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Posted: 12/3/2001 9:12:44 AM EDT
What is the best trigger lube, for the sear surfaces? CLP? Grease? Make any difference in how it feels?
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 9:17:21 AM EDT

Jewells get nothing/lighter fluid, JP's get JP sear lube.
Don't ask me about a GI trigger, as I have none.
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 9:21:30 AM EDT
A drop of CLP or a lubricating oil, only once a year or less.
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 9:24:52 AM EDT
I use moly lube. I place a small amount on the sear surfaces and work the trigger. I leave it there for several hundred trigger manipulations and then I remove it. After that just regular gun oil. Working the trigger mechanism burnishes the moly into the sear engagement surfaces making them more slippery. Subsequently, you have a smoother and easier trigger pull. This won't fix a 'rough' trigger or mechanical problems like length of pull or overtravel.

FWIW....Geno
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 3:10:31 PM EDT
KY jelly ? seems like the best thing for a tight trigger.
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 4:43:39 PM EDT
Your having sex with a horse? I would try a nice dinner of oats followed by watching some old Derby vids. Give her a look at those stallions.JMHO
BP
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 5:29:16 PM EDT
A drop of STP Oil Treatment. Learned this from Bill Wilson, years ago.

The "dry trigger" idea was fostered by not too reliable 1911 gunsmiths. When a customer complained about his wonderful match trigger allowing the hammer to follow the slide down, the 'smith would quickly explain that "his triggers should be run dry". The fact that a 1911 trigger mechanism will quickly attract lube, was not mentioned by the 'smith. When the already defective trigger job wore out due to no lube, the customer usually figured it out.
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 5:54:54 PM EDT
NECO MolySlide on engagement surfaces. Feels like the trigger gets 2#'s lighter.
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 6:43:23 PM EDT

Originally Posted By faris:
A drop of STP Oil Treatment. Learned this from Bill Wilson, years ago.

The "dry trigger" idea was fostered by not too reliable 1911 gunsmiths. When a customer complained about his wonderful match trigger allowing the hammer to follow the slide down, the 'smith would quickly explain that "his triggers should be run dry". The fact that a 1911 trigger mechanism will quickly attract lube, was not mentioned by the 'smith. When the already defective trigger job wore out due to no lube, the customer usually figured it out.



Hey, I don't care what they say, I was all in tune to your 1911 post, as I had just polished my sear and applied Tetra grease to the surface of my Kimber while reading this thread!
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 6:52:51 PM EDT
I use NECO MolySlide in all four of my AR's, including the one I carry around in my truck daily. They all four have CLE triggers, and MolySlide is what Frank recommends. If/when dust or fouling starts to accumulate in the lower, I flush with brake & parts cleaner followed by compressed air, and then re-lube the pins & springs with CLP, and put a small dab of MS on the hammer hook, then cycle the trigger a few times to spread it over the sear nose. I used to use STP on my 1911 sears/hammer hooks, but have gone to MolySlide there, too.
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 6:59:12 PM EDT
Mine goes dry for 1500 rounds, then light moly.
Link Posted: 12/3/2001 10:01:44 PM EDT

Originally Posted By AILapua:
1911 was in the heading for this thread?

Ai



No tontuelo, sear surfaces are the thing.

I use moly lube and a micro drop of Break free.
GG
Link Posted: 12/4/2001 12:50:31 AM EDT
Hey, that's her job! ;)

I use that old STP trick, it works.
Link Posted: 12/4/2001 7:37:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/4/2001 7:30:33 AM EDT by Hardwood]
I use Militec-1 for my trigger jobs. It along with a mirror-finish "stone and polish" job make quite a nice difference in the feel. Really rough trigger sets can be made to feel great with a dremel tool+poly buffing wheel+bore paste used as a polishing compound. Wipe all parts clean with a good solvent to remove the bore paste then polish again using a clean poly buffing wheel+Militec = SMOOOOOOTH. Heat and friction make the Militec-1 do its magic.

Edited to add that you'll end up with a "dry" but very, very slick bearing surface that won't have a tacky layer of goo to attract dust and dirt.
Link Posted: 12/4/2001 10:53:36 AM EDT
STP...
Link Posted: 12/4/2001 10:59:04 AM EDT

D S X

Ask DonR and/or Eric_the_Hun about this stuff... I turned them both onto it!
Link Posted: 12/4/2001 2:03:04 PM EDT
I clean out my lower /trigger with a patch/CLP. Whatever CLP happens to be left on it, thats what I leave there.
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