Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Posted: 1/6/2017 11:34:39 PM EDT
Watched a handful of youtube videos and ended up using some Aluma-Hyde on some parts.  Heat parts, spray, bake, spray, bake, spray, bake, etc.

The finish turned out OK, its drab as hell, but it has a sandpaper finish.  Like my wife's emery boards.  Its not a show stopper, but I certainly didn't get the smooth finish I've seen on videos.  Part of me likes the grippiness, on the other hand, the parts are going to collect A LOT of dust, clothing fibers, and anything else they rub up against.  Durability-wise, its complete crap.  Stored one gun next to another in the safe, and already have rub marks down to the annodizing.  Parts were baked at the end, and then allowed to sit in warm open air (garage, summer time) for 14 days to fully cure before they were touched or stored.

I am going to do some Krylon jobs and shoot Aluma clear over it for chemical resistance.  I've given up on true abrasion resistance.  Not really wanting a clear sandpaper finish, I might just shoot and let air dry.

Any tips on using this stuff most welcome.
Link Posted: 1/7/2017 12:11:01 PM EDT
[#1]
At first blush, I'm a guessin' you're spraying the paint from too far away, and that's causing it to partially dry before it contacts the surface you're painting. This is usually referred to as "dry spray". It can also be caused by painting something that is too hot to paint, or using a paint that is reduced for colder conditions in an environment that's too hot for the reducer. I'm also a guessin' that you're using poof cans, so that last bit is not likely to be the cause in this instance.

Try painting the surfaces a little "wetter" (i.e. more paint) next time. The first coat should be a light fogging to enhance paint adhesion with the surface, subsequent coats should appear a bit heavier, and a bit shinier each time with more coverage upon spraying. A bunch of light coats could cause the dry look too. Paint in really good light and you can watch the paint lay down on the piece and you will quickly develop a "feel" for how the paint is laying out. Practice a bit on some scrap pieces to see what I'm talking about, and I'm sure somebody else will be along shortly with additional insight.

I don't get the idea of multiple sprayings and heat curing, must be an internet thing. Alumahyde was never meant to be baked, Brownells suggests 90* as the optimal application temp, and doesn't seem to reccommend baking at all. Plus Alumahyde should be recoated within 30 minutes of air drying or it starts to cure, and subsequent applications may not adhere properly. That could be at play here too. I normally Duracoat, and am starting Cerakote on the round, but Alumahyde is one of the better spray can finishes and should work out well for you.
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top