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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:53:57 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mine is off at the engravers but I think the ID where the treads are is over 1.375", there is a decent amount of material removed from the threaded section. I thought there was a way to remove material from the inside on a lathe, like how brakes like the Battlecomp, dynacomp, etc have larger ID than the holes are. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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The tube that I purchased from Apogee is already internally threaded. Opening up the ID would destroy the threads. Mine is off at the engravers but I think the ID where the treads are is over 1.375", there is a decent amount of material removed from the threaded section. I thought there was a way to remove material from the inside on a lathe, like how brakes like the Battlecomp, dynacomp, etc have larger ID than the holes are. Yes, you can with a boring bar but remember that you have to pass the larger diameter parts, spacers and baffles, past the threads which will have a smaller diameter. A plan might be to use the externally threaded tubes. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 11:57:14 AM EDT
[#2]
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If you do this it would make more since to purchase 1.375 Titanium tube instead and have the OD turned down to 1.350 or 1.345etc. , it would fit in the tube perfect, would give more volume in the tube, and would be lighter. Tiger Metal group sells scraps on ebay, I got a 20" piece of 1" for the C tubes for $20 shipped. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I may also have the S.S. tube used for the spacers bored to a thinner wall thickness as well. Yes, not a hand tool operation but the tubing is heavy with a wall thickness of .070". I want to lighten things up a bit and may have the ID bored to .035" wall thickness. If you do this it would make more since to purchase 1.375 Titanium tube instead and have the OD turned down to 1.350 or 1.345etc. , it would fit in the tube perfect, would give more volume in the tube, and would be lighter. Tiger Metal group sells scraps on ebay, I got a 20" piece of 1" for the C tubes for $20 shipped. Problem with 1.375" tubes is the wall thickness...in order to get a thick enough piece to be able to turn it down you are going to pay $75-100 for the tube and then the cost of turning it, and it is going to be extremely thin. Those that I have seen have a thickness from .025-.06. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 12:11:22 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Problem with 1.375" tubes is the wall thickness...in order to get a thick enough piece to be able to turn it down you are going to pay $75-100 for the tube and then the cost of turning it, and it is going to be extremely thin. Those that I have seen have a thickness from .025-.06. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I may also have the S.S. tube used for the spacers bored to a thinner wall thickness as well. Yes, not a hand tool operation but the tubing is heavy with a wall thickness of .070". I want to lighten things up a bit and may have the ID bored to .035" wall thickness. If you do this it would make more since to purchase 1.375 Titanium tube instead and have the OD turned down to 1.350 or 1.345etc. , it would fit in the tube perfect, would give more volume in the tube, and would be lighter. Tiger Metal group sells scraps on ebay, I got a 20" piece of 1" for the C tubes for $20 shipped. Problem with 1.375" tubes is the wall thickness...in order to get a thick enough piece to be able to turn it down you are going to pay $75-100 for the tube and then the cost of turning it, and it is going to be extremely thin. Those that I have seen have a thickness from .025-.06. You were talking about opening up the ID of the Steel tube, so you would have that cost either way. A $42 foot section of 1.375 .065 thick titanium turned down to 1.350 would be .045", certainly thick enough, then it would fit perfect with a larger ID and lighter, right? The Titanium tube I am using for spacing is .036" on my C build. Do you have your tube available where you can measure the ID at the threaded area? I think it may be greater than 1.375" |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 12:23:44 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, the muzzle brake is the carbon steel one from SDT. The one I'm building is the full length tube, 8.375". Once you add the end caps it reduces the the internal working length by almozt an inch....a 6" tube allow only a couple baffles if the muzzle brake is used, probably 3, depending on how large an expansion chamber you decide on (if you go that route). Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I sent a few emails today to SVR makers...waiting to hear a response. A perfect world for me on thsi build would be a 1.350" OD and a .370" ID.... looking forward to what you find out. I'll report back, and thanks for the schematic....I like that and might put mine in a 6" config. What muzzle brake are you planning (or adaptor from SD)? Yes, the muzzle brake is the carbon steel one from SDT. The one I'm building is the full length tube, 8.375". Once you add the end caps it reduces the the internal working length by almozt an inch....a 6" tube allow only a couple baffles if the muzzle brake is used, probably 3, depending on how large an expansion chamber you decide on (if you go that route). I was thinking if you take the expansion chamber down to 2.5", or even down to 2.75", you could easily get another baffle or two....do you have that SD brake in hand? How long is it? (distance from threads to the tip will help determine EC size). |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 12:24:58 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
snip I don't have anything in hand, waiting on the stamp. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 2:13:51 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryI was thinking if you take the expansion chamber down to 2.5", or even down to 2.75", you could easily get another baffle or two....do you have that SD brake in hand? How long is it? (distance from threads to the tip will help determine EC size). SD brake is around 2.4" end to end. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 3:17:39 PM EDT
[#7]
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SD brake is around 2.4" end to end. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was thinking if you take the expansion chamber down to 2.5", or even down to 2.75", you could easily get another baffle or two....do you have that SD brake in hand? How long is it? (distance from threads to the tip will help determine EC size). SD brake is around 2.4" end to end. How much of that will be in the blast chamber though? One could use their adaptor for the Griffen brake/fh and maybe be able to have a smaller BC. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 5:01:17 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How much of that will be in the blast chamber though? One could use their adaptor for the Griffen brake/fh and maybe be able to have a smaller BC. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I was thinking if you take the expansion chamber down to 2.5", or even down to 2.75", you could easily get another baffle or two....do you have that SD brake in hand? How long is it? (distance from threads to the tip will help determine EC size). SD brake is around 2.4" end to end. How much of that will be in the blast chamber though? One could use their adaptor for the Griffen brake/fh and maybe be able to have a smaller BC. About 1.3-1.4" is in the chamber, I think less than the griffin. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 6:10:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Anyone know when SD will have the steel adapters on their website?
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Posted: 10/24/2014 6:34:51 PM EDT
[#10]
I was told via facebook that they would have them up on last friday. I sent them a PM and was told Wednesday (2 days ago). Still dont see anything either, so who knows.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 7:24:08 PM EDT
[#11]
Posted multiple times already but the solid steel ones later next week, they are made but waiting on coater. The hollow ones are planned but probably a couple weeks out.
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Posted: 10/25/2014 9:49:04 AM EDT
[#12]
Here's a schematic for V2 as of 25 Oct 14. Based on the data ref the muzzle brake I've reduced the expansion chamber to 2.250" vs 3" and added another baffle. I'm also pondering adding a freeze plug baffle into the midldle of the stack.
The S.S. spacer material is in the shop and is getting bored to a .040" sidewall thickness. I also ordered Ti tubing in 1.370 OD and may consider having it turned to a 1.345 OD for a future build. * everything subject to change Also, based on the data of the muzzle brake being 2.4" long I'm assuming that no more than 1" will be in the expansion chamber. I'm basing this on the review of the photo and the assumption that the thread protector length is comparable to the other thread protectors with an OAL of .930". 
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Posted: 10/25/2014 11:24:32 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Posted multiple times already but the solid steel ones later next week, they are made but waiting on coater. The hollow ones are planned but probably a couple weeks out. If you call your order in they are available mine will be here today I will upload pics when I get home tonight. |
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Posted: 10/25/2014 5:03:05 PM EDT
[#14]
Just an update for those of you that might be interested.
Just got back from the shop that's boring the S.S. tube that will be cut to size and serve as spacers. Interestingly the tube itself is about .020" out of round. I had only taken a single measurement whereas I should of taken multiples to see if they all matched. Not an issue for my build as these are non-structural spacers but it might be an issue for those that might be considering using folded tubing for the outer tube by boring the ID to match the baffles. If so, the first step would be to turn the OD until it was round and then bore the ID. This of course would require that material be removed at each step. The point being is to make sure that the side walls are thick enough to allow for this material removal and still have enough thickness to handle the pressures. . |
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Posted: 10/25/2014 5:37:37 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here's a schematic for V2 as of 25 Oct 14. Based on the data ref the muzzle brake I've reduced the expansion chamber to 2.250" vs 3" and added another baffle. I'm also pondering adding a freeze plug baffle into the midldle of the stack. The S.S. spacer material is in the shop and is getting bored to a .040" sidewall thickness. I also ordered Ti tubing in 1.370 OD and may consider having it turned to a 1.345 OD for a future build. * everything subject to change Also, based on the data of the muzzle brake being 2.4" long I'm assuming that no more than 1" will be in the expansion chamber. I'm basing this on the review of the photo and the assumption that the thread protector length is comparable to the other thread protectors with an OAL of .930". <a href="http://s157.photobucket.com/user/pdmundt/media/Slide1_zpscbe99978.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t53/pdmundt/Slide1_zpscbe99978.jpg</a> Formed freeze plugs (m baffles) will be quieter and lighter than those valve retainers. The valve retainer might make a decent blast baffle though. Also, more baffles is not better. Take a look at some cutaways or xrays of quiet commercial cans & base your baffle arrangement on one you like. |
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Posted: 10/25/2014 6:11:04 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Formed freeze plugs (m baffles) will be quieter and lighter than those valve retainers. The valve retainer might make a decent blast baffle though. Also, more baffles is not better. Take a look at some cutaways or xrays of quiet commercial cans & base your baffle arrangement on one you like. I'm sure that you're right. All I'm looking for is for this to take the edge off of supersonic rounds to make it hearing safe at the gun. I have my SWR Trident to use with Subs and that combo is scary quiet, especially with the captured buffer set up. |
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Posted: 10/25/2014 6:49:37 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryFormed freeze plugs (m baffles) will be quieter and lighter than those valve retainers. The valve retainer might make a decent blast baffle though. Also, more baffles is not better. Take a look at some cutaways or xrays of quiet commercial cans & base your baffle arrangement on one you like. Here is the AAC M4-2000 and the Surefire 556 cans. I'm building one similar, the larger 4-5 chamber designs are more traditional but the M4-2000 was introduced and was one of the best performing cans, it had a tight vented stack, the 308 cans are starting to get this (SDN-6) also. It is convenient to build this way because the baffles stack at .425 already so the layout would be similar to a M4-2000. I was going to open the vents to 2.4mm. There cans appear to have more 2-5 (?) vents at 2-3mm. The retainers kind of just depend on the individual retainer, I need to weight them side by side by the retainers I have so far are between 14.3-14.9 grams, with the spacer, they are also hardened steel and coated titanium so I think they will hold up better. The ones with the lower neck heights look like they would perform better by allowing tighter stacking. 
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Posted: 10/25/2014 7:04:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here is the AAC M4-2000 and the Surefire 556 cans. I'm building one similar, the larger 4-5 chamber designs are more traditional but the M4-2000 was introduced and was one of the best performing cans, it had a tight vented stack, the 308 cans are starting to get this (SDN-6) also. It is convenient to build this way because the baffles stack at .425 already so the layout would be similar to a M4-2000. I was going to open the vents to 2.4mm. There cans appear to have more 2-5 (?) vents at 2-3mm. The retainers kind of just depend on the individual retainer, I need to weight them side by side by the retainers I have so far are between 14.3-14.9 grams, with the spacer, they are also hardened steel and coated titanium so I think they will hold up better. The ones with the lower neck heights look like they would perform better by allowing tighter stacking. http://i62.tinypic.com/vifh50.jpg http://i61.tinypic.com/2d934zl.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Formed freeze plugs (m baffles) will be quieter and lighter than those valve retainers. The valve retainer might make a decent blast baffle though. Also, more baffles is not better. Take a look at some cutaways or xrays of quiet commercial cans & base your baffle arrangement on one you like. Here is the AAC M4-2000 and the Surefire 556 cans. I'm building one similar, the larger 4-5 chamber designs are more traditional but the M4-2000 was introduced and was one of the best performing cans, it had a tight vented stack, the 308 cans are starting to get this (SDN-6) also. It is convenient to build this way because the baffles stack at .425 already so the layout would be similar to a M4-2000. I was going to open the vents to 2.4mm. There cans appear to have more 2-5 (?) vents at 2-3mm. The retainers kind of just depend on the individual retainer, I need to weight them side by side by the retainers I have so far are between 14.3-14.9 grams, with the spacer, they are also hardened steel and coated titanium so I think they will hold up better. The ones with the lower neck heights look like they would perform better by allowing tighter stacking. http://i62.tinypic.com/vifh50.jpg http://i61.tinypic.com/2d934zl.jpg True, I didn't think of the AAC cans (which is funny, since I have an SDN-6) but I didn't think their baffles were vented. I know the SDN-6 has 7 baffles. Another interesting feature they use is non-symmetrical holes in the baffles. If you have one, look through & you'll see they are all sort of uneven pentagons rather than round. It would be pretty easy to replicate with a file. |
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Posted: 10/25/2014 9:52:42 PM EDT
[#19]
The new steel end caps also the muzzle brake they weigh in at 98.5 grams not sure how much of a difference this is from the aluminum but if I had to guess it would be alot.
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Posted: 10/25/2014 10:00:39 PM EDT
[#20]
First of all thanks! I'm guessing these are the unfished carbon steel (would explan why you go them sooner). Can you take more pictures please, from different angles of both.
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Posted: 10/25/2014 10:18:45 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
First of all thanks! I'm guessing these are the unfished carbon steel (would explan why you go them sooner). Can you take more pictures please, from different angles of both. One more pic showing it from the top 
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Posted: 10/25/2014 10:32:46 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The new steel end caps also the muzzle brake they weigh in at 98.5 grams not sure how much of a difference this is from the aluminum but if I had to guess it would be alot. http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/C4324073-74F9-4A9D-BC31-2DACE7A0B0D8.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/14DF89BA-A64B-402A-B2D0-2ADD429FB2F1.jpg Are these up on the website yet? |
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Posted: 10/25/2014 10:42:46 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The new steel end caps also the muzzle brake they weigh in at 98.5 grams not sure how much of a difference this is from the aluminum but if I had to guess it would be alot. http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/C4324073-74F9-4A9D-BC31-2DACE7A0B0D8.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/14DF89BA-A64B-402A-B2D0-2ADD429FB2F1.jpg Can you please give me a measurement of the length of the brake in font of the end cap? |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 7:21:28 AM EDT
[#24]
Thanks, what about the new steel end cap you mentioned?
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Posted: 10/26/2014 12:12:54 PM EDT
[#25]
If you make one of these, what part gets engraved?
How do you clean it? I am thinking about building one in 22lr Does anyone know the outside diameter of the "Ultimate C Bundle" tube? |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 12:18:56 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you make one of these, what part gets engraved? How do you clean it? I am thinking about building one in 22lr |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 12:20:46 PM EDT
[#27]
Anyone check out the tubing at allmetalsinc.com
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Posted: 10/26/2014 2:11:54 PM EDT
[#28]
The new steel caps, are they compatible with the Griffin brake or just the SD one?
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Posted: 10/26/2014 2:31:56 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The new steel caps, are they compatible with the Griffin brake or just the SD one? The SD Adapters have were stainless steel before, they were just made in carbon steel to be coated black. The Griffin adaptors are Aluminum, but they have produced them in carbon black and were shipped to a coater and they will be back soon or are already back and expected to be listed on their website this week. |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 2:50:25 PM EDT
[#30]
Yes, yes, yes!
I have two builds in progress. One for me and one for a friend of mine. Both of us have the Form 1's back, already got the stainless tubes, Griffin brakes, and the aluminum caps. I was really apprehensive on mine and want to use a steel mount as mine is going on a SBR and I'd rather not launch it down range after all my effort. |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 2:58:55 PM EDT
[#31]
Now where are the stainless steel freeze plugs in the proper size? Stainless gets real hard when heated so a light heat treat may make for a long lasting option with minimal fuss. This thread and the one on the weld up can on ST got me off my butt to finish a form 1. Eform was paid for and pending on the 20th. I have no idea if I will do this type of set up, or just buy a lathe a year from now, but I wanted to get the form done before the end of the year. Registered as 7.62mm, and 12" long not that I will be building a foot long suppressor, but I wont worry if it is 11.01" when finished.
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Posted: 10/26/2014 4:50:04 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yes, yes, yes! I have two builds in progress. One for me and one for a friend of mine. Both of us have the Form 1's back, already got the stainless tubes, Griffin brakes, and the aluminum caps. I was really apprehensive on mine and want to use a steel mount as mine is going on a SBR and I'd rather not launch it down range after all my effort. |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 5:06:27 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just a quick question. When did you submit your form 1? This is my first one, and I submitted it on the 16th. Online it shows submitted/processing and has a, ID number and a permit number assigned, but no internal control number or finalized date. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Yes, yes, yes! I have two builds in progress. One for me and one for a friend of mine. Both of us have the Form 1's back, already got the stainless tubes, Griffin brakes, and the aluminum caps. I was really apprehensive on mine and want to use a steel mount as mine is going on a SBR and I'd rather not launch it down range after all my effort. ETA: My last form was approved in 35 days...
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Posted: 10/26/2014 5:19:57 PM EDT
[#34]
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Can you please give me a measurement of the length of the brake in font of the end cap? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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The new steel end caps also the muzzle brake they weigh in at 98.5 grams not sure how much of a difference this is from the aluminum but if I had to guess it would be alot. http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/C4324073-74F9-4A9D-BC31-2DACE7A0B0D8.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/14DF89BA-A64B-402A-B2D0-2ADD429FB2F1.jpg Can you please give me a measurement of the length of the brake in font of the end cap? 1.277 
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Posted: 10/26/2014 5:26:11 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The new steel end caps also the muzzle brake they weigh in at 98.5 grams not sure how much of a difference this is from the aluminum but if I had to guess it would be alot. http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/C4324073-74F9-4A9D-BC31-2DACE7A0B0D8.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/14DF89BA-A64B-402A-B2D0-2ADD429FB2F1.jpg That is 3.4 ounces, the aluminum ones are 2.3 |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 6:44:44 PM EDT
[#36]
I was early last year for both of us. Had them for a while. Individual F1 paper type file.
We've been collectively going over options for the builds when the whole SD flashlight thing came around. The stainless tubes from Apogee can be gotten in custom lengths, so we ordered up to match our build lengths. I have 8 titanium racing valves that will be cut and drilled to make a couple baffles and then finish with freeze plugs. Picked them up used on ebay for cheap. This winter I'll spend some funds and do a couple more. Specifically an aluminum c cell size 22lr can 5.5 inches long. I keep going back and forth between trying my hand at K baffles or just try a delrin or aluminum mono core. |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 7:25:28 PM EDT
[#37]
The pics and info in this thread are great! I've been following this thread and many other builds for some time and the steel Griffin setup looks like the way to go for those who want a semi QD setup. I recently saw this and it peaked my interest as I would ideally like to have a suppressor compatible with my 51t flash hiders enabling any easy move between rigs. I talked to the seller and he says he got it as a display piece by AAC. Has anyone seen one before? Is it just an airsoft POS? In the perfect world it would be legit and all a form 1 compliant person/trust would have to do is put there own baffles and spacers in. The reason I came across it is ideally I'd like to source just the 51t ratchet mount and make my own form 1 suppressor using AAC's mount.
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Posted: 10/26/2014 7:31:02 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The pics and info in this thread are great! I've been following this thread and many other builds for some time and the steel Griffin setup looks like the way to go for those who want a semi QD setup. I recently saw this and it peaked my interest as I would ideally like to have a suppressor compatible with my 51t flash hiders enabling any easy move between rigs. I talked to the seller and he says he got it as a display piece by AAC. Has anyone seen one before? Is it just an airsoft POS? In the perfect world it would be legit and all a form 1 compliant person/trust would have to do is put there own baffles and spacers in. The reason I came across it is ideally I'd like to source just the 51t ratchet mount and make my own form 1 suppressor using AAC's mount. |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 7:43:41 PM EDT
[#39]
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With the solvent trap to which you linked being all aluminum, it would probably blow apart the first time you shot with it on a centerfire 5.56/7.62 rifle... Couldn't agree more. Somehow I missed the "all aluminum construction" part of the listing.
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Posted: 10/26/2014 9:51:18 PM EDT
[#40]
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Couldn't agree more. Somehow I missed the "all aluminum construction" part of the listing.
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With the solvent trap to which you linked being all aluminum, it would probably blow apart the first time you shot with it on a centerfire 5.56/7.62 rifle... Couldn't agree more. Somehow I missed the "all aluminum construction" part of the listing.
And I wouldn't dare own that without an approved F1 in hand..... |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 7:26:09 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
1.277 http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/A0215E86-E23E-4FF0-AA80-77D7681E3597.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/B03DBE91-0AA9-42F0-86B2-2DE279518413.jpg http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g119/tgp8282/Mobile%20Uploads/A3F90DD4-5EC2-4BA5-BF97-0D461A9D0738.jpg Thank you Sir. |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 8:35:10 AM EDT
[#42]
So what are y'all using for end caps? The one on sdtac is for an external thread tube.
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Posted: 10/27/2014 8:45:54 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So what are y'all using for end caps? The one on sdtac is for an external thread tube. SDTA has a center marked end cap for internal threaded tube. Look at the options under the d cell rear thread protector. |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 8:46:50 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So what are y'all using for end caps? The one on sdtac is for an external thread tube. Muzzle end? SD has the end cap for internal as well. Here The one that's labled "center spot marked" |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 8:53:52 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So what are y'all using for end caps? The one on sdtac is for an external thread tube. This is the holdup for most of us. Solid Aluminum ones are out now, they are solid take up tube space not ideal by any means. Solid Steel ones were produced by SD are are done (in carbon steel to be coated) and either already coated and either already back or will be soon, they are solid and super heavy. SD is producing thinner ones in the future, I had sent a basic design to them about a week ago and he is saying he will make them (end machine off like the ones posted above, longer threads, hollow, center marked). I have had the aluminum ones hollowed out by a 3rd party. The "Bust a Caps" are steel, would certainly be unique, only 1.9oz the point is your center mark, you would be drilling out a little bit of weight also. I am waiting on SD but if not I would run these. 
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Posted: 10/27/2014 9:48:49 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Muzzle end? SD has the end cap for internal as well. Here The one that's labled "center spot marked" Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So what are y'all using for end caps? The one on sdtac is for an external thread tube. Muzzle end? SD has the end cap for internal as well. Here The one that's labled "center spot marked" ty. |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 12:39:49 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is the holdup for most of us. Solid Aluminum ones are out now, they are solid take up tube space not ideal by any means. Solid Steel ones were produced by SD are are done (in carbon steel to be coated) and either already coated and either already back or will be soon, they are solid and super heavy. SD is producing thinner ones in the future, I had sent a basic design to them about a week ago and he is saying he will make them (end machine off like the ones posted above, longer threads, hollow, center marked). I have had the aluminum ones hollowed out by a 3rd party. The "Bust a Caps" are steel, would certainly be unique, only 1.9oz the point is your center mark, you would be drilling out a little bit of weight also. I am waiting on SD but if not I would run these. http://images.ecwid.com/images/884066/26440961.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So what are y'all using for end caps? The one on sdtac is for an external thread tube. This is the holdup for most of us. Solid Aluminum ones are out now, they are solid take up tube space not ideal by any means. Solid Steel ones were produced by SD are are done (in carbon steel to be coated) and either already coated and either already back or will be soon, they are solid and super heavy. SD is producing thinner ones in the future, I had sent a basic design to them about a week ago and he is saying he will make them (end machine off like the ones posted above, longer threads, hollow, center marked). I have had the aluminum ones hollowed out by a 3rd party. The "Bust a Caps" are steel, would certainly be unique, only 1.9oz the point is your center mark, you would be drilling out a little bit of weight also. I am waiting on SD but if not I would run these. http://images.ecwid.com/images/884066/26440961.jpg Just to clarify, you're saying the only end caps available as of now are the Al versions. So we would have to build a stainless suppressor with stainless freeze plugs, but would have to have aluminum end caps and threads. I would much rather wait for them to come out with the steel versions of the end caps and run those. Is there any problems with running aluminum plugs other than galling between the stainless/aluminum? Is there significant pressure placed on the end caps? Thanks. |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 2:43:00 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just to clarify, you're saying the only end caps available as of now are the Al versions. So we would have to build a stainless suppressor with stainless freeze plugs, but would have to have aluminum end caps and threads. I would much rather wait for them to come out with the steel versions of the end caps and run those. Is there any problems with running aluminum plugs other than galling between the stainless/aluminum? Is there significant pressure placed on the end caps? Thanks. Not really, you would have to have stainless freeze plugs made, freeze plugs you have seen in this thread are steel. It is a matter of opinion, as the Aluminum end caps are almost a 1" thick, the SD guy shoots his on up to 300mag, there are commercial cans like the SilencerCo Harvester 308 that are aluminum body out there (that specific ones does not support more than 1 308 (20rd) or 5.56 (30rd) mag dump. In other countries aluminum body cans are pretty common. Fairly thin steel is what most of us would prefer. SD's own adapter was made previously in SS and you can still order it this way. They did a run of center marked end caps, SD adapters, Griffin Adapters, 1/2 and 5/8 adapters in carbon steel to be coated, just like the aluminum ones with the rear overhang cut off. The SD and Griffin adapters because they have large threaded area already this is the design (post in this thread) is you will continue to see. The End caps, 1/2x28, and 5/8x24 adapters will be hollowed in the future. You will see this explode soon, SD is open to thinner steel tubes, and titanium parts, and if they don't do them, someone else will. |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 2:59:13 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not really, you would have to have stainless freeze plugs made, freeze plugs you have seen in this thread are steel. It is a matter of opinion, as the Aluminum end caps are almost a 1" thick, the SD guy shoots his on up to 300mag, there are commercial cans like the SilencerCo Harvester 308 that are aluminum body out there (that specific ones does not support more than 1 308 (20rd) or 5.56 (30rd) mag dump. In other countries aluminum body cans are pretty common. Fairly thin steel is what most of us would prefer. SD's own adapter was made previously in SS and you can still order it this way. They did a run of center marked end caps, SD adapters, Griffin Adapters, 1/2 and 5/8 adapters in carbon steel to be coated, just like the aluminum ones with the rear overhang cut off. The SD and Griffin adapters because they have large threaded area already this is the design (post in this thread) is you will continue to see. The End caps, 1/2x28, and 5/8x24 adapters will be hollowed in the future. You will see this explode soon, SD is open to thinner steel tubes, and titanium parts, and if they don't do them, someone else will. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just to clarify, you're saying the only end caps available as of now are the Al versions. So we would have to build a stainless suppressor with stainless freeze plugs, but would have to have aluminum end caps and threads. I would much rather wait for them to come out with the steel versions of the end caps and run those. Is there any problems with running aluminum plugs other than galling between the stainless/aluminum? Is there significant pressure placed on the end caps? Thanks. Not really, you would have to have stainless freeze plugs made, freeze plugs you have seen in this thread are steel. It is a matter of opinion, as the Aluminum end caps are almost a 1" thick, the SD guy shoots his on up to 300mag, there are commercial cans like the SilencerCo Harvester 308 that are aluminum body out there (that specific ones does not support more than 1 308 (20rd) or 5.56 (30rd) mag dump. In other countries aluminum body cans are pretty common. Fairly thin steel is what most of us would prefer. SD's own adapter was made previously in SS and you can still order it this way. They did a run of center marked end caps, SD adapters, Griffin Adapters, 1/2 and 5/8 adapters in carbon steel to be coated, just like the aluminum ones with the rear overhang cut off. The SD and Griffin adapters because they have large threaded area already this is the design (post in this thread) is you will continue to see. The End caps, 1/2x28, and 5/8x24 adapters will be hollowed in the future. You will see this explode soon, SD is open to thinner steel tubes, and titanium parts, and if they don't do them, someone else will. I tend to agree. The advent of the E form 1 has really changed the dynamic. If SD assembled a suite of quality parts for sale, while still staying legal, I'm sure he'd sell a boat load. |
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Posted: 10/27/2014 3:57:16 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not really, you would have to have stainless freeze plugs made, freeze plugs you have seen in this thread are steel. It is a matter of opinion, as the Aluminum end caps are almost a 1" thick, the SD guy shoots his on up to 300mag, there are commercial cans like the SilencerCo Harvester 308 that are aluminum body out there (that specific ones does not support more than 1 308 (20rd) or 5.56 (30rd) mag dump. In other countries aluminum body cans are pretty common. Fairly thin steel is what most of us would prefer. SD's own adapter was made previously in SS and you can still order it this way. They did a run of center marked end caps, SD adapters, Griffin Adapters, 1/2 and 5/8 adapters in carbon steel to be coated, just like the aluminum ones with the rear overhang cut off. The SD and Griffin adapters because they have large threaded area already this is the design (post in this thread) is you will continue to see. The End caps, 1/2x28, and 5/8x24 adapters will be hollowed in the future. You will see this explode soon, SD is open to thinner steel tubes, and titanium parts, and if they don't do them, someone else will. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just to clarify, you're saying the only end caps available as of now are the Al versions. So we would have to build a stainless suppressor with stainless freeze plugs, but would have to have aluminum end caps and threads. I would much rather wait for them to come out with the steel versions of the end caps and run those. Is there any problems with running aluminum plugs other than galling between the stainless/aluminum? Is there significant pressure placed on the end caps? Thanks. Not really, you would have to have stainless freeze plugs made, freeze plugs you have seen in this thread are steel. It is a matter of opinion, as the Aluminum end caps are almost a 1" thick, the SD guy shoots his on up to 300mag, there are commercial cans like the SilencerCo Harvester 308 that are aluminum body out there (that specific ones does not support more than 1 308 (20rd) or 5.56 (30rd) mag dump. In other countries aluminum body cans are pretty common. Fairly thin steel is what most of us would prefer. SD's own adapter was made previously in SS and you can still order it this way. They did a run of center marked end caps, SD adapters, Griffin Adapters, 1/2 and 5/8 adapters in carbon steel to be coated, just like the aluminum ones with the rear overhang cut off. The SD and Griffin adapters because they have large threaded area already this is the design (post in this thread) is you will continue to see. The End caps, 1/2x28, and 5/8x24 adapters will be hollowed in the future. You will see this explode soon, SD is open to thinner steel tubes, and titanium parts, and if they don't do them, someone else will. Thanks for your reply, I didn't realize the Harvester is aluminum body! I actually prefer the freeze plugs to be steel so they can be welded easily (I thought they were stainless). Another question, do you know of any end cap that enables you to thread onto the Silencerco Trifecta mount (for the specwar)? I would LOVE to have cross platform compatibility without having to ask ANOTHER favor from my machining buddy. haha.. Thanks |
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