Anyone ever use JB Weld products to bed your rifles with wood stocks? I'd gladly use the products from Firearms dealers or Cabella's or Brownelles but I have a lot of JB Weld 2 part epoxy for wood, and another for metals, and a third I have at home is their SteelStik moldable puddy.

If you've used these, what would you use as a release agent on the reciever. How would you keep mix or puddy out of action and receiver areas? I've read people use release agents from shoe polish, vaseline and others. To seal the action some have said to use modeling clay.

I've used JB for years on countless applications and love it.

One rifle I want to do is a sporterized Remington 1903A3. The stock is in beautiful shape but the last owner butchered the inside openings where the receiver seats and the other side where the magazine/triger plate slides in. The seat is uneven and I've had some issues of the barrel walking from side to side, even after evenly torquing the two screws and using blue LockTite. He chizzeled seating area's unevenly and I felt beding would be my best option. My only other concern would be if the seats are level between reciever to wood stock areas.

Is there a video a/o step by step on bedding you can recommend? Perhaps on AR15.com boards?

Best regards and many thanks.

Car wax and play dough

Funny you mention Play Dough, I just watched a vid of a guy using that on his Rem 700 SPS stock. I'll have to raid my grand sons toy box I guess

Never personally done it. Just seen those two used a number of times. Double check with those smarter than I first.

That would be most people in the precision rifle threads

I use/used devcon 10110, but I bet JB weld would work.

The shrink rate is something like 10,000th of a percent.

I've never used jb weld for a heavy recoiling rifle, but I have bedded a 10/22 and a Savage .223 and both worked fine.  Both rifles had accuracy problems due to loose inletting, and the bedding fixed them.  I used car wax as a release agent and plumbers putty to block off areas I didn't want bedded.

I've used JB to bed my synthetic stocked .308 and its worked fine. Car wax not buffed and 2-3 good coats for release. Do NOT count on grease or oil to do the job (please don't ask how I came to know this).  Modeling clay, wax or whatever you have can work to keep the epoxy from going where you don't want it.

In my case I let the epoxy set for an hour or so and then pulled the action for cleanup. The epoxy wasn't 100% hard at that point so a sharp knife was enough for some of the leakage. Be sure to think about how your going to keep the action/barrel from sinking into the stock or shifting around while things set up.

Devcon.  Your choice, pro-steel, aluminum, or titanium.  Get some mold release or use carnauba wax, several coats.

Have bedded several rifles with JB Weld and Kiwi Shoe Polish.

JB-Weld will work without any problems, it is a very strong, stable epoxy that can withstand a fair amount of abuse. Heavier than most of the bedding specific epoxies.

I've used JB weld to bed actions. Also cooking spray as a release agent...works great.

I've used JB Weld and shoe polish, never had a problem.  Works great.

I just use a Brownells Accragel kit.  It works great, isn't expensive and comes with dye.  I have used JB weld with success, but just prefer the Accragel.

I've used JB Weld plenty of times for bedding rifles and it works great.

I've used acarglas, miles gilbert, devcon and jb weld Iprefer the JB weld.

I have even drilled and tapped JB-Weld with excellent success.

It takes a solid 24 hours to cure enough to handle, I would wait a week before putting the weapon into service to allow a full cure to develop.

I used JB to bed an M1A in a GI fiberglass stock. Non-hardening modeling clay for blocking material and Kiwi neutral for release agent. All worked great.

Used JB weld and Johnsons floor wax to bed a 10/22 and a mosin.  Worked great.

The best stuff I have found for making a "dam" or to fill areas where you do NOT want any bedding is plain 'ol rope caulk.Unlike clay and other stuff the rope caulk almost always comes out in one piece when it's time to remove it and leaves very little residue to clean up.

Good info.

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu75.htm

This is what I've used, Devon, a good carnauba wax, and cheap non drying model clay.



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Guys, i've prepped the rifle stock in question. Sanded and stained the Walnut stock, as I was doing this I was thinking about recoil once I'm done with the glass bedding. I chose to go with Marine Tex with brown coloring agent. I''ve also purchased playdoh to block off where I don't want bedding material and I have PAM cooking spray as release agent.

The person who sporterized this rifle had gotten a little chizzle or file happy and left a 5/16" gap between the back of the tang and wood stock. The screw holes front and back are also too wide. So, I was thinking, do I apply the Marine Tex under the tang and as welll as in back of tang? To do so I'm thinking could cause the material, or worse the wood stock to crack upon recoil. Perhaps leave this area alone?

I looked through TM9-1270 thinking there was a section on bedding the 1903a3 but couldn't locate it. I also checked the CMP forums for a visual aid and didn't see it. Any thoughts here?

As far as how far to bed the barrel to the stock, I've read several opinions. One opinion is to apply bedding material on the stock up to the point of the center of gravity of the barrel, roughly 2/3rds length of stock. Others say only bed 1-2 inches in front of the barrel lug, leaving the rest free floating.

I am taking pics along the way and will post as soon as I can.

Also, in the front reciever and tang mounting holes, would you advise glassing pillars where the screws mount through?

One area I seem stuck on is when I'm ready to apply the bedding, do I install and mount the Magazine/trigger guard and install screws, then lightly torque? How would I keep bedding from dripping down into magazine well area and getting into the magazine? My other question is after the bedding is placed onto stock, I will have roughly a 1/16th" gap between barrel lug and wood, would this not create a gap now between the bottom of reciever and magazine housing?

Just seen the Box o truth link, that answers a lot of questions. I do have concerns about the screw holes though. Looks like pillars would take care of over sized holes in wood

Why didn't I think of rope caulk? I have a whole box of the strips left over from my auto mechanic days.