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3/20/2017 5:03:23 PM
Posted: 10/31/2001 7:12:03 AM EDT
Has anyone arc welded the muzzle brake to the barrel? I need to permanently attach the brake. I remember reading that 4 welds would satisfy the law. I am wondering if the arc would damage the inside of the barrel.
Link Posted: 10/31/2001 7:15:49 AM EDT
Don't weld it!

Blind pin and silver solder meet spec. Silver solder is used on the piping of nuclear reactors, so it'll be fine on your muzzle.

-- Chuck
Link Posted: 10/31/2001 7:19:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/31/2001 7:13:29 AM EDT by brent5412]
I would talk to a qualified gunsmith first, but my guess is, the heat generated from arc welding will adversely affect your barrel by heat treating it in an improper fashion.

I would not want to be near it when you fired it. I bet after enough rounds the end of the barrel where you welded it will shatter.

There are other methods you can use to permanently mount your brake, arc welding is not it.

Link Posted: 10/31/2001 7:20:36 AM EDT
Try pinning it and using green locktight.
Link Posted: 10/31/2001 9:07:42 AM EDT
If you are attaching a muzzle device to a threaded barrel intended for use on a postban rifle, you can weld the brake to the barrel using four equally spaced spot welds; welding at least half way around the brake; blind pinning with a hardened steel pin; silver-soldering with high temperature silver solder; or blind pinning with a hardened steel pin and welding over the end of the pin.

Loctite and lower temp silver solder are not acceptable to the BATF for use in attaching a postban muzzle device to a barrel with standard FS threads for use on a postban weapon.

Check with Kurt of Kurt's Custom Firearms on the Industry Forum. He does an outstanding job.
Link Posted: 10/31/2001 9:07:44 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Royal_Lancer:
Try pinning it and using green locktight.



ATF has specifically stated that epoxies, adhesives and the type are not acceptable. It has to be either welded or silver soldered.
Link Posted: 10/31/2001 11:08:06 AM EDT
A GOOD "tig" welder can put a few tacks on there and that would probably be ok but CHECK WITH THE ATF FIRST! It is low heat and very concentrated so damage to the barrel would be unlikely.pg
Link Posted: 10/31/2001 11:42:35 AM EDT
Heed these words of a professional welder...

yes it would mess up your barrel INSIDE and OUT,

Dont even think of stick (arc) welding that barrel. Arc simply lacks the precision needed to do that particular job neatly and correctly. It would be like brain surgery with a meat cleaver

From what i have noticed most muzzle breaks especialy on imported guns tend to be mig (wire) welded in place.Its sloppy looking but it gets the job done.

idealy though tig(heliarc) would be your best option for that weld job. its neat and very precise.
Assuming you know what your dooing.

Link Posted: 10/31/2001 7:03:26 PM EDT
TIG at 0300,0600,0900,1200 will work very well!
Link Posted: 10/31/2001 9:11:28 PM EDT
TIG is the only way to go!! -- Have had 3 done with no problems. -- My guy takes a small thin blade grinder, (like a moto tool) and makes 4 very small slots about 1/8" deep x 1/8" wide x 1/8" long at the junction of the BBL, washer and brake. -- He then puts a ring of heatsink putty, (looks like silly putty) around the BBL & brake approx. 1/2" back from the joint. -- He uses a very small tungsten and tiny 70,000 psi filler rod and fills the small slot flush to the BBL. -- When he is done you can lay your bare hand on the welds, (very low heat input). -- No grinding needed and the point of impact is not changed. -- One thing I have noticed is that on one upper I put a brake on, It will now handle Malayasian ammo where before with the flash hider It would not take the bolt all the way back, about 1/2 the time. -- Must have raised the BBL pressure just a tad.-- Good Luck on your project. -- ALLONS11
Link Posted: 10/31/2001 9:35:17 PM EDT
A buddy of mine did the 4 equally-spaced spot welds Dave_G mentions. Worked pretty well, too; no adverse effects at all. Accuracy didn't even suffer.
Link Posted: 11/1/2001 4:39:45 AM EDT
Why can't you use ALLONS11 techique except use a MIG welder. Also a auto darkening shield is a big plus. JMHO
Link Posted: 11/1/2001 9:40:38 AM EDT
Thanks for the help. I go with the siver solder since I don't have a mig welder.
Link Posted: 11/1/2001 11:48:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/1/2001 11:51:21 AM EDT by propguy]

Originally Posted By TripleD:
Why can't you use ALLONS11 techique except use a MIG welder. Also a auto darkening shield is a big plus. JMHO

Heat, spatter, no control. Not to sound like a smart ass but it would not matter how good you are with a mig in this case tig is the only way to go ; Tig is quick and relatively low heat. It is your barrel but I would bring it to someone who knows what they are doing.good luck pg and yes to the auto shield
Link Posted: 11/1/2001 1:52:36 PM EDT
I agree with the GTAW welding as the only acceptable method. One could use exotics like laser/electron beam but they are unreachable by us ordinary folk.

I know some really great GTAW welders that can lay a 1/16" fillet in 18 Ga. stainless. Wonder if they could do the same on a barrel? If the barrel were full of water with a dead soft copper plug in the muzzle, I doubt the heat affected zone would be critical. Thermal stress would also be nil, just remember good barrels are made of 4350 and its hard to weld. HAZ is likely to be brittle. Use a very ductile filler like an Inco.
Link Posted: 11/1/2001 4:02:56 PM EDT
Use the tig without filler and just fuse the parts (very small weld and very fast so no distortion or anything to grind) together but definately use the heat absorbing paste. And yes I am a welder and promise it will work if you are careful
Link Posted: 11/1/2001 5:51:03 PM EDT
TIG WELD ONLY!!!!! I am a certified mig,tig and stick welder in the state of ohio. I can weld pop cans together with tig welding process. As others here have said, super low heat input, precision control of weld puddle. no distortion at all. This would be the only process i would use. I have built a FMP HK 91. I sleeved the HK flash hider and tig welded it in. Countersunk the end and polished up with a flapwheel. Looks great. TIG is the only way, Sorry for rambling on.
Link Posted: 11/1/2001 6:46:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/1/2001 6:41:00 PM EDT by propguy]

Originally Posted By Keith_J:
I agree with the GTAW welding as the only acceptable method. One could use exotics like laser/electron beam but they are unreachable by us ordinary folk.

I know some really great GTAW welders that can lay a 1/16" fillet in 18 Ga. stainless. Wonder if they could do the same on a barrel? If the barrel were full of water with a dead soft copper plug in the muzzle, I doubt the heat affected zone would be critical. Thermal stress would also be nil, just remember good barrels are made of 4350 and its hard to weld. HAZ is likely to be brittle. Use a very ductile filler like an Inco.

I would make sure that the welder ran a "y" connection from the argon tank and "fill" the barrel continuously with argon to make sure it does not distort the inside.JMHO I don't think the water would be a good idea.Fusing would be good IF atf would "ok" this. my.02 pg
Link Posted: 11/2/2001 8:44:49 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Hoplophile:

Originally Posted By Royal_Lancer:
Try pinning it and using green locktight.



ATF has specifically stated that epoxies, adhesives and the type are not acceptable. It has to be either welded or silver soldered.



Who cares? Green locktight would be just fine... I seriously doubt the ATF is going to go at the thing with a pneumatic wrench, just to see if the damn thing meets their regulations!
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