Ok guys,

I need a little help. What can I do/use to run a DBAL A3 at 12, and a surefire M300V at the 1 o'clock position? I've tried both of my arisaka mounts and neither will get the light in there at 1 without hitting the DBAL. My setup is a 11.5" bcm upper with a 10" kmr alpha and no BUIS. I'd like to continue running my switches at the 12 o'clock if possible. I've already got a TAPS PRO inbound as well. I've been looking at the bcm light mount, HSP thorntsil keymod light mount, and the unity tactical fusion and offset wing mount. Educate me

Thanks.

Is this what you have in mind?





I had the same issue with my setup:
DBAL A3
Surefire M300
Arisaka Light Mount
10.5" Barrel
9" BCM KMR Rail

I solved it by doing the following:
Moving the surefire to the farthest away position on the arsiaka mount, to give as much clearance as possible.
Moving the light forward on the rail, which was a plus as the suppressor creates less of a shadow.
Moving the DBAL back on the rail, I needed to anyways to fit a BUIS in front of it.


The light is in a 1-2 oclock position still and it does not contact with the DBAL.
Another advantage to bringing the DBAL back on the rail is improved balance of the rifle, its not as front heavy.
Its a tight fit when you are working with a SBR but your barrel/rail is a inch longer so you have a little more room to play with.
Not sure how big the taps switch is compared to the surefire switch though.

Cannot even imagine how uncomfortable that is to shoot given how close the switches are to the upper receiver. Wouldn't you be better served by moving your switches to the 10 or 11 O'clock position and getting them out further on the rail.

mine is similar so I cam going to mount a TAPS switch on the left side at 1 O'clock to use on the SF light and my DBAL.  I tried using the DBAL button and a SF pad but the DBAL was too big and doofy feeling, plus in the dark I kept jamming my thumb into the corner of it reaching for the top button.  with a TAPS on the left at 1 I won't have to move my thumb more than 1/2" if at all.

Those are all great suggestions guys! The problem I have with moving my DBAL back any farther than all the way forwad is then I can't fit my clip on thermal on the top rail. I know the answer is suck it up butter cup and live with the light at 3, I was just trying to put some feelers out there and see if there was something I hadn't seen or thought of.

Will you even have enough room @12 on the rail to run the Clip On, the TAPS, along with the DBAL on a 10" rail and still have room for your thumb to move in and out comfortably.
The TAPS is 4.375", the DBAL is 3.5 so you are just under 8" at that point.

Someone posted a pic of a PEQ15C @ 12 with a Scout light at 1 or 1:30 with both being at the front of the rail, but for the life of I cannot find it. It was in one of the picture threads here on ARF. If I find it I will post the mount that allowed him to do it. As I recall it was not any of the mounts that you had mentioned in your opening post.

While not apple to apples you might keep an eye on this thread as something might help you or come about in it.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_20/708961_Atpial-and-surefire-M300-picture-request.html

That's a good point, I was thinking about that earlier do you happen to know if the TAPS will fit on the 11 o'clock rail on the kmr?

Does anyone happen to know if the BCM keymod scout light mount will fit my 300V up in that 1300 position while still clearing a DBAL A3. Both mounted at the end of the rail. I've found lots of pics with the BCM mount and an I2 and M600 but not one single pic or bit of info on an A3 and 300V

It doesn't bother me one bit, I set it up that way because it was the most comfortable.
The rifle only weighs 7lbs with a full mag and is balanced at the mag well, so you don't really need to grab far forward on the rail. If you do, say for a accurate long range shot you can extend the stock and grip the rail under the DBAL. But if youre clearing rooms and need a light or laser, you shorten the stock and bring the hand back towards the magwell.

FWIW, the reason I keep the switch at 12 is because I want to be able to active it whether im shooting right or left handed. If I need to shoot around a corner on my weak side I still want to use my light.