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Posted: 8/20/2014 8:40:28 PM EDT
[#1]
I had a stainless gb folder that looked badass but shot minute of pie plate at 50 yards after 10 or so rounds. I sold it during the ban for a ridiculous profit and haven't missed it unless I watch a-team reruns.
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Posted: 8/21/2014 11:55:47 AM EDT
[#2]
It was the perfect A-Team firearm. All those rounds fired with no one getting killed. Thank goodness for Ruger accuracy!
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Posted: 8/21/2014 12:03:00 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It was the perfect A-Team firearm. All those rounds fired with no one getting killed. Thank goodness for Ruger accuracy! If Ruger actually made a wood/stainless GB folder with the original folding stock, they'd sell every last one of them. The nostalgia factor, and the nice looks of the GB folder is probably the main reason to get a Mini over an AR, with AR's running so cheap right now with so many competitors making them. |
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Posted: 8/21/2014 2:53:28 PM EDT
[#4]
The Mini 14 I shot was the grittiest, roughest feeling firearm I've ever shot, and the accuracy was shit. If you told me someone actually polished the trigger components at all on the example I shot, I would laugh in your face. The new ones could be crap and still be better than that one.
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Posted: 8/21/2014 3:08:47 PM EDT
[#5]
I had a mini-14 a long time ago and it shot terribly. I got rid of it but I do like the look and feel of them. If I could buy one that would hold 2.5" or so at 100 yards I probably would just to add to the collection as I don't need every rifle to be really accurate. It sounds like from what some of you are saying is that the most recent models are showing better accuracy but are they still having trouble with the barrel getting hot pretty quick and then loosing accuracy? It has been 20 years since I had one. Is the mini-30 any bettter?
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Posted: 8/21/2014 3:19:34 PM EDT
[#6]
I had one back oh about 25 years ago, and stuck a side folding Feather Industries stock on it. I think I got about 6 or more inches at a hundred yards with open sights.
I traded it for something or another back in the 90s, I think. It was reliable, never had any failures of any kind with factory ammo. I always thought of it as an American AK. Except I think I shoot AKs a bit better, considering the short sight radius. I'm sure nowadays the barrels are made a lot better so accuracy should be better, but I never looked back... |
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Posted: 8/21/2014 3:45:58 PM EDT
[#7]
yes
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Posted: 8/21/2014 8:43:30 PM EDT
[#8]
I got a 2013 rifle in 5.56 NATO in June it now wears a Redfield 2x-7x scope w/ 2 of my hand loads it will consistently group .75-1.25 @ 100 yds
Federal American Eagle and Winchester will do a solid 2.0" @ 100 meters so I think they've cleaned them up a bit. |
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Posted: 8/21/2014 9:36:51 PM EDT
[#9]
Good gun, reliable, not a tack driver. At 100 yards I can get on a 8X11 sheet of paper (man's torso) sometimes. Lots of flyers
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Posted: 8/21/2014 9:49:59 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good gun, reliable, not a tack driver. At 100 yards I can get on a 8X11 sheet of paper (man's torso) sometimes. Lots of flyers Standing offhand? |
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Posted: 8/22/2014 4:14:03 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Standing offhand? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Good gun, reliable, not a tack driver. At 100 yards I can get on a 8X11 sheet of paper (man's torso) sometimes. Lots of flyers Standing offhand? |
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Posted: 8/22/2014 6:32:32 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, they're not that bad, but they are kind of pointless when you can buy $700 Colt ARs at Walmart. I've never seen a 700 dollar Colt AR, but this guy hits the nail on the head. I had one of the older stainless steel Minis. I think it was from the 161 series. Anyway, I put an accu-strut and a flash hider on it, and it shot decently enough, other than some horizontal stringing. But, when I needed money to convert my Saiga, I started looking around for things to sell. The Mini-14 was the first thing that came to mind. There is a gun forum that I can't remember the name of, that has a large Mini following. They have a huge section that talks about how you can make a Mini-14 more accurate. Thing is, by the time you spent all that money, you could have had an AR that shoots as well, if not better. There was nothing really WRONG with my Mini-14. But compared to a good AR, it comes up far short. That being said, if I moved to a state with funky gun laws where I couldn't own an AR but could own a Mini-14, I'd get one of the newer ones with thicker barrels and not think twice.
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Posted: 8/22/2014 6:34:07 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've seen a few damaged Minis, mostly the bore at the muzzle from improper cleaning technique, and also from loose fit of the barreled action in the stock. A lot of Mini owners don't know what is the correct weight of bullet for their barrel. Frankly, I've seen more unskilled shooters than damaged Minis. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Its all in the hands of the shooter. Some people just cant shoot a mini-14 and they make the negative statements. I've seen a few damaged Minis, mostly the bore at the muzzle from improper cleaning technique, and also from loose fit of the barreled action in the stock. A lot of Mini owners don't know what is the correct weight of bullet for their barrel. Frankly, I've seen more unskilled shooters than damaged Minis. There is also the nagging problem that some of the Mini-14's have improperly torqued gas blocks.
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Posted: 8/22/2014 12:55:34 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is also the nagging problem that some of the Mini-14's have improperly torqued gas blocks. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Its all in the hands of the shooter. Some people just cant shoot a mini-14 and they make the negative statements. I've seen a few damaged Minis, mostly the bore at the muzzle from improper cleaning technique, and also from loose fit of the barreled action in the stock. A lot of Mini owners don't know what is the correct weight of bullet for their barrel. Frankly, I've seen more unskilled shooters than damaged Minis. There is also the nagging problem that some of the Mini-14's have improperly torqued gas blocks. And one of the easiest to solve. The bottom portion of the gas block is located by the gas bushing, albeit somewhat loosely. Before torqueing the gas block, remove the upper portion. Move the bottom portion of the gas block fore and aft, and make pencil marks on the barrel marking the limits of its travel. Do the same while rotating the lower portion on the gas block clockwise and counter clockwise on the barrel, again marking the limits of travel. Re-assemble the upper and lower portions, and using NEW fasteners get everything finger tight while keeping the lower portion of the gas block evenly between the extreme limits of travel imposed by the gas bushing. Tighten the screws, little by little, keeping the lower portion of the gas block in position, and also keeping the gap between lower and upper portions of the gas block assembly even. Check this with a feeler gauge. For precision, use an in/lbs torque wrench (don't recall the figure) or use an educated couple of fingers. Tighten in an accepted pattern, and evenly. You should be GTG, even without a torque wrench. BTW, this is a good time to remove the OEM huge inner diameter gas bushing, and install a much smaller bushing. Your Mini will still work fine, but your brass won't be launched into orbit, nor will the op-rod be moved with quite so much violence. Muzzle velocity will go up a bit, (as will effective range) so plan on re-zeroing. |
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Posted: 8/22/2014 1:08:08 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually it's not. For example, I use SK Standard Plus for practice ammo in my Anschutz. Both the rifle and myself can shoot a clean 200/200 score in prone position at 50m with high end match ammo. With Sk Standard Plus however i normally shoot a 196 to 198 as I can almost bet on getting 2 fliers per box of 50, which is about what I use with sighters included on a 40 shot A-23/5 target. It is however still very valuable practice however as I know where the shot should have went based on how things looked when the shot broke compared to the rest of the shots in the match. Consequently, when I shoot what should have been a 10 at 3 o'clock, and it lands as an 8 at 6 o'clock, it's pretty clear it was the ammo. However, I can get in two or three times as much practice for the same amount of Money using SK Std Plus at $5.50 per box, and it does not cut into the hard to find and much more higher grade match ammo that I'll use when the points actually matter. I shoot a lot and I've shot competitively off and on for the last 30 years, so YOUR ability to reliably call a shot may differ. ---- Now… with that said, when developing a load or when testing a lot of rimfire ammo, I'll shoot off the bench and use a scope to minimize any shooter error to further isolate what's due to the shooter and what's due to the rifle and load combination. I will also shoot at least two 5 shot groups of each load tested, and I will usually follow that up with three more 5 shot groups of the more promising loads in the second round of testing. That means I'll have five 5 round groups and 25 rounds of chrono data to compare when choosing a load. It's possible to shoot a lot of very good 3 round groups, it's harder to get good 5 round groups, and statistically, it's all but impossible to shoot five 5 round groups and not see at least 1 or 2 ammo related fliers if they are going to happen. ---- So in general theory I agree that flies are important, but they can be caused by both the shooter or the rifle/ammo combination, and a good shooter can usually tell the difference. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I am not saying anything for or against minis. But the fact is, you can't just discount a flyer and call it a good group. A good group includes all the rounds fired. It's just that simple. For example, I use SK Standard Plus for practice ammo in my Anschutz. Both the rifle and myself can shoot a clean 200/200 score in prone position at 50m with high end match ammo. With Sk Standard Plus however i normally shoot a 196 to 198 as I can almost bet on getting 2 fliers per box of 50, which is about what I use with sighters included on a 40 shot A-23/5 target. It is however still very valuable practice however as I know where the shot should have went based on how things looked when the shot broke compared to the rest of the shots in the match. Consequently, when I shoot what should have been a 10 at 3 o'clock, and it lands as an 8 at 6 o'clock, it's pretty clear it was the ammo. However, I can get in two or three times as much practice for the same amount of Money using SK Std Plus at $5.50 per box, and it does not cut into the hard to find and much more higher grade match ammo that I'll use when the points actually matter. I shoot a lot and I've shot competitively off and on for the last 30 years, so YOUR ability to reliably call a shot may differ. ---- Now… with that said, when developing a load or when testing a lot of rimfire ammo, I'll shoot off the bench and use a scope to minimize any shooter error to further isolate what's due to the shooter and what's due to the rifle and load combination. I will also shoot at least two 5 shot groups of each load tested, and I will usually follow that up with three more 5 shot groups of the more promising loads in the second round of testing. That means I'll have five 5 round groups and 25 rounds of chrono data to compare when choosing a load. It's possible to shoot a lot of very good 3 round groups, it's harder to get good 5 round groups, and statistically, it's all but impossible to shoot five 5 round groups and not see at least 1 or 2 ammo related fliers if they are going to happen. ---- So in general theory I agree that flies are important, but they can be caused by both the shooter or the rifle/ammo combination, and a good shooter can usually tell the difference. Not arguing with you at all. If that's what works for you, then great. When I shoot for groups, I include them all. That's just how I do it. If I'm going to claim I did 1 MOA or 2 MOA, all the bullets in the group will be included. Just makes it simpler to me. People can claim all kinds of accuracy when they leave fliers out. Whether it was them or the ammo would be hard to know. Molon had some very good posts about all this and I'm sort of with him on it. Although he'd use 10 round groups. I have done that occasionally but usually stick to 5 rounds. Like that second group posted on the other page. It was like under an 1 moa with 4 shots but if he just went ahead and included the 5th shot, it's still not that bad of a group and imho, more indicative of what the rifle shoots with that ammo. Not sure why we'd have to disagree about that. Although I see your point about making due with a certain load for your purposes. But there has to be a standard. And when you start loosening up that standard, all kind of claims can be had. Yeah, I shot 10 rounds and 3 of them were under half an inch. So I've got a sub moa group. LOL. |
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Posted: 8/22/2014 2:10:02 PM EDT
[#16]
I had a trigger job done on both the Mini 14 and Mini 30, and a strut for the Mini 14's pencil barrel. I still want to cyro treat the barrels.
Bought Geissele triggers for the ARs. BUIS and Aimpoint for one of the ARs. After market spending for the AR doesn't draw the ire like it does for the Mini. |
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Posted: 8/22/2014 5:21:20 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not arguing with you at all. If that's what works for you, then great. When I shoot for groups, I include them all. That's just how I do it. If I'm going to claim I did 1 MOA or 2 MOA, all the bullets in the group will be included. Just makes it simpler to me. People can claim all kinds of accuracy when they leave fliers out. Whether it was them or the ammo would be hard to know. Molon had some very good posts about all this and I'm sort of with him on it. Although he'd use 10 round groups. I have done that occasionally but usually stick to 5 rounds. Like that second group posted on the other page. It was like under an 1 moa with 4 shots but if he just went ahead and included the 5th shot, it's still not that bad of a group and imho, more indicative of what the rifle shoots with that ammo. Not sure why we'd have to disagree about that. Although I see your point about making due with a certain load for your purposes. But there has to be a standard. And when you start loosening up that standard, all kind of claims can be had. Yeah, I shot 10 rounds and 3 of them were under half an inch. So I've got a sub moa group. LOL. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I am not saying anything for or against minis. But the fact is, you can't just discount a flyer and call it a good group. A good group includes all the rounds fired. It's just that simple. For example, I use SK Standard Plus for practice ammo in my Anschutz. Both the rifle and myself can shoot a clean 200/200 score in prone position at 50m with high end match ammo. With Sk Standard Plus however i normally shoot a 196 to 198 as I can almost bet on getting 2 fliers per box of 50, which is about what I use with sighters included on a 40 shot A-23/5 target. It is however still very valuable practice however as I know where the shot should have went based on how things looked when the shot broke compared to the rest of the shots in the match. Consequently, when I shoot what should have been a 10 at 3 o'clock, and it lands as an 8 at 6 o'clock, it's pretty clear it was the ammo. However, I can get in two or three times as much practice for the same amount of Money using SK Std Plus at $5.50 per box, and it does not cut into the hard to find and much more higher grade match ammo that I'll use when the points actually matter. I shoot a lot and I've shot competitively off and on for the last 30 years, so YOUR ability to reliably call a shot may differ. ---- Now… with that said, when developing a load or when testing a lot of rimfire ammo, I'll shoot off the bench and use a scope to minimize any shooter error to further isolate what's due to the shooter and what's due to the rifle and load combination. I will also shoot at least two 5 shot groups of each load tested, and I will usually follow that up with three more 5 shot groups of the more promising loads in the second round of testing. That means I'll have five 5 round groups and 25 rounds of chrono data to compare when choosing a load. It's possible to shoot a lot of very good 3 round groups, it's harder to get good 5 round groups, and statistically, it's all but impossible to shoot five 5 round groups and not see at least 1 or 2 ammo related fliers if they are going to happen. ---- So in general theory I agree that flies are important, but they can be caused by both the shooter or the rifle/ammo combination, and a good shooter can usually tell the difference. Not arguing with you at all. If that's what works for you, then great. When I shoot for groups, I include them all. That's just how I do it. If I'm going to claim I did 1 MOA or 2 MOA, all the bullets in the group will be included. Just makes it simpler to me. People can claim all kinds of accuracy when they leave fliers out. Whether it was them or the ammo would be hard to know. Molon had some very good posts about all this and I'm sort of with him on it. Although he'd use 10 round groups. I have done that occasionally but usually stick to 5 rounds. Like that second group posted on the other page. It was like under an 1 moa with 4 shots but if he just went ahead and included the 5th shot, it's still not that bad of a group and imho, more indicative of what the rifle shoots with that ammo. Not sure why we'd have to disagree about that. Although I see your point about making due with a certain load for your purposes. But there has to be a standard. And when you start loosening up that standard, all kind of claims can be had. Yeah, I shot 10 rounds and 3 of them were under half an inch. So I've got a sub moa group. LOL. I agree with both of you, but with reservations. For example, I shoot some milsurp SA ammo. Mostly it's 2 MOA ammo, as one would expect. On occasion, there are inexplicable flyers. Now, I am no crack shot, but I DO know how to call my shots, and have done so many times to observers. So, when I shoot a 2 MOA pattern with SA ammo, and 2 shots go way outside the group (out of ten), I can call them, or they are ammo malfs. In the case of SA, most likely ammo malfs. I know the difference. Now, if someone has used carefully hand-loaded ammo, so that construction variables are reduced to a practical minimum, then I tend to listen a bit more. When I say my Mini-14 is a 2 MOA rifle, I have used carefully made ammo intended to replicate military ammo of the type that I can shoot in a wide variety of firearms, the Mini included, I have not yet made ammo specifically for my Mini. The ammo is verywell made, but not at all specific to any particular firearm. |
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Posted: 8/22/2014 5:24:54 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I had a trigger job done on both the Mini 14 and Mini 30, and a strut for the Mini 14's pencil barrel. I still want to cyro treat the barrels. Bought Geissele triggers for the ARs. BUIS and Aimpoint for one of the ARs. After market spending for the AR doesn't draw the ire like it does for the Mini. Cryo treating the pencil barrel Mini rids it of all heat-induced stresses. It will whip, but predictably, and uniformly. Bed the barreled action into a good syn stock, and go win some money. I did. |
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Posted: 8/23/2014 9:15:17 AM EDT
[#19]
I have both platforms. I like the AR for what is and it's Lego ability. The Mini I like for the wood stock Grand action. I have done work to both to make them to my liking. To me cost is not relevant. Had to save or sell to get what I want.
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Posted: 8/23/2014 9:07:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Had one for several years. Lightweight, handy, fun, and 100% reliable. It made a great short range blaster. Accuracy was mediocre but not terrible. Aside from being lighter it did nothing better than my AR-15 (but at least one thing worse), and after a few experiments with stocks it was sold. The proceeds went to furniture and an optic for the AR. I don't regret it one bit.
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Posted: 8/24/2014 10:44:46 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
On a rest, my Mini 14 was bought in 1978, it shoots but it's no AR, the sights were horrible. I go with a general grouping, disregard the flyers Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Good gun, reliable, not a tack driver. At 100 yards I can get on a 8X11 sheet of paper (man's torso) sometimes. Lots of flyers Standing offhand? LoL. Judging by the pics posted, that's what all the Mini fanboys do. But at least you are truthfull and acurate in your reporting.
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Posted: 8/26/2014 3:14:52 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: And one of the easiest to solve. The bottom portion of the gas block is located by the gas bushing, albeit somewhat loosely. Before torqueing the gas block, remove the upper portion. Move the bottom portion of the gas block fore and aft, and make pencil marks on the barrel marking the limits of its travel. Do the same while rotating the lower portion on the gas block clockwise and counter clockwise on the barrel, again marking the limits of travel. Re-assemble the upper and lower portions, and using NEW fasteners get everything finger tight while keeping the lower portion of the gas block evenly between the extreme limits of travel imposed by the gas bushing. Tighten the screws, little by little, keeping the lower portion of the gas block in position, and also keeping the gap between lower and upper portions of the gas block assembly even. Check this with a feeler gauge. For precision, use an in/lbs torque wrench (don't recall the figure) or use an educated couple of fingers. Tighten in an accepted pattern, and evenly. You should be GTG, even without a torque wrench. BTW, this is a good time to remove the OEM huge inner diameter gas bushing, and install a much smaller bushing. Your Mini will still work fine, but your brass won't be launched into orbit, nor will the op-rod be moved with quite so much violence. Muzzle velocity will go up a bit, (as will effective range) so plan on re-zeroing. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Its all in the hands of the shooter. Some people just cant shoot a mini-14 and they make the negative statements. I've seen a few damaged Minis, mostly the bore at the muzzle from improper cleaning technique, and also from loose fit of the barreled action in the stock. A lot of Mini owners don't know what is the correct weight of bullet for their barrel. Frankly, I've seen more unskilled shooters than damaged Minis. There is also the nagging problem that some of the Mini-14's have improperly torqued gas blocks. And one of the easiest to solve. The bottom portion of the gas block is located by the gas bushing, albeit somewhat loosely. Before torqueing the gas block, remove the upper portion. Move the bottom portion of the gas block fore and aft, and make pencil marks on the barrel marking the limits of its travel. Do the same while rotating the lower portion on the gas block clockwise and counter clockwise on the barrel, again marking the limits of travel. Re-assemble the upper and lower portions, and using NEW fasteners get everything finger tight while keeping the lower portion of the gas block evenly between the extreme limits of travel imposed by the gas bushing. Tighten the screws, little by little, keeping the lower portion of the gas block in position, and also keeping the gap between lower and upper portions of the gas block assembly even. Check this with a feeler gauge. For precision, use an in/lbs torque wrench (don't recall the figure) or use an educated couple of fingers. Tighten in an accepted pattern, and evenly. You should be GTG, even without a torque wrench. BTW, this is a good time to remove the OEM huge inner diameter gas bushing, and install a much smaller bushing. Your Mini will still work fine, but your brass won't be launched into orbit, nor will the op-rod be moved with quite so much violence. Muzzle velocity will go up a bit, (as will effective range) so plan on re-zeroing. You're right, it IS an easy fix. But, part of me wonders why Ruger shipped so many of them out like this. It's kinda like improperly staked gas keys in AR's. Its an easy fix, but its sloppy work on the manufacturer's part. |
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Posted: 8/26/2014 10:32:45 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
~ part of me wonders why Ruger shipped so many of them out like this. It's kinda like improperly staked gas keys in AR's. Its an easy fix, but its sloppy work on the manufacturer's part. Different guy running the company then with a different philosophy on how to do things. |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 2:32:02 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LoL. Judging by the pics posted, that's what all the Mini fanboys do. But at least you are truthfull and acurate in your reporting. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Good gun, reliable, not a tack driver. At 100 yards I can get on a 8X11 sheet of paper (man's torso) sometimes. Lots of flyers Standing offhand? LoL. Judging by the pics posted, that's what all the Mini fanboys do. But at least you are truthfull and acurate in your reporting.
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Posted: 8/27/2014 3:20:17 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LoL. Judging by the pics posted, that's what all the Mini fanboys do. But at least you are truthfull and acurate in your reporting. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Good gun, reliable, not a tack driver. At 100 yards I can get on a 8X11 sheet of paper (man's torso) sometimes. Lots of flyers Standing offhand? LoL. Judging by the pics posted, that's what all the Mini fanboys do. But at least you are truthfull and acurate in your reporting. Most shooters that are attempting to reduce the human element with regards the accuracy of a particular firearm make a point of shooting off a rest. Some, more accomplished shooters can perform the same task while shooting prone. Most folks give more credence to the use of a rest. My personal claims of 2 MOA accuracy from my personal pencil-barrel Mini are given using the prone position, with a light sling, using my non-specific, generic milsurp-replicant reloaded ammo. It's very good ammo, but made for all of my 5.56 rifles, and not tailored to the Mini. |
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Posted: 8/27/2014 7:15:34 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've never seen a 700 dollar Colt AR, but this guy hits the nail on the head. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: No, they're not that bad, but they are kind of pointless when you can buy $700 Colt ARs at Walmart. I've never seen a 700 dollar Colt AR, but this guy hits the nail on the head. I had one of the older stainless steel Minis. I think it was from the 161 series. Anyway, I put an accu-strut and a flash hider on it, and it shot decently enough, other than some horizontal stringing. But, when I needed money to convert my Saiga, I started looking around for things to sell. The Mini-14 was the first thing that came to mind. There is a gun forum that I can't remember the name of, that has a large Mini following. They have a huge section that talks about how you can make a Mini-14 more accurate. Thing is, by the time you spent all that money, you could have had an AR that shoots as well, if not better. There was nothing really WRONG with my Mini-14. But compared to a good AR, it comes up far short. That being said, if I moved to a state with funky gun laws where I couldn't own an AR but could own a Mini-14, I'd get one of the newer ones with thicker barrels and not think twice. |
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Posted: 8/28/2014 8:00:03 AM EDT
[#27]
Had a Mini14 back in the early 80s to go along with my M1 Garand and Carbine for similiar manual of arms. Seemed to remember the Mini being louder then the M1 Garand. Traded it for a more accurate 100 yd gun, my first Smith 6" M57 (did a lot of reloading and shooting with that revolver). One issue that is rarely looked it is spare parts. If your Mini bolt breaks, Ruger will only sell it to a gunsmith (good friend had a shop full of Mini's waiting new bolts), ARs every part is made by several companies.
CD |
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Posted: 8/29/2014 7:23:16 AM EDT
[#28]
I had 2 of them and they both sucked.
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Posted: 8/29/2014 8:24:34 AM EDT
[#29]
I owned a SS Mini 14 with fixed sights back in the mid 80's. I was shooting at a bowling pin at 100 yards and had great difficulty hitting the bowling pin from a sitting position. My friend had his first gen. Glock 17 sitting next to me. On his first try resting the pistol on a log he hit the bowling pin with a 9 MM cast hand loaded bullet. I set the bowling pin back up and still could not hit the pin. My buddy sat there and shot the bowling pin a second time from 100 yards with the Glock 17. Basically my Mini 14 could keep most rounds on a 9" paper plate at 100 yards but my buddies Glock could hit a bowling pin on every shot.
Typical performance from every Mini 14 I ever shot. Had I had any of my other rifles I could have hit the bowling pin 99% of the time. |
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