Author
Message
Lckydevl
Offline
Posts: 185
Feedback: 100% (7)
Posted: 10/19/2002 2:14:30 PM

I heard from an older gentleman. That they used to put a little "toothpaste" on the trigger parts of a new rifle or pistol to smooth it out or break it in quicker. It was left on long enough for a regular days shooting and then cleaned off during the regular after-shoot cleaning they did.

Anybody else hear of this practice?

Bumblebee_Bob
Team Member
Offline
Posts: 2292
Feedback: 100% (13)
Link To This Post
Posted: 10/19/2002 8:42:10 PM
I've never heard anything like that.

But if the toothpaste had pumice or something like that in it, it might work.
Tom (Selleck): Let's just say that I disagree with you but I think you're being stupid.
DPeacher
Offline
Posts: 1061
Feedback: 100% (5)
Link To This Post
Posted: 10/19/2002 8:59:25 PM
Most "old school" toothpastes like pepsodent or crest are slightly abrasive. You can test it by putting some on your finger tip and rubbing on a clear plastic drinking cup. It will put microscopic scratches in the plastic. Gell toothpastes won't do it, but they will keep a scuba mask from fogging...

I bet the gentleman is correct.
A_Free_Man
Offline
Posts: 582
Feedback: 100% (1)
Link To This Post
Posted: 10/19/2002 10:56:41 PM
Right you are. Colgate was a good rubbing compound, used by guys that would build plastic model cars. After painting, rub out with Colgate, and then wax for a trophy winning finish.

I apply a plastic polishing compound (Kit Scratch Out) to the sear surfaces, and cock and release the hammer about 20 times, apply more, repeat. (When doing this, put a piece of leather or rubber in front of the hammer where it would strike the front of the receiver)

Then I remove the hammer and trigger, clean thoroughly, and replace. Lube it all up, and you now have a very smooth trigger.
raf
Offline
Posts: 6606
Feedback: 100% (14)
Link To This Post
Posted: 10/20/2002 8:37:25 AM
[Last Edit: 10/20/2002 8:38:38 AM by raf]
You can speed up this process greatly by using the proper shape and grades of stones first, and then use the proper grades of rubbing/polishing compound, in the correct sequence, later.
In my experience, and starting with new or undamaged old components, a trigger job on a Mauser-type trigger ought to take no more than a couple of hours. With a little luck, much less.
If you are not mechanically inclined, or lack the tools/patience to do it right, there are any number of aftermarket drop-in trigger assemblies that will smooth things out greatly.
Just avoid the temptation to buy a trigger that has too light a let-off pressure for your intended purpose. Most rifles, for safety's sake, ought not to have triggers any less than 4.5-5 lbs, IMHO.
"The M1 Rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised." General George S. Patton Jr.,US Army
FALARAK
Team Member
Offline
Posts: 1573
Feedback: 100% (133)
Link To This Post
Posted: 10/20/2002 11:06:53 PM
- Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
nailbender
Offline
Posts: 388
Feedback: 0% (0)
Link To This Post
Posted: 10/21/2002 12:06:27 AM
Be sure to not alter any dimesions on the hammer or trigger, the idea is to polish not remove metal.
THe first time I did this I ruined my hammer!!!!!!!!!!!!

To lighten your trigger pull, bend the legs of the hammer spring at about a 30 to 60 degree angle. It will take some experimenting depending on how stiff your spring is.
Here I would have new spring on hand in case you ruin the original!

You also have to be careful not to reduce the hammer spring tension to far or you will get light primer strikes and missfires.
I did this on my rifle and have only had one missfire with XM193, but if I needed the rifle for a serious occasion and had enough advance warning I would put in my stock spare spring.

Lee