight your check rod is to the bore or if it will roll true across a microflat.
However, your platform IS an AR-15. Sight down the bore and look at what you see from the breech. If you don't see a pretty and perfectly aligned end cap, some work needs to be done. I bet it looks just fine. I will also say there doesn't look like a proper relief cut has been made at the shoulder of the threads. I bet if you put a layer or four of peel washer under the can, it will line up just right. You can countersink or counterbore the back of the can to accomplish the same goal of skipping over those final threads by the shoulder that are hanging shit up. |
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Posted: 7/2/2016 10:10:19 PM EDT
[#11]
Ok. I tried to use the factory shims on the 300, no go. The brake does not thread on far enough to reach the shoulder of the barrel. I had to use the thicker accu-washers. I tried a thicker and thinner one, then the one originally used to rule that issue out. The rod would be in the same orientation to the brake, as in being close in that side, on which ever washer I used.
Then I tried a thin factory peel washer on the 556 barrel with a saker brake. Torqued a little over 30ftlbs to get a perfect timing on the barrel. Slapped the suppressor on and same issue, just doesn't seem as bad. It's a little closer at the 4 or 5 "o" clock position on the endcap(when looking at it from the front). I tighted the Maad mount to the suppressor and no change. Then loosened it wondering if I over tightened it. No change I used two different rods from CNC Warrior (556&300). If Inspin them in the barrel, there was no indication of them being bent or warped. The rod maintained the same orientation to the endcap. |
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Posted: 7/3/2016 10:20:38 PM EDT
[#12]
Is that '66 a K, A, or C code??
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Posted: 7/3/2016 11:09:40 PM EDT
[#13]
"C" I believe. 289 2-barrel
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Posted: 7/4/2016 6:09:39 PM EDT
[#14]
Very nice! I learned to drive on a C code. 3 spd manual.
Do you have a direct thread mount to double check your BBL? I don't have a Saker but I just received my CNC warrier rods I have shot oin several rifles but never checked alignment. Now that I have rods I will go back and check them. |
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Posted: 7/4/2016 9:52:15 PM EDT
[#15]
Me too! This is my first car, it was my dads before that. My grandfather bought it for him off the showroom floor.
No direct thread. |
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Posted: 7/5/2016 9:42:57 AM EDT
[#16]
Looks like no thread relief has been cut on it and its not allowing the cans/mounts to seat against the shoulder.
I cut a ton of these reliefs in factory threaded barrels every month, remington being the most common. |
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Posted: 7/5/2016 12:12:36 PM EDT
[#17]
You might try opening up the shim a little bit with a small half round file or something. Just enough to get the washer to touch the barrel shoulder.
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Posted: 7/7/2016 9:42:32 AM EDT
[#18]
Spoke with SiCo. Seems they want to start by replacing The brake and Maad mount. They stated it should be good to shoot & to let them know if I have accuracy issues. But my OCD is wanting a better alignment. Would a alignment like this affect POI or accuracy? I also am going to send both barrels to ADCO and have them checked, but I wonder both barrels have the alignment rods in the same orientation. I figure I will play this slow and safe.
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Posted: 7/9/2016 6:17:48 PM EDT
[#19]
Suppressor sent to SiCo for EDM eval, they have been great to work with. Sent them many pictures over a couple of days and they requested a eval.
Barrels where pulled and sent to ADCO for eval. I figured it would be odd for both barrels to be off in the same orientation but you never know. Figured I would cover all bases. |
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Posted: 7/9/2016 7:50:16 PM EDT
[#20]
I just checked my SCAR 17 w/Sandman S and Micro 7 w/Sandman L with a Geiselle rod and they aren't perfectly centered either. I have several hundred rounds through both and have seen no ill effects. I don't like it but I'm not going to worry about it now.
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Posted: 7/10/2016 3:18:39 PM EDT
[#21]
I could see a "little off" but I feel that mine was a little excessive. The response from barrel manufacture, suppressor manufacture and machinists. All agreed it "should" be good to go. I was not comfortable with "should". I am Wondering what is exceptable amount of variance is?
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Posted: 7/10/2016 4:50:45 PM EDT
[#22]
Not to hijack the thread but I've never thought about doing an Alinement, is this a common thing?
Should I be doing it when I put a new mount on a gun? |
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Posted: 7/10/2016 5:02:01 PM EDT
[#23]
I would use a shim set and not a peel washer. The difference is precision. Shim sets are cheap enough to keep a couple extra on hand.
MAHA |
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Posted: 7/10/2016 7:20:58 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not to hijack the thread but I've never thought about doing an Alinement, is this a common thing?Should I be doing it when I put a new mount on a gun? Not a bad idea to check it. |
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Posted: 7/10/2016 9:15:13 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not a bad idea to check it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Not to hijack the thread but I've never thought about doing an Alinement, is this a common thing?Should I be doing it when I put a new mount on a gun? Not a bad idea to check it. I just look down the bore....Nothing special. Haven't had an issue yet. |
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Posted: 7/11/2016 1:29:05 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I just look down the bore....Nothing special. Haven't had an issue yet. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Not to hijack the thread but I've never thought about doing an Alinement, is this a common thing?Should I be doing it when I put a new mount on a gun? Not a bad idea to check it. I just look down the bore....Nothing special. Haven't had an issue yet. |
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Posted: 7/23/2016 1:19:55 AM EDT
[#27]
Sent the barrels to ADCO for concentricity checks and have the thread relief/shoulder checked/cut. Both barrels came back GTG, the thread relief was cut on both barrels. I sent the suppressor off to SICO, they stated the EDM was a little off (but still with in specs) but recored it anyway. It still lines up the same. The only difference is the notch in the baffles is where the alignment rod was closest to the endcap/baffles instead of the 9:00 "o" clock position before. Any thoughts??
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Posted: 7/23/2016 10:56:10 AM EDT
[#28]
Well... ADCO says barrels are concentric and good to go, SilencerCo says it's good to go... I say go shoot it! At this point, if anything isn't right- its on them.
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Posted: 7/23/2016 8:04:09 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sent the barrels to ADCO for concentricity checks and have the thread relief/shoulder checked/cut. Both barrels came back GTG, the thread relief was cut on both barrels. I sent the suppressor off to SICO, they stated the EDM was a little off (but still with in specs) but recored it anyway. It still lines up the same. The only difference is the notch in the baffles is where the alignment rod was closest to the endcap/baffles instead of the 9:00 "o" clock position before. Any thoughts?? They're saying it's good. Shoot the damn thing. 
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Posted: 7/24/2016 9:39:08 AM EDT
[#30]
Ok. Even thou I don't like the alignment. I decided to go shoot it.
On the 16" 556 barrel, I had a POI change of 1" left & 2" down at 50 yards. Is this within an acceptable range? I have not yet been able to sight in the 8.5" 300 BLK. |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 10:25:46 AM EDT
[#31]
All rifles have some impact shift. No two the same. You are in the average of everyone else. I had one that was 10" down and 4" right on a .308 20 in pencil barrel. You will have to decide, after more testing of ammo, if you will leave zero with the can on or off. On the rifles I will only shoot suppressed, all of them, I zero the scope with the can on and call it good. If you shoot unsuppressed just remember your hold.
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Posted: 7/24/2016 10:05:12 PM EDT
[#32]
Just a random thought. Try putting the devices on without any shims or washers and check the alignment. That will eliminate the shims or washers as a source of the problem. I have a Griffin taper mount that will align straight without shims and upside down but not if I add enough shims to index it right side up. Upside down only requires 1 shim on that particular unit.
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Posted: 7/25/2016 12:19:29 AM EDT
[#33]
While I didn't try installing without washers. I used to three different brands ( SiCo, Accu-Washers & Noveske). All had the same results. On the 300 barrel I had to use washers/shims, the brake would not hit the shoulder when screwed all the way on.
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