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Posted: 5/23/2015 11:26:56 PM EDT
[#1]
I believe you might be better off with this product as far as silicone goes. It is MicroLubrol(TM) 100% pure silicone oil. The one posted by the OP does not state that it is 100% pure like some others do on Amazon.
"•100% Silicone Oil - NO petroleum distillates or ANY additives, solvents or propellants." "•Essentially odorless, tasteless and nontoxic. Clear, colorless - will NOT stain." http://www.amazon.com/MicroLubrol-TM-Treadmill-Lubricant-Multi-Viscosity/dp/B00DJV43BY/ref=pd_sim_200_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1XQB1VWENG98MRTQV0DF |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 8:03:54 AM EDT
[#2]
So how are the results on pistol cans. Considering doing this to my MysticX when its approved.
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Posted: 5/24/2015 8:48:51 AM EDT
[#3]
a buddy of mine sprayed his suppressor internals with silicone spray like you find at walmart, and said it did very well. the crud just wiped right off after a shooting session. seems like that would be a cheap and easy way if it works.
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Posted: 5/24/2015 9:18:48 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have no idea. But every time I read a post from you, I get locked in to staring at your avatar for five minutes. Resume normal operations. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So what is the final decision on this? Picking up a new pilot 2 today. Which dot fluid are you supposed to use? Anyone else done this? I have no idea. But every time I read a post from you, I get locked in to staring at your avatar for five minutes. Resume normal operations. THIS.... |
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Posted: 5/24/2015 12:27:57 PM EDT
[#5]
I have had the chance to shoot my treated suppressors several times. No specific round count as most of it was pest control. I would guess between 150 and 200 rounds of 9mm through the Octane and about 400 through the Kestrel. They both wiped clean. The blast baffles on them was a little more elbow work to get them spotless again but a quick run in the tumbler and they shined up 98% as new. I got an Element so I re treated a Kestrel, the Octane and the Element at 275* for a couple of hours. The only supressor it didnt hold well on was my room mates Element,he has been demoing it wet adn I think the water pulls the oils out so it was alittle harder to clean.
MAHA |
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Posted: 5/28/2015 2:05:47 AM EDT
[#6]
My apologies if this has been covered and wish I would of found this thread prior to a few months of time spent on cleaning the baffles and the time spent. At times I swore I was done with fighting the carbon but, like shooting too much. I have been soaking the baffles in Slip 2k carbon killer, which seemed to be the best for me.
Anyway, just today I reluctantly caved to purchase the G-Core(single core) upgrade for 249.xx. I understand not knowing the material used for the G core may be an industry secret(rolling eyes) but does anyone see any issue following suit, heating and treating it with the silicone? Also...is anyone soaking their exterior sleeve as well as it also seems to get a bit of build up. I am also waiting on a GMT 300 Titanium to come through and am curious of treating the titanium core on it. I guess I just need other opinions as I can't think of any potential issues treating any core material. Thanks in advance. |
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Posted: 5/28/2015 12:44:47 PM EDT
[#7]
My room mate has treated his element. Tube, baffles, and end cap. Tube is Ti. No issues so far.
MAHA |
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Posted: 5/28/2015 4:13:48 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My apologies if this has been covered and wish I would of found this thread prior to a few months of time spent on cleaning the baffles and the time spent. At times I swore I was done with fighting the carbon but, like shooting too much. I have been soaking the baffles in Slip 2k carbon killer, which seemed to be the best for me. Anyway, just today I reluctantly caved to purchase the G-Core(single core) upgrade for 249.xx. I understand not knowing the material used for the G core may be an industry secret(rolling eyes) but does anyone see any issue following suit, heating and treating it with the silicone? Also...is anyone soaking their exterior sleeve as well as it also seems to get a bit of build up. I am also waiting on a GMT 300 Titanium to come through and am curious of treating the titanium core on it. I guess I just need other opinions as I can't think of any potential issues treating any core material. Thanks in advance. You're worrying too much. |
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Posted: 5/28/2015 4:40:52 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You're worrying too much. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My apologies if this has been covered and wish I would of found this thread prior to a few months of time spent on cleaning the baffles and the time spent. At times I swore I was done with fighting the carbon but, like shooting too much. I have been soaking the baffles in Slip 2k carbon killer, which seemed to be the best for me. Anyway, just today I reluctantly caved to purchase the G-Core(single core) upgrade for 249.xx. I understand not knowing the material used for the G core may be an industry secret(rolling eyes) but does anyone see any issue following suit, heating and treating it with the silicone? Also...is anyone soaking their exterior sleeve as well as it also seems to get a bit of build up. I am also waiting on a GMT 300 Titanium to come through and am curious of treating the titanium core on it. I guess I just need other opinions as I can't think of any potential issues treating any core material. Thanks in advance. You're worrying too much. about? I don't worry about much if anything. Just an inquiry, much like the others. |
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Posted: 5/28/2015 4:45:29 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
about? I don't worry about much if anything. Just an inquiry, much like the others. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My apologies if this has been covered and wish I would of found this thread prior to a few months of time spent on cleaning the baffles and the time spent. At times I swore I was done with fighting the carbon but, like shooting too much. I have been soaking the baffles in Slip 2k carbon killer, which seemed to be the best for me. Anyway, just today I reluctantly caved to purchase the G-Core(single core) upgrade for 249.xx. I understand not knowing the material used for the G core may be an industry secret(rolling eyes) but does anyone see any issue following suit, heating and treating it with the silicone? Also...is anyone soaking their exterior sleeve as well as it also seems to get a bit of build up. I am also waiting on a GMT 300 Titanium to come through and am curious of treating the titanium core on it. I guess I just need other opinions as I can't think of any potential issues treating any core material. Thanks in advance. You're worrying too much. about? I don't worry about much if anything. Just an inquiry, much like the others. You're quite free to, of course. I'm just telling you in a friendly manner that the probability of a metal that is durable enough to be used in a suppressor being harmed somehow by silicone is pretty much non existent. If you read up on silicone, you'll see. |
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Posted: 5/28/2015 10:36:02 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You're quite free to, of course. I'm just telling you in a friendly manner that the probability of a metal that is durable enough to be used in a suppressor being harmed somehow by silicone is pretty much non existent. If you read up on silicone, you'll see. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My apologies if this has been covered and wish I would of found this thread prior to a few months of time spent on cleaning the baffles and the time spent. At times I swore I was done with fighting the carbon but, like shooting too much. I have been soaking the baffles in Slip 2k carbon killer, which seemed to be the best for me. Anyway, just today I reluctantly caved to purchase the G-Core(single core) upgrade for 249.xx. I understand not knowing the material used for the G core may be an industry secret(rolling eyes) but does anyone see any issue following suit, heating and treating it with the silicone? Also...is anyone soaking their exterior sleeve as well as it also seems to get a bit of build up. I am also waiting on a GMT 300 Titanium to come through and am curious of treating the titanium core on it. I guess I just need other opinions as I can't think of any potential issues treating any core material. Thanks in advance. You're worrying too much. about? I don't worry about much if anything. Just an inquiry, much like the others. You're quite free to, of course. I'm just telling you in a friendly manner that the probability of a metal that is durable enough to be used in a suppressor being harmed somehow by silicone is pretty much non existent. If you read up on silicone, you'll see. What caliber is your can? If it is anything center fire them they will get over 275* with use. Rim fire I would say will get close as well. It also looks like g-core is a design and not a metal. MAHA |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 8:26:54 AM EDT
[#12]
So are we seeing the DOT5 performing as good as the silicon off amazon or is there a dramatic difference? My Spectre 2 cam in today and I want to start off right.
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Posted: 6/18/2015 9:06:22 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Has anyone thought of using this in a wet can? |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 2:25:59 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure I'd want to get brake fluid in my face. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Has anyone thought of using this in a wet can? I think it would be more appropriate to use pure, food-grade silicone oil... not brake fluid... to shoot it wet. I would not shoot it wet with silicone, though. I think Water or Wire-Pulling gel are still better. You need a low boiling point to be effective as a coolant. |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 2:29:57 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good to go. My Lex9 baffles are aluminum. They took the treatment just as well as the SS baffles. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask. The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too. Good to go. My Lex9 baffles are aluminum. They took the treatment just as well as the SS baffles. I may have missed it in the thread but to what temperature did you heat your aluminum baffles to and for how long? Thanks in advance. |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 3:09:53 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I may have missed it in the thread but to what temperature did you heat your aluminum baffles to and for how long? Thanks in advance. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask. The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too. Good to go. My Lex9 baffles are aluminum. They took the treatment just as well as the SS baffles. I may have missed it in the thread but to what temperature did you heat your aluminum baffles to and for how long? Thanks in advance. 250 F for 15 minutes was the original procedure. I don't think any aluminum alloys are effected by temperatures under 300 degrees. The trick is to get the surface as clean as possible prior to the treatment. Are they anodized? |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 3:16:33 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Safe for aluminum cans, too. Most of the lines in a car filled with DOT 5 brake fluid are aluminum. Are you sure about that???? |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 3:17:40 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I know nothing about tumblers, but I'm interested in trying this method out. I have the Silencerco Sparrow SS. The can is 5 inches long. Do I need a $200-$300 tumbler to make this work or will a smaller, cheaper version work like one from Harbor freight & Tool? I don't mind buying a 5 lb. bag of stainless steel media. Also, the Sparrow does not have a removable baffle stack, but is a single long piece with integrated baffles.What concerns me the the end of the can is also part of the baffle stack and might go from black to shiny metal in the tumbler. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KdqBU6EwEAA/VQDrL2EUGpI/AAAAAAAASYg/VPUcuvK2-qE/s800/mpc-parts.png Why put that part in the tumbler????? 
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Posted: 6/18/2015 4:06:20 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
250 F for 15 minutes was the original procedure. I don't think any aluminum alloys are effected by temperatures under 300 degrees. The trick is to get the surface as clean as possible prior to the treatment. Are they anodized? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask. The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too. Good to go. My Lex9 baffles are aluminum. They took the treatment just as well as the SS baffles. I may have missed it in the thread but to what temperature did you heat your aluminum baffles to and for how long? Thanks in advance. 250 F for 15 minutes was the original procedure. I don't think any aluminum alloys are effected by temperatures under 300 degrees. The trick is to get the surface as clean as possible prior to the treatment. Are they anodized? The aluminum suppressors I have are the Warlock 2 and GM-22. I am not really sure what type of coating they apply on them from the factory but the baffles are black in color. |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 4:20:16 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why put that part in the tumbler? You have to remove EVERY bit of carbon, lead, and fouling from the surface of the baffles, otherwise you are just treating the fouling and not the surface of the baffles. If it's a new can, you should only need to use a solvent to clean the baffles. |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 4:54:29 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You have to remove EVERY bit of carbon, lead, and fouling from the surface of the baffles, otherwise you are just treating the fouling and not the surface of the baffles. If it's a new can, you should only need to use a solvent to clean the baffles. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Why put that part in the tumbler? You have to remove EVERY bit of carbon, lead, and fouling from the surface of the baffles, otherwise you are just treating the fouling and not the surface of the baffles. If it's a new can, you should only need to use a solvent to clean the baffles. Then, if the tumbler could damage it, clean that little part by hand... |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 8:37:45 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Then, if the tumbler could damage it, clean that little part by hand... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Why put that part in the tumbler? You have to remove EVERY bit of carbon, lead, and fouling from the surface of the baffles, otherwise you are just treating the fouling and not the surface of the baffles. If it's a new can, you should only need to use a solvent to clean the baffles. Then, if the tumbler could damage it, clean that little part by hand... I do not believe anybody has said that the tumblers are damaging baffles. Have you tried to clean dirty baffles by hand and ended up with as-new baffles. |
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Posted: 6/18/2015 10:06:50 PM EDT
[#23]
Soda blasting setup. Get a small siphon blasting gun and a 2lb container of baking soda. Great way to clean aluminum suppressor. Very quick!
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Posted: 6/19/2015 9:08:26 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I may have missed it in the thread but to what temperature did you heat your aluminum baffles to and for how long? Thanks in advance. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask. The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too. Good to go. My Lex9 baffles are aluminum. They took the treatment just as well as the SS baffles. I may have missed it in the thread but to what temperature did you heat your aluminum baffles to and for how long? Thanks in advance. If i recall correctly, I heated mine to 450 for about 20 minutes. Thn put them in the dot 5 for several hours, then drip-dried on a towel overnight. They dont dry off, cause it is oil, so wipe off before you put back in. |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 9:25:06 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If i recall correctly, I heated mine to 450 for about 20 minutes. Thn put them in the dot 5 for several hours, then drip-dried on a towel overnight. They dont dry off, cause it is oil, so wipe off before you put back in. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask. The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too. Good to go. My Lex9 baffles are aluminum. They took the treatment just as well as the SS baffles. I may have missed it in the thread but to what temperature did you heat your aluminum baffles to and for how long? Thanks in advance. If i recall correctly, I heated mine to 450 for about 20 minutes. Thn put them in the dot 5 for several hours, then drip-dried on a towel overnight. They dont dry off, cause it is oil, so wipe off before you put back in. |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 9:26:35 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would caution against heating aluminum this high. We changed a 6061 T6 aluminum part's strength significantly by heating to 482 F for 1 hour. It buckled in an impact test that the same part previously passed repeatedly. Know your heat treatment curves if you go this hot. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask. The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too. Good to go. My Lex9 baffles are aluminum. They took the treatment just as well as the SS baffles. I may have missed it in the thread but to what temperature did you heat your aluminum baffles to and for how long? Thanks in advance. If i recall correctly, I heated mine to 450 for about 20 minutes. Thn put them in the dot 5 for several hours, then drip-dried on a towel overnight. They dont dry off, cause it is oil, so wipe off before you put back in. I didnt know this. I will not do it again, that's for sure. |
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Posted: 6/19/2015 1:06:39 PM EDT
[#27]
I am fairly certain suppressors reach temps far above 450 while in use.
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Posted: 6/19/2015 1:08:06 PM EDT
[#28]
I would stay under 300 degrees... 250 is what was recommended and I find that prudent. It depends a bit on the type of aluminum. 6061 T6 has an ageing temperature of 350 degrees while 7075 T6 has an ageing temp of 250 degrees. 15 minutes also seems a bit long as aluminum has VERY high thermal conductivity, but I guess that ensures that the oven gets back to temp when you open the door. I have thought about using a baking thermometer and a hot plate in the yard and just heating the DOT5 to 250 degrees, holding for 15 minutes, then letting the whole shebang cool overnight.
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Posted: 6/19/2015 1:15:03 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am fairly certain suppressors reach temps far above 450 while in use. For short periods of time, possibly. We are also talking about pistol and rimfire cans with aluminum baffles. I'm sure you can crank the stainless steel ones to 450, but the boiling point of Silicone is 500, IIRC. We plan on using this stuff over and over, correct? |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 2:19:22 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For short periods of time, possibly. We are also talking about pistol and rimfire cans with aluminum baffles. I'm sure you can crank the stainless steel ones to 450, but the boiling point of Silicone is 500, IIRC. We plan on using this stuff over and over, correct? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I am fairly certain suppressors reach temps far above 450 while in use. For short periods of time, possibly. We are also talking about pistol and rimfire cans with aluminum baffles. I'm sure you can crank the stainless steel ones to 450, but the boiling point of Silicone is 500, IIRC. We plan on using this stuff over and over, correct? Yep, thats the plan. But, the question was the AI temp issue, not silicone's. Although, I think should also be questioned is, what is silicone's performance degradation temperature. I agree that using the articles temp recommendation, just doubt any damage could be done at 450 to either the AI or silicone for such a short period of time. My point is that I suspect suppressor temps after treatment reach in excess of 450 easily and doubt there are any adverse effects on the AI or silicone treatment. |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 9:01:20 AM EDT
[#31]
I just got a new MysticX.
Seeing how its factory clean, should I use this opportunity to pretreat it with the DOT5 / silicon oil method? Is this method worth the work or just a gimmick? Dealer said Froglube pretreat is the best, yet I hear otherwise and I am interested in the silicon oil. If its recommended, should I do the inside of the Ti tube as well as the core? The tube is ceracoated, so probably not a good Idea to heat it and maybe just do that part cold??????? |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 10:28:37 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just got a new MysticX. Seeing how its factory clean, should I use this opportunity to pretreat it with the DOT5 / silicon oil method? Is this method worth the work or just a gimmick? Dealer said Froglube pretreat is the best, yet I hear otherwise and I am interested in the silicon oil. If its recommended, should I do the inside of the Ti tube as well as the core? The tube is ceracoated, so probably not a good Idea to heat it and maybe just do that part cold??????? I'd do it while it's clean. I don't think I've seen someone do it and say it didn't help with cleaning. I'd do silicon oil due to it being an element and not having anything else added to it so you know exactly how it's going to work. |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 2:05:10 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd do it while it's clean. I don't think I've seen someone do it and say it didn't help with cleaning. I'd do silicon oil due to it being an element and not having anything else added to it so you know exactly how it's going to work. Silicon is an element, but 'silicone' is a silicon-based polymer. So, yeah. It's like liquid teflon, but not quite. |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 3:09:00 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dealer said Froglube pretreat is the best, yet I hear otherwise and I am interested in the silicon oil. If its recommended, should I do the inside of the Ti tube as well as the core? The tube is ceracoated, so probably not a good Idea to heat it and maybe just do that part cold??????? I wouldn't touch FrogLube with a 10-foot pole. Nor would I put mystery goo inside the suppressor. Green, scented Crisco that NOBODY knows what's in it? To be food safe, it must have some pretty weak stuff in it. I'd trust pure silicone oil LONG before I'd trust frog lube and it's lots cheaper. |
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Posted: 6/20/2015 7:35:14 PM EDT
[#35]
I did mine w/ the recommended brake fluid and actually got to shoot it today. I won't know how good or bad it is until I clean it which is probably going to be months down the road AT LEAST. What I did notice is that the first few rounds blew some nasty smoke out of the ejection port of my AR 22.
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Posted: 6/21/2015 12:28:32 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did mine w/ the recommended brake fluid and actually got to shoot it today. I won't know how good or bad it is until I clean it which is probably going to be months down the road AT LEAST. What I did notice is that the first few rounds blew some nasty smoke out of the ejection port of my AR 22. Hmmmm, so maybe a few fouling shots before taking it out hunting? |
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Posted: 8/13/2015 1:20:56 PM EDT
[#37]
Sorry for raising this thread from the dead!
So I decided to try out 2 of the most popular treatments suggested from several websites, silicon and fireclean. The test mules will be a Octane 9 & 45. The octane 45 will be treated with the silicon oil and the octane 9 will be treated with fireclean. Both cans were dipped, cleaned ultrasonically, degreased and treated. They will be fired from 2 hosts. M&P9 using 147gr Remington and a Ranch hand in 38spl. I'll fire 50rnds from each host. I'll get to the range this weekend and post my feedback with pictures. |
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Posted: 8/13/2015 3:42:47 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sorry for raising this thread from the dead! So I decided to try out 2 of the most popular treatments suggested from several websites, silicon and fireclean. The test mules will be a Octane 9 & 45. The octane 45 will be treated with the silicon oil and the octane 9 will be treated with fireclean. Both cans were dipped, cleaned ultrasonically, degreased and treated. They will be fired from 2 hosts. M&P9 using 147gr Remington and a Ranch hand in 38spl. I'll fire 50rnds from each host. I'll get to the range this weekend and post my feedback with pictures. Looking forward to hearing the results. 
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Posted: 8/14/2015 9:36:19 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looking forward to hearing the results. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Sorry for raising this thread from the dead! So I decided to try out 2 of the most popular treatments suggested from several websites, silicon and fireclean. The test mules will be a Octane 9 & 45. The octane 45 will be treated with the silicon oil and the octane 9 will be treated with fireclean. Both cans were dipped, cleaned ultrasonically, degreased and treated. They will be fired from 2 hosts. M&P9 using 147gr Remington and a Ranch hand in 38spl. I'll fire 50rnds from each host. I'll get to the range this weekend and post my feedback with pictures. Looking forward to hearing the results. Same here. I've got a new Tirant-9 and Spectre-2 that I haven't had time to use yet and have been wondering if I should treat them with something first. |
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Posted: 8/14/2015 9:41:06 PM EDT
[#40]
I tried the Fireclean, it did not do shit on a Spectre II.
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Posted: 8/14/2015 10:01:51 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I tried the Fireclean, it did not do shit on a Spectre II. Your experience matches mine. |
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Posted: 8/20/2015 8:16:52 AM EDT
[#42]
It works.
Brand new Spectre II. Cleaned in Mineral Spirits. Did not have easy oven access, so put DOT 5 in a loaf pan from Walmart with the parts and heated with a propane torch (have to be careful as the brake fluid will bubble/boil pretty quick fi you aren't moving the flame around) and let sit overnight. Used the DOT 5 on blast baffle, and the last three baffles in the stack. Tried Silicone Spray in an aerosol on one baffle. Tried "York's Spatter Pruff" anti-spatter welding spray on another. Tired "Pam for Grills" on another. Left one untreated as a control. Shot 300 rounds of bulk ammo in a Sig p229 .22 conversion. The blast baffle was still hard to clean/wipe. The Silicone spray, York's and Pam were really no different than the control (rough coating inside baffles that could not be wiped off). The last 3 treated with DOT 5 could be wiped with a paper towel and the stuff came out almost in chunks. I was really hoping to find a simple aerosol solution to avoid the hassle of soaking/heating etc. All the components are currently soaking in DOT 5....... |
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Posted: 8/20/2015 1:44:46 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was really hoping to find a simple aerosol solution to avoid the hassle of soaking/heating etc. All the components are currently soaking in DOT 5....... Get a hot plate and a small pan. It's important to heat the metal first. An oven is really the best way to go about this because it heats evenly. The purpose of the heat is to open the pores on the metal and allow the silicone chains to grab on and hold on. |
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Posted: 8/20/2015 5:31:29 PM EDT
[#44]
I've just been heating the fluid and all. Heating in the fluid will evenly heat up the parts (and I was going to add that the parts currently soaking were also cooling off in the DOT 5
 )
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Posted: 8/20/2015 8:31:46 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've just been heating the fluid and all. Heating in the fluid will evenly heat up the parts (and I was going to add that the parts currently soaking were also cooling off in the DOT 5 )Ah, so you're dunking the parts and heating it all together. |
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Posted: 8/20/2015 10:25:05 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ah, so you're dunking the parts and heating it all together. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've just been heating the fluid and all. Heating in the fluid will evenly heat up the parts (and I was going to add that the parts currently soaking were also cooling off in the DOT 5 )Ah, so you're dunking the parts and heating it all together. Yup toss the parts in a meatloaf pan of dot 5 and bake at 275* for hour. MAHA |
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Posted: 8/21/2015 2:41:41 AM EDT
[#47]
Has anyone had any issues with the finish on the outside of the can, after using DOT 5 brake fluid?
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Posted: 8/21/2015 3:01:10 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Has anyone had any issues with the finish on the outside of the can, after using DOT 5 brake fluid? Krylon bbq high temp paint is what you seek. |
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Posted: 8/21/2015 4:22:41 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Has anyone had any issues with the finish on the outside of the can, after using DOT 5 brake fluid? I don't think most people are treating the outside of the can; just treat the baffles and if you have a centerfire pistol can, treat the spring & piston as well. I have a fixed barrel spacer I'll also be treating when I'm running the carbines. |
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Posted: 8/21/2015 4:46:01 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't think most people are treating the outside of the can; just treat the baffles and if you have a centerfire pistol can, treat the spring & piston as well. I have a fixed barrel spacer I'll also be treating when I'm running the carbines. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Has anyone had any issues with the finish on the outside of the can, after using DOT 5 brake fluid? I don't think most people are treating the outside of the can; just treat the baffles and if you have a centerfire pistol can, treat the spring & piston as well. I have a fixed barrel spacer I'll also be treating when I'm running the carbines. Um no. Treat both. The core and the entire tube should be treated. The inside of the tube is a pain in the ass to clean with a brush and gets just as filthy as the baffles or core. The difference between the tubes before I started treating with silicone and the ones after are night and day. Here is how I treat either of my two Outback IID's. Preheat oven 275 place in small cake pan and bake for 10-15 minutes 
Remove and put both tube and core in mason jar filled with silicon purchased on Amazon until cool. 
Remove and and drain wiping sown outside 
Shoot 
This is after a minimum of 300 Gemtech's .22 rounds and cleaned with paper towel and bore snake 
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