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Posted: 4/18/2011 11:01:35 PM
Originally Posted By Bowen1911: 1 inch 316 stainless tubing with .049 walls 304 stainless for internals Just over 6.5 inches overall length Video on 22/45 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoKuhDQxMkA http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0329.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0331.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0332.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0333.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0335.jpg How were the cone-shaped baffles made? Stamping, machined from solid piece? 2 piece welded? |
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Posted: 4/27/2011 1:04:56 AM
Originally Posted By Javak:
Originally Posted By Bowen1911:
1 inch 316 stainless tubing with .049 walls 304 stainless for internals Just over 6.5 inches overall length Video on 22/45 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoKuhDQxMkA http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0329.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0331.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0332.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0333.jpg http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af99/rbowen47/Form%201%20silencer/DSC_0335.jpg How were the cone-shaped baffles made? Stamping, machined from solid piece? 2 piece welded? Machined on a lathe. |
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Posted: 6/3/2011 11:11:23 AM
This is my latest form 1 on my m&p
And this is the core.. I have a sparrow but I dident want 16 inches of barrel plus 6 inches of suppressor plus I plan on useing hyper volicity ammo I needed stainless and at the time sparrow dident come in stainless .... I also wanted a larger blast chamber The center of the baffels have a larger devide wich I think helps out with the high volicity ammo
And the YouTube link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKpfdf3bcRU&feature=youtube_gdata_player |
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Posted: 6/3/2011 11:20:43 AM
This is my suppressed AR-15
And with out the suppressor I cut the barrel down to 16 and1/4 and made a titainum end concentric to the bore within .0005Â The suppressor slides on the barrel with .0005 slip so even if it comes lose half way it will never give a baffel strike
This is the baffels I went with they are heat treated 17-4 stainless They are ground on the O.D to a .001 slip fit and just slide in a 316 stainless tube then both ends are welded The bore on the baffels is .250 leaving .014 preside For the .223 bullet
When I was out testing my new suppressor I met a guy with a lightning link and he was very kind to let me test it with my new build YouTube link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfV_Geim07c&feature=youtube_gdata_player |
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Posted: 6/5/2011 8:02:34 PM
Sig 22
Ok just finished one made just for my sig 22  The baffel design is a little differnt than my m&p but it still works very well  I didn't have time to program the cnc so the baffels on this one was done free hand on a manual mill
And the YouTube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAGQTzgl_os&feature=youtube_gdata_player |
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Posted: 6/5/2011 8:03:36 PM
[Last Edit: 6/8/2011 11:13:14 AM by Zevdogs]
Rugger 10/22
Just finished my intregal rugger 10/22, the hard part for me was cutting the wood stock out to fit the barrel
The barrel has been cut down to 8 inches and I have used a wire EDM to cut 60 degree slots into the barrel as a gas relief on the full leanth of the barrel to keep bullets subsonic  Then I've threaded the end for this type of suppressor to go on the barrel
Then to make it as quite as possible I made a 2 inch tube at the end of the suppressor( but inside the large tube) and rolled up steal wool around a 1/4 bar .... Just to give a center for the bullet to pass And that is at the end of the tube past the suppressor and sealed in side by a threaded end cap , it's like a steel wool  bullet wipe  I Plan on this one as a muskrat killer  |
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Posted: 8/8/2011 1:01:06 PM
Originally Posted By Zevdogs:
Rugger 10/22 Just finished my intregal rugger 10/22, the hard part for me was cutting the wood stock out to fit the barrel http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/zevdogs/f74b5853.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/zevdogs/86a837c0.jpg The barrel has been cut down to 8 inches and I have used a wire EDM to cut 60 degree slots into the barrel as a gas relief on the full leanth of the barrel to keep bullets subsonic  Then I've threaded the end for this type of suppressor to go on the barrel http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/zevdogs/8753bf06.jpg Then to make it as quite as possible I made a 2 inch tube at the end of the suppressor( but inside the large tube) and rolled up steal wool around a 1/4 bar .... Just to give a center for the bullet to pass And that is at the end of the tube past the suppressor and sealed in side by a threaded end cap , it's like a steel wool  bullet wipe  I Plan on this one as a muskrat killer  I'm in Utah, you're in Utah...you see where this is going? Honestly, I think your suppressors are rather cool! I'm looking on designing one and eventually apply for the permission to build my own. Please Email me. |
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Posted: 8/24/2011 10:10:37 AM
Sure let go shoot them and then you'll really like em
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Posted: 9/19/2011 9:21:32 PM
223 Integral
16" barrel 30 deg ports back to the 11" mark on the barrel with 60 deg baffles that index on a step at each port and they all snap together. The stepped baffle is threaded 1/2x28 so it screws on the muzzle threads to keep all baffles tight, the last two baffles get the press by the welded on end cap. Tube is 316 stainless 1.65 OD .065 wall, Blast baffle is 17-4 all the rest of the baffles are 316. I'm not done with the rear gas block/end cap as it will have a adjustable gas valve on/off when its all done. It all came out to 18.25 oal length and is a little quieter than my SPR-M4 on a 16" barrel host when shot side by side. The best thing about this build is it came out short enough to be like a 10.5 SBR with a can and I get no blow back at all in your face and it runs cleaner too. I think the extra volume of the can eats up alot of the strong blow back as the gas pressure is not as high and has more room to play instead of coming back up the barrel and in the action. I'm glad I decided to build it as it worked out the way I hoped it would .
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Posted: 9/19/2011 9:26:31 PM
TC Contender 22 Lr integral
It came out at 16.25" aol from a 4.5" barrel and is stupid quiet All stainless as I wanted a little weight since the contenders are light with a 16" barrel and new this build would come out even less weight. K baffle design but they all snap together and look like a can without a tube. No carbon, lead or anything gets between the baffle stack and the inner walls of the back bored barrel so the stack unscrews and slides out easy. 316 Stainless .875 OD .065 wall .745 ID tube was over kill but I used what I had as I have too much of 316 316 stainless baffles all 16 of them and after 10 baffles it only got a little quieter but I needed the extra small amount of weight so I made 6 more instead of spacers. .250 bore all the way through as I trust my machine skills to get away with it. .
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Posted: 9/23/2011 12:39:17 AM
[Last Edit: 10/23/2011 5:27:09 PM by Redtazdog]
This Form 1 build will work for the 375 H&H and the Cheytac
316 stainless 12" x 2"OD .100 wall tube turned down in steps to remove the extra weight. All 316 stainless baffles and end caps After engraving the last end cap will be welded on and turned down to remove weight and look good. .
. It s done! It came out to 4.2 lbs :D I chucked up the barrel in the lathe and dialed it in off the bore then put the can on, gave it a spin just to see if the end cap bore hole turns concentric with the barrel and it all looks good. This is the second can made with the same style of baffles, the first one sounded so good I had to make another for the 375 The 375 H&H and soon this can will double duty on the Cheytac
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Posted: 9/23/2011 12:43:23 AM
AR 22 Lr form 1 integral
16.25 barrel with 16 K baffles like the TC 22 integral build. The muzzle brake is the end cap and is more for looks and ease for removing the baffle stack. .
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Posted: 10/5/2011 6:34:10 PM
Originally Posted By Redtazdog:
AR 22 Lr form 1 integral 16.25 barrel with 16 K baffles like the TC 22 integral build. The muzzle brake is the end cap and is more for looks and ease for removing the baffle stack. . http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2111w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2112w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/ARinteg222w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/ARinteg22w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/ARinteg221w.jpg very very different i like it |
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Posted: 10/10/2011 12:54:45 AM
Originally Posted By Redtazdog:
223 Integral 16" barrel 30 deg ports back to the 11" mark on the barrel with 60 deg baffles that index on a step at each port and they all snap together. The stepped baffle is threaded 1/2x28 so it screws on the muzzle threads to keep all baffles tight, the last two baffles get the press by the welded on end cap. Tube is 316 stainless 1.65 OD .065 wall, Blast baffle is 17-4 all the rest of the baffles are 316. I'm not done with the rear gas block/end cap as it will have a adjustable gas valve on/off when its all done. It all came out to 18.25 oal length and is a little quieter than my SPR-M4 on a 16" barrel host when shot side by side. The best thing about this build is it came out short enough to be like a 10.5 SBR with a can and I get no blow back at all in your face and it runs cleaner too. I think the extra volume of the can eats up alot of the strong blow back as the gas pressure is not as high and has more room to play instead of coming back up the barrel and in the action. I'm glad I decided to build it as it worked out the way I hoped it would . http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2839w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2838w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2834w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2833w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2751w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2832w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2744w.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa166/redtazdog/DSCN2750w.jpg Wow Interesting. So the gun runs off the pressure thats inside the can instead of in the barrel? |
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Posted: 11/10/2011 11:28:05 AM
My new colt 9mm
Cut barrel down to 10 inches pinned and welded suppressor on so no SBR
My new version of a K-baffle all 7are 17-4 heat treated stainless steel
And photos after being shot notice the burn pattern
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Posted: 12/21/2011 3:01:40 PM
This thread is pretty amazing. I would love to try this one day but currently lacking the machine for this
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Posted: 1/18/2012 9:57:52 PM
Hey, pondering submitting a Form 1, and had a few questions...
Regarding pistol suppressors, focusing on a Glock ('cause I have one). Is there anything to take into consideration concerning the movement of the barrel of a pistol, such as my G29? I'm wondering what sort of differences a pistol can would need (light weight seems obvious) to ensure the weapon continued to function properly with what is frankly a large, heavy, long addition to the barrel... |
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Posted: 1/18/2012 10:09:58 PM
Originally Posted By imburner:
This thread is pretty amazing. I would love to try this one day but currently lacking the machine for this No doubt! Wish i had a machine shop. |
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Posted: 1/18/2012 11:43:27 PM
Hmmm... A few minutes cursory research reveals that most pistols will require a Nielsen Device... This may be an interesting design problem...
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Posted: 2/1/2012 9:18:00 AM
Originally Posted By John_Lenin:
Hmmm... A few minutes cursory research reveals that most pistols will require a Nielsen Device... This may be an interesting design problem... Incorrect. Most recoil operated pistols will require a nielsen device. Blow back, gas operated, bolt and single shot pistols do not. Ranb |
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Posted: 3/4/2012 5:29:54 PM
Originally Posted By Ranb:
Originally Posted By John_Lenin:
Hmmm... A few minutes cursory research reveals that most pistols will require a Nielsen Device... This may be an interesting design problem... Incorrect. Most recoil operated pistols will require a nielsen device. Blow back, gas operated, bolt and single shot pistols do not. Ranb Ok, good point. A question, though. If a recoil operated pistol were to have a suppressor mounted on it in such a way [namely: absence of a nelsen device] that it was a single shot, and each casing had to be manually ejected from the chamber [ie: racking the slide manually], would this risk undue damage to the frame/slide/barrel of the pistol? Basically making a recoil-operated pistol [ie: a glock] a bolt-action pistol... |
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Posted: 3/10/2012 4:54:55 PM
Originally Posted By John_Lenin:
Ok, good point. A question, though. If a recoil operated pistol were to have a suppressor mounted on it in such a way [namely: absence of a nelsen device] that it was a single shot, and each casing had to be manually ejected from the chamber [ie: racking the slide manually], would this risk undue damage to the frame/slide/barrel of the pistol? Basically making a recoil-operated pistol [ie: a glock] a bolt-action pistol... Yes. The energy has to go somewhere |
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Posted: 3/11/2012 12:10:57 AM
I made a 9mm can as light as possible and used it on my Browning HP along with a cut down 8 pound spring and a hot 147 grain load moving at 1060 fps. After a few hundred rounds there is obvious damage in the form of raised metal on the top which is jamming things up.
The original barrel is on top, the damaged threaded barrel on the bottom. I filed down the edges and everything seems to work fine. But after a few mags the edges are starting to raise again. I think the barrel metal is too soft. Or maybe there is just too much stress. Ranb |
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Posted: 4/8/2012 12:39:40 PM
Originally Posted By Gorilla:
Just got back from a much needed vacation, a week of diving on Bonaire. I know I'm dragging my feet a bit, I keep thinking I want to apply the moly before final photos, but I think I'll go ahead and get some pics up. It's a Ciener .22 installed in a Bushmaster lower with a side-folder stock and a short (5") Kuehl bbl. On semi it's flawless, still needs tweaking for full reliability in auto. The low-impulse of the target ammo in a short bbl will call for some work. I've already installed some light-action springs in the lower which helps tremendously. I'm going to get some Lakeside springs for the Ciener and mess with those a bit. I've got several floating guards. The one on the gun right now is a pistol guard. It would be a bit dangerous to shoot it (no can) without a hand stop (or whatever they call it) to keep from putting a round through your hand. I think it's going to look better with a carbine-length guard. http://www.5bears.com/nfa/can42.jpg Stock unfolded; suppressor mounted http://www.5bears.com/nfa/can43.jpg Man, that is the sweetest AR pistol I've seen! Very nice can too! |
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Posted: 4/10/2012 2:27:30 PM
First time in a machinist's shop eh?? JK Very nice job!
From your youtube video, have you run into any problems running the aguila super colibri ammo?? From what I've read running this ammo through most "big name" suppressors is a "no no". |
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