Here is how I run my setup. This Rifle is a Noveske 14.5 M4A1 Blk 2 upper and is my Night shooting gun I run at any TNVC NightFighter class or Demo night we do for LE agencys as well as shoothouse stuff.

I run a MAWL, and primarily I utilize the buttons on the MAWL to work the Laser/Illuminator however I do find that when in awkward positions while prone or shooting around barricades the TAPS standard switch invaluable because I cannot always reach out to  the end of the gun or I am using a shoulder switching technique to conform to cover. in addition if I think I will be needing white light I can shift my hand to the TAPS and have white light or Laser function in a CQB scenario, I practice both techniques and they work for me YMMV.

you'll notice I am using the Lasers controls for this video. This is a way not the only way, find a way that works for you the vast majority of the time.

Light and laser setups are definitely personal choices.  There's a lot to consider when deciding on weapon accessories.  But everything should be able to trace back to what the devices need to do.  All devices on a gun need to be able to be activated immediately.  I've played with different configurations for years and finally stopped at this one.  I've attached a pic of two carbines with different lasers, but the same control setup.



For a long time, I tried to get away from using pressure switches.  Like many, I had bad experiences with them breaking, coming loose, snagging, etc.  But the only constant is change and I have since learned embrace the dual pressure switch.  But, not just any old dual pressure witch will do.  It needs to be the right one (do you feel the sales pitch coming on yet?).  All kidding aside, let's take look at some basic tenants of weapon electronic accessories.

1. An Infrared Laser needs to have an Infrared Illuminator.  And, they both need to have the ability to activate at the same time.  The For this reason, I'm not a huge fan of separate, dual spectrum lights.  There is not a convenient way to activate both the light and laser at the same time.  They require independent activation. 
   
2. The white light needs to be able to activate immediately, regardless of the laser condition.  This is another reason I don't favor illuminator/light combos.  And, it's the main reason I HATE laser/light combo units like the PEQ-16.  Whoever came up with that idea had never been in a gunfight.  If you need white light, you need it now.  And yes; there's plenty of reason to go white light under NVG's.  But, this isn't a night fighter class.  Suffice to say you need to access white light immediately.
3. Ambidextrous controls.  Pretty self explanatory.

One of the things we need to worry about is rail space.  All of this stuff takes up space and we need to fit it all because it has need.  So, here is what I arrived at.  I put the laser at the 12 and the light at the 3.  From there, I put a standard TAPS switch on top of the rail with the light-actuating button forward.  As a right handed shooter, this setup gives me two options for activating devices.  I can use TAPS solely to activate light and laser, or I can activate the laser with onboard controls and the light with the TAPS switch.  My primary carbine is the one with the MAWL, so the form-factor really lends itself to onboard activation.  But, the PEQ15 isn't hard to do either. 

When/if I have to switch to offhand, I still have 100% ability and access to controls for both devices.  Now, a good point about moving hand and grip to actuate devices was brought up.  But, I actually see this as a good thing.  One of the major things I harp on my students about is to make sure that everything about your gun needs to be deliberate.  This includes the trigger, safety, mag release, bolt release, light and laser.  Negligent discharge of light or laser can be just as bad as a negligent bullet.  The whole point of working at night is to use stealth to your advantage.  The negligent discharge of white light or laser can completely compromise the op.  To this end, I want to move my hand or grip in order to activate the devices.  This ensures I won't accidentally press a button under stress.



Now on to the sales pitch: TAPS solves several issues with dual pressure switches.

1. The unit actually bolts onto the rail system rather than pop on.  One of the biggest complaints people have with the current rail mount switches is that they don't stay on the rail.  Since they are soft flexible rubber, they tend to pop off the rail, become brittle, or flex, etc.  This is obviously not good.  TAPS has hardware that bolts the unit directly to the rail so it doesn't come off. 
   
2. The cables are OEM from Surefire and Steiner.  One of the problems with the SR07-DIT switch is that it uses OEM L-3 cables.  These are great if you're using an ATPIAL.  But, the L-3 plugs don't fully seat in a Steiner laser.  So, they tend to back out under recoil.  Steiner plugs will fully seat in both Steiner and L3 lasers - thus TAPS is more universal.