User Panel
On the purge, yeah it's about moisture fogging lenses. Where I live (SE) purging is an absolute necessity, for patrolling through the Carolinas, Georgia, Fla, etc. For others in drier climes, maybe not so much. Don't know if argon would work, but I guess as long as you are displacing the O2 which attracts the water/moisture, you'd be GTG. Only one way to find out.
The DIY route will work, and it's a lot off fun, but you gotta be careful. Easy to get burned. I would get the best tube I could afford, and then find other ways to save bucks. On the system set up, a good bump helmet (or night cap) will get you up and running. A VAS shroud, Rhino II mount, and old style J-arm (with ball detents) will finish the set up. Trimming an older PASGT helmet might not be such a good idea. It's a huge task and most I've seen look like ass. If you do, make sure and cut the brim off the front so the shroud will mount and Rhino II has plenty of room to articulate. The Ops Core bump helmet will get you up and running, or if you want ballistic, the Revision A3 series is a nice economical set up. |
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Thanks for the info,
I ended up getting a Rhino II titanium mount that came with the helmet base plate for $40 on ebay. I seen two types of J-arms.... One was more flat and mentioned picatinny for rifle mounting so assumed that wasnt the one I needed and so got the one with the curve in the arm..... Hope I got the right one. I would post a pic but they never show up when I do. I also ordered polymer arc rails, I may just end up keeping it in pasgt format , havent decided yet. Im more than capable of doing the mods and equipped to do it.... Im a welder/fabricator.... worked in fiberglass and autobody before and good with these types of projects and have all the tools but still trying to decide if the effort and time would be worth it. I didnt order a VAS shroud yet because the rhino II came with the issued mount and want to see if it will be useable first. Although....if I do trim the helmet, I think the mount plate would sit down too low once I trimmed the brim off. Ill have to see once I have all the parts in hand. thanks again! |
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If any mods read this.... It says I cant post a message over 2000 characters cause Im a new member (joined 5 years ago)
I think this is why my pics dont show up either. Do I have to reach a certain post count or something? EDIT..... YEP it was 50 posts |
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Those are the correct rhino 2 and j arm
Your pvs 14 attaches to the j arm J arm attaches to Rhino Arm Rhino Arm attaches to helmet shroud As for buying new or used I have a pvs 14 housing with a MX-10160C tube it works amazing no blems high spec I use this with a tarsier eclipse so I can auto focus and also I can adjust the amount of light to my image if it's to bright when in lit areas I have 2 -pvs 7 with MX-10130 D/UV tubes very nice tubes in both units right on par with my pvs 14 I built 1 pvs 7 for my brother The other I traded a custom glock w accessories for to get my dad into a pvs 7 Many guys scream they can't afford these things ect in my case I had so many guns from collecting that it was easy to trade and haggle into We have 3 blems free units autogated that perform awesome and it cost very little compared to what I see people drop on new units I would not hesitate myself so long as I could inspect the tube beforehand to trade into another unit So far we are all extremely pleased with what we got That rhino 2 is the best budget tough as nails mount option out there |
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That mount will not work with a PASGT with a brim, but the mount you need is 12.00 PM me if you need a link (non sponsor here). Also there is a member here that is selling some nice Ceradyne/Max Pro high cut gunfighter helmets for 225. You have to drill a hole for your mount, but that is fairly easy to do.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_90/1630195_WTS--Ceradyne-MaxPro-Armor-Gunfighter--High-Cut--IIIA-ballistic-helmet.html#top |
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One more ?
Do they sell those VAS style airsoft mounting plates in steel or aluminum? Are the $15 airsoft ones trash? |
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One more ? Do they sell those VAS style airsoft mounting plates in steel or aluminum? Are the $15 airsoft ones trash? View Quote |
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That mount can be made to work if you bend the tabs I would avoid airsoft mounts when legit mounts are so cheap
Also I've cut a helmet it's no fun lol I had a pasgt style helmet a geflechtshelm and high cut it and used the exact rhino 2 bracket you have on it without bending the tabs works great |
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That mount can be made to work if you bend the tabs I would avoid airsoft mounts when legit mounts are so cheap Also I've cut a helmet it's no fun lol I had a pasgt style helmet a geflechtshelm and high cut it and used the exact rhino 2 bracket you have on it without bending the tabs works great View Quote Any recommendations for which route would go the best? Im going to wait untill my arc rails arrive and trace out the lines, then hit the trim molding with a heat gun and try to get it off in one piece. Then ill trim it with recommended process, apply fiberglass resin to exposed cut ends.... reapply trim with epoxy....attach arc rails....etc. I have a 4 point harness and cushion kit i installed years ago, hopefully it will all go back together decently. Ive seen those headphone comms attatched with adaptors for the arc rail and when you press in on them...they click and snug in against your ears. Id like to put together a cheap set of those that will work with my baofeng dual band handhelds. Any suggestions to make that happen? Thanks |
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I marked it based on a gunfighter I had on hand then put it in a vice and took a saw zaw to it it has to be clamped good if you go this route or it will flex and wanna move ....even with a saw zaw it was a huge pain to do it although it came out well from there I sealed the ends then Rhino lined the helmet added arc rails , pads ect
You can get the knock off peltor adapters and with a little work modify them for most hearing protection I have a pair of Howard Leights for mine. I more did this as a DIY project for fun just to see if I could do it. My brother did the same we both enjoy our self made high cut helmets and we abuse them quite often and treat them like there disposable. Another option you might consider is a cheap bump helmet like a pt bravo half shell if your just using it for roaming. I live in southern Louisiana very humid and hot so something that breathes that can take a knock is more important to me then something that can stop fragments or a random pistol round. It is cool doing a gunfighter helmet yourself though and a great conversation piece. I chose the saw zaw because I was eating through my dremel blades |
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I have experimented with some Chinese clone shrouds & mounts, due to the real things not being very available in the EU. Almost all are worse than trash. But one repro Wilcox 3 hole aluminium one was quite OK. Not using it, nor a repro mount, but I could trust the shroud with a monocular in light use.
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Thanks guys for all your experiences with cutting these helmets and using the airsoft shrouds!
I thought about using my angle grinder and cutoff disk but now thinking it may just get to hot and burn the kevlar.... sounds like a skillsaw/sawz-all is the way to go. I assume a blade for metal is the way to go to not fray the material too bad. Ill try and use the included mount but might go for the legit vas shroud...we will see. I think Im going to go ahead and high cut it. Id like to mount hearing protection. I know nothing about the hearing protection or even the terminology tied to it. Im looking for a budget friendly set of hearing muffs that can clamp to arc rails and have an input for my handheld 2 way ham radios. I dont need the mic but at least input for the com audio....anything budget friendly like this exist...and if so....what search term to use? Thanks again guys! |
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My brother ended up using a grinder with a cutting wheel to get his cuts straight he recommends it I got lucky my first go with the saw everything was straight
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Have my pvs-14 housing coming fri, Seen some decent ITT omni VII autogated thin filmed mx11769/uvs for sale.... I didnt have $1000 for the one I wanted with a couple small blemish specs.... but they were starting to sell so grabbed a $700 one which is all the budget allowed. Dont laugh guys...Pretty big blemishes but they are somewhat transparent and at least not smack dab in the middle. This isnt going to be a spec ops unit ....just building my first beater and I like to build things myself cheap so its for the experience as well. That said... Any idea about this type of damage? Hopefully it will not get worse. I know the blemishes will make alot of you cringe but for 1/3rd of the price of a new tube.... it will be ok for me. https://preview.ibb.co/m4xDiF/s_l1600_3.jpg View Quote |
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This has been an informative thread. I've had a Gen I Optic a long time now (ATM Aries MK 258). It doesn't get much use where I live now but in rural areas I have used it to shoot rats and mice at night. I believe it is illegal to use here in PA for hunting - including furbearers.
The difference in my Optic to these newer ones makes it tempting to upgrade but if I did a monuclular setup is what I would use with a NV comparable Optic like the EOTECH. Then you get more use out of the NV investment. |
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Have my pvs-14 housing coming fri, Seen some decent ITT omni VII autogated thin filmed mx11769/uvs for sale.... I didnt have $1000 for the one I wanted with a couple small blemish specs.... but they were starting to sell so grabbed a $700 one which is all the budget allowed. Dont laugh guys...Pretty big blemishes but they are somewhat transparent and at least not smack dab in the middle. This isnt going to be a spec ops unit ....just building my first beater and I like to build things myself cheap so its for the experience as well. That said... Any idea about this type of damage? Hopefully it will not get worse. I know the blemishes will make alot of you cringe but for 1/3rd of the price of a new tube.... it will be ok for me. https://preview.ibb.co/m4xDiF/s_l1600_3.jpg View Quote |
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Have my pvs-14 housing coming fri, Seen some decent ITT omni VII autogated thin filmed mx11769/uvs for sale.... I didnt have $1000 for the one I wanted with a couple small blemish specs.... but they were starting to sell so grabbed a $700 one which is all the budget allowed. Dont laugh guys...Pretty big blemishes but they are somewhat transparent and at least not smack dab in the middle. This isnt going to be a spec ops unit ....just building my first beater and I like to build things myself cheap so its for the experience as well. That said... Any idea about this type of damage? Hopefully it will not get worse. I know the blemishes will make alot of you cringe but for 1/3rd of the price of a new tube.... it will be ok for me. https://preview.ibb.co/m4xDiF/s_l1600_3.jpg View Quote Almost bought that tube... Oh well... Aside from the streaks it should be ok. They might get better with time, but maybe not. I figure anyone selling surp tubes like this knows all about the sock drawer trick. |
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Ordered my housing kit from UNV... Missed out on a milspec omni vi mx10160 for $650 with medium blem spot in outer zone 2. I kept trying to haggle on price and someone swooped in on it Spent all night and allday ocd obsessing over getting it too Oh well, I got the new housing kit coming and going to throw some crap on ebay to fund a tube. I have a PASGT helmet that im thinking about trimming into a high cut. Then add some side rails. So whats my cheapest mounting option thats decent? I think im just going to go with rhino II ...its cheap and plentiful right? Can you guys help me with a list of what I need to get this mounted? Shroud, rhino II, j-arm.... is that it? View Quote |
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The seller I got my tube from has 15-20 more up for sale. I coulda got the one for $1100 with tiny almost invisible blemishes but would of been riding a bike to work next week and eating ramon noodles....lmao
He is pretty knowledgeable on tubes and NV in general. Said he had to do alot of legwork to get a good source for these tubes. Said some are factory rejects and some are warranty swaps. He said mine was a factory reject but does to me look like a dual flourescent shop light burn but maybe not, I dont know. Should I do the aluminum foil and drawer/closet trick? Just leave it on 24 hours? He said he had like 20 more tubes to go through and test before he could post them. Makes me want to build another one already lol. So.... do you guys think I will be safe using the argon/co2 welding gas for purge? Im going to cut my PASGT to FAST style, ordered rails that were suppossed to be from US but coming from china :/ Was just looking at a velcro set, lanyard, and some moral patches but not sure yet if I want to paint/velcro the helmet....or try a FAST cover with velcro already on the slip cover. Got my Rhino II Titanium in today. Pretty Impressed with it, ach mounting plate, Rhino II , longer screw/washer/locknut, and laminated user guide card, all brand new for $40! J- arm and pvs-14 milspec kit should arrive tomorrow.....omni vii mx11769/uv should be here next week sometime.....getting excited! |
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I don't think Co2 would be a good idea for purging since it'll introduce moisture to your NODs. Canned air that is not held at an angle would probably be best or try to get one of the guys from Costco's tire department to use a very low PSI to purge your PVS 14 inside of a clear plastic bag. Another option is a paintball store since they also use N2o for their air systems.
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Its worth trying just tape over the front of the cap and put it in a dark box. I doubt it will fix those burns tho. Worst case you are out the cost of a few batteries.
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Its worth trying just tape over the front of the cap and put it in a dark box. I doubt it will fix those burns tho. Worst case you are out the cost of a few batteries. View Quote side note..... I popped a rechargeable aa in it and it seemed to work fine...is this ok? |
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Quick question.... Should I try leaving it on in dark lockbox with cap on for a while to see if it lessens the image burn blem? Or does this not work? Worth trying? If so.... should i leave gain all the way down/up/middle/ does it matter? Thanks View Quote Layers of defense against light work well if you do not have a light tight container - some foil over the objective, wrap the unit in a dark shirt, put it in a tool box and put the tool box in a dark closet. If you have any light leakage during burn in then you will incur a different burn. You especially do not want a pinhole burn in the center of the FOV. |
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Overnight. Just leave it. If you think it helped some but it did not get it all then leave it on for the next day. If you see no improvement at all after 8 hours then it is probably permanent.
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Checked it this morning after about 6 hours of sleep. Didnt see a difference. Oh well lol
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