How where they able to move the sight back?  It looks like it's a permanent part of the barrel.

From what I remember reading in their post, the smith basically lopped off that section of barrel, bored it out, and threaded whatever TPI, then basically screwed it on like a muzzle device.  

I think I ended up with a .001 and a .002 for a total of .003". Not much but it made a noticeable difference that you could feel when closing the bolt. .004 was too much and closing the bolt was difficult.
#1 I tried trimming the brass but whether new or multiple fired brass my trimmer would only seem to trim a tad off of one side. Seems like it had a bent shaft or something. Using a new Lee trimmer and case gauge. The brass varied in length but the trimmer seemed to think they were all fine for length except about 30% of one side. Gave up on that.
#2 I think you are on to something there. These rifles, or maybe it's the 44 mag cartridge, but they are very velocity dependent due to the (relatively) poor trajectory. Before installing the shims I was averaging about 85 fps deviation in velocity over 5 shots and groups were 5". After the shims SD went down to about 20-25 fps and groups shrank. Oddly, before and after the shims, most groups were scattered horizontally and ALWAYS with a flyer that was way low and left. Still can't figure that out. But the groups shrank after the shims for whatever reason. I'm hand loading and measuring everything carefully on a digital scale as best I can.
#3 I'm not sure how to do that and still crimp on the proper spot. I'm guessing the chamber is way longer than it needs to be on these guns.

And yes the stock is about the flimsiest thing I have ever seen so I pull the bag in pretty close too. I've sanded the shit out of the left side and it's still fairly close to the barrel but I don't think it's making contact. They must vacuum form them around a banana?
Really this gun shoots subsonic 300s well enough to make me happy, its the supersonic rounds (for youth deer season) that seem to be problematic. Surprisingly, for being such a pain in the ass I still really like this gun. It's just such a sturdy, compact, and good handling package I guess? Once the kids graduate out of youth seasons it will probably be relegated to subsonic thumper rounds for medium sized critters and just plain old giggles.

I believe that is the basic idea, although I'm not sure he is boring out the original sight. It kind of looks like he is machining a whole new piece and threading that on? I had assumed he was doing what was described above but from looking at it closely I think he may be making it from scratch and using the factory dovetail sight.

Is the band that holds thw front sight a part of the barrel from the factory or is it a separate part that's attached to the barrel?  I really can't tell by looking at my rifle.

Machined as part of the barrel as far as I can tell.  Why they did it that way, I have no freaking idea.  

Call Jim at jpgrips.com and ask him. Only way to be sure.
I showed another "gunsmith" that and he said "$250-300 with thread protector" [Over twice Jims price]

I just picked up a NIB 77/357 for $550 on gunbroker. I don't know if it is a new production one or not. I have been looking for one for a couple years but didn't want to pay $750. If you could find one with a nice scope or 4 or 5 mags it would be worth it tho.

I just dropped it off at my smith to have the barrel cut back to 17.5" and threaded but he won't be back until the 13th.  I wanted to keep the barrel as long as possible for maximum velocity with supersonics and quietest with subs. He is pretty busy right now and didn't want to take on the task of setting back the front sight but I think it will look clean without it and I will only be using a Luepold 1-4x scope anyways. It also get rid of any possible tight spots under the front sight and have a fresh 11' target crown.

I will be using my Huntertown Arms Guardian 9 which is very similar to a SiCo Octane 9HD which I hope will be able to handle high velocity ammo. I may need to get my baffles upgraded to stainless.

I have read the horror stories about some 77/357 barrels being only good for tomato stakes but hopefully freefloating and handloading will get me under 2.5MOA. I also dread shooting lead threw my suppressor but hopefully powder coated bullets will take care of that. I will try to stick with jacketed or do load testing without the suppressor. I wish they made the XTP in 200grain. In the future I will look into getting a 200-250gr mold modified for hollowpoints.

All my threading goes here. Top notch.

Does anyone know of a 245gr mould that has more of a flat point like the Hunter bullets and would also fit the mag with 38spl brass in the crimp grove?

I received my 77/44 SRT integral from NFA purgatory. With 44spl JHP/JSP rounds, man it's  soo much fun to shoot. No recoil, pellet gun signature (unless you are shooting steel plates). So much fun.

Is your barrel already floated? I read an article that claimed often times random fliers in a group can be corrected by bedding the stock.

Are yall sizing to .358 or .359? Has anyone actually measured there bore?

For those shimming the bolt, how the hell are you doing it? Maybe i am just not understanding it as i haven't seen a 77/357 in forever.

The bolt comes into 2 parts.  Separate the bolt and put shims between the halves. Find the ones that help it lockup tighter without binding and you're done. 

Okay. Thanks. Hopefully one day soon i will be able to get one so that  is helpfull. Maybe we can convince Ruger to come out with a model that is pretreaded by then!