Whether or not you use a solvent to help remove the polish residue that has crept into the innards of the revolver, you will never be certain that you have removed all of it.  Perhaps a chunk will be jarred loose at the wrong moment and gum up your revolver, perhaps at a bad moment, with possibly very bad results.

In addition, soaking the revolver in solvents will also remove any lubrication present, with long-term negative consequences.

I suggest buying the appropriate shop manual by Kuhnhausen, dismantling, the pistol, and giving it a thorough cleaning and lubing.  The manual will show you how to do it, step-by-step.  naturally, any internal mods should be considered, and purchased after reading the manual, and before dismantling.  Kuhnhausen is very detailed, and the best at what he does.  While we wait for a shop manual on your specific pistol, this one, for its' immediate ancestors should serve you well:http://www.gunbooks.com/ruger.html.  DO shop around for prices, though.

Anything other than dismantling cleaning, and properly re-lubing is an inadequate response to the situation..

Might be a DVD, I dunno.

I think that as far as the firing pin goes, flooding it with solvent, and giving it plenty of time--and in the right orientation--to drain, and then flooding it with the appropriate liquid lube, will be OK.  Allow the liquid lube time to drain, of course.

Carb cleaner is intended to dissolve and remove carbon deposits.  Other spray solvents often used are such things as Brake-Kleen (SP?), which is intended to be sprayed on metal brake rotors and drums to remove oil deposits.  Both are very hostile to lots of plastics, but in its stripped condition, this should not be a problem for your revolver.

Take a look at the list of ingredients of the polish you used, and see what the medium was used to make the particles of polish a paste might be.  Might even be water, who knows?  Ideally, you want as gentle a solvent that will dissolve the polish and carry it away.  You could also experiment on lumps of the polish, and find out what dissolves it.  Use that.  In any event, it is unlikely a lot of the polish made its way into the firing pin recess, so repeatedly flooding it, letting it sit, and purging the residue should do the trick as far as cleaning it goes.  I would definitely recommend a light oil, and CLP specifically as the lube of choice for firing pins such as yours.  It might be worth your while to buy some cans of compressed air if you do not have ready access to an air compressor.

Generally speaking, oils such as CLP for rotating surfaces, such as found in the trigger group of your revolver, and grease for sliding surfaces such as the sear and so forth.  I [b]STRONGLY[/b[ urge you to use modern, synthetic oils and greases that will not congeal in low temps.  CLP is fine for your purposes, and once you have purged the offending polish, a little bit of oil or grease goes a long way.  don't over-lube, as such attracts and holds dirt.

While you have the thing apart, give some thought to smoothing any surfaces, such as the pivot points of the trigger, hammer, and sear parts that might show some wear/roughness/rubbing marks.  Under good light, and possibly with a magnifying glass, you will see where rotating components are possibly wearing/scuffing against the stationary sides of the frame.  Don't touch the trigger/sear/hammer engagement surfaces.  Some very fine sandpaper will do the trick.  You just want to take off the high points, so a little bit of roughness left (some small depressions in the metal) will be all right, and also ensure you do not take off too much metal.  The Kuhnhausen manuals mentioned above will show you how to do this safely.  They are really great books, and well worth every cent spent on them.  Although not for your specific pistol, the instructions therein will still be applicable to your revolver; there is a certain "family" resemblance between most Ruger double-action revolvers.  BUY the BOOK, read it, and come back with questions.

Your revolver was intended as a short-range self-defense firearm.  It was NOT intended to be a single-hole puncher at the target range.  I would strongly caution you against replacing ANY of the OEM springs.  Unless obviously damaged, leave them alone, and resist the urge to buy some sort of trigger package, even from a good spring-maker such as Wolff.

Short story:  Buy the book.  Some gentle smoothing of the pivot points of rotating parts will give remarkable results.  A smooth, clean trigger feels a LOT lighter than it really is.  Be patient, and be thorough.

With a little bit of effort on your part, your revolver will be much better than when you started.

BUY THE BOOK!
 

Glad to help.  Part of my job here.  I have done everything I have recommended on my own SP101, to very good effect.