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Posted: 11/7/2014 11:44:51 PM EDT
[#1]
Apogee Ti confirmed seamless grade 9.
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Posted: 11/8/2014 12:04:56 AM EDT
[#2]
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Apogee Ti confirmed seamless grade 9. Can you confirm the OD and ID are correct, Seamless grade 9 is not commercially available in the in size that would make producing that tube possible. It is to cheap to be made from Bar, that would leave it being sourced from China maybe. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 12:46:44 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
1st 3" and last .9" stays at 1.500", then turn the rest to OD of 1.450", leaving a wall thickness of .050" in the turned down portion. I like the look to. Reminds me of one of those funky Krink cans. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
How did you have him cut it? As in what OD's and for what lengths. I like the look! 1st 3" and last .9" stays at 1.500", then turn the rest to OD of 1.450", leaving a wall thickness of .050" in the turned down portion. I like the look to. Reminds me of one of those funky Krink cans. Did you turn the 1.550" areas to 1.500" ? I just noticed the bolded area... That is pretty thin in the threaded area by the blast chamber if you did get it turned to 1.500 |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 7:33:35 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you turn the 1.550" areas to 1.500" ? I just noticed the bolded area... That is pretty thin in the threaded area by the blast chamber if you did get it turned to 1.500 We had already discussed in the other thread. My mistake on the numbers. I left the first 3" and last .9" at the original OD, 1.550" and then had the middle section turned. Note that I had originally planned for a larger blast chamber of 3" but instead opted for 2.250" as the ST muzzle brake only protudes by about an inch into the tube. So the original OD extends past the blast chamber by .750". 
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Posted: 11/11/2014 8:53:43 AM EDT
[#5]
Do you think that thickness is necessary in the blast chamber or it coul be all turned down to the same OD of .065 or so? I only ask because I've seen a majority of the cans in silencertalk running .065 wall and cone baffles. Between the blast chamber spacer and the walls of the freeze plugs we are essentially doubling the wall thickness anyways. I get it that it's not continuous like the tube but if most form 1 suppressor that people are making are.065 wall how would this be any different?
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Posted: 11/11/2014 9:33:38 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Do you think that thickness is necessary in the blast chamber or it coul be all turned down to the same OD of .065 or so? I only ask because I've seen a majority of the cans in silencertalk running .065 wall and cone baffles. Between the blast chamber spacer and the walls of the freeze plugs we are essentially doubling the wall thickness anyways. I get it that it's not continuous like the tube but if most form 1 suppressor that people are making are.065 wall how would this be any different? The .065" would be fine everywhere, OPS cans are .049 there have been other form 1 can down to .37 in steel. On the flip side there are .1" commercial cans also. Nothing wrong with having an overbuild can, we are all making choices on toughness vs weight. The various baffle solution do add strength, if you have a .065 wall and a .065 spacer it is not the equivalent of having a single piece .13", it is somewhere in between. |
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Posted: 11/12/2014 7:15:39 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've heard pretty much the same thing about ALL sub-$1000 setups though. I'm planning on testing mine with the apps then against a commercial can for a frame of reference. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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The iPhone mic and apps are not reliable high enough to be of much use above 100-110 dB. The most highly rated apps are good for 116 to 130 dB. But most apps say that the hardware isn't that good (but do not specify which iPhone they tested). I've heard pretty much the same thing about ALL sub-$1000 setups though. I'm planning on testing mine with the apps then against a commercial can for a frame of reference. I just downloaded SPLnFFT and will be on the range this morning. I'll run a 7.5" 300AAC shooting 208gr Subsonics and will use my 9mm SWR Trident can. I believe that specs at the ear, using this can and shooting 9mm subs, is around 130db. Be interesting see what the app shows. The app does seem to top out at 130 so we'll see if it has any utility. |
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Posted: 11/14/2014 10:49:45 AM EDT
[#8]
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Posted: 11/14/2014 10:00:52 PM EDT
[#9]
I see the rear thread protectors in carbon steel on sdtactical, but I don't see a steel cap that is just center marked, to use on the end, only aluminum. Am I missing something?
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Posted: 11/14/2014 10:11:01 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I see the rear thread protectors in carbon steel on sdtactical, but I don't see a steel cap that is just center marked, to use on the end, only aluminum. Am I missing something? They are in the works should be posted up next week or so from what I was told. |
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Posted: 11/14/2014 10:15:44 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They are in the works should be posted up next week or so from what I was told. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I see the rear thread protectors in carbon steel on sdtactical, but I don't see a steel cap that is just center marked, to use on the end, only aluminum. Am I missing something? They are in the works should be posted up next week or so from what I was told. Gotcha. Thanks. I was just curious since they have steel caps threaded for a barrel, but no steel caps just center marked. I'll keep an eye open. |
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Posted: 11/14/2014 10:21:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Does anyone have any thoughts on the SD threaded brake vs the Griffin brakes?
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Posted: 11/15/2014 10:33:38 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Gotcha. Thanks. I was just curious since they have steel caps threaded for a barrel, but no steel caps just center marked. I'll keep an eye open. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I see the rear thread protectors in carbon steel on sdtactical, but I don't see a steel cap that is just center marked, to use on the end, only aluminum. Am I missing something? They are in the works should be posted up next week or so from what I was told. Gotcha. Thanks. I was just curious since they have steel caps threaded for a barrel, but no steel caps just center marked. I'll keep an eye open. My machinist is making these now, out of a better material (SS), hollow so they are lower weight and the end cap acts as a extra baffle, they are also cheaper, $35 shipped. Details on how to order are in the other thread. On the SDTA I spoke to him about designs and he was going to release a solid one in regular carbon steel ((which would be a really bad heavy choice) and he was going to produce a thin one like the design I sent him eventually. Not sure which one he is releasing soon, I gave up and sent the same design to someone else. The first version (that I pictured) weighs about the same as the solid aluminum one, but the design was updated this week to be thinner. |
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Posted: 11/15/2014 2:47:08 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My machinist is making these now, out of a better material (SS), hollow so they are lower weight and the end cap acts as a extra baffle, they are also cheaper, $35 shipped. Details on how to order are in the other thread. On the SDTA I spoke to him about designs and he was going to release a solid one in regular carbon steel ((which would be a really bad heavy choice) and he was going to produce a thin one like the design I sent him eventually. Not sure which one he is releasing soon, I gave up and sent the same design to someone else. The first version (that I pictured) weighs about the same as the solid aluminum one, but the design was updated this week to be thinner. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I see the rear thread protectors in carbon steel on sdtactical, but I don't see a steel cap that is just center marked, to use on the end, only aluminum. Am I missing something? They are in the works should be posted up next week or so from what I was told. Gotcha. Thanks. I was just curious since they have steel caps threaded for a barrel, but no steel caps just center marked. I'll keep an eye open. My machinist is making these now, out of a better material (SS), hollow so they are lower weight and the end cap acts as a extra baffle, they are also cheaper, $35 shipped. Details on how to order are in the other thread. On the SDTA I spoke to him about designs and he was going to release a solid one in regular carbon steel ((which would be a really bad heavy choice) and he was going to produce a thin one like the design I sent him eventually. Not sure which one he is releasing soon, I gave up and sent the same design to someone else. The first version (that I pictured) weighs about the same as the solid aluminum one, but the design was updated this week to be thinner. I'll go through the other thread and find the info. Thanks for letting me know. |
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Posted: 11/15/2014 3:37:24 PM EDT
[#15]
Anyone have any thoughts on the SD threaded muzzle brake vs the Griffin?
The SD is half the price of a Griffin. Why should I choose the Griffin?
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Posted: 11/15/2014 3:46:37 PM EDT
[#16]
I asked the same question. I guess it mostly comes down to how it looks. I decided that I did not want a brake because they are so loud. I decided to do the Griffin Taper Mount Flash hider or the Flash Comp. Either will be much quieter than a regular Brake. Supposedly, the Griffin Threaded adapters in steel will be available soon.
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Posted: 11/15/2014 5:41:56 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone have any thoughts on the SD threaded muzzle brake vs the Griffin? The SD is half the price of a Griffin. Why should I choose the Griffin? I went with the SDT brake. The can that I built will be dedicated to a specific rifle and the can will always be mounted, hence I'm not using the Brake as such, but rather to serve as blast baffles. |
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Posted: 11/15/2014 6:03:30 PM EDT
[#18]
I have 2 rifles as it is and likely various others in the future.
As such I went with the SD brake due to cost but now I'm second guessing myself. I'm mildly concerned of the possibility of SD discontinuing their brake. If that happened I'd have to get one custom made if I needed one. It's machining also isn't the cleanest but reflects the price.
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Posted: 11/16/2014 1:37:55 AM EDT
[#19]
Is there any issue using the steel endcaps with a titanium tube? I was thinking of going with the Apogee Titanium tube, with the FP baffles, and also using a 1.375 OD titanium tube off of Ebay for the spacer material. This should lighten things up a bit, but not sure on the steel threading into titanium. Also, will a normal pipe cutter work fine on titanium?
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Posted: 11/16/2014 9:56:19 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there any issue using the steel endcaps with a titanium tube? I was thinking of going with the Apogee Titanium tube, with the FP baffles, and also using a 1.375 OD titanium tube off of Ebay for the spacer material. This should lighten things up a bit, but not sure on the steel threading into titanium. Also, will a normal pipe cutter work fine on titanium? No issues. The reason I did not pursue this is Ti bar is much more expensive than Steel bar, on the the Tube itself there is less wasted material and less machine work, it is more efficient to do it that way. On the spacer material you would have to have the Ti tube used for spacer turned down by a machinist (if the apogee tube is actually 1.350). No one really knows what the Apogee tube diminsions are, what is listed on their website is not correct, those would be way over the 7oz listed. I would wait and see that the tube actually is. |
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Posted: 11/17/2014 5:39:53 PM EDT
[#21]
A heads up to those looking for TI VRs. You can get used ones on ebay for much cheaper than $15. Like $6-8 a piece. Used also means its already heat "treated," somewhat lol. :D I don't see any downside on using used ones.
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Posted: 11/19/2014 4:58:10 AM EDT
[#22]
Hey Shooters, this is Darrell from SDTA here. I want to say thank you for your support and business. If you have looked at our web site you will see we give a lot of time and money back to our Nations warfighters. I started a program called Weapons4 Warriors to give weapons to veterans. Your support makes this happen. I salute and thank you.
Now for the fun stuff, I have noticed there is a lot of Preppers and Machinists making the patent pending parts I designed. Rather than fight them (for now) I am relying the gun guys to support me. We work very hard to meet your needs and are doing our best to keep the solvent traps that can be converted into suppressors (with proper tax stamp) affordable. |
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Posted: 11/19/2014 4:59:27 AM EDT
[#23]
-Thinner thread protectors in aluminum and carbon steel. They will be bored out to lighten them up yet maintain the necessary strength and integrity to be safe. *within two weeks
-Turned down carbon steel tubes to lighten them up. These will be a option. *within two weeks -New hammered look powder coat in low gloss black , snow camo and desert camo. *within two weeks -TITANIUM TUBES in 6"and 8". I made some proofs yesterday and they turned out excellent! I made a large order of tubing and they are enroute. A complete 6" with a aluminum SDTA muzzle brake adapter, aluminum end and 6 freeze plugs weighed 13.3 oz. That is amazing! As soon as we get the tubes and the machines clear up these will hit production. * around two weeks call to be put on the list. -TITANIUM thread protectors and adapters. This doesn't exactly fit my idea of affordable but at $150 a foot plus shipping for the bar stock. I will do the best I can to keep the price of a TI suppressor under $200 plus the tax stamp. I do not have these drawn or proven yet but it is on the top of my list. *2-4 weeks Please inform us of your needs. If a bunch of enthusiasts need a product we will do what we can to make it happen. I believe we have the best customer service and expedited shipping. I am a Type 7 class 2 SOT. That means I can legally manufacturer, build and test our products. I make what I use. My gear is worked very hard and must be functional at all times. I don't make products that I will not use. I don't get much free time but I will stop back when I can. Thank you, Darrell |
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Posted: 11/19/2014 6:54:08 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
-Thinner thread protectors in aluminum and carbon steel. They will be bored out to lighten them up yet maintain the necessary strength and integrity to be safe. *within two weeks -Turned down carbon steel tubes to lighten them up. These will be a option. *within two weeks -New hammered look powder coat in low gloss black , snow camo and desert camo. *within two weeks -TITANIUM TUBES in 6"and 8". I made some proofs yesterday and they turned out excellent! I made a large order of tubing and they are enroute. A complete 6" with a aluminum SDTA muzzle brake adapter, aluminum end and 6 freeze plugs weighed 13.3 oz. That is amazing! As soon as we get the tubes and the machines clear up these will hit production. * around two weeks call to be put on the list. -TITANIUM thread protectors and adapters. This doesn't exactly fit my idea of affordable but at $150 a foot plus shipping for the bar stock. I will do the best I can to keep the price of a TI suppressor under $200 plus the tax stamp. I do not have these drawn or proven yet but it is on the top of my list. *2-4 weeks Please inform us of your needs. If a bunch of enthusiasts need a product we will do what we can to make it happen. I believe we have the best customer service and expedited shipping. I am a Type 7 class 2 SOT. That means I can legally manufacturer, build and test our products. I make what I use. My gear is worked very hard and must be functional at all times. I don't make products that I will not use. I don't get much free time but I will stop back when I can. Thank you, Darrell Darrell, thank you for taking the time not only change your product but to drop by to inform us about the changes. The one thing I didn't see above, was the desire for better threads, rather than continuing to use maglight threads. |
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Posted: 11/19/2014 10:09:49 AM EDT
[#25]
Darrell, thanks for taking the time to write.
I'm wondering if you can't make custom solvent trap plugs in lieu of the freeze plugs? Something like this idea that was posted in the other thread, in SS or Ti? 
Quote HistoryQuoted:
-Thinner thread protectors in aluminum and carbon steel. They will be bored out to lighten them up yet maintain the necessary strength and integrity to be safe. *within two weeks -Turned down carbon steel tubes to lighten them up. These will be a option. *within two weeks -New hammered look powder coat in low gloss black , snow camo and desert camo. *within two weeks -TITANIUM TUBES in 6"and 8". I made some proofs yesterday and they turned out excellent! I made a large order of tubing and they are enroute. A complete 6" with a aluminum SDTA muzzle brake adapter, aluminum end and 6 freeze plugs weighed 13.3 oz. That is amazing! As soon as we get the tubes and the machines clear up these will hit production. * around two weeks call to be put on the list. -TITANIUM thread protectors and adapters. This doesn't exactly fit my idea of affordable but at $150 a foot plus shipping for the bar stock. I will do the best I can to keep the price of a TI suppressor under $200 plus the tax stamp. I do not have these drawn or proven yet but it is on the top of my list. *2-4 weeks Please inform us of your needs. If a bunch of enthusiasts need a product we will do what we can to make it happen. I believe we have the best customer service and expedited shipping. I am a Type 7 class 2 SOT. That means I can legally manufacturer, build and test our products. I make what I use. My gear is worked very hard and must be functional at all times. I don't make products that I will not use. I don't get much free time but I will stop back when I can. Thank you, Darrell |
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Posted: 11/19/2014 12:55:36 PM EDT
[#26]
Really hope someone makes these solvent trap plugs
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Posted: 11/19/2014 1:50:55 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Really hope someone makes these solvent trap plugs I thought those were small part cleaning cups that conveniently fit into the trap for storage. |
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Posted: 11/19/2014 5:18:05 PM EDT
[#28]
I like shot glass better, pun intended. It can also be sauce cup for restaurants. Or candle holders... Mini cupcake templates... I see billions of different usage for them.
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Posted: 11/19/2014 7:07:00 PM EDT
[#29]
for xmas I want to get my daughter a special HD cake decorator....
1.5" OD/ 1.375" ID 24tpi threaded tube with caps (one solid for rear for storage but center punched in case she needs a replacement and one with small hole) and a stack of special 8-10 SS nozzles with .1" hole that I can open if she wants different beads. Of course the rear cap would be removed for decorating and the front cap with hole would just fit the decorating nozzle with just the tip of the nozzle sticking out... I would make her a special plunger out of PVC to push the icing out the nozzle. Those cones look exactly like what I am looking for... needed asap for her xmas present 
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Posted: 11/19/2014 7:26:39 PM EDT
[#30]
Have anyone thought about RC mufflers? I am going to start a new hobby with gas RC engines. :D
http://www.centuryhelimedia.com/images/categories/es_gas.jpg http://www.helicoptergamesale.com/images/big/50-Class-Nitro-Gas-RC-Helicopter-Engine-Muffler.jpg http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-silencer-Muffler-for-Gas-Engine-Pipe-rc-boat-/150830773384?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231e36f488 |
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Posted: 12/7/2014 11:03:24 PM EDT
[#31]
F1 was approved today and got back a little bit ago from shaking out the SD tactical suppressor I built.
Bottom Line: This thing is extraordinary. The can is built as a .30 cal and shot it today on my 300AAC 7.5" with both subs ad supers. Around 200 rounds thru it. I went with a 12 baffle setup and hands down it's quieter than my SWR Trident. A buddy and I shot side by side, him with the Trident mounted and me using the F1 can. The F1 can was noticeably quieter than the Trident. This was the consensus 4 guys that were observing as well. Sorry no video but will recreate and take one later this week. It really blew me away, not only the subs but also the supersonic 147's. Easily hearing safe...my M42K is louder on a 10" shooting 193 than this is shooting 147s and the M42k is hearing safe. Really happy and now a little pissed that I bought a SDN-6 a few months ago....there's really no need as far as I can tell for the SDN-6 though it is a bit lighter than this. My F1 can weighs in at 26 oz even with everything (no muzzle brake but the adapter). Some pics and data. Here's the SD stainless tube that has had the OD reduced in the middle portion and a experimental baffles stack next to it using VS guides and spacers. I didn't use this config 
Pic of everything assembled a few weeks ago. I had since painted it with high temp exhaust pipe ceramic paint. Eventually I'll cerakote it. The VS's laying there weren't used. 
Can mounted on the rifle prior to drilling the end cap and painting. Still a solvent trap at this point. 
SD Tac muzzle brake that I'm using and the 2.5" spacer that creates the blast chamber.
Here's the stack after I got home today and disassembled it to inspect. Everything looks perfect, no strikes and no wear that I can see on the baffles. There's a lot of crap on the bench but the pertinent stuff is the long row of baffles. From left to right....2.5" spacer which contains the muzzle brake, Ti VS to serve as the blast baffle and then a stack of 8 freeze plug baffle, a .75" spacer, 3 more FP baffles and then a washer to fill the space, allowing the cap to tighten down. Also pertinent is the now painted black tube above the line of baffles. Not in the pic....I just added a 8-32 button head machine screw to each end, securing the caps to the tube and stopping any rotation of the caps. Came out great. 
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Posted: 12/7/2014 11:11:54 PM EDT
[#32]
Nice! But the haters wont believe anything without video
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Posted: 12/7/2014 11:45:47 PM EDT
[#33]
Thanks for filling us in. I had kind of confused your build with several others, makes since now. VR should defiantly help save the Freeze plugs. Not a fan of the aluminum but I would definitely machine out the end cap, wasted weight and space there. Excited to see these working well. Very nice job. Was the spacer near the end of the stack just an orginal idea you were trying out or based on some commercial design? (typically the big tight stack tends to be near the end of the suppressor in commercial designs).
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Posted: 12/8/2014 12:08:15 AM EDT
[#34]
Excellent!
It seems more logical to have the 2.5" spacer => VS => .75 spacer => FP stacked together for this. This is contrast to running the .75 spacer toward the end. Kind of like tightening the stack as the gasses go down the tube. See pic.... 
Not questioning you or the great can you made, but why are you doing that config with the spacer later down the pipe? What size bore hole are you running? .360? I am looking to do a overbored .30cal can and run at .410" bore for .357 leveraction, 30-30 leveraction, and .223, kind of a do all can. However, I have a second Form1 that I will eventually use for .223 dedicated because a .410" hole with a .224" projectile shooting out means .0925" of space on each side. The Liberty Mystic still works with .223 and it is a 9mm aperture of some size. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzVrB0-MPTo Quoting c5hardtop "Interesting reads on the 5.56, 308, and 300blk test results 300blk: The 9mm can (probably ~.420" bore) produced the same results as some of the 308 Cans that are larger (probably .370-380" bores), specifically the 9mm can had the same results as a very well respected AAC Cyclone that is a 9.5" monster. 5.56: The 5.56 (probably ~.280 bores) and the 308 cans (probably .370-380" bores had pretty much identical results) 308: The only overbored can in the test (a .338 can that probably had a .400-420 bore) better every 308 (probably 370-380") bores. I have no fear running my .410 retainers on 308 and .325 retainers on 5.56 now." Quote HistoryQuoted:
F1 was approved today and got back a little bit ago from shaking out the SD tactical suppressor I built. Bottom Line: This thing is extraordinary. The can is built as a .30 cal and shot it today on my 300AAC 7.5" with both subs ad supers. Around 200 rounds thru it. I went with a 12 baffle setup and hands down it's quieter than my SWR Trident. A buddy and I shot side by side, him with the Trident mounted and me using the F1 can. The F1 can was noticeably quieter than the Trident. This was the consensus 4 guys that were observing as well. Sorry no video but will recreate and take one later this week. It really blew me away, not only the subs but also the supersonic 147's. Easily hearing safe...my M42K is louder on a 10" shooting 193 than this is shooting 147s and the M42k is hearing safe. Really happy and now a little pissed that I bought a SDN-6 a few months ago....there's really no need as far as I can tell for the SDN-6 though it is a bit lighter than this. My F1 can weighs in at 26 oz even with everything (no muzzle brake but the adapter). Some pics and data. Here's the SD stainless tube that has had the OD reduced in the middle portion and a experimental baffles stack next to it using VS guides and spacers. I didn't use this config <a href="http://s157.photobucket.com/user/pdmundt/media/stack_zpsd52c0eed.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t53/pdmundt/stack_zpsd52c0eed.jpg</a> Pic of everything assembled a few weeks ago. I had since painted it with high temp exhaust pipe ceramic paint. Eventually I'll cerakote it. The VS's laying there weren't used. <a href="http://s157.photobucket.com/user/pdmundt/media/IMG_3355_zpsa9b3f4c9.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t53/pdmundt/IMG_3355_zpsa9b3f4c9.jpg</a> Can mounted on the rifle prior to drilling the end cap and painting. Still a solvent trap at this point. <a href="http://s157.photobucket.com/user/pdmundt/media/IMG_3360_zps7b624461.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t53/pdmundt/IMG_3360_zps7b624461.jpg</a> SD Tac muzzle brake that I'm using and the 2.5" spacer that creates the blast chamber. <a href="http://s157.photobucket.com/user/pdmundt/media/IMG_3363_zpsca71f93e.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t53/pdmundt/IMG_3363_zpsca71f93e.jpg</a> Here's the stack after I got home today and disassembled it to inspect. Everything looks perfect, no strikes and no wear that I can see on the baffles. There's a lot of crap on the bench but the pertinent stuff is the long row of baffles. From left to right....2.5" spacer which contains the muzzle brake, Ti VS to serve as the blast baffle and then a stack of 8 freeze plug baffle, a .75" spacer, 3 more FP baffles and then a washer to fill the space, allowing the cap to tighten down. Also pertinent is the now painted black tube above the line of baffles. Not in the pic....I just added a 8-32 button head machine screw to each end, securing the caps to the tube and stopping any rotation of the caps. Came out great. <a href="http://s157.photobucket.com/user/pdmundt/media/baffles_zps6707476b.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t53/pdmundt/baffles_zps6707476b.jpg</a> |
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Posted: 12/8/2014 12:16:12 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Excellent! It seems more logical to have the 2.5" spacer => VS => .75 spacer => FP stacked together for this. This is contrast to running the .75 spacer toward the end. Kind of like tightening the stack as the gasses go down the tube. See pic.... <a href="http://s3.photobucket.com/user/jmortens/media/cutaway_zps6846c80f.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/jmortens/cutaway_zps6846c80f.jpg</a> Not questioning you or the great can you made, but why are you doing that config with the spacer later down the pipe? I think was has to be realized is that manufacturers have access to data to assist in their builds that the F1 crowd will never see. Case in point when I lived in Germany I had HK show me a new suppressor for the MP-5 that consisted off baffles that created self canceling vortices....this was all developed in a lab with high speed cameras, pressure studies, etc... So I guess my point is that it was a SWAG 
Bore is .370" I do plan on mimicking the baffle stack that you illustrated on my next build, when my cones arrive. I'll space them in a progressivly tightening stack. |
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Posted: 12/8/2014 12:19:15 AM EDT
[#36]
No worries. Glad your can sounds nice and quiet!
I plan on building the same with SS tube and end caps and just have more spacing up front almost like I described...2.5" spacer => VS => .75 spacer => FP stacked together All about a total of 8.5"-9" length. Should perform decent, hopefully. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think was has to be realized is that manufacturers have access to data to assist in their builds that the F1 crowd will never see. Case in point when I lived in Germany I had HK show me a new suppressor for the MP-5 that consisted off baffles that created self canceling vortex's....this was all developed in a lab with high speed cameras, pressure studies, etc... So I guess my point is that it was a SWAG
Bore is .370" I do plan on mimicking the baffle stack that you illustrated on my next build, when my cones arrive. I'll space them in a progressivly tightening stack. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Excellent! It seems more logical to have the 2.5" spacer => VS => .75 spacer => FP stacked together for this. This is contrast to running the .75 spacer toward the end. Kind of like tightening the stack as the gasses go down the tube. See pic.... <a href="http://s3.photobucket.com/user/jmortens/media/cutaway_zps6846c80f.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y94/jmortens/cutaway_zps6846c80f.jpg</a> Not questioning you or the great can you made, but why are you doing that config with the spacer later down the pipe? I think was has to be realized is that manufacturers have access to data to assist in their builds that the F1 crowd will never see. Case in point when I lived in Germany I had HK show me a new suppressor for the MP-5 that consisted off baffles that created self canceling vortex's....this was all developed in a lab with high speed cameras, pressure studies, etc... So I guess my point is that it was a SWAG
Bore is .370" I do plan on mimicking the baffle stack that you illustrated on my next build, when my cones arrive. I'll space them in a progressivly tightening stack. |
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Posted: 12/8/2014 1:21:25 PM EDT
[#37]
Here's a vid that I just shot of the F1 can with the 12 baffles, as mentioned above. Didn't have the other can on the range so no comaprison. Will try to do one later in the week.
This is a 7.5" bbl. Target is a steel head plate at 100. Mikes on the 1st two supers as the dot is zeroed to Subs and I had to hold low on the target. 
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Posted: 12/8/2014 7:51:32 PM EDT
[#38]
With a 0.370" bore, would you feel comfortable with running 9mm through that can? It sounds like it's big enough to handle it. I'm thinking 9mm AR, not a pistol...
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Posted: 12/8/2014 7:52:20 PM EDT
[#39]
Got my approved F1 back Friday. For those of you who believe they can center punch the baffles without that $20 tool, well it's not that easy to do
 . But I wanted to order a steel end cap anyways. I will post pics when it's done.
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Posted: 12/8/2014 8:31:15 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
With a 0.370" bore, would you feel comfortable with running 9mm through that can? It sounds like it's big enough to handle it. I'm thinking 9mm AR, not a pistol... No, I wouldn't. I'd bore to at least .400 for 9mm (.355/. 356) |
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Posted: 12/8/2014 9:49:07 PM EDT
[#41]
I am going to .410" bore and plan to run .357 Magnum from my Levergun, 30-30 Levergun as well as 5.56. I realize it will be loud on 5.56, but I have another dedicated 5.56 in the works.
Config will be SS Tube of 8.5"-9" length with endcaps, about a 2ish" blast spacer, Ti VR for blast baffle followed by cone formed SS freeze plugs. Going run as many baffles as possible as they are not as efficient stripping away gasses when running subsonic compared to supersonic. Will mostly run subsonic .357 magnum. Should be quiet with a closed action. Quote HistoryQuoted:
No, I wouldn't. I'd bore to at least .400 for 9mm (.355/. 356) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
With a 0.370" bore, would you feel comfortable with running 9mm through that can? It sounds like it's big enough to handle it. I'm thinking 9mm AR, not a pistol... No, I wouldn't. I'd bore to at least .400 for 9mm (.355/. 356) |
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Posted: 12/11/2014 11:27:14 PM EDT
[#42]
Where do you get these things engraved, or how did you do it?
Also does it have to be like SBRs example: Trust Name Trust city, State Serial# Or what? |
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Posted: 12/12/2014 12:00:59 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Where do you get these things engraved, or how did you do it? Also does it have to be like SBRs example: Trust Name Trust city, State Serial# Or what? I've had them done at a trophy shop (laser engraved for $9) and stamped them with stamp set myself, going to try a etching method next. If you don't want to deal with Ryan @openfirearms.com is great to deal with Trust Name City, State Model number (if you assign one on form 1) SN Caliber (from what you selected on your form 1) |
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Posted: 12/12/2014 12:05:44 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've had them done at a trophy shop (laser engraved for $9) and stamped them with stamp set myself, going to try a etching method next. If you don't want to deal with Ryan @openfirearms.com is great to deal with Trust Name City, State Model number (if you assign one on form 1) SN Caliber (from what you selected on your form 1) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Where do you get these things engraved, or how did you do it? Also does it have to be like SBRs example: Trust Name Trust city, State Serial# Or what? I've had them done at a trophy shop (laser engraved for $9) and stamped them with stamp set myself, going to try a etching method next. If you don't want to deal with Ryan @openfirearms.com is great to deal with Trust Name City, State Model number (if you assign one on form 1) SN Caliber (from what you selected on your form 1) Can a trophy shop engrave deep enough to meet the minimum depth when engraving in steel? |
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Posted: 12/12/2014 12:10:42 AM EDT
[#45]
I'm getting a stencil and trying the salt water etching on mine.
Going with this lay out: First Last My Town TX 223 HMC #XXXX Stencil should be here early next week. I already have the "electrical" part and I'm pretty sure I can make salt water.
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Posted: 12/12/2014 12:12:36 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can a trophy shop engrave deep enough to meet the minimum depth when engraving in steel? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Where do you get these things engraved, or how did you do it? Also does it have to be like SBRs example: Trust Name Trust city, State Serial# Or what? I've had them done at a trophy shop (laser engraved for $9) and stamped them with stamp set myself, going to try a etching method next. If you don't want to deal with Ryan @openfirearms.com is great to deal with Trust Name City, State Model number (if you assign one on form 1) SN Caliber (from what you selected on your form 1) Can a trophy shop engrave deep enough to meet the minimum depth when engraving in steel? .003" is the depth of a piece of paper, so yes, if they do small letters at full power they can do it. It worked for me on alumium, steel, and SS so far, the same shop could not do a ar-15 lower the anodizing was too hard. What you want to do is paint it first, that gives you another couple thousands build up, then your engraving looks deeper. If you paint over this newly engraved part you have to mist over it super fast or it fill easy. A thin coat of cerakote is about .001. |
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Posted: 12/12/2014 9:19:45 AM EDT
[#47]
This is a good alternative to buying a can as the turn around is fast on approval. Even though it's ugly you can just buy a silencer cover and no one will ever see it.
It will still come under 500 with the tax stamp. Just got to watch the length and weight, don't need a 3 lb suppressor on the end of you host. I'm in for later for better materials, don't want anything aluminum on/in the can and better baffles. |
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Posted: 12/12/2014 9:34:36 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is a good alternative to buying a can as the turn around is fast on approval. Even though it's ugly you can just buy a silencer cover and no one will ever see it. It will still come under 500 with the tax stamp. Just got to watch the length and weight, don't need a 3 lb suppressor on the end of you host. I'm in for later for better materials, don't want anything aluminum on/in the can and better baffles. In later? What exactly are waiting for? My 1.625 Titanium Tube with 316SS hollowed Ends with spanner wrench holes. Will have Ti VR baffles and Ti spacers. 
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Posted: 12/12/2014 9:35:16 AM EDT
[#49]
Better materials are here - check the other 2 threads SDTA has Ti in the works and Ryan's thread has Ti available thru Chris.
ETA.. that thing is awesome I need to get that second F1 submitted for Ti build. Well two more would be ideal so I can also do a small .22lr as well. |
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Posted: 12/12/2014 9:52:47 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
In later? What exactly are waiting for? My 1.625 Titanium Tube with 316SS hollowed Ends with spanner wrench holes. Will have Ti VR baffles and Ti spacers. Quote HistoryQuoted:
In later? What exactly are waiting for? My 1.625 Titanium Tube with 316SS hollowed Ends with spanner wrench holes. Will have Ti VR baffles and Ti spacers. Release of better baffles and material on end cap adapter(muzle end). Don't want aluminum Quoted:
Better materials are here - check the other 2 threads SDTA has Ti in the works and Ryan's thread has Ti available thru Chris. ETA.. that thing is awesome I need to get that second F1 submitted for Ti build. Well two more would be ideal so I can also do a small .22lr as well. Yes, I know. I'm waiting for them to be available. Specifically the muzzle end adapter. |
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