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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:58:02 PM EDT
[#1]
Does it have corrosion in the battery compartment ?
If so the battery compartment is sealed from the rest of the unit. I would brush it out good and rinse with baking soda and some water. Let it dry thoroughly. Sounds like corrosion on the contacts. Worst case is you need to replace the front housing if this does not work. Any competent dealer can work on a 7. Ed Wilcox or TNVC would be my first choice. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 10:14:17 PM EDT
[#2]
The strange thing is even if the tube fails to power up, if you pull and turn the knob to the IR light position the red light comes on in the corner, so Im guessing that the batteries are contacting well. Is there a way the check the voltage to the tube? I've unscrewed the front off the unit and inspected the tube and contacts but havent made an attempt to check the voltage to the tube.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 10:21:10 PM EDT
[#3]
Well if the IR light is coming on the problem is not with the battery compartment. Just pull the tube out and check for 3 volts across the contact pins. Your problem might need a pro to sort out if it is not something simple
Very hard to help without the unit in hand. I can only give you common faults. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 10:37:01 PM EDT
[#4]
Ten4, ill check the voltage and get back to you. Thanks for the help Dino.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 11:24:21 PM EDT
[#5]
Steady 3 volts at the contacts. Well does anyone local to the board do tube work or should I just look for a replacement tube?
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Posted: 2/27/2017 11:31:46 PM EDT
[#6]
Scott Pruitt from Summit Night Vision worked on my PVS-7B(D). Turned out my cap had bad contacts, so it wasn't turning on. Give him a call.
http://www.summitnightvision.com/ |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 10:41:23 AM EDT
[#7]
Since you have it apart, Hope you have the ability to purge and refill with nitrogen.
1. Are you sure you have installed the tube correctly, and that the front lens is screwed down tight? 2. The posts that contact the tube are supposed to be spring loaded. Check that, if one, or both of them are not moving because of corrosion, that might be the source of the problem. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 11:32:49 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Since you have it apart, Hope you have the ability to purge and refill with nitrogen. Some people take this overboard. If you have it apart and back together 10 times troubleshooting it, then the only time you have to worry about purging it is after the last re-assembly. Some of us mount a small desiccant pack inside the NVD while others use canned air or assemble inside an improvised dry tank. In Arizona we often have conditions that are so dry that purging is not necessary.You do not need the thousand dollar purge kit to get acceptable results. We can run you through this when you're done repairing it. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 12:10:49 PM EDT
[#9]
The OP is in North Carolina. I wouldn't want to use my goggles for a lot of time without taking precautions. Yes they work just fine without the purge, but the longevity could be impacted.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 12:15:58 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Since you have it apart, Hope you have the ability to purge and refill with nitrogen. 1. Are you sure you have installed the tube correctly, and that the front lens is screwed down tight? 2. The posts that contact the tube are supposed to be spring loaded. Check that, if one, or both of them are not moving because of corrosion, that might be the source of the problem. 1. Yes 2.Spring post work as designed. I see some tubes have the contacts on the front tube assembly soldered, mine appear to be flared in place. Im thinking this might be the problem. Ill make a vacuum container to re-assemble the unit when its finally working correctly. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 12:17:24 PM EDT
[#11]
PSYWAR you are correct our air is nasty humid here in NC.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 12:51:23 PM EDT
[#12]
I take my stuff apart so much I don't bother purging. If I am working on someone else's scope I vac and nitrogen purge it. Most of the time we put scopes together under climate controlled conditions. Never purge my gear and never a problem. If my life depended on it I would purge it
Purging or not won't affect life of the scope or tube. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 12:56:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
1. Yes 2.Spring post work as designed. I see some tubes have the contacts on the front tube assembly soldered, mine appear to be flared in place. Im thinking this might be the problem. Ill make a vacuum container to re-assemble the unit when its finally working correctly. There are 3 types of PVS-7 tubes. MX10130C and later tubes were the first tube to be universal. The MX10130A and MX10130B are proprietary. ITT and Litton used different contact setups. One won't work in the others scope. You need to be aware of this. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 1:15:23 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
1. Yes 2.Spring post work as designed. I see some tubes have the contacts on the front tube assembly soldered, mine appear to be flared in place. Im thinking this might be the problem. Ill make a vacuum container to re-assemble the unit when its finally working correctly. Yes there are ones with flex board, and others with traditional wires. I prefer the old soldered wires over the new tech. One thing to check, the posts will twist, and its possible, not the most probable granted, that the post has turned in use and either kinked the wire, or the fb has come loose. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 2:08:24 PM EDT
[#15]
I live in Fla and my reloading building is climate controlled. The humidity in that building is kept at a constant 45 - 50 % and 70 degrees never has problems. As a matter of fact if I ever do disassemble after assembling a unit in that rm. I notice a vacuum sound when taking apart a device that I put together in that building.
I use a dehumidifier, you can buy the at home depot or lowes. Mount humidity gauges on inside of rm your working in. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 2:52:06 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some people take this overboard. If you have it apart and back together 10 times troubleshooting it, then the only time you have to worry about purging it is after the last re-assembly. Some of us mount a small desiccant pack inside the NVD while others use canned air or assemble inside an improvised dry tank. In Arizona we often have conditions that are so dry that purging is not necessary.You do not need the thousand dollar purge kit to get acceptable results. We can run you through this when you're done repairing it. That's good to know since I'm sure I blew mine looking at my tube. Dry AZ air for th win! |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 3:40:00 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's good to know since I'm sure I blew mine looking at my tube. Dry AZ air for the win! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Some people take this overboard. If you have it apart and back together 10 times troubleshooting it, then the only time you have to worry about purging it is after the last re-assembly. Some of us mount a small desiccant pack inside the NVD while others use canned air or assemble inside an improvised dry tank. In Arizona we often have conditions that are so dry that purging is not necessary.You do not need the thousand dollar purge kit to get acceptable results. We can run you through this when you're done repairing it. RE: Losing your nitrogen - These units are not perfectly sealed. Do not sweat losing your perfect internal environment. IIRC the official PM called for a re-purge every six months for fielded units. I use these things in all weather conditions (including monsoon) and I have only ever experienced EXTERNAL fogging. I've seen camera lenses with mold growing in them - that is bad news, but is preventable with only moderate PM. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 4:57:30 PM EDT
[#18]
Heres some photos of what Im dealing with. I don't think this is normal but the longer the meter is on the leads the more the voltage drops. I had it connected for about a minute and it dropped to 2.5 volts. Turned it off and back on and right back up to 3.2 volts.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 8:47:08 PM EDT
[#19]
I assume you have two fresh batteries. Aside from that I believe we are back to the battery compartment. Voltage should not drop like that if you are getting good connections. I would start at the battery compartment and work my way in until I find the fault.
You can pull the front cover and check for a steady 3 volts coming from the battery compartment. If that checks out keep working down the line until you find the faulty connection. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 9:25:06 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
... well, depending on what day you opened it - not today, right? If I'm feeling lazy then I just open a unit on a bone dry day and just let it vent before closing it. If I'm feeling peppy then I saturate the internal area of the NVD through the purge port - I reseal it, let it settle in and repeat for a total of 3 times. I use an almost empty "canned air" product - almost empty because I tend to squirt the liquid propelant inside the unit if I use a new can (bad). RE: Losing your nitrogen - These units are not perfectly sealed. Do not sweat losing your perfect internal environment. IIRC the official PM called for a re-purge every six months for fielded units. I use these things in all weather conditions (including monsoon) and I have only ever experienced EXTERNAL fogging. I've seen camera lenses with mold growing in them - that is bad news, but is preventable with only moderate PM. Lol. No. definitely not today. |
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Posted: 3/1/2017 3:35:07 AM EDT
[#21]
if you know someone with another pvs7 , you could swap tubes and see if the problem happens again in either unit .
also you have volts from the housing but you could check that it can supply the current needed , does it have anything fancy like a voltage regulator in the housing ? i guess not if the volts are dropping like you say but it looks like the volts are going down for some reason |
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Posted: 4/10/2017 1:51:10 PM EDT
[#22]
The unit is en-route to Ed Wilcox. Thanks for the help. Ill let you folks know how it goes.
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