Who has had long term success painting plastic stocks preferably Ruger rim fire plastic stocks and what process did you use ?

I have been told the following by various individuals:
pre treat with Bull Dog paint adhesion promoter and rattle can with Krylon Fusion. Take it to a Ceracote shop that is experienced in coating polymer handguns. Lightly sand blast then wash in MEK paint with Fusion then immediately paint with Plasti Dip. Fork out the money for a professional Hydo Dip.  Not so crazy about the hydro dip because touch ups are reputedly a bitch and this rifle is no range queen it gets used in the field.

A durable finish is good, permanent is better. Whittling a new stock out of 2x4 with a rusty butter knife is better than looking at what's it now.

Any suggestions before I raid the kitchen for cutlery ?
 

I've only painted AR15's (the whole rifle, stock and all) and M1A stocks/handguards.

For the plastic parts I wipe off twice with rubbing alcohol and a lint free cloth and let dry.

Then I paint with Krylon camo colors.

Are you doing one color?  Or a camo pattern?

For patterns I've base painted one color, used jaggedly torn strips of the blue painters tape applied to the gun/stock and then sprayed with a different color.  Sort of a tiger stripe look.



I've used a base color, let it dry, then wrapped string/wire around the stock, painted another color and let dry, then removed some of the wire/string and painted a third color.

The end result (pattern and color) will determine the order of the colors you spray.  More a picture of the cat (who had just run the other cat away from the gun) than the AR15, but it shows the pattern/colors.



You can experiment on cardboard sheets/boxes or 2X4's to get an idea of the color/colors you want and the patterns.

Clean with paint thinner/acetone/heavy alcohol.  Allow to dry.  Krylon Fusion is great on its own, my experience with adhesion promoter on other plastic things I've painted made really little to no difference.

Do a very light basecoat, allow to dry, then coat again, and again.  If you are able to faintly see the plastic still after the first coat you are doing it right.  If they are thin and able to dry you'll get much better durability.  The flatter the finish(ultra flat Krylon) the better top coats will adhere to it as well.

Also, I used a matte clear enamel by Rustoleum, not a poly spray.

Ruger American .308:

Sandblasting helps.

Degrease is required.

Obviously, CeraKote or DuraCoat is going to be better than Krylon, but Krylon is alright. Multiple light coats followed by a couple coats of clear is what I would recommend for rattlecan.

Krylon works better than you would think . I have a gun that has 15 year old Krylon on it . It has nicks and dings from use , It has been in 4-5 classes . and used to teach new shooters. I have an M1a stock that is about 6 years old . base coat green and used blue tape to make the patterns in other brown and black . worked well

Thanks.